Can you please with us the queries that where answered.Thank you.

Recommends who?

Is it your personal opinion or a proven fact/ manufacturer opinion and recommendation?

Most modern day FI engines are not that crude. That is why every manual recommends changing oil n oil filter directly during first service. I completely agree with the metal filings getting generated and mixed with the oil more during the first few kms but certainly not to the extent of clogging the oil filter. I myself changed oil n oil filter at 400 kms n there was no noticeable difference.

Exactly.

I believe user manuals for R15, CBR250, CBR150, Duke 200 no where mention any time period restrictions for run in. Not even any recommendations around it. As mulli84 rightly said, sudden acceleration, braking is to be avoided; RPMs to be varied; Engine to be rested for some time after every 100 kms approx.

I know a handful of riders who have completed their run in over 2 - 4 days and their engines are equally smooth and performing if not better.

they definitely update the ECu just checking the errors will not lead to smoothness, in my experience you are talking about the Eradication of the problem of Duke Hiccups at initial 1000 to 2200 rpms. I also got the problem rectified recently at the service Camp via the same method.

i beg to differ on metal files count, i changed the oil at roughly 65 kms on ODO and the oil which came out was shimmering with metal files and jet black in colour, just today i ahd my first service at 621 kms on ODO and this engine oil was noticeably better to an extent that the Service tech. commented that this oil is good enough to be used in commuter bike for 1500-2000 kms. Now honestly the oil at 65kms on ODO was so bad in every way that i am grateful that i did took it out !
At the same time i do agree with you on that the Dukes engine like any modern well made engine is sturdy enough to partially compensate for the run in errors . The difference in performance from a good Run in and bad run in is so less these days that you need to compare two different bikes side by side to truly appreciate it though it is still tangible to experienced bikers.
Also Important to note is Duke Does tend to heat upa lot during initial 1000 kms a lot and extended riding with high temp without giving bike much needed break can or may lead to Cylinder wall glazing or even in extreme scenerio deformed piston rings!

So i would advice taking it easy initially and keep a good eye on engine temp bar specially if you are stuck in heavy traffic !

Thank God winters will be here soon to save Bikers who are in running In period still.

New ECU map

They definitely have change the ecu mapping. By Remapping what I mean was done is that a new file was fed to the ecu using the diagnostic tool. I was one of the first here in Navi Mumbai who got the new 'map'. This new file/map was intended to smoothen the throttle response in the initial rpms(1000-2000). To take care of the jerky fueling in that band. You can clearly feel the difference after the 'remapping' in the lower rpms.

1)The bike doesn't stall in second gear even at slightly above 1500 rpm.
2) The idling frequecy has gone above to around 1500 rpm from the 1200-1350 odd earlier.
3) Take your bike out. engage the first cog. Ride while not twisting the throttle at all, the bike still trudges ahead at around 6-7 kph. Now pull the throttle(the twist should be sudden and not gradual). The way the revs build for till 2000-2500 rpm is vastly different than what it used to be before the remapping.
The rev built up is smoother and SLOWER in this range. So the bike does not leaps forward as much maniacally as it used to.
And I miss that big time. I requested the engineer at KTM svc to change the map back to what it was citing the 'neutered' response in the initial rpm range and he told me that I am the only person not happy with the new setting. and that other guys have given very good feedback like the bike pulls great at higher rpms
But I say that duke is all about surging ahead at traffic lights and not about high rpms. You have the Ninjas and CBRs for that. Good that the stalling problem is over(i never much faced it in the first place ) but the neutered response moving from standstill is a big thumbs down from me.

I want my old map please!!!

Any one of you got Dirtsack Speedbags for Duke ? Looking for review on them...

Photo Courtesy : Dirtsack

@Harsha,

I love close to Monitype, please PM me your number, I will give you a call and see if we can catch up sometime (best time when u come for service). I can cement my opinion once i talk to you. meeting in person will help a lot in understanding the bike.

Thanks,
Sudhi

I agree with you on most of your points Doga, however I feel that the initial is still very good and although it is negligibly neutered as you say, this is the only way to guarantee that the bike won't cut off which could be dangerous when you are riding in high speed traffic. I personally had a fellow motorist drive his car bumper right into my rear wheel, fortunately the car bumper flexed and so there was no damage, also the speed this happened at was like around 3-5kmph, but it happened because the bike just suddenly decided to cut off when I tried to take off in first gear. So for me I think the new map is good. Although there are claims here that the bike does not touch the claimed 138kmph top speed anymore? Is this true? If it is then why this sacrifice just to achieve a stable idle speed and avoid engine cut off?

Great!! how much they cost? Where can i get them??Anyone planned yet to get the stock tyres changed to a little dual purpose ones??It would be a lil difficult finding a dual purpose for duke keeping in mind the fat section. The stock tyres are fine although have a nice grip bit not a good effort by MRF.Also winters are ahead thus lots of holidays and im about to tour a lot so any help would really help regarding new tyres. thanks.

Recently Nandan Jadhav from Pune went on a trip with these bags to Leh. you can try n contact him(he's in my FB profile).

Agreed Josh. That is true. But could they have probably done the job without the 'castration' in the initial rpms? I don't know.

I just ordered them.


1. Dirtsack Speedbags for KTM Duke @ Rs. 3000, Qty. 01
2. Dirtsack Racepack for KTM Duke @ Rs 1950 , Qty .01
3. Dirtsack Tailpack for KTM Duke @ Rs 2100 , Qty. 01

Shipping is Rs 300

You can contact them via https://www.facebook.com/pages/Dirtsack/320929844599535

Thank you inder.cool. Found him

@Ankitvile,

I spoke with the contact person of DirtSack Mr. Jaydeep (09819883283). He said the entire kit costs around 7k. I am planning to get the complete set after the review of Nandan Jadhav

Dirtsack website is here and the facebook page is here

Just finished 500+ KM on the Duke!

~ Can you recommend how often should I change the engine oil?
~ Will the Duke engine get cooler? It gets pretty heated on rides

change at first 100 km ideally.then at 500 km.then at first service. then at 2500.then at 5000. this is what i 'tried' to adhere to.subjective really.many people don't do it and still extract good performance out of their bikes. So either you can fret a lot and have peace in life or you can chill and have fun
it will get cooler.

Fair enough, will get it changed today! I too was thinking that the first change at 1K was a little stretched