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**theironhorse99** · 01-23-2013, 06:26 PM

Originally posted by Nithesh View Post

Get the center bolt adjusted on the handlebars.. I had this problem and i got it tightened at the ASC yesterday.

Originally posted by samarth14feb View Post

Centre bolt is that centre of handle ? One that is used to tighten cone set ??

Originally posted by samarth14feb View Post

Thanks for your reply, bike goes in straight line when I leave my handle, it's just that handle shakes left and right violently :/ have not run into any major pot holes either. Rim bend maybe an issue but nothing as such visible

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yep.. a loose bolt can be the culprit. neways how many km your odo sits on as of now ?

**theironhorse99** · 01-23-2013, 06:31 PM

Originally posted by bbsrailfan View Post

@Praj: I don't recall the name of the shop, but it's opposite the SBI ATM on JC Road... u can refer this link on google maps: 12.957956,77.582172 - Google Maps

@others: Y'day I had a panic braking situation - though I was at only 60kph, but I had to hit the brakes hard enough and the ABS kicked in as well. Thereafter, the brake pads are constantly rubbing against the disc rotor and causing a slight friction. How can I eliminate that friction (and noise)? Or do I just wait for the pads to wear out?

@theironhorse99: How does a steel braided brake line improve braking efficiency compared to the regular hose?

the pads will ear out in some time. there is no adjustment possible for the pads..

regarding the improvement in braking with a steel braided line is

when we brake heard or panic brake. the pressure gets divided on the floating pistons as well as the hose. now the hose being of rubber/(other material ) are prone to expanding due to
high pressure and hence the braking efeeciency reduces. with a steel braided line the brake seem to acvt crisp and accurate also over time does not seem to loose out the edge
in hard braking the pressure is moved to the pistons then to the calliper instead of getting divided on the hose.

i wont claim day and night diffrence but moving from dot 3 to dot 4 , steel braided line and proper callibration the diffrence can be seen.

**samarth14feb** · 01-24-2013, 01:21 AM

Honda CBR 250R

Originally posted by theironhorse99 View Post

yep.. a loose bolt can be the culprit. neways how many km your odo sits on as of now ?

My bike has run only 8900kms :/ my mechanic did tighten the centre bolt. Will ask him to tighten the cone set a bit. Lets c If it solve the problem. Thanks for your advice.

**Nutties** · 01-24-2013, 12:32 PM

Anyone here has the dreaded 5k rpm rattle?if yes, how did you solve it? The asc changed my shims, put foam tape around the faring, refit all bodywork, yet I still have it

**theironhorse99** · 01-24-2013, 06:14 PM

Originally posted by Nutties View Post

Anyone here has the dreaded 5k rpm rattle?if yes, how did you solve it? The asc changed my shims, put foam tape around the faring, refit all bodywork, yet I still have it

the 5k rattle is a known issue however major points that needss to be checked are.

the lower engine cowl : tap it with your hand and see if any noise.. get it open. put a rubber washer and get it close again
second the rattle between the headlight and the front fairing. get it opened. put a double sided tape and get it fixed.
third. get the side panels open i found a lot of small stones every 500-700 km so ask him to dust them upside down and check for debris
fourth. the bank angle sensor in 250 r is just above the headlamp and is a dry type.. ball in a tube but no fluid.. (cost cutting) that does rattle and havent figured out anything for that
in 600rr and 1000rr the angle sensor is fluid based and hence dose not rattle.

if you find any solution for it.. please update.
tap all over the fibre panels and whatever makes sound get washers and get them fixed. the plastics tend to loose over time.

