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Pulsar 200 NS Owners Review and Experiences

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  • Originally posted by rahuldevnath View Post
    Vineet do check it out, even i'm confused now!



    Ya, sorry for the typo. I mean Clockwise only. I would say, because you are getting phenomenal mileage, just turn the screw 1 complete round clockwise, and see the results, and post it here.
    yes need to check it out again on another bike... Mee too getting confused now... if it was only the spring, then yes compressing a spring lowers the height... Here it is compressed using the external lobes which is situated at different heights... Earlier pulsars had 5 lobes and hence 5 step adjustable... The longest lobe stiffens the suspension the most and also increases the saddle height since the length of the lobe is quite long... The length of the lobe is longer than the amount of suspension travel it reduces... Suppose the amount of suspension travel reduced by stiffening the spring at maximum is 5mm....and the length of the longest lobe which makes the spring stiffest is 10mm... Now substract that 5mm compressed length of the spring from the total lobe length(10mm), you are left with 10 minus 5 = 5mm... Now this 5mm is the increase in saddle height... Uffff...ab samjha?...
    This Tail Is Japani Tail (spell as you like)

    Comment


    • Originally posted by csajal View Post
      Since the day I got the NS, I felt that there were false neutrals specially while shifting down. Initially I thought that it's the gear box trying to set in and there's nothing wrong with the gear box (which is actually true), but then one day while having a discussion on the NS with Ken Da, I realised that it was not the gear box, it was I who was not doing things as it should have been (yet again!! )

      In the previous gen Pulsar and this is specially true with my previous Pulsar 200, the clutch operation worked -

      1) Pull in the clutch full
      2) Change the gear
      3) Then slightly release the clutch to engage.

      This kind of clutch action is specially true for most touring motorcycles, specially cruisers.

      For Sports motorcycles, be it faired or naked, the clutch action is a bit different, as in sports the need to quickly shift between gears and in such an action pulling in the clutch all the way in is not the smartest thing to do. The same applies for NS. The clutch action for the NS is -

      1) Slightly pull in the clutch, may be a couple of cm
      2) Change the gear
      3) Release the clutch to engage.

      The faster you do it the prompt is the gear action. From the day I started doing this, I never had false neutral, neither during up-shifts or down-shifts.

      So, basically it's the perception of clutch and gear I had from my previous Pulsar 200 due to which I was having some discomfort with the gearing of the NS, but what I forgot is that the NS is here to change perceptions and it's doing bloddy well
      Agreed
      Doing the same so i guess i never felt false neutral, though i faced twice till now


      Originally posted by kaydee_bangalore View Post
      But that would produce a Khat khat sound specially while downshifting i guess...
      Well anyways I will give it a try while going home today
      Yes it would produce Khat sound, that is when you get to know its been shifted. Half clutch would do.
      Later after you know that downshift is done you can again apply full clutch and downshift..
      correct me if im wrong.
      sigpicBengaluru NakedWolves

      Comment


      • Originally posted by kaydee_bangalore View Post
        But that would produce a Khat khat sound specially while downshifting i guess...
        Well anyways I will give it a try while going home today
        Well it should be a click.

        Try to notice the rpms while you down shift. It might be a case(not sure though) that when you are downshifting the engine speed is not at the level where it should be for that gear. Just check that, because I've, till now, never got that "khat kaht" feed back while down shifting.

        Originally posted by Shibadip View Post
        Thanks for the info,
        No dis-respect to u, but i wud like some seniors to support this view as well.
        Not engaging the clutch fully might wear out the clutch plate!!!
        No disrespect taken man. I'm here to learn, and even if any senior says that I'm wrong I would be happy at least I would have learnt a new thing that I'm not supposed to do and that would make me a better rider and more importantly a better owner of my steed.

