Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

Guys, Which Engine oil would you suggest? Shell Advance Ultra 10w40 or Motul 300v 15w50 and also, Why?

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

Hi All,

I am facing a strange issue with my bike's (Yamaha R15 V2 50th Anniv. LE) engine. My bike is 1year 3.5 months old with an ODO of 20576 kms. I always used to keep the idle RPM at ~1.5k. All servicing done at authorized YSCs as per the routine mentioned in the service manual. The last weekend (17/18/19 Jan) I had a round solo bike trip to Bangalore from Pune. While towards Bangalore I did the whole journey within 13 hours and while coming back I took 12 hours. After I reached Bangalore I found out that there is a clear tappet sound. So on 18th Jan, 2014 I went to Sprint Yamaha and asked them to fix the tappet. When I got it back I found out that the bike's idle RPM came down to 1.1-1.2k. I thought maybe because of the engine is hot the idle RPM is showing that much. I took the bike back and after some time I felt like the bike is not having that much power as it is used to churn out. Though I rode for around 30kms within B'lore that day but still found out that there is clearly some of the engine note and power missing. Next morning when I tried to turn on the bike the bike was not having any idle RPM at all. The engine was getting turned off as soon as it is in the idle RPM range. I have to rev it to keep it on. Now the problem started. Suppose I am crossing any speed breaker or taking a turn, whenever I was using the clutch, as it takes the engine back to the idle RPM, the engine is turning off. It continued for around the first 20-30 mins and then the problem went away. Next day I took it Sprint Yamaha again. They said that they have tightened the valves a little more for the tappet sound to go. This is why the engine is not breathing properly and asked me to come back after around 4 hours. When I came back the engine was behaving properly but the idle RPM was still at ~1.2k. So I asked them and they said that as you're going back to Pune, after the long ride the valve will loosen up and engine sound will be back as normal. So I took the bike out and was riding when out of a sudden the idle RPM screw just fell apart from the carb. I had to arrange a temporary fix by a local mechanic and came back to Pune the next day. I have continuously revved the bike hard and I was almost cruising at ~115 kmph the whole journey. Now the bike is getting started without any problem, but the rev is not stable as before. First for 1-2 secs it is at ~1.2k then moving to ~1.5k. It is staying there for around 10 secs and then again returning back to ~1.2k but still not stable. The REV needle is always going up and down.

Can anyone of you help me as to what exactly is the problem? Is it because of a faulty carb or the valve settings or something else?

I am extremely sorry for this super long explanation but tried to give as much details as required.

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I have used the Shell one. It is a very good one and you can easily go for a 5-6k kms run life of the oil. But the engine sound will be a little on the harsher side. But you will get good performance all around. Motul 300v is the best in the market. But I would suggest you to go for Motul 7100 20W40 as it (20W40/50 oils)is recommended by YIM.

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

just an advice man - this question/topic gets asked every now and then...just a few posts/pages back from a few days ago one can see this same question, and a few posts furthur back one can see a discussion on it between some members as well. since you've been a regular in the thread for some time now, one expects you to have taken notice of those posts..please read back a bit..it's probably the most common theme discussed in this thread, so you won't even have to search a lot in this huge thread...every now and again this topic comes up in the same form of question..kindly refrain from taking up the same old question too frequently, unless you have something new to share or ask on the topic.
:-)

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that's a risky situation, a bus on one side and an auto on another...

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

Yes man that caused the fall

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Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

Cold engine's idle at around 1300-1450rpm and gradually decreases to 1200-1300rpm which should be normal according to the manual. My Special Edition seems to idle at around 1150-1250rpm when heated up! Looking at your issue, fluctuating from 1100-1500rpm... Looks like your engine is struggling to stay alive!!! Are you using a K&N air filter or any other? If not, it might be extremely tightened valves or a clogged air filter... Regarding the "carb" you mentioned.... which is a fuel pump in this case, driving at very low levels of fuels i.e for a while on reserve causes the pump to get heated up due to lack of lubrication... Considering your bike clocked so many kilometers, I suggest you to get a full check up with your ride! And regarding the Engine oils that i asked about... Using a 15w50 Motul 300v wouldn't do any harm right? I prefer long distance rides.. like about 400-500 kms straight! Considering the high engine temperature during long rides, 300v is okay right? I'm using Shell ultra right now but felt to go for Motul 300v if it would be more like an "Upgrade"! Anyways thanks bro! Hope you get your issue solved soon!!