**theironhorse99** · 01-24-2013, 06:51 PM

Originally posted by samarth14feb View Post

My bike has run only 8900kms :/ my mechanic did tighten the centre bolt. Will ask him to tighten the cone set a bit. Lets c If it solve the problem. Thanks for your advice.

here is the catch. do not tighten is too much else the handling will go hayward and it can be dangerous. get it opened and check if the bearing are all good.
get it re greased and then tighten with a proper free play from lock to lock.. (left to right)

and its not only the centre bolt. once you loosen out the center bolt. the t-cone needs adjustment below the bolt.
then check the free play then tighten the main bolt

**bbsrailfan** · 01-24-2013, 07:28 PM

Originally posted by theironhorse99 View Post

the pads will ear out in some time. there is no adjustment possible for the pads..

regarding the improvement in braking with a steel braided line is

when we brake heard or panic brake. the pressure gets divided on the floating pistons as well as the hose. now the hose being of rubber/(other material ) are prone to expanding due to
high pressure and hence the braking efeeciency reduces. with a steel braided line the brake seem to acvt crisp and accurate also over time does not seem to loose out the edge
in hard braking the pressure is moved to the pistons then to the calliper instead of getting divided on the hose.

i wont claim day and night diffrence but moving from dot 3 to dot 4 , steel braided line and proper callibration the diffrence can be seen.

Thanks! That was useful. Even though I have the abs version, I did notice sponginess in the brakes on long runs (I have seen, most non-abs owners complain of the sponginess in brakes). Will get the steel braided lines once I am done with my 1st service. Any idea where I can get them in Bangalore? PlanetDSG and PerformanceRacing do not stock them for the 2011/12 CBRs and getting them shipped from abroad is such an expensive affair

BTW....
Just completed one week and 300 kms with my baby yesterday. Flushed out the stock engine oil and filled her with Honda Genuine 10W30 Mineral oil (Made by BPCL-MAK, as mentioned on the containers). The engine doesn't run as smoothly as it used to run with the 10W30 FS stock oil, but hopefully it got some much-needed cleaning from metal shavings. Went for mineral as it will anyways get flushed out by the honda service guys during my 1st service.
Planning to get my have my oil changes synced with the service schedules.

0KM (stock) > 300KM (personal) > 750KM (1st service) > 2250KM (personal) > 5000KM (2nd service) and so on...

**theironhorse99** · 01-24-2013, 07:32 PM

Originally posted by bbsrailfan View Post

Thanks! That was useful. Even though I have the abs version, I did notice sponginess in the brakes on long runs (I have seen, most non-abs owners complain of the sponginess in brakes). Will get the steel braided lines once I am done with my 1st service. Any idea where I can get them in Bangalore? PlanetDSG and PerformanceRacing do not stock them for the 2011/12 CBRs and getting them shipped from abroad is such an expensive affair

BTW....
Just completed one week and 300 kms with my baby yesterday. Flushed out the stock engine oil and filled her with Honda Genuine 10W30 Mineral oil (Made by BPCL-MAK, as mentioned on the containers). The engine doesn't run as smoothly as it used to run with the 10W30 FS stock oil, but hopefully it got some much-needed cleaning from metal shavings. Went for mineral as it will anyways get flushed out by the honda service guys during my 1st service.
Planning to get my have my oil changes synced with the service schedules.

0KM (stock) > 300KM (personal) > 750KM (1st service) > 2250KM (personal) > 5000KM (2nd service) and so on...

no need to change oil that frequently..
the oil filter works pretty well. make sure the filter is changed at first service (oil filter)

the service schedule is at 6k and 12k

at 12k is the air filter replacement however i did it at 6k. every service. jst 300 bucks. do it.. this is India..

for the steel braided lines. the pulsar 220 uses steel braided and i guess the duke as well.
and as you have ABS. get the Galfer HH rated pads and you'd love it. they'd be around 1700 for front
and you wil love the Bite. HH is rating used for race brakes.

steel lines wont be very expensive but yeah they can be around 4-5k for front and back.. but front would be sufficient as the back brake neways is just 20 % capactiy of the complete braking. dotn blow the cash at once. got for step by step upgrade

**Sid85** · 01-24-2013, 08:26 PM

Originally posted by theironhorse99 View Post

steel lines wont be very expensive but yeah they can be around 4-5k for front and back.. but front would be sufficient as the back brake neways is just 20 % capactiy of the complete braking. dotn blow the cash at once. got for step by step upgrade

I have the std version. Want to change to steel braided brakes. Is it neccesary for both brakes or front would be fine enough? Heard somewhere that 220s braleline would work on CBR. Whats the cost of any steel braided lines if any available ???

