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KTM 200 Duke

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  • Re: KTM 200 Duke

    Originally posted by faster View Post
    Hello,

    Recently I noticed that when bike gets hot ( after touching the second last point of the second half of temperature indicator ), the RPM starts to idle at 2K-2.5K continuously till it cools down a bit. What could be the reason ? Bike is 22k old now.

    Also please let me know what replacement/adjustment I can expect in the next service which is after 3 months . ( Only Chain set is replaced till date @ 17 K , apart from the obvious Oil/filters etc. in regular services ).

    Thanks.
    I think you should consider changing the coolant entirely, which would increases the cooling efficiency of the bike. my D200 also 25k odo but no such issue
    No replacement for an engine Displacement

    Comment


    • Re: KTM 200 Duke

      Originally posted by faster View Post
      Recently I noticed that when bike gets hot ( after touching the second last point of the second half of temperature indicator ), the RPM starts to idle at 2K-2.5K continuously till it cools down a bit. What could be the reason ? Bike is 22k old now.
      that is a pretty high temp reading for a 200. Does it happen often?
      temp going in to the upper segment happens usually when you rip hard and then the bike is in stop go traffic for a long time and you turn off the engine.
      and i don't think the idle should be increasing to 2-2.5k. It should still idle at the ~1500rpm

      i have d200 that has similar mileage and I was once stuck in traffic for around 2 hours and the temp never crossed the lower segment.. it was in fact two points shy of the lower segment most of the time. if you let the fan run (rather than switch off engine) the temp will be under control.

      Please get it checked at the svc.. it could be a bad idle control stepper motor and while you are at it, you might also want to change the coolant if its been close to two years.

      Comment


      • Re: KTM 200 Duke

        Originally posted by s1d View Post
        that is a pretty high temp reading for a 200. Does it happen often?
        temp going in to the upper segment happens usually when you rip hard and then the bike is in stop go traffic for a long time and you turn off the engine.
        and i don't think the idle should be increasing to 2-2.5k. It should still idle at the ~1500rpm

        i have d200 that has similar mileage and I was once stuck in traffic for around 2 hours and the temp never crossed the lower segment.. it was in fact two points shy of the lower segment most of the time. if you let the fan run (rather than switch off engine) the temp will be under control.

        Please get it checked at the svc.. it could be a bad idle control stepper motor and while you are at it, you might also want to change the coolant if its been close to two years.
        It happens in stop go traffic without any prior ripping ( for half an hour + ) and the temperature starts to climb infact for the first time I have seen the bike console saying high coolant temperature when all the indicators of upper segment of temperature indicator lit up .

        For the last 3-4 months this high temperature has started and after the last service, high idle rpm problem started along with high temperature. I never switch off the bike. Bike is around 2.5+ Years old.

        My bike has always idled at 1200 exact.

        I will get the coolant changed. Whats the cost of coolant and idle control stepper motor ?

        Thanks.

        Comment


        • Re: KTM 200 Duke

          Originally posted by chip94 View Post
          Happens to my 390 too.
          I checked on my old bike Twister and it happens marginally there too. So I think it is fine.

          If you have a paddock stand then can you do the following?

          * Shift bike on paddock stand (rear).
          * Start bike and engage 1st gear. (I'm not sure if its safe to engage 1st gear on paddock, don't know how exactly the paddock works.)
          * Try to notice any difference in wheel rotation speed when the clutch lever is not pressed and when the lever is under free movement.
          * There shouldn't be any change in wheel rotation speed during that freeplay, but hold the lever in freeplay for a 30secs or so cause the wheel may take sometime to slow down and show any noticeable change if at all there is a problem.
          * And when you feel the load on the cable, the wheel rotation speed should reduce because the clutch starts to engage.
          * That was how I used to do the clutch setting on my Twister. No paddock stand so cannot do this check myself on my D200.

          SAFETY ADVICE: Be careful with your feet and pants not to get in contact with chain where gear is engaged, also don't wear loose fitting pants.
          Last edited by philip.gunner; 07-22-2016, 11:04 AM. Reason: Bullet points are non-ops

          Comment


          • Re: KTM 200 Duke

            Originally posted by faster View Post
            It happens in stop go traffic without any prior ripping ( for half an hour + ) and the temperature starts to climb infact for the first time I have seen the bike console saying high coolant temperature when all the indicators of upper segment of temperature indicator lit up .

