Re: Honda CBR 250R

Saar,

Thanks for being brief but to the point. If it is not too much to ask would it be possible to share your experiences with the vehicle issues you have faced and how were they addressed? i.e.:

1) 2011 initial models had shim issues which were narrowed down to the shim quality Honda had used. Post hardening of the shims from OEM manufacturer the issues have dropped drastically for valve adjustment. What has been your experience on this one so far?

2) bike's behaviour with fuel used outside the premises of a metro city. I meant looking at the possibility of accidentally filling up fuel from a bunk which deals with adulterated fuel, have you faced any such issues with your CBR if so how was this addressed? Or was it so that your vehicle still performed flawlessly without getting you into any trouble in the middle of nowhere?

3) earlier batches of CBRs of 2011, some of them have witnessed engine seizures in under 40,000 kms. Some have had developed camshaft issues: getting worn out early due to metallurgy issues at the time of production, in some CBRs the can chain tensioner and the cam timing chain would give up quickly (specifically only some of 2011 CBRs had this issue). What has been your experience with your steed so far in terms of the above mentioned issues: if any of such were faced during your extended use so far?

4) Fairing vibes and issues?? Rust formation on chassis or on locknuts? Life of the battery so far, any brand preference for replacement if so why? Clutch cable life, throttle cable life, throttle body cleaning interval (if any was followed), your experience with engine oils etc.

5) did you spend a "big one" for a proper overhaul of your vehicle at this stage, after clocking so many kms??

I am sure with your extended experience and sharing of this data will help all the members here to understand their vehicles a bit more better than they already do.

Cheers,

Re: Honda CBR 250R

Well, I'll see how much I can answer to the point

The last I changed my Shim was somewhere around 42000 on all 4 of them (2 inlets & 2 outlets), right now I'm having a milder noise (ASC confirms its at exhaust side) post 6200/6300/6400 RPM. I was quite apprehensive when once psr Sir told me SHIM model engines are outdated, but, now I'm beginning to gain some confidence gradually. But then, I'm not a person who redlines at every gear; like mentioned in the manual, 99% of the time, I accelerate & decelerate gradually. Once in a while, I redline at every gear due to some frustration or some spirited ride

Once at BPCL Shoolagiri, TN (opposite to McD) & once at Auratya, UP I had adulterated fuel. At TN, it took sometime for us (@saikarthik) to realize it was adulterated fuel, but then nothing happened & I have changed my fuel filter & dried the tank during service twice so far. In UP, I drained 75% of the fuel & refueled at good fuel station because, I didn't want to take chances with a broken bike in the mid of doing GQ.

By God's grace, I had to change the tensioner only once once at 69K since it had bursted out completely. Engine seizure...needless to say, my CPR has become very famous due to it lol

Fairings do vibrate for every 30K-35K of riding, so keep changing all the rubber bushes for that many Km; but it only makes the bike better & arrests the vibrations, but, it never eliminates them. This is one place where the naked street motorcycles such as FZ, Striple, ER6N etc score better, but then, they loose out on wind blasts on high speeds. May be semi faired does better job? Not sure. Cables & sprockets always were changed much ahead of time not because they last only so much, but, I had to do touring & don't want to take chances looking for ASC in the middle of the trip. This is my second Exide battery I'm using since 62317. Rust are as usual, the entire exhaust is rusted; chasis is good for now, lock nuts are dirty; engine oil always has been with Shell 10W40 as per psr sir's suggestion & infact I got so used to it that I order it in bulk which works out at much cheaper rate.

???

Re: Honda CBR 250R

On the subject of valves ,Shims and adjustments, most modern engines are operated with Shims Over bucket type, which is prone to pop out of bucket at high RPMs...hence Shim Under Bucket method is now employed to ensure non shim slip and bounce.....Here I would like to borrow from an article to explain the concepts with Pictures to enable easy understanding....

Shim-over-bucket “adjusters”

In this design, an inverted “bucket” sits over the valve stem, and a shim sits atop the bucket to create the necessary lash. One can’t really “adjust” the valve lash on this setup. To change the clearance, the shim is replaced with one of a different thickness.