        About the clutch plate, well, as long as the engine speed is matching the gear engaged and the clutch action is engaging the gear properly, things should be fine. Think about it, if clutch plates would have been at risk, the concept of quick shifter wouldn't have been there in SBKs where you are shifting up (and only up) without need to pull in the clutch. The concept of a quick shifter works because in sports machines you need to pull in the clutch very slightly to engage the gear (I hope I'm correct here)
        Twist your wrist and feel the shift!!

        My own thoughts - Throttle

        Comment


        • Originally posted by csajal View Post
          Since the day I got the NS, I felt that there were false neutrals specially while shifting down. Initially I thought that it's the gear box trying to set in and there's nothing wrong with the gear box (which is actually true), but then one day while having a discussion on the NS with Ken Da, I realised that it was not the gear box, it was I who was not doing things as it should have been (yet again!! )

          In the previous gen Pulsar and this is specially true with my previous Pulsar 200, the clutch operation worked -

          1) Pull in the clutch full
          2) Change the gear
          3) Then slightly release the clutch to engage.

          This kind of clutch action is specially true for most touring motorcycles, specially cruisers.

          For Sports motorcycles, be it faired or naked, the clutch action is a bit different, as in sports the need to quickly shift between gears and in such an action pulling in the clutch all the way in is not the smartest thing to do. The same applies for NS. The clutch action for the NS is -

          1) Slightly pull in the clutch, may be a couple of cm
          2) Change the gear
          3) Release the clutch to engage.

          The faster you do it the prompt is the gear action. From the day I started doing this, I never had false neutral, neither during up-shifts or down-shifts.

          So, basically it's the perception of clutch and gear I had from my previous Pulsar 200 due to which I was having some discomfort with the gearing of the NS, but what I forgot is that the NS is here to change perceptions and it's doing bloddy well
          thats quite a useful info... thanx for sharing it... And mee too have the same doubt as shibadip...wont it burn the clutch plates?
          This Tail Is Japani Tail (spell as you like)

          Comment


          • Originally posted by csajal View Post
            Say you are on 6th and you want to go to 2nd... if you down shift continously all the to 2nd and then release the clutch, while still being at speeds which is not for the 2nd gear, the rmps would try to shoot through the roof as the engine tries to engage to the 2nd gear and maintain the engine speed at the same time and depending on the road condition you might run the risk of either a tank slapper or the rear wheel locking up.

            If you have to do this you can do this, but make sure that the engine speed is at the required level. So, for the example I've quoted, if in 6th you were at say 6k rpms and you want to go down to 2nd, so you pull in the clutch a bit, sift down to 5-4-3 and then 2, but make sure that by the time you are ready to release the clutch at 2, the engine rpms is somewhere in the range of 3-4k rpms at max.
            Yes, i am aware of that speed stuff..... but the issue is sometimes when i am trying to downshift in single clutch pull, the gear lever becomes totally free and then to downshift more i have to let the next lower gear engage and then downshift again... have u or anybody else noticed this?

            Also other experienced members, plz throw light on pulling clutch little and changing gears.... is it advisable?
            My ride....My SUNSHINE... :)
            One Life to Live....One Life to RIDE

            Comment


            • Originally posted by Rahulbarik View Post
              i still didn't get it... When you want to increase the height, you have to make the suspension stiff...setting it on the highest point.... Whenever you lower the suspension, height will decrease and ride will become soft... Check again rahul da... I am 100% sure.... No way will a soft setting increase height....
              Agree...because even if we say that the coil is compresses a bit but then the hardest setting is 1 cm lower than then softest one , so when we change it to the hardest setting the coil is compresses a bit + a 1 cm bump in the black coloured ring or something...its difficult to explain this way...

              I hope the pics will help.

              Comment


              • Originally posted by csajal View Post
                Well it should be a click.

                Try to notice the rpms while you down shift. It might be a case(not sure though) that when you are downshifting the engine speed is not at the level where it should be for that gear. Just check that, because I've, till now, never got that "khat kaht" feed back while down shifting.
                Yeah i like the little click sound.. but that khat sound is very unpleasant.. will definitely try it today and post my experience here.
                Thanks for the info
                ATGATT! There are many wonderful riders/drivers out there who would intrude in your riding space without any notice. Be prepared. Stay Safe.

