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  • master cylinder replacement....

    Guys... Today finally i took my baby blade to the service station (pratul honda) and got the front brake assembly replaced.
    Believe me its no exagerration, the way it gains confidence now is not at all comparable!
    i always had a complaint with the brakes in non ABS that they tend to lose control pretty quick...
    mentioning that my previous ride was R15, i sometimes felt that i shouldnt hav sold my R15 because of the confidence that ride used to give was something really fantastic!

    cbr was chosen for my regular rides to kamineni hospitals at narketpally from hyderabad for which i felt this bike would be very comfortable to do the job. And indeed it is, not to forget the tremendous torque of this machine which is awesome for overtaking with ease! (a little stressy on r15 because of low torque)
    i came across a couple of situations on highway where i had to do some serious breaking to escape death(almost) and those were the most horrible situations i had in my whole biking career. The way this bike responded at heavy breaking was something i could never ever expect from a honda!
    I personally owned pulsar 150 dtsi v1 and then pulsar 180dtsi v2 then came r15 n now finally cbr... Why i am telling this is, i never found the brakes to be DANGEROUS even in pulsars which is always blamed for some or the other reason.(not to mention handling)

    So i finally decided to change my riding style as i am not left with anything now. I dont think installing ABS is easy on a non-ABS model and if possible, would be too heavy on pocket. So just forget it and start riding very very carefully keeping concentration to the maximum and understand the limits of the brakes in this bike
    And be happy about the positives this bike has got, especially the highway capability and also the bike being not too heavy on the pocket considering its a 250cc!

    But let me tell you, its all over now!!!
    after getting the master cylinder and several other minor components replaced by the company voluntarily, the bike is totally gaga!
    Brakes same as r15 now or may be better(didnt spend so much time as today itself i got them replaced)
    Today after a year, i seriously got to ride i can say!
    With no fear of losing control on hard breaking!
    I never thought front break could bring so much of difference in control... Its actually like the front break is a little weak in non-ABS versions and for that reason we tend to press the rear more for effective breaking.
    And for that reason the rear locks up giving a false image that that the rear break locks up too early...

    I always recommended everyone to get ABS version and not the one without as its too too risky at highspeeds...
    after getting this done i seriously feel like paying 30k extra for ABS is not worth for the kind of breaking non ABS has got now! (lol... I know bohot kuch boldiya) anyways its an added safety feature and is definitely an advantage over the NON... Sory abs guys

    but non ABS can also be considered now safely without having the image of faulty brakes in it...
    Thanks a million to honda for bringing me back my lost happiness.

    Brakes does matter alot
    Peace

    Comment


    • Being used to ride the mighty 600RR 07, I thought what better way to commute than a baby CBR. But then again I now think I should have waited a little bit more.

      Please do let me know if you guys have also noticed this.
      1. There is tick sound when you roll off the accelerator on cold engine. It disapppears after engine gets warm.
      2. Replaced the Front Brake MC under warranty. Now the front brake feels hard wood brake. It used to be spongy.
      3. Mine is Red/Silver one. The side Red fairing has small gap while mating with silver one from instrument panel. Should there be gap ??? (Will take the pictures tomorrow and post it)
      4. Is the instrument panel always back-lit or only after parking lights are turned on ? My friend got lucky and got one imported from Thailand. Its panel are always back-lit. Mine is Indian one. I have no idea if it also should get lit or not. My previous Indian bike was Yamaha R15v1.0 and it's instrument light was always ON.
      5. There is THUD sound when hard front braking. Is cone already giving problems ?
      6. Bike stalls when clutching in and downshifting in 3rd. Tried replicating it in ASS but couldn't. It seems that this is universal problem. It has been posted on another forum that the cylinder head screws are by default fastened very tight and hence the problem with valves. Don't see much logic but will definitely give a try by opening and re-fitting the screws.

      Sorry if putting too many problems, but the head mechanic in our ASS, Nepal is a moron and knows only what he has been trained for. Still under warranty period so don't want to show it to my 600RR service guy.
      Last edited by lineinfire; 01-21-2013, 09:47 PM. Reason: Added few more description

      Comment


      • Originally posted by safi View Post
        Guys... Today finally i took my baby blade to the service station (pratul honda) and got the front brake assembly replaced.
        Believe me its no exagerration, the way it gains confidence now is not at all comparable!
        i always had a complaint with the brakes in non ABS that they tend to lose control pretty quick...
        mentioning that my previous ride was R15, i sometimes felt that i shouldnt hav sold my R15 because of the confidence that ride used to give was something really fantastic!