            For the last 3-4 months this high temperature has started and after the last service, high idle rpm problem started along with high temperature. I never switch off the bike. Bike is around 2.5+ Years old.

            My bike has always idled at 1200 exact.

            I will get the coolant changed. Whats the cost of coolant and idle control stepper motor ?

            Thanks.
            It isn't to do with coolant in your case I believe, recommend to change it, if it has been over two years since the last change or it was never be replaced at all, but I'm certain, coolant is not causing high coolant temp message to pop-up and idle rpm climbing to 2/2.5k.

            Your radiator fan has begun giving up, trust me I have been there. I faced very symptoms on my 200D (2012 model) 3 months back with 25k kms on odo and bike was 3.4 years old. Exactly 25 to 30 minutes into the trip and your idle rpm rises to 2/2.5 rpm and 10-15 minutes later high coolant temp message shows up. Turn back may be 30 pages or something to see my post regarding the same.

            As sid said, no matter how hard you rip your bike / be stranded in crawling traffic conditions, coolant temp would never cross the last two points in the lower segment in ideal conditions, unless fan is not able to keep up in bring down the temp. Yours seems like 2013 model, so I guess both yours and mine came with Minda manufactured radiator fan.

            Replace coolant if it is old as said above, but please check at the svc (using the diagnostic tool) as to how long it takes for the fan to bring down the temp once the fan kicked-in, repeat this for more than twice and observe, record the duration of how long the fan takes. If it is spinning for two long then you know where the issue is.

            Motul inugel coolant 1L costs around 190/- and importantly 200D gulps precisely 1L, if drained properly.

            Keep us posted.


            cheers,
            Srvn

            Comment


            • Re: KTM 200 Duke

              I guess I'm asking too many silly questions.
              Well here's another one.

              I located the 14-pin molex connector for hazard light adaptor fitment. But the connector has come with some tape and a pen mark which seems to be marked to act like a seal mark. Click image for larger version

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              Did this tape come with previous edition of Duke/RC? Cause it looks like that tape has been added to help the service guys to identify if that connector was tampered with. Or I'm reading into it too much?

              EDIT: Well there is an option to just apply a new tape when fitting the original connector back but I have never seen such tape before, it's not cellotape or masking tape, seems to be made of cloth.
              Last edited by philip.gunner; 07-22-2016, 03:49 PM.

              Comment


              • Re: KTM 200 Duke

                Originally posted by faster View Post
                It happens in stop go traffic without any prior ripping ( for half an hour + ) and the temperature starts to climb infact for the first time I have seen the bike console saying high coolant temperature when all the indicators of upper segment of temperature indicator lit up .

                For the last 3-4 months this high temperature has started and after the last service, high idle rpm problem started along with high temperature. I never switch off the bike. Bike is around 2.5+ Years old.

                My bike has always idled at 1200 exact.

                I will get the coolant changed. Whats the cost of coolant and idle control stepper motor ?
                Get it checked at the svc. They can connect their diagnostic tool and check if the fan is coming on at the predefined temp. and how long it takes to go off. In my observation the fan has never stayed on for more than 90 seconds continuously under normal use(City traffic/traffic jams), in fact most of the time it turns off in less than 60 seconds (and comes back on after a minute or so if still stuck in traffic)
                It's time you changed the coolant since its been 2+ years.
                The normal idle for the d200 is 1400~1500 rpm (goes up-to 1600 for a couple of seconds on a cold morning)
                Originally posted by philip.gunner View Post
                I located the 14-pin molex connector for hazard light adaptor fitment. But the connector has come with some tape and a pen mark which seems to be marked to act like a seal mark.
                There is a plug on the molex connector with two pins jumpered. If for some reason you lose the flasher module or it misbehaves, it might be impossible to start the bike if those two pins are not jumpered. So when you remove the plug and put in the flasher, keep the removed connector under the seat(in toolkit) so that you can put in back if needed.
                Don't worry about that tape, only bajaj knows why they put on a tape and even if the svc is smart enough to point out a missing 'tape' you can always feign ignorance.

                Comment


                • Re: KTM 200 Duke

                  Originally posted by philip.gunner View Post
                  I checked on my old bike Twister and it happens marginally there too. So I think it is fine.

                  If you have a paddock stand then can you do the following?