                My True Wanderers Blog Entry :

                www.truewanderers.in/travelogues/entry/144.html

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                http://http://truewanderers.in/trave...inalist/6.html

                Comment


                • Originally posted by csajal View Post

                  The clutch action for the NS is -

                  1) Slightly pull in the clutch, may be a couple of cm
                  2) Change the gear
                  3) Release the clutch to engage.

                  The faster you do it the prompt is the gear action. From the day I started doing this, I never had false neutral, neither during up-shifts or down-shifts.
                  Totally agree to this. Even I don't press the clutch fully while changing gears & in fact changing the gears by slightly pulling the clutch is faster & more reliable method of gear shifts i.e no false neutrals...I've been doing this since years & never had any issues with the clutch plates of any bike...I press the clutch fully only when I downshift upto 3 or more gears (i.e 6-1 , 6-2,6-3,5-2,5-1,etc) & never came across the "khat" sound...though sometimes I need to release the clutch a bit for the gears to get engaged but made my habit to downshift while braking...hence no need to release the clutch anymore...

                  Also I went to the SVC today to get the squeaking sound from the front brakes checked..the mechanic took my bike for a ride & after 5 mins came back & fixed it within 15 mins I guess...he said that it was because of the dirt getting stuck in the disk pads (because of the rains) which he cleaned out & did something so that the squeaking noise won't pop up ever again...

                  Also asked him regarding the chain slackness on my NS to which he said the chain will have a little slackness only when the bike's stationary...it would be totally fine while riding...
                  Last edited by nishant.sukharia; 08-29-2012, 03:29 PM.

                  Comment


                  • Originally posted by faffy View Post
                    Yes, i am aware of that speed stuff..... but the issue is sometimes when i am trying to downshift in single clutch pull, the gear lever becomes totally free and then to downshift more i have to let the next lower gear engage and then downshift again... have u or anybody else noticed this?

                    Also other experienced members, plz throw light on pulling clutch little and changing gears.... is it advisable?
                    The gear lever becoming free used to happen with me before but not now

                    Basically it's the combination of the technique and also the gear box settling down
                    Twist your wrist and feel the shift!!

                    My own thoughts - Throttle

                    Comment


                    • Originally posted by faffy View Post
                      Yes, i am aware of that speed stuff..... but the issue is sometimes when i am trying to downshift in single clutch pull, the gear lever becomes totally free and then to downshift more i have to let the next lower gear engage and then downshift again... have u or anybody else noticed this?

                      Also other experienced members, plz throw light on pulling clutch little and changing gears.... is it advisable?
                      Even i wanted to know about the Gear shifting properly...
                      what i do normally is apply full clutch and change the gear.

                      Now consider a scenario where i had to apply a sudden break when i am in 5th gear. So i applied and changed the gear to 4th. now bike is in 0 speed. i want to go forward then i need to apply clutch and change the gear to 3rd , leave half clutch(till that Khat sound comes) then again pull the clutch and change to 2nd, leave half clutch(till again i hear a Khat sound) then pull the clutch fully change to 1st gear n go...

                      and even in high speed and u wanna downshift the gear we have to do this way right?
                      sigpicBengaluru NakedWolves

                      Comment


                      • Originally posted by nishant.sukharia View Post
                        Agree...because even if we say that the coil is compresses a bit but then the hardest setting is 1 cm lower than then softest one , so when we change it to the hardest setting the coil is compresses a bit a 1 cm bump in the black coloured ring or something...its difficult to explain this way...