        cbr was chosen for my regular rides to kamineni hospitals at narketpally from hyderabad for which i felt this bike would be very comfortable to do the job. And indeed it is, not to forget the tremendous torque of this machine which is awesome for overtaking with ease! (a little stressy on r15 because of low torque)
        i came across a couple of situations on highway where i had to do some serious breaking to escape death(almost) and those were the most horrible situations i had in my whole biking career. The way this bike responded at heavy breaking was something i could never ever expect from a honda!
        I personally owned pulsar 150 dtsi v1 and then pulsar 180dtsi v2 then came r15 n now finally cbr... Why i am telling this is, i never found the brakes to be DANGEROUS even in pulsars which is always blamed for some or the other reason.(not to mention handling)

        So i finally decided to change my riding style as i am not left with anything now. I dont think installing ABS is easy on a non-ABS model and if possible, would be too heavy on pocket. So just forget it and start riding very very carefully keeping concentration to the maximum and understand the limits of the brakes in this bike
        And be happy about the positives this bike has got, especially the highway capability and also the bike being not too heavy on the pocket considering its a 250cc!

        But let me tell you, its all over now!!!
        after getting the master cylinder and several other minor components replaced by the company voluntarily, the bike is totally gaga!
        Brakes same as r15 now or may be better(didnt spend so much time as today itself i got them replaced)
        Today after a year, i seriously got to ride i can say!
        With no fear of losing control on hard breaking!
        I never thought front break could bring so much of difference in control... Its actually like the front break is a little weak in non-ABS versions and for that reason we tend to press the rear more for effective breaking.
        And for that reason the rear locks up giving a false image that that the rear break locks up too early...

        I always recommended everyone to get ABS version and not the one without as its too too risky at highspeeds...
        after getting this done i seriously feel like paying 30k extra for ABS is not worth for the kind of breaking non ABS has got now! (lol... I know bohot kuch boldiya) anyways its an added safety feature and is definitely an advantage over the NON... Sory abs guys

        but non ABS can also be considered now safely without having the image of faulty brakes in it...
        Thanks a million to honda for bringing me back my lost happiness.

        Brakes does matter alot
        Peace
        good to hear that. however it wont last long .. another few days and the brakes will be spongy again. the only way to imporve the brakes is a steel braided line and
        better disc pads and you will see a permanent improvement of brakes..

        Originally posted by lineinfire View Post
        Being used to ride the mighty 600RR 07, I thought what better way to commute than a baby CBR. But then again I now think I should have waited a little bit more.

        Please do let me know if you guys have also noticed this.
        1. There is tick sound when you roll off the accelerator on cold engine. It disapppears after engine gets warm.
        2. Replaced the Front Brake MC under warranty. Now the front brake feels hard wood brake. It used to be spongy.
        3. Mine is Red/Silver one. The side Red fairing has small gap while mating with silver one from instrument panel. Should there be gap ??? (Will take the pictures tomorrow and post it)
        4. Is the instrument panel always back-lit or only after parking lights are turned on ? My friend got lucky and got one imported from Thailand. Its panel are always back-lit. Mine is Indian one. I have no idea if it also should get lit or not. My previous Indian bike was Yamaha R15v1.0 and it's instrument light was always ON.
        5. There is THUD sound when hard front braking. Is cone already giving problems ?
        6. Bike stalls when clutching in and downshifting in 3rd. Tried replicating it in ASS but couldn't. It seems that this is universal problem. It has been posted on another forum that the cylinder head screws are by default fastened very tight and hence the problem with valves. Don't see much logic but will definitely give a try by opening and re-fitting the screws.

        Sorry if putting too many problems, but the head mechanic in our ASS, Nepal is a moron and knows only what he has been trained for. Still under warranty period so don't want to show it to my 600RR service guy.

        1 : the tick sound can be of the gear getting engaged correctly . check the clutch setting.
        else the contant ticket can be due to valve clearance. get it checked.
        for inlet the clearance should be 16mm +- 3 mm.
        fr exhaust it should be 27 +- 3 mm. get it checked if its very annoying.

        2: already answered above

        3 : gap can be due to incorrect fitting. not a major issue. get it refitted.

        4 : instrument panel in not always backlit like that of zma. works along with pilot lamps.

        5 : get the cone set tightened and check the free play of the handle. also get if the nuts and screws for the fork rods are tightened
        and aligned well. the slight thud also comes from the disk setup due to lil freeplay in the kit.that is normal
        but if you feel the jerk its definitely the cone set.