**samarth14feb** · 01-24-2013, 08:57 PM

Honda CBR 250R

Originally posted by theironhorse99 View Post

here is the catch. do not tighten is too much else the handling will go hayward and it can be dangerous. get it opened and check if the bearing are all good.
get it re greased and then tighten with a proper free play from lock to lock.. (left to right)

and its not only the centre bolt. once you loosen out the center bolt. the t-cone needs adjustment below the bolt.
then check the free play then tighten the main bolt

I did get my centre bolt tightened, didn't seem to work. will try greasing my cup set tomorrow and update the results

thanks for your suggestions 😊

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

**bbsrailfan** · 01-25-2013, 11:14 AM

Originally posted by theironhorse99 View Post

no need to change oil that frequently..
the oil filter works pretty well. make sure the filter is changed at first service (oil filter)

for the steel braided lines. the pulsar 220 uses steel braided and i guess the duke as well.
and as you have ABS. get the Galfer HH rated pads and you'd love it.

Originally posted by Sid85 View Post

Heard somewhere that 220s braleline would work on CBR. Whats the cost of any steel braided lines if any available ???

@theironhorse99:
Thanks again. Are the P220/D200 brake lines a direct fit? Might work out cheaper than importing them.

@Bangaloreans:
Where can I find Galfer pads? Are they available on JC road? Or any Indian retailers selling them online?

**Sid85** · 01-25-2013, 03:30 PM

Originally posted by bbsrailfan View Post

Thanks again. Are the P220/D200 brake lines a direct fit? Might work out cheaper than importing them.

I have the same query. Can someone enlighten us with the answer.

**theironhorse99** · 01-25-2013, 06:57 PM

Originally posted by Sid85 View Post

I have the std version. Want to change to steel braided brakes. Is it neccesary for both brakes or front would be fine enough? Heard somewhere that 220s braleline would work on CBR. Whats the cost of any steel braided lines if any available ???

Originally posted by samarth14feb View Post

I did get my centre bolt tightened, didn't seem to work. will try greasing my cup set tomorrow and update the results

thanks for your suggestions 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Originally posted by bbsrailfan View Post

@theironhorse99:
Thanks again. Are the P220/D200 brake lines a direct fit? Might work out cheaper than importing them.

@Bangaloreans:
Where can I find Galfer pads? Are they available on JC road? Or any Indian retailers selling them online?

i guess so. not tried yet but i dont think will be a day night diffrence in the length.

galfer can only be through amazon and then ship to india via aramex/borderlinx.
and people who used them told they last as good as 15k-17k km

**Nutties** · 01-26-2013, 12:36 PM

Originally posted by theironhorse99 View Post

the 5k rattle is a known issue however major points that needss to be checked are.

the lower engine cowl : tap it with your hand and see if any noise.. get it open. put a rubber washer and get it close again
second the rattle between the headlight and the front fairing. get it opened. put a double sided tape and get it fixed.
third. get the side panels open i found a lot of small stones every 500-700 km so ask him to dust them upside down and check for debris
fourth. the bank angle sensor in 250 r is just above the headlamp and is a dry type.. ball in a tube but no fluid.. (cost cutting) that does rattle and havent figured out anything for that
in 600rr and 1000rr the angle sensor is fluid based and hence dose not rattle.

if you find any solution for it.. please update.
tap all over the fibre panels and whatever makes sound get washers and get them fixed. the plastics tend to loose over time.

Turns out it is coming from the piston block. Shortage of spares, so have no idea when I'll get it replaced. I did a proper break-in, used to idle the engine after a cold start, yet at 5k odd kms, the piston block has to be replaced

**theironhorse99** · 01-27-2013, 08:14 PM

Re: Honda CBR 250R

7 months and 10k km

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