Though at first sight, Motul and Yamlube lube look alike, in reality they are'nt.

They have different ratings and hence the Yamalube is abit lighter than the Motul.

thank u guys.....u r a life saver.....rather savers

Thank you all for clearing my doubt, yes even I agree that its difficult to explain technical difference between 2 oils here.

My only concern was about engine smoothness and gear shifts. I think I will be shifting to the Motul Mineral now.

And BTW I dont own FZ / Fazer, I own its lower sibling SZ-R.

Thank you guys!

Cheers!

Hello everyone,

Yesterday got the Simota stock replacement air filter and Joel FFE on my FZ16. I Love the low end torque now but I dont find much difference in the higher rpms.I am sure FFE and air filter do their job properly.
Can someone give me pointers as to where the issue could be? Carb? Clutch slip?... I use YamaLube SS.

Thanks a lot,

No help?

Are you using the FFE with the DB Killer on? If that's the case then you will not feel much of difference except when the engine revs post 6000 rpm. To get the best out of the engine, you will have to remove the DB Killer.

2ndly if you have put a performance air filter then your engine might be leaning out.. Please check with Joel if you need to rejet the carb. Also why don't you pay him a visit at his workshop KR puram if I remember it correctly
.. You can probably request him to help you out with the tuning.

Cheers,

Check the bunch of wires under seat. You can disconnect them there. Taking the wire out from there is a messy job, too tight for them to come out. I had to remove the tail end for proper routing.

Yeah! I'm replacing seals too! SVC guys told me they would be using Motul brand only Thank you.

Hi Shv18, Thank you for your reply.

Firstly , i have got the FFE and ait filter fitted in Joels workshop itself. Joel suggests that upjetting is not at all required. I got the carb tuned there but looks like something went wrong. Only While riding back home i realised it turned to rich setting and the bike wouldn't cross 6k rpm because when i open the throttle there is a lot of jerks. I made it lean and now its running fine. I am suspecting clutch plates to be the culprit for the loss in power, i have to get them changed soon.

Also one more question , even with the DB killer the sound is very loud - is there anything that we can do to reduce a bit. I love the sound though, but the cops don't.

Now that I believe that Low end torque is much better, can i go for 15 T sprocket in the front? Any more suggestions on FFE maintenance is appreciated.

Thanks,

Well if you do more of city riding then like Mik had posted a few pages back, the low end torque will suffer but the top end will be much higher.. Your bike's gearing ratios will change so what Mik had suggested was to alter your riding style and the way you engage gears at different speeds.

I would say go for 15T if you do more of highway riding where it really helps. Otherwise inside the city 14T will suffice. If it is refusing to go beyond 6k rpm then that's a tuning issue.. I don't know about your ride's clutch plates as you have not mentioned any history of your ride in terms of service, parts replaced etc. Why don't you connect with Rylan and check his ride out.. It will give you an idea of a fully souped up Joel, RCs stuff since, you live in Blore anyways?

FFE not much can be done except when you see an interceptor or a cop dip the clutch and let her go in idling.. Usually the sound gets muffled amongst the excessive traffic noise of autos and buses.. I have been riding my ride for over 9000 kms without DB killer and have never been stopped for the sound heck the R170 is even louder!!

I would recommend the next upgrade to 180cc big bore kit. Its worth it..

Cheers,

is there any difference in the way power is delivered between 2010 and 2011 manufactured bikes?

Stock bikes, 2010 ones feel more powerful than the later.

2010 had 14 nm torque and 2011 has 13.06 nm.. I am not sure how much difference does that make to the power.. However, newer ones have been further detuned to give more FE.

Cheers,

Speedometer not working

@ Shiv bhai,

This evening when I was riding suddenly speedometer turned 0 and after sometime it was working normal. After visiting a place and coming back again the speedometer was showing 0. And this 0 stayed for a long time and again in between it worked for say 0.5km and after that it turned 0 and never came alive. I found that speedometer, ODO Reading, Trip reading are not working. RPM meter is working fineand so does the fuel guage.

Dear do we have any DIY thing to sort this issue? And if take to the SVC guys, will they clear this issue immediately? I am going for a tour on saturday and wednesday. Feeling very sad. All my calculations and my homework upon my new bike has gone waste.

Please reply when you see this message

Thank You

No DIY... Take it to svc immediately along with the warranty. And service book. If I am right, your bike has been an unfortunate victim of faulty console which is replacable under 2 years warranty. If for any reason svc guys try to act smart shoot an email immediately to yamaha customer service along with the details of your ride like engine and chassis no. Along with the last service date and the name of the SVC head.


Cheers,

Just check the speedo cable. A damaged or loose connection at the wheel hub or meter connection has this effect. Ask for free replacement if required.