        6 : cbr runs lean and its well know at low rpm's it dosent misfire but sputters. i checked the spark plug after 10 km
        and its not even brown. running super lean at stock.. guess unless it reaches the power band it runs closed loop
        lean.. so its normal but if it turns of pretty frequently then try using clutch while slowing down below 3k rpm
        and shift 2 second gear.


        as you mentioned its not the screws thats tightened too hard but if the shims clearance is too close and is less than 15 mm
        then heating and cutoff at low rpms happen. get the nuts tightened by torque wrench at setting of 12 Nm this should sort it.
        "A good long ride can clear your mind, restore your faith, and use up a lot of fuel."

        RE Bullet 1977 - Current
        RX-100 1995 - Current
        CBZ Classic 2003 - Current
        Activa 2004 - Current
        CBR 250R 2012 - Current
        Ninja 650 2013 - Current.

        Comment


        • Replies on Bold.
          Originally posted by theironhorse99
          1 : the tick sound can be of the gear getting engaged correctly . check the clutch setting. else the contant ticket can be due to valve clearance. get it checked. for inlet the clearance should be 16mm +- 3 mm. fr exhaust it should be 27 +- 3 mm. get it checked if its very annoying.
          The tick sound is when the bike is in idle mode. Neither gear nor clutch is engaged. It happens only in the first startup of the day.

          2: already answered above
          Thanks.

          3 : gap can be due to incorrect fitting. not a major issue. get it refitted.
          Not quite sure about this one. I checked out brand new here in the showroom and it also got the same. Now confused. Attaching picture for reference. Pardon the state of the bike. Due to these problems, I am restricting myself to the 600 instead of 250.
          [ATTACH=CONFIG]91587[/ATTACH]

          4 : instrument panel in not always backlit like that of zma. works along with pilot lamp.
          Thanks again. I don't know how much Honda would have bear the overhead cost just to make it running.

          5 : get the cone set tightened and check the free play of the handle. also get if the nuts and screws for the fork rods are tightened
          and aligned well. the slight thud also comes from the disk setup due to lil freeplay in the kit.that is normal but if you feel the jerk its definitely the cone set.
          I think it's cone set. Every time I tightened the set, the sound disappears and reappears after sometime.

          6 : cbr runs lean and its well know at low rpm's it dosent misfire but sputters. i checked the spark plug after 10 km
          and its not even brown. running super lean at stock.. guess unless it reaches the power band it runs closed loop
          lean.. so its normal but if it turns of pretty frequently then try using clutch while slowing down below 3k rpm
          and shift 2 second gear.
          Does this mean there is no way to remove the spluttering and mis-firing ? I hate it.

          as you mentioned its not the screws thats tightened too hard but if the shims clearance is too close and is less than 15 mm
          then heating and cutoff at low rpms happen. get the nuts tightened by torque wrench at setting of 12 Nm this should sort it.
          Not a very DIY person. Will let the ASS people know once I am there.
          Attached Files
          Last edited by lineinfire; 01-22-2013, 10:13 AM.

          Comment


          • Originally posted by bbsrailfan View Post
            @Prince
            The panniers were marketed as waterproof and come with a rubber gasket inside - though I haven't actually tested their efficiency.
            Another shocker for me was when I checked the studds website - they have Matt Red, Matt Silver and Matt Black colors available to buy online - I had always wanted the red ones
            Regarding saddlebags - I never actually used them, as I mostly wear my backpack (if it's light) or tie it using bungee cords to the rear seat (if it's heavy).
            But these panniers are pretty slim and don't protrude too much on the sides - I guess saddlebags meant for wide bikes can go over them easily.
            where did you get this in jc road, please tell the shop name
            and trust me, black is looking very good.

            The Dream come true


            Comment


            • Originally posted by Praj zm View Post
              where did you get this in jc road, please tell the shop name
              and trust me, black is looking very good.
              @Praj: I don't recall the name of the shop, but it's opposite the SBI ATM on JC Road... u can refer this link on google maps: 12.957956,77.582172 - Google Maps

              @others: Y'day I had a panic braking situation - though I was at only 60kph, but I had to hit the brakes hard enough and the ABS kicked in as well. Thereafter, the brake pads are constantly rubbing against the disc rotor and causing a slight friction. How can I eliminate that friction (and noise)? Or do I just wait for the pads to wear out?

              @theironhorse99: How does a steel braided brake line improve braking efficiency compared to the regular hose?
              Last edited by bbsrailfan; 01-22-2013, 12:20 PM.

              Biking is not about how many Km/h you put on your Speedo. It's about how many miles you put on your Odo. Ride Safe, Ride Long!

