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Re: New bike - New rider - Suggestion needed
@Manan.1. Petrol is a highly corrosive fluid for the rubber O ring of the chain link. If it is used to clean the chain, the O ring seals will degrade over a period of time and chain failure is a sure-shot result. Diesel and kerosene on the other hand are much lesser corrosive for rubber. Yet, they have their impact to some degree. That is why, the world over, heavy fighting vehicles (armoured/standard) which use diesel run on a special diesel version called DHPP - A (Diesel High Pour Point). Among other things, it is quite benign on rubber hoses, gaskets etc. Also less prone to detonation under pressure. If you get this, it is good for the chain.
Kerosene is still less corrosive but in India, it is a tightly controlled fuel meant for the lesser privileged eco class. The aviation versions - ATF(Avn Turbine Fuel)/JET - A1/JP(Jet Propellant, US term) are therefore used for their stability, power and non-corrosive properties. But NOT to be used for non-aviation and non-propellant applications. It is much more volatile than SKO (Standard Kerosene Oil).
One gentle nudge. It would be much more educative for you to Google such queries than post them here. I am not rebuking you or any of that stuff, just saying that when one searches for answers to such questions on the Internet, one is more likely to get accurate, pointed yet holistic answers. Ok? No offence meant.
2. FE is governed by a number of factors. The condition of the road, the load on the bike, ambient temp, quality of fuel and engine use patterns. As a rule of thumb, high RPM will consume more fuel simply because the engine is running more per unit time. This is markedly apparent when combined with low gear. Yet, at the same RPM, a high gear will yield better FE because a substantial part of the motive force required to move the bike is now being provided by the momentum i.e. the inertia of the bike. A bit of physics at play here; in fact, lots of it!
You will gain in FE if you could practise the following riding methods:
1. Move off smartly in 1st and get into 3rd and 4th as soon as possible. Don't dawdle in the lower gears for too long.
2. Try to stay in higher gears as far as possible, depending on road/load conditions.
3. Don't rev the engine without any reason. There is no need to rev it at gear changes either up or down; the CBR has a fully synchromesh GB so truck-style throttle use is not needed.
4. Change gears within the specified RPM band. Low RPM for high gear will hit FE as much as high RPM at low gear.
5. Never, ever, redline the engine. The redline is a warning line/band which indicates the potential for catastrophic engine damage if breached. Modern engines produce the best FE vs performance curve at about 80% of the stated RPm for max torque and power. The CBR yields its max torque at 7000 RPM. So, you should not cross 80% X 7000 = 5600 RPM for long durations. Overtaking can be done at 6000 or 6500 but then get down to 5600 as early as possible. My bike does a steady 90 kph @ 5600. This is a good speed for highway travel for such a small bike. I make good time plus the engine and self are not stressed.
6. Gradual, steady throttle inputs pay very rich dividends. That screaming start from standstill may look good on rubber-melting bike shows on TV but is hell for the FE, the engine, the tyres. Handle the throttle like you are making love to a woman expertly (if you have not done this either as a novice or as an expert,
then use the template of handling a small baby in your hands) - smooth, soft, sure.
7. Unless road/load conditions prevent so, do NOT use engine braking. Say you are approaching a toll gate at about 90. You can judge when to decelerate, slow down, brake etc. Judge your speed in such a way that you can pull in the clutch, let the engine go to idle for some time, let the bike coast down under its own inertia then shift down to tackle the speed breakers before the gate. Engine braking definitely uses up more fuel than an idle coasting.
8. Good fuel, clean plugs, filters, lubed chain, even a clean bike to aid in aerodynamic efficiency - all add their penny bits to the FE.
To quote a 3rd standard Hindi poem "Boond boond pani se saagar bhar jaata hai" and so on.
Ride safe.
Originally posted by Manan
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Kerosene is still less corrosive but in India, it is a tightly controlled fuel meant for the lesser privileged eco class. The aviation versions - ATF(Avn Turbine Fuel)/JET - A1/JP(Jet Propellant, US term) are therefore used for their stability, power and non-corrosive properties. But NOT to be used for non-aviation and non-propellant applications. It is much more volatile than SKO (Standard Kerosene Oil).
One gentle nudge. It would be much more educative for you to Google such queries than post them here. I am not rebuking you or any of that stuff, just saying that when one searches for answers to such questions on the Internet, one is more likely to get accurate, pointed yet holistic answers. Ok? No offence meant.
2. FE is governed by a number of factors. The condition of the road, the load on the bike, ambient temp, quality of fuel and engine use patterns. As a rule of thumb, high RPM will consume more fuel simply because the engine is running more per unit time. This is markedly apparent when combined with low gear. Yet, at the same RPM, a high gear will yield better FE because a substantial part of the motive force required to move the bike is now being provided by the momentum i.e. the inertia of the bike. A bit of physics at play here; in fact, lots of it!
You will gain in FE if you could practise the following riding methods:
1. Move off smartly in 1st and get into 3rd and 4th as soon as possible. Don't dawdle in the lower gears for too long.
2. Try to stay in higher gears as far as possible, depending on road/load conditions.
3. Don't rev the engine without any reason. There is no need to rev it at gear changes either up or down; the CBR has a fully synchromesh GB so truck-style throttle use is not needed.
4. Change gears within the specified RPM band. Low RPM for high gear will hit FE as much as high RPM at low gear.
5. Never, ever, redline the engine. The redline is a warning line/band which indicates the potential for catastrophic engine damage if breached. Modern engines produce the best FE vs performance curve at about 80% of the stated RPm for max torque and power. The CBR yields its max torque at 7000 RPM. So, you should not cross 80% X 7000 = 5600 RPM for long durations. Overtaking can be done at 6000 or 6500 but then get down to 5600 as early as possible. My bike does a steady 90 kph @ 5600. This is a good speed for highway travel for such a small bike. I make good time plus the engine and self are not stressed.
6. Gradual, steady throttle inputs pay very rich dividends. That screaming start from standstill may look good on rubber-melting bike shows on TV but is hell for the FE, the engine, the tyres. Handle the throttle like you are making love to a woman expertly (if you have not done this either as a novice or as an expert,
then use the template of handling a small baby in your hands) - smooth, soft, sure.7. Unless road/load conditions prevent so, do NOT use engine braking. Say you are approaching a toll gate at about 90. You can judge when to decelerate, slow down, brake etc. Judge your speed in such a way that you can pull in the clutch, let the engine go to idle for some time, let the bike coast down under its own inertia then shift down to tackle the speed breakers before the gate. Engine braking definitely uses up more fuel than an idle coasting.
8. Good fuel, clean plugs, filters, lubed chain, even a clean bike to aid in aerodynamic efficiency - all add their penny bits to the FE.
To quote a 3rd standard Hindi poem "Boond boond pani se saagar bhar jaata hai" and so on.
Ride safe.
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