Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

Hey don't worry. I had done the same. But the engine can bear this much abuse, after all it's a Yamaha. But get it rectified ASAP.

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

I will get it done by asc only! Thanks again [emoji2][emoji2]

Oh is it? Alright then [emoji106]
Tomorrow after exams I ll directly goto asc [emoji16]

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Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

Motul 300v is recommended only if you're gonna be riding hard as hell or at the track. And if you're running the stock ECU you're limited only to around 9500 rpm... I'm running a PowerTRONIC ECU, high lift cams and a Big-bore kit and I'm using Motul 7100 20w50. It's good enough.

Ride hard. Ride safe.
Akash.

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Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

Exactly. If bike is not revved hard or used for race purposes 90% of time, people should/must go for 300V. Else 7100 is quite a good FS and it also fits into the grade recommendation of the mannual. BTW in stock ECU, the REV limiter kick in at 10.5 k.

Whoa !! Now that's a good config. Share with us the difference you're feeling over the stock config and also the cost.

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

The PowerTRONIC RS ECU:

This is probably the most worthwhile mod in my opinion. The pre loaded maps, when used correctly, make a huge difference to your ride. There's an instant and significant improvement in throttle response and torque, all thanks to the little extra fuel that gets sent into the cylinder. Rev limit gets increased to 12k rpm which means you can finally exploit the true potential of your R15. The pre loaded maps can be used in accordance with other performance modifications.

High-lift camshaft (Race Concepts) :

This mod is only recommended if you are willing to sacrifice your low-end and mid-range torque for a serious bump in your high-end. The high-lift cam increases your valve timing hence making it less aggressive at lower rpms. But upwards of about 7k rpm there's a significant increase in torque all the way to the red-line. This is only useful at the track or if you don't mind revving hard and going WOT on the streets. And if you start missing your low-end and mid-range (Trust me... You will) you can improve your throttle response by installing a conical air-filter (BMC recommended) and/or Iridium spark-plugs (NGK or Splitfire) along with the Iridium ignition coil. But these two won't bring back your low-end (the air-filter might bump up your initial torque juuustt a liiitttlle).

180cc Big-bore kit (Race Concepts) :

The big-bore is a pretty new mod on my bike and hence I haven't really had the chance to put it through torture tests. But I'll share whatever I've gathered till now.
My initial torque has been bumped up quite a bit and so has the power. Acceleration is faster now. But getting to the higher rpms now seems to be a task for the bike. It gets there.... But it's not as easy or smooth as before I installed the new bore. This is either because I've changed the oil I use (Switched from the semi-synthetic Yamalube to fully-synthetic Motul 7100 20W50) or because I don't have a free-flow exhaust and the stock one is creating too much back pressure. And then cold starts are bloody sad after changing the bore. Guess I need to get that sorted out. Anyway... Think all this is normal and the pros of the bore surely outweigh it's cons.

Simota Aftermarket replacement air-filter :

I honestly wasn't satisfied with the Simota air-filter. I installed it with the high-lift cam and the PowerTRONIC. As it is the cam killed my initial torque and the new air-filter wasn't helping. I was running the conical BMC without the top of the filter box before that and went back to that after 400kms with the Simota. Much better throttle response with the BMC.


This current set-up is an absolute dream, the perfect configuration for the way I ride.

(All prices started are what they were when I purchased them)

PowerTRONIC RS ECU : 10500
High-lift camshaft : 5500 (I think)
Big-bore kit (180cc) : 7500

And purchased at Race Concepts, Bangalore.

Check out the RC website.

Joel Joseph does some really good stuff guys. Should really check out Race Concepts . - a happy and very satisfied customer.

Ride hard. Ride safe.
Akash.


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Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

I would suggest a few things for your set up, 1) If your cam doesn't have a decomp pin hole, get one that does, there are many to choose from, source from Indonesia or Malaysia
2) Get a big valve head, this make a huge difference
3) Free flow exhaust, Joel now make it in SS, I had the older model which rusted, I subsequently remade it in SS with slightly thicker gauge, it sounds sweet and works very well. Air filter Simota is good and cheap.
4) Get the 32mm throttle body if you can, though not essential, it gives good gains.
5) Either get the bike set up properly on a dyno or get an O2 sensor and data logger and do it yourself as you are close to Bangalore you can get it set up on their Dyno or I'm sure you can get it done in Chennai. I've just borrowed an O2 sensor and have welded a bung on my exhaust, so will get the map tweaked probably by tomorrow as i'm running a pretty decent map right now, not sure of the FE as yet, if i can get around 32 I will be happy (I only got 35 max on a stock set up as there is no proper highway over here)

Items 1-3 and of course 5 will save you from future hassles and deliver enough power to see off a stock CBR250R, I don't have the 32mm TB as yet, but that's my next purchase. Also make sure you run good fuel, the big valve head will relieve some compression and a cam with decomp hole will save your starter clutch and starter motor, I have been through one starter clutch and 6 starter motors, so that's over 15k which i would have rather spent elsewhere, not to mention waiting 15-20 days each time for the spare parts to arrive.

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

Yeah already planning on doing head work... And getting an exhaust as soon as I save enough cash


Ride hard. Ride safe.
Akash.

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

Forget just head work, big valve head is way better. For anyone who is planning these mods plan it out, it's going to be costly, some parts you can order from abroad as no one is stocking them here, go for the whole kit at once, rather than in stages if going for a bigger bore, they run high compression, regardless of where you buy from, big valve heads relieve some compression as do thicker gaskets (it will run far better without thicker gaskets, these are better suited to increase of stroke), either retain the stock cam or get one with decomp you will compromise on peak power a little, but they have better road manners and save your starter motor, also bare in mind rewound starter motors don't last long on this bike, even with decomp still functional you'll be lucky to get through one week.

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

it's actually 10500 on a stock.

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

My R15 v2.0 is 2yrs old and has done around 7k kms. I know its very less (have to use the car more often..)
I have to get her serviced, should i change the coolant and the brake fluid too as its mentioned in the manual to do so every 2yrs and what would be the approx cost for these?
Is there anything else apart from the regular service that i should do?

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

It is advisable to do so. If possible get the whole brake unit overhauled , also check the condition of the cables.

Cheers
Ride Safe
Krishna

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

thanks for the heads up!!
should i also get the coolant replaced and what would changing the brake fluid cost?

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

Yes, definitely , change the radiator fluid. The brake fluid should cost very less. I think a bottle of DOT3 goes for less than 200rs. And you need very very little only. Get it done form the svc, they will take care of it.


Cheers
Ride Safe
Krishna

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

Ohk..
I guess Yamaha recomends DOT4. Is it also similarly priced.
Just bought the Motul 300V for the first time :-)

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

yes, agree, the power delivery is flat beyond 9800, but technically the engine's still running beyond 9800 and the RPM still go nearly as far as 10500, so technically the rev limiter is at 10500 (tacho) and not at 9800 (or 9800-250). :-) the power is not actually totally cut off by the ECU (which is what the rev limiter does) at or beyond 9800, it's just a nearly flat power delivery beyond that point..