Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

Just check once the air pressure in the tyres

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

The tyre pressure was normal, but the rear wheel was out of alignment. Thanks anyway.

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

I installed a Philips Night vision bulb on the left side headlight. When i turned the bulb on over DC (bike engine was off) the onscreen back light went off and back on again. Is that normal as the bulb pulls out excess power? Or is that something I should be worried about? Is there any precaution I should take? Also, the FZ comes with a 12V 5ah battery. Don't both fz n r15 share the same alternator? Can't we replace our standard battery with that one? I couldn't find a repair manual of the FZ.

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

something's happened to my bike's front end recently (about 100 kms ago)...at extremely low speeds the handle/front-end feels abnormal in the sense that it's kinda unstable/wobbly...the handle rotation is not uniform and smooth at all angles...initially i thought it was just in my head but this time it isn't..i have checked it a million times and almost every time at low speeds it's behaving like that...not really happening at high speeds so far...i dont exactly know how to describe but it's like when a bicycle's or scooty's front tyre is punctured so if you still ride it the front would feel non-uniform and the handle has a non-uniform and unsmooth feeling/rotation...it's kinda like that except it's not feeling like that continously, but comes and goes...it's the kind of stuff that's making the bike a little bit nervous when turned at slow speeds but not just at turning, even when i am going straight it's being felt..

i checked the tyre pressure thinking perhaps somehow it has gone too low (although in that case at higher speeds also front would behaved a bit abnormally) but it was alright...maybe a huge puncture has happened but havent checked it yet, but again if it's due to puncture then why is it not felt at higher speeds ? maybe wheel not aligned all of a sudden but again that should also be felt at higher speeds...god knows what it must be that manifests itself only at low speeds..and whatever it is it has happened sometime less than 100kms ago out of nothing.

anyone any ideas what must be wrong ? coneset damaged maybe or what (but isnt that also something that would have been felt at higher speeds too)?

my bike's 6th service is due in a couple of days and i will probably go to svc on wednesday but i dont know how to explain them, particularly because as we all know they dont like to open the bike up unless something explicit is pointed out....they also said there was no need to keep the bike at svc overnight and work the tappets the next morning, because it can be done the same day without having to wait a bunch of hours to cool the engine down, apparently that's not needed and that it gets cold enough during the time it takes to open things up to expose the engine...i can just hope they aren't just being lazy about it.

edit - just occurred to me a better analogy than previously written above to describe whats happening in my bike's front...imagine hanging a heavy polybag containing various things on one of the sides of the handlebar, as everyone must have done on their cycles or scooters or bikes many times in their lives...the new and uneven weight so away from the centre of mass due to that extra load (which also keeps on moving like a random pendulum once the vehicle is in motion) then makes the handlebar non-uniform in feel and rotation and one feels fluctuating forces at the front every now and again, more so at lower speeds (because the lower momentum makes it more prone to getting disturbed by any disturbances)...same also happens if on both sides of the handle one has hung 2 polybags/etc weighing enough to uneven-out the whole setup...that's what i am feeling from my front at low speeds..and as i said, it's not continuous (that is, not happening through out the duration it's in some low speed range), it comes and goes but still regular enough...

any ideas as to what exactly could be the issue will be helpful...sorry for the long post, that's what happens when one doesnt know the exact problem and has to describe too generally using analogies.

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

Philips Night breaker is 55/60 w and standard lamps are 30/35w and so it will load the battery. It would be normal for the backlight to flikr. Probably what you can do is start the light after igniting the engine for some time. That way the battery should be able to support. Regardless, AFAIK, you might some issues in night rides where you may have too keep your headlamps for a longer while.

R15 has a 3.5 amp battery. Am not sure whether FZ has the same.

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Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

Philips extreme vision. sorry my bad. Yeah its a 55/60W bulb. But then if i turned on both my low and high 35W previously, it never caused such an issue on the battery. 1 60W < 35+35W?

FZ has 12v 5ah

Also, I felt a lack in power when i turned on this headlamp. Or maybe its just psychological, I dunno.

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0


Same thing happened to me. The front wheel was unstable at low speeds and corners. I found the chain slack adjustment bolts out of alignment which resulted in the rear wheel to be out of alignment. I fixed that and the problem was sorted. I hope this helps...

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

^^

yeah will keep that in mind..

i think it's either wheel misalignment (front or rear or both) or maybe forks slightly bent or something...whatever is the cause, it's small enough so far that it doesnt affect the high speed behavior but only the small speed behaviour...

in addition the cornering confidence of the bike has totally gone, it's so nervous and feeling abnormal (as if the front can wash away anytime) :-(

i just hope tomorrow the svc mechs can quickly figure out what it is and that it's a simple/common enough issue that gets fixed without any subsequent problems..bike's just barely a year old.