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That's true bro! I definitely agree with you but i haven't found a single user providing info about the Shell Advance Ultra, I've seen lots of posts about the 300v, I've been following this thread for about 3-4 months. I just wanted to compare these two and get some info on it, Nothing else!

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

Hi guys..

I have a question.
Yesterday while I was riding I came across wet road. I was around 60km/h and when I applied brakes as usual front plus rear bike slipped somewhat..
Can you tell me right way to brake in wet surfaces?

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

In rainy condition always maintain 70% Of the speed u would do on the same road when it's dry.
Use progressive braking with 70% front and 30% rear disc usage. Use the rear discs just the stabilze the bike.
Again progressive braking= squeezing the brake lever with increasing force starting with little force, you will be getting better feedback and in case you rear begins t fishtails u can release the brake immediately.
PS best advice to get out of a fishtail is to
Release the brakes and THROTTLE hard. A rotating rear wheel provides more gyroscopic balance than a locked wheel.

PPS- is this your first bike?

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In rain condition always maintain 70% Of Tue speed u would on the same road when it's dry.
Use progressive braking with 70% front and 30% rear discs. Use the rear discs just the stabilze the bike.
Again progressive braking= squeezing the brake lever with increasing starting with little force, you will be getting better feedback and in case you rear begins fishtails u can release the brake immediately.
PS best advice to get out of a fishtail is to
Release the brakes and throttle hard. A rotating rear wheel provides more gyroscopic balance than a locked wheel

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

Reducing speed in wet surfaces ensures more safety(only Big R has the Traction Control System employed) Soft component tyres do make it stickier in all surfaces ,although try to apply only the rear break as much as you can and just slightly apply the front break for better stability and control. Is there anything beside thatothers please share

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

Hi Arnab , your valve tappets are set too tight . You already guessed how that happened . So pester the service center to correct it and they better use an accurate feeler gauge for it this time . Also remember that tappet clearance should be set on an absolutely cold engine ( if you ride to the service center , leave the bike there for 4 hours before the job - to cool down fully ) . A little loose and noisy tappets is better than even a wee-bit tight one - you already know how tight tappets feel now - it hurts the motor too . Idle rpm on the other hand is set on a very well warmed engine . In both cases use the values given in your bike's owner's manual .

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

nah man, shell was talked about by some people just a few days ago (and another time not too long ago) when again shell vs 300v was asked by someone. you might have missed it...:-)

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just experiment (carefully and progressively, not abruptly and drastically) and you'd soon get all the minimal feeling/instinct you'd need for braking the R15 in the wet, and braking in general (that won't mean mistakes and crashes on account of braking error won't ever happen again :P) ...

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

are you sure about this? Cause the traction is already broken, making the wheel spin hard wont really help. I thought the best way would be to stop braking n let the bike stabilize itself, as free rotation would let the bike regain traction. I could be wrong though.

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

i have experienced quite a few fishfails, in my opinion, releasing the brake and applying SMOOTH throttle will get you out of it easily.


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Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

My Ride is Finally home Cheers
R15 ♥ :*
But got some minor scratches on the fuel tank Any solutions guys ?? do help
Black beauty
Can feel the bumps and dips on the road

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

Trying rubbing polish followed by a coat of polish.
Get a tank pad as a long term solution.

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0


Thanks Guys..
This is not my first bike and I applied brakes correctly. Did not pressed rear one hard but still faced fishtail.
And I released throttle that helped me to control the bike.