                        I hope the pics will help.
                        ya ya this one thats why i mentioned that 10mm minus 5mm= 5mm part to make it clear.... Its hard to explain... Its not that easy as it looks to be... There are the lot of things involved... its not like a tic-tac ball pen spring...
                        This Tail Is Japani Tail (spell as you like)

                        Comment


                        • Originally posted by sayank10 View Post
                          ^^^stiffest setting will always have more pre-load hence less saddle height.
                          the gas in the canister dampens the force and restrict the rebound of energy.
                          Precisely!

                          Originally posted by csajal View Post
                          Since the day I got the NS, I felt that there were false neutrals specially while shifting down. Initially I thought that it's the gear box trying to set in and there's nothing wrong with the gear box (which is actually true), but then one day while having a discussion on the NS with Ken Da, I realised that it was not the gear box, it was I who was not doing things as it should have been (yet again!! )

                          In the previous gen Pulsar and this is specially true with my previous Pulsar 200, the clutch operation worked -

                          1) Pull in the clutch full
                          2) Change the gear
                          3) Then slightly release the clutch to engage.

                          This kind of clutch action is specially true for most touring motorcycles, specially cruisers.

                          For Sports motorcycles, be it faired or naked, the clutch action is a bit different, as in sports the need to quickly shift between gears and in such an action pulling in the clutch all the way in is not the smartest thing to do. The same applies for NS. The clutch action for the NS is -

                          1) Slightly pull in the clutch, may be a couple of cm
                          2) Change the gear
                          3) Release the clutch to engage.

                          The faster you do it the prompt is the gear action. From the day I started doing this, I never had false neutral, neither during up-shifts or down-shifts.

                          So, basically it's the perception of clutch and gear I had from my previous Pulsar 200 due to which I was having some discomfort with the gearing of the NS, but what I forgot is that the NS is here to change perceptions and it's doing bloddy well
                          This is interesting. Never knew, but this should not spoil the clutch.
                          Been There, Done That; Better!

                          Comment


                          • Originally posted by Sachin Blore View Post
                            Even i wanted to know about the Gear shifting properly...
                            what i do normally is apply full clutch and change the gear.

                            Now consider a scenario where i had to apply a sudden break when i am in 5th gear. So i applied and changed the gear to 4th. now bike is in 0 speed. i want to go forward then i need to apply clutch and change the gear to 3rd , leave half clutch(till that Khat sound comes) then again pull the clutch and change to 2nd, leave half clutch(till again i hear a Khat sound) then pull the clutch fully change to 1st gear n go...

                            and even in high speed and u wanna downshift the gear we have to do this way right?
                            Yups... that's what I do... but seriously... that khat thing should not be there... it should be smooth clicks
                            Twist your wrist and feel the shift!!

                            My own thoughts - Throttle

                            Comment


                            • Originally posted by rahuldevnath View Post
                              Vineet do check it out, even i'm confused now!



                              Ya, sorry for the typo. I mean Clockwise only. I would say, because you are getting phenomenal mileage, just turn the screw 1 complete round clockwise, and see the results, and post it here.
                              Ya bro... I will.

                              So don't need to take it SVC right.? And how could I access it with a screw driver? It is located in a weird location. Behind the frame
                              sigpic
                              For a true motorcyclist, the straight portions of the roads exist just to take him from one turn to the next!
                              USED IN PAST: Ct100, Victor, Xcd 135
                              CURRENT: PULSAR 200 NS
                              FUTURE
                              : No plan
                              DREAM BIKES
                              : Ducati multistrada, Yamaha R6, KTM Super Duke

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                              Comment


                              • Originally posted by nishant.sukharia View Post
                                Agree...because even if we say that the coil is compresses a bit but then the hardest setting is 1 cm lower than then softest one , so when we change it to the hardest setting the coil is compresses a bit + a 1 cm bump in the black coloured ring or something...its difficult to explain this way...

                                I hope the pics will help.
                                That 1cm is the "softest" setting. By default the bike come on 2nd softest setting. On the left where only 1 groove is left is the SOFTEST setting. As we towards the harder settings, the suspension get's compresses, and bascially lowers the height.
                                Been There, Done That; Better!

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