The shim-over-bucket setup became the preferred method because engineers wanted to eliminate rocker arms. Rather than actuating valves with a rocker arm, the cam itself opens the valve. This lightens the valve train (freeing up horsepower), allows for more precise valve timing, and also leads to longer valve inspection and adjustment intervals, because there are fewer parts to wear.
There's a potential problem with shim-over-bucket adjusters in high-performance engines, however. There are times when an engine can spin so fast that the valve spring cannot snap the valve closed before the cam attempts to open it again. Effectively, for a split second, no load is placed upon the valve by the spring. (The phenomenon is known as valve float.) That lack of spring pressure, coupled with the rotational “wiping” action of the cam lobe, can actually “shoot” a shim out of its captive spot on top of the bucket, eliminating clearance entirely!

Shim-under-bucket “adjusters”

A shim-under-bucket setup uses the bucket to shroud the shim. By virtue of the bucket’s protective “walls,” the shim cannot be “spat out” by the camshaft. Additionally, shims can also be made smaller in diameter, which reduces valve train weight — a huge consideration when every last pony is being extracted from an engine. So when it comes to valves on modern motorcycles, that's why things are the way they are.


Replacing Shim on Over Bucket type is much easier than on Under Bucket type.....Why do so many bikes use shim-under-bucket valve adjusters? - Common Tread - RevZilla

Re: Honda CBR 250R

Happy day....I got my black baby blade today

Re: Honda CBR 250R

Congratulations !

Sent from my XT1022 using xBhp Connect mobile app

Re: Honda CBR 250R

I was expecting to ask these questions to Mr.Aargee, and thanks shiv for asking the same for us :thumbup:

And Aargee sir, Regarding the write up in motohive, I was expecting a exhaustive writeup of your journeys but disappointed to see it in brief, nonetheless I am very much in jealous(am sure most of the CBR250R owners here will be ) of you sir.

Ram

Sent from my C1904

Re: Honda CBR 250R


on the contrary these levers are only available for ABS model for 1400-1800 a pair and for them to work in NON-ABS you need to do bit of filing..

Re: Honda CBR 250R

Ram sir, that article was focused on the merits & demerits of CPR & hence was focused more towards the machine rather than the journey. I've almost all the TLogs logged here in xBhp; if you can find all the threads started by me, you can find my TLogs

Re: Honda CBR 250R

I went to local shop who have these kind of levers but when I told it's for ABS model they said it can't be used for ABS models and it happened in 2 shops so I was wondering anybody did same mod job anyway thanks

Re: Honda CBR 250R

Hello everyone, couldnt update due to work for the past few days. About the gaps I mentioned, the SVC Preetam Honda says that the bracket is bent a little bit. Probably happened when the bike took a fall in the parking lot. The fall happened when it was stationery, the clutch lever was bent a bit but no other scratches or damage on the bike. SVC says the gaps wont cause any trouble and nothing can be done to resolve it. Is he right? Or is it worth going to another svc and getting it checked out?

Re: Honda CBR 250R


Congrats. It'd be great if you can share the VIN/Chassis number of your motorcycle. I see your motorcycle has Contigos! considering yours is an ABS.

Gaps that are too offset can be mended (in case the motorcycle was dropped, case in point) but some gaps are from factory and it's the way the motorcycles are assembled, one can't do much. But if you would love to give it a try at another SVC, why not just ask for their opinion and see what they have to offer.
[MENTION=32286]psr[/MENTION] sir, excellent insight as always.

Cheers!
VJ

Re: Honda CBR 250R

Will consider that. Thanks for the input!

Re: Honda CBR 250R

Thank you . chassis number is ME4MC423BF8010272

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Hi great owners, am new with baby blade. someone please clarify my doubt about radiator fan operation.

I just had 3 small rides after delivery yesterday, I see fan works when I try to turn the engine off after my ride. Do I keep the engine ON till the fan turns off automatically? or I can just turn off the ignition when engine and fan is running.( I know keeping the fan ON with engine OFF will drain battery). correct me if am wrong.

Re: Honda CBR 250R

Hi Engine Fan kicks in when the engine is getting hotter than this happens mostly in summer or in long drives nothing to worry about its pretty normal.
Well coming to your question when you turn off your engine and fan is running its basically running on battery like you said so better turn off the ignition (i.e. engine kill switch) no need to wait for the fan to stop.

Re: Honda CBR 250R

Thanks for the insight into running costs and parts replacement duration.
Would request you to add relevant info from above post to the FAQ you created for CBR.