                  * Shift bike on paddock stand (rear).
                  * Start bike and engage 1st gear. (I'm not sure if its safe to engage 1st gear on paddock, don't know how exactly the paddock works.)
                  * Try to notice any difference in wheel rotation speed when the clutch lever is not pressed and when the lever is under free movement.
                  * There shouldn't be any change in wheel rotation speed during that freeplay, but hold the lever in freeplay for a 30secs or so cause the wheel may take sometime to slow down and show any noticeable change if at all there is a problem.
                  * And when you feel the load on the cable, the wheel rotation speed should reduce because the clutch starts to engage.
                  * That was how I used to do the clutch setting on my Twister. No paddock stand so cannot do this check myself on my D200.
                  Don't try these gimmicks. Just keep the free-play at the recommended setting. And yes with the recommended setting you will see the other end i.e.clutch case end move a bit but it isn't causing the clutch to engage/disengage. The free-play can be adjusted by adjusting the nuts at both the lever end or the clutch case end.

                  You will be surprised at how the 200/390 behaves on a paddock in 1st gear. I've seen it umpteen number of times (the svc folks plonk it on the paddock, start the bike and shift it to 1st and lube the chain). A new bike usually has the rear wheel rotating continuously without a much of a 'hiccup' , while a say a bike that's clocked a couple of 1000k km will have the wheel hiccuping at times like its getting stuck as it rotates.And also on these bikes, you will notice that by just slipping the clutch with no throttle, the bike will crawl forward in 1st gear.
                  When on paddock one needs to be careful and ensure the sprocket doesnt touch the paddock rubber mount (i've seen those mounts chewed up by the sprocket over time) and also be careful when you put the bike in gear or one could have your fingers chopped off. I've told the svc folks, but they refuse to listen..and i leave the choice to them. the svc i go to keeps a bowl of used engine oil and a grunge brush, and they put the bike in 1st (no throttle) and as the chain rotates, dip the grunge brush in oil and hold it against the chain.. they do this for a minute or so and the chain is completely lubed.. of course there is a bit of a oil drip down the side stand over the next day or two. they do it for free and this is how I've had my chain maintained so far (with the occasional use of spray lube for convenience)

                  ----consecutive posts auto-merged-----

                  Originally posted by philip.gunner View Post
                  I located the 14-pin molex connector for hazard light adaptor fitment.
                  what is that tiny plastic/rubber thingy above the molex connector in that pic ? the one next to the fuse box.

                  Comment


                  • Re: KTM 200 Duke

                    Originally posted by s1d View Post
                    Don't try these gimmicks. Just keep the free-play at the recommended setting. And yes with the recommended setting you will see the other end i.e.clutch case end move a bit but it isn't causing the clutch to engage/disengage. The free-play can be adjusted by adjusting the nuts at both the lever end or the clutch case end.

                    You will be surprised at how the 200/390 behaves on a paddock in 1st gear. I've seen it umpteen number of times (the svc folks plonk it on the paddock, start the bike and shift it to 1st and lube the chain). A new bike usually has the rear wheel rotating continuously without a much of a 'hiccup' , while a say a bike that's clocked a couple of 1000k km will have the wheel hiccuping at times like its getting stuck as it rotates.And also on these bikes, you will notice that by just slipping the clutch with no throttle, the bike will crawl forward in 1st gear.
                    Is the hiccuping normal? Ive noticed that too. Any possibility of reducing it?

                    Comment


                    • Re: KTM 200 Duke

                      Originally posted by s1d View Post
                      what is that tiny plastic/rubber thingy above the molex connector in that pic ? the one next to the fuse box.
                      Click image for larger version

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                      Not sure what it is.

                      Comment


                      • Re: KTM 200 Duke

                        Originally posted by chip94 View Post
                        Is the hiccuping normal? Ive noticed that too. Any possibility of reducing it?
                        normal, nothing to worry.
                        Originally posted by philip.gunner View Post
                        Not sure what it is.
                        well, this is not present on my late 2014 model (though i see a metal protrusion from the frame where this seems to be fixed on your bike)
                        a quick google of that part number shows it as some 'relay'
                        it also resembles the diagnostic port, but the diag port is a 6 pin connector while this looks like a 4 pin connector
                        or it could be some sort of a termination for an accessory. on my bike apart from the diag connector, there is also another two pin connector (like that of a sata power connector) but it isn't closed off at the other end. it is just lying down unconnected.
                        also from the pic, i notice that the fuse box seems a bit longer compared to the one on mine.
                        probably minor changes/improvements over the years.
                        Last edited by s1d; 07-23-2016, 10:54 PM.

