okay bro leave it... increase the saddle height of your bike at the svc and check for yourself.... i know i am right... When you are compressing the spring, you are compressing the gas and hydraulics inside along with the spring... The spring is basically the support mechanism.... Its the gas canister and hydraulic which provides damping... When you compress gas and oil it produces a lot of energy and resistance... Now since the pressure of the gas forces the spring outwards, and the spring is compressed from outside, the spring dont have much travel and stays almost at the save level making the suspension stiff... Dont think only about the spring, think about the entire mechanism... Just try it once on you bike and ride it a few kms over bumps...you will know the truth... hope i was able to put it correctly...
@rahuldevnath: true there is a lot of confusion regarding springs... Think we need a different thread now

Okay will check it out .

quick in the sense? usually when doing some spirited riding i rev the bike in each gear upto 7-8 rpm and then change gears...
not riding it like this from begining.... for first 1000kms followed bajaj run-in and post 1000 kms have been riding a mix of what i mentioned in previous post... ODO currently is approx 1650kms... bike has become lil harsh, may be coz of dtsi oil

hehe...

Too Much Problems being reported at Service

Hi,

I went to the service and I found, 4 NS lying in the bay area to get corrected. The service guys told that they are getting a lot of complaints for the NS. One had coolant leakage, had starting problem, one NS the gear was stuck.

Even my NS @ 2200 on ODO, I have faced a lot more problems.

1. Silencer lost the paint. Changed
2. Saree guard had rust. Changed
3. Even one of the spark plugs have got rust. Many of the bolts are catching rust.
4. Seat Cover came out, so seat was changed.
5. Horn Stopped working, got rectified.
7. The pass light is getting stuck when pressed. I have to manually make it right by releasing it. (Found today itself)
6. Gears have become hard, false neutrals (between 1 - N - 2 gear switch) are a often case. Also, while downshifting from 6 gear to 4, 3 or 2, I even need to leave clutch to get the gears placed at a particular gear. They said, it will be rectified at next service. Till then, I have to deal with it. They don't want to address the gear issue anyway.

Now, this is what we call premium bike. Than I'm very sorry to say.
After spending approx 1 Lakh all I have to do is visit Service station again and again to get things in order. This was even said by the service guy, that too many NS owners are visiting the bay for some thing or the other which you don't expect from the premium bike. Bajaj needs to take care of lot of things.

Hmm... mine is already lean. So, I must turn clockwise na bro? From you picture, clockwise will make it richer and anti-clockwise to make leaner.

whoa! Thats a lot of problems. Specially rusting... Send a mail to bajaj and seek replacement of the rusted bolts, saree guard and other faulty parts... After paying 1 lakh, we need better quality

false neutrals are there once a while....
and while downshifting whats the issue? i dint get it... does the lever becomes totally free and then ul have to let the next lower gear engage and then again downshift...??? coz i have expereinced this once a while... speciallly when u need to do fast downshifting from 6-5-4-3...

Vineet do check it out, even i'm confused now!

Ya, sorry for the typo. I mean Clockwise only. I would say, because you are getting phenomenal mileage, just turn the screw 1 complete round clockwise, and see the results, and post it here.

^^^stiffest setting will always have more pre-load hence less saddle height.
the gas in the canister dampens the force and restrict the rebound of energy.

about gear shifting on NS and false neutrals

Since the day I got the NS, I felt that there were false neutrals specially while shifting down. Initially I thought that it's the gear box trying to set in and there's nothing wrong with the gear box (which is actually true), but then one day while having a discussion on the NS with Ken Da, I realised that it was not the gear box, it was I who was not doing things as it should have been (yet again!! )

In the previous gen Pulsar and this is specially true with my previous Pulsar 200, the clutch operation worked -

1) Pull in the clutch full
2) Change the gear
3) Then slightly release the clutch to engage.

This kind of clutch action is specially true for most touring motorcycles, specially cruisers.

For Sports motorcycles, be it faired or naked, the clutch action is a bit different, as in sports the need to quickly shift between gears and in such an action pulling in the clutch all the way in is not the smartest thing to do. The same applies for NS. The clutch action for the NS is -

1) Slightly pull in the clutch, may be a couple of cm
2) Change the gear
3) Release the clutch to engage.

The faster you do it the prompt is the gear action. From the day I started doing this, I never had false neutral, neither during up-shifts or down-shifts.

So, basically it's the perception of clutch and gear I had from my previous Pulsar 200 due to which I was having some discomfort with the gearing of the NS, but what I forgot is that the NS is here to change perceptions and it's doing bloddy well

thanks for the info...let me try this out....
but what about downshifting continuosly ...after each shift should i allow the next lower gear to get engaged??? can't i downshift continuosly like 6-5-4 with single cluth pull( like in emergency cases when u need to do)????

But that would produce a Khat khat sound specially while downshifting i guess...
Well anyways I will give it a try while going home today

Thanks for the info,
No dis-respect to u, but i wud like some seniors to support this view as well.
Not engaging the clutch fully might wear out the clutch plate!!!

Say you are on 6th and you want to go to 2nd... if you down shift continously all the to 2nd and then release the clutch, while still being at speeds which is not for the 2nd gear, the rmps would try to shoot through the roof as the engine tries to engage to the 2nd gear and maintain the engine speed at the same time and depending on the road condition you might run the risk of either a tank slapper or the rear wheel locking up.

If you have to do this you can do this, but make sure that the engine speed is at the required level. So, for the example I've quoted, if in 6th you were at say 6k rpms and you want to go down to 2nd, so you pull in the clutch a bit, sift down to 5-4-3 and then 2, but make sure that by the time you are ready to release the clutch at 2, the engine rpms is somewhere in the range of 3-4k rpms at max.