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

just an update about my steering/handle/handling problem (since i wrote a long post about it above).

went to svc today for the 6th and final free service, turns out the check nut of the handlebar/steering had become a bit jammed and displaced (or rather, dis-oriented) from its default position somehow...as a result the movement of the whole handlebar assembly had gone unnatural and non-smooth/uniform...

many things could have caused it, most likely the abuse from the 15-20 speed breakers (many of them really brutal and sharp) in a road of 3km length that joins my place to the nearest highway...it probably had started disorienting a bit by bit sometime ago but it was probably very tiny enough and so never made a difference to any type of handling characteristics and neither was felt otherwise and somehow 4-5 days ago it went significantly out of proper position. (in fact today morning the ride (from my home to svc) was much more horrible than the last couple of days, it had become so bad at speeds below 60kmph that the bike felt totally ****ed up to ride.

anyway, they fixed it and now it feels and handles like it used to...checked its flickability and narrow-gap overtaking through traffic (which had become uncomfortable or even at times scary the last 4 days) and it was fine, and moreover immediately took it to some nearby fairly empty corners and pushed it over some aggressive deep cornering to check if anything at all felt abnormal and it's thankfully all fine now.

also refilled the coolant and disc brake oil both of which had gone nearly empty (odo only over 7300kms).

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

Am about to get my R15 (Racing Blue) delivered to me in another 18 hours or so. Would like to say that the posts in the thread have been one of the major factors in choosing this bike over the CBR250, Duke 390 and even the Bullet 500.
I do understand that the four bikes (including the R15) do not belong the same category or price range. But having test ridden all the four bikes, felt the most comfortable with the R15 (am 6feet 2). This after driving a RE Classic 500 for more than a year.
Any final words of advise before I embark on the journey with the Yamaha (a brand that I adored from RX 100 days and 'The Doctor'days).

Cheers!

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

[MENTION=71050]mustang28[/MENTION]: Be careful it's highly addictive :-)

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Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0


Can't wait to get addicted!!

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

Finish run- in ASAP

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Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

Hello guys! A friend of mine is about to book an Invincible Black R15. He has ridden my 2013 Invincible Black R15. How different is the Euro IV R15, from the Euro III one, technically? Is it smoother and/or faster?

Regards!

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

Don't forget to do the PDI checks. This is very important. Still I'm listing down for better understanding:

PDI check list:

-All body parts for scratches, dents and misfits.
-Odometer reading.
-Instrumental cluster for any defect in lights and lcd.
-All switch-gears and its functions.
-Headlights, tail light and indicators.
-Radiator for bent fins.
-Engine oil and coolant level.
-Front shock absorber leaks.
-Chain slack and lube state.
-Both alloys for any visible cracks/bends.
-Engine noise, vibration and harshness. (not that its going to have, but better to ensure it doesn't)
-Both brakes- Oil level and effectiveness.
-Tyre pressure.

After the delivery, follow the break-in procedure as given in the manual and you'll get the good effects after 2 years. Break-in procedure I would recommend:

Acooriding to ODO readings: (for the first 1000 kms, give the bike a rest of 10-12 mins after riding for 30-35 mins.)

1. 0-500 kms: Don't rev the bike above 5K RPM. Try to ride engaging all gears. City riding with heavy to medium traffic is the best option for this time being. Heavy traffic will force you to engage all the low gears and not allow you to rev high. Medium traffic will allow you to ride at higher gears but again will not allow you to rev high. (If possible, change the oil and oil filter at the ODO reading of 150-170 kms)

2. 500-1000 kms: Don't rev the bike above 7K RPM. City riding with medium to light traffic is the best option for this time being. Medium traffic will force you to engage all the low gears and not allow you to rev high above 7K. Light traffic will allow you to ride at higher gears but again will not allow you to rev higher than 7K. Try to have some speed bursts, like rev upto 8K RPM in all gears, except 1st and 2nd, but not for a prolonged period. These speed bursts may last upto a min or so max.

3. Change the oil and oil filter at the first service which will come at the ODO reading of 1K kms. Always try to do the services as per the kms reading and not the time period mentioned. Try to cover up as much kms you can do within the time period mentioned. If the kms reading is around 100-200 kms short of that mentioned in the manual then no issues. Else, try to cover up with kms.

4. 1000-3000 kms: Don't rev the bike above 9K RPM. Light traffic city riding mixed with highway riding is the best option for this time being.

5. Change the oil and oil filter at the second service which will come at the ODO reading of 3K kms.

6. Your bike's engine is now ready. Now rev your bike and enjoy the pleasure of redlining. One piece of information: Break-in continues till 4-5K kms, but those are very minute and you don't need to restrict your bike for those.

AFAIK, the FI system has been revamped a little to match up to the emission standards of Euro 3.