              Comment


              • [QUOTE=bbsrailfan;911502]@Praj: I don't recall the name of the shop, but it's opposite the SBI ATM on JC Road... u can refer this link on google maps: 12.957956,77.582172 - Google Maps

                thanks a lot dude

                The Dream come true


                Comment


                • Some pics of my baby from our Sikkim-Bhutan ride :0
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                  Comment


                  • yashwanth -- would love to read your travelogue
                    sigpic

                    Comment


                    • i guess the travelogue is already up on BCMtouring as sikkim ride.. i am already lost seeing the teaser pics... good work guys
                      "A good long ride can clear your mind, restore your faith, and use up a lot of fuel."

                      RE Bullet 1977 - Current
                      RX-100 1995 - Current
                      CBZ Classic 2003 - Current
                      Activa 2004 - Current
                      CBR 250R 2012 - Current
                      Ninja 650 2013 - Current.

                      Comment


                      • Honda CBR 250R

                        My bikes handle vibrates a lot when I reach speeds above 70. if I let go of the handle the vibration can to clearly seen, handle shakes an inch to both sides. is this normal?
                        yes I have checked air pressures and tightened forks and swing arm and also cleaned and lubed my chain. in case if this is a problem any suggestion from experts? thanks in advance

                        Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
                        CBR 650F <02/2017>
                        Honda Aviator<2017>
                        CBR250r :) <11/2011 to 2017> Sold
                        Hero Honda Karizma <2009 to 2011 september> Sold
                        Bajaj Pulsar 180 UG3 <2007 to 09> Sold
                        Honda Unicorn <2005 to 2007> scrap yard

                        Comment


                        • Originally posted by samarth14feb View Post
                          My bikes handle vibrates a lot when I reach speeds above 70. if I let go of the handle the vibration can to clearly seen, handle shakes an inch to both sides. is this normal?
                          yes I have checked air pressures and tightened forks and swing arm and also cleaned and lubed my chain. in case if this is a problem any suggestion from experts? thanks in advance

                          Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

                          seems to be a rim bent if the vibrations are that much.. after leaving both hands.. does the bike go in straight line or waves towards one side ?
                          also if ever hit anything can be an issue with the forks... bent in front rim.. rear has nothing to do with handle vibration...
                          "A good long ride can clear your mind, restore your faith, and use up a lot of fuel."

                          RE Bullet 1977 - Current
                          RX-100 1995 - Current
                          CBZ Classic 2003 - Current
                          Activa 2004 - Current
                          CBR 250R 2012 - Current
                          Ninja 650 2013 - Current.

                          Comment


                          • Honda CBR 250R

                            Originally posted by theironhorse99 View Post
                            seems to be a rim bent if the vibrations are that much.. after leaving both hands.. does the bike go in straight line or waves towards one side ?
                            also if ever hit anything can be an issue with the forks... bent in front rim.. rear has nothing to do with handle vibration...
                            Thanks for your reply, bike goes in straight line when I leave my handle, it's just that handle shakes left and right violently :/ have not run into any major pot holes either. Rim bend maybe an issue but nothing as such visible


                            Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
                            CBR 650F <02/2017>
                            Honda Aviator<2017>
                            CBR250r :) <11/2011 to 2017> Sold
                            Hero Honda Karizma <2009 to 2011 september> Sold
                            Bajaj Pulsar 180 UG3 <2007 to 09> Sold
                            Honda Unicorn <2005 to 2007> scrap yard

                            Comment


                            • Originally posted by samarth14feb View Post
                              Thanks for your reply, bike goes in straight line when I leave my handle, it's just that handle shakes left and right violently :/ have not run into any major pot holes either. Rim bend maybe an issue but nothing as such visible


                              Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
                              Get the center bolt adjusted on the handlebars.. I had this problem and i got it tightened at the ASC yesterday.
                              Got a $5 head? Get a $5 helmet.

                              Comment


                              • Honda CBR 250R

                                Originally posted by Nithesh View Post
                                Get the center bolt adjusted on the handlebars.. I had this problem and i got it tightened at the ASC yesterday.
                                Centre bolt is that centre of handle ? One that is used to tighten cone set ??
                                CBR 650F <02/2017>
                                Honda Aviator<2017>
                                CBR250r :) <11/2011 to 2017> Sold
                                Hero Honda Karizma <2009 to 2011 september> Sold
                                Bajaj Pulsar 180 UG3 <2007 to 09> Sold
                                Honda Unicorn <2005 to 2007> scrap yard

                                Comment

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