                        Comment


                        • Re: KTM 200 Duke

                          Hey,

                          Am sure all of us do face the problem a mud spray on the back while riding in the rain.
                          I used my bike without the rear tyre hugger for more than a year.
                          I got the hugger fixed when the rain started this year.
                          It doesn't make a difference. There still is mud being sprayed on the back.
                          Is there a possible jugad that can be done to prevent the mid spray.?
                          Day to day commute is managable as I wear a rain jacket. However, it hurts to see the condition of my riding jacket after a ride..

                          Any input will be appreciated..

                          Comment


                          • Re: KTM 200 Duke

                            Originally posted by s1d View Post
                            i notice that the fuse box seems a bit longer compared to the one on mine.
                            probably minor changes/improvements over the years.
                            The manual says there are 6 fuses and 3 spares. But actually there are 8 fuses and 3 spares, and couple of empty slots too.

                            Click image for larger version

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                            The repair manual drawing shows R30 looped from the diagnostic connector. R30 is termed as "CAN bus terminating resistor 1". This drawing is titled 2014 Duke 200.

                            Another drawing is shown for 2013 Duke 200 and in that this loop is shown open ended.

                            You have this repair manual, refer page 238 and 256.

                            EDIT: You mentioned you have the 2014 model so maybe the drawings are for export version of Dukes.
                            Last edited by philip.gunner; 07-24-2016, 12:27 AM.

                            Comment


                            • Re: KTM 200 Duke

                              Originally posted by philip.gunner View Post
                              The manual says there are 6 fuses and 3 spares. But actually there are 8 fuses and 3 spares, and couple of empty slots too.

                              The repair manual drawing shows R30 looped from the diagnostic connector. R30 is termed as "CAN bus terminating resistor 1". This drawing is titled 2014 Duke 200.

                              Another drawing is shown for 2013 Duke 200 and in that this loop is shown open ended.

                              You have this repair manual, refer page 238 and 256.

                              EDIT: You mentioned you have the 2014 model so maybe the drawings are for export version of Dukes.
                              From your description, it looks like the fuse box has been 'standardized' across the models.
                              I had a look at the fuse box of the rc200 (first lot 2014) and it did have 2 empty slots.
                              My 2014 model duke doesn't have any empty slot in the fuse box, and iirc it has only 6 fuses and 3 spares. that explains the 'length' of the fuse box.
                              The ABS models have extra fuses for the ABS units.. and remember the 200's come with abs in some export markets and hence those empty slots. I am still curious about the 8 fuses. Can you post a pic or description from the sticker on the fuse box ?

                              As for that part you showed, it could probably be that terminating resistor or whatever.. i tried going thru the parts finder (Spare Parts Finder) but unfortunately that part doesn't seem to be 'named' even though it is shown in the pic (labeled as 25 in the wiring harness category). this is not present in the older 200's.
                              Last edited by s1d; 07-24-2016, 02:11 AM.

                              Comment


                              • Re: KTM 200 Duke

                                There are many washing centres in and around Pune city. Many of us prefer washing our bikes by ourselves, but sometimes you fall sick and you can't get messed up washing your ride. So the only resort it to go to your local washing-wala.
                                The problem is these guys are not accustomed to washing bikes with radiators and loads of electronics. Sometimes they get lazy and don't even wash your rims, under belly exhaust pans, fork recesses and other minute details which otherwise we spend hours detailing on.
                                There is this one washing centre near NIBM road in kondwa, if you are familiar with Sufi's opposite Nancy garden, then you know who I am talking about.
                                The guy who runs the centre is named Begh, and people call him Begh bhai.
                                Washing charges are minimal, and you also get a coating of plastic protector after your bike is cleaned and dried.
                                They ask you how you want it to be cleaned, how to spray on the radiator,etc.
                                You have to be patient to get your chance as four guys share one power nozzle jet to wash down the dirt and muck, the other cleans your bike's body, the third your wheels and rims and the fourth again sprays down the soap and wipes your bike dry.
                                They get a lot of cars and bikes from the service centres near by and are good at work.
                                I've been getting my bike washed atleast once a month out here to get the dirt out of places where my hands can't work, and the results are awesome.
                                If you guys want to get a good wash for under 60-70/- bucks, do check this guy out.
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