Sure bud!
I'll post them by tomorrow...




Yes,yes!
What you are talking about is lubing the chain rollers and chain links from the inside,which is very much true.
What I was talking about is the lubing of the chain links on either side(one side facing the rear disc,and the other side facing away from the rear disc),this is because this is the place where the O-rings of our chain are.
What the service center guys do is lubricate just one side of the chain link,thus lubricating the O-rings on ONE side only.

Got the center stand installed yesterday.Its really helpful in maintaining the bike.Total charges:Rs.517(for stand)+Rs.80(stand fitting+clutch adjustment+tuning+tightening of all parts).Seems pretty reasonable.

@all seniors:replaced the engine oil to Total Quartz 3000 20W50 which happens to be a car engine oil and I have heard that car engine oil are very harmful for bikes.Is it so??And what should I do now,can't throw off this oil and buy another one as my wallet is totally empty.Another problem is that the chain of my bike is creating a lot of noise like 'krrrrr' and probably its coming from the 'O'-ring.When I went to tighten the chain the local mechanic had said this is common but the sound is quite loud and seems as though the chain will come off totally.Thanks in advance.

I don't have a 200NS, but the problem which I am facing in my bike is exactly the same as the ones which the NS owners were facing. So I thought that I'll ask about it there itself.Whenever I start my bike in the morning for the 1st time, the engine idles at a low 1k rpm. After riding for about 1 hour i.e when the engine gets sufficiently hot, then idling rpm goes upto 2-2.2k rpm. Also at that time, when I blip the throttle, the revvs rise up but comes down very slowly. And plus my bike sounds kind of harsh at higher rpms. It's like, the engine refuses to go at higher rpms and even I dont feel like revving it high due to that harshness. Am I running on a very rich mixture? If yes then which screw on the carb has to be adjusted? My bike has a Mikuni BS 29mm CV type carburetor.

Unless u want a very long running in period and bad gear shifts and if u want to screw up piston ring seating with the cylinder wall you can continue with that oil
Car oils have friction reducers and u don't want that in a bike. And never in a new bike
Get q cheap 20w50 bike oil and fill asap.
Wow really your bike has extreme behaviour.
Maybe u are used to rich tuning that perfect tuning doesn't suit u.
But I am enjoying the 1.6% tune. However I haven't done any high speed runs so u might be correct in liking a rich tune.
Btw 1.7 is not lean.

45-48 is acceptable but 68!!!!! Damn....even the 135ls would shiver to give at the speed u ride.

U sure that petrol pump wasn't in q mood to donate fuel???

U should probably ask in the help section. There is definitely a tuning problem. Get carb cleaned and choke adjustment done. Btw which bike??

I feel that I shouldn't reveal my bike's name coz then it would be off topic and mods would delete my post. Ive read the old posts of this thread. Almost all NS owners were facing the same carb problem which I am facing right now. And most of them even got it rectified by turning the screw on the right side I guess..dont remeber it correctly..and it was clockwise for rich mixture and anti-clockwise for leaner mixture, right? Please help.

well i guess yours is rtr180... Anyways you are running very lean... Make it richer....

Nobody Solved my Queries!

well this is the only reason i never revealed the mileage figure in xbhp earlier.... I went 136 kms in exactly two litres fuel on 100% highway.... What i observed is it gives better mileage at night time with cool weather....engine also runs smoother.... Btw i used to get 35-37kmpl on city with 4% co.... Got that insane figure at night time.... Anyways i know what i got and am happy for it... No point discussing.... Just as a matter of fact, i got 35 in city with 4%co and got the same mileage with 1.7%co.... moreover my bike ran much much smoother with 4% and more power low down on the rev range.... So when i am getting same mileage with lower power at 1.7% why should i stick to it...? Now my bike does get heated up sometimes and become harsh but that was never the case with my earlier tuning....bike now refuses to start at morning and dies off...it didn't happen earlier... Otherwise my engine is running awesum.. No offence but i just shared my experience...no intention of spamming the thread...

since you will be opting for insurance, get all damaged parts checked and replaced... But less likely that rear rim and disc will be bent... Btw engine wont have much impact.... Dont worry

Theoretically, this fact can be vouched for. As we go at a constant speed, little variations aren't the concern, straight line, minimal stoppage, it's possible to achieve a better mileage after tuning for rich in the NS or all bikes here with a 4 valve engine. U see, the intake capacity & pressure has been increased due to these extra 2 valves. So if u do opt for a richer mixture, U might be getting a really feasible & better ratio for ur bike than u expect. But yeah, this isn't the case in city riding. Too lean & too rich will only affect the engine in a negative way for city rides in long run. But that's all theory.
But even though, it's recommended to carefully understand all kinda effects here before u can opt the best settings for ur bike.
Besides, I think almost everyone here welcomes each other's experiences. That's how we share & learn.

Most folks out here keeps talking about center stand only for lubing & maintenance. I agree there are ways for lubrication and cleaning without the center stand but what about the below scenarios
1. While Touring, you can't carry the paddock, nor you carry the car jack everywhere, right?.... In this case how will you fix a puncture?? detecting & fixing one on the rear would still be possible but detecting a puncture on the front wheel??? Beware local puncture/repair shops will not have paddocks

2. Punctures In the city --> Yes. Now this is easy since the bike has tubeless tyres you can fill in air go home use alternate means and use the puncture kit and fix it.. But how many out here does a DIY???

All this becomes easier with the center stand

3. Now this one is the main question that comes to my head... How would you change the wheels (specially front ones) at the current ones wear out???
For mass users out here the center stand makes sense..

Again folks who are keen on DIY would not need it and can find out ways and jugaad and alternatives but how many do that???

I am just pointing these out just that folks out here know what are the uses of the center stand on the bike apart from lubrication.

Beg or Borrow or STEAL some mullah and change the oil ASAP... The clutch plates on the car and a bike are totally different a car engine oil will **** you bike big time... To save some 400 bucks you'll end up spending 10X the amount later..

@Others: Kindly correct me if I am wrong here

So how many turns did you do? And in which direction to achieve a 4% CO?

thats exactly what i wanted to say from day 1 i got my bike, i've been fiddling with the tuning almost every other day.... There is mot much difference in mileage with a richer mix...moreover it runs better.... If i get 50kmpl on highway with 4%co then its more than i can ask for.... and lastly mileage does depend on riding style and tyre pressure.... I run 28 front, 35rear(both tyres changed to zapper fx and revz-s respectively) and i shift at 3k for the first 3 gears and 3.2-3.3k for the remaining when i am in a mood to get mileage.... It also depends on throttle modulation, clutch usage and braking.... I am happy with anything close to 40kmpl

well i dont calculate the number of turns coz i cant twist the fuel screw at one go...since the screwdriver remains tilted it always slips.... As i told earlier i keep on making it richer from lean until i get a good spike at 7k with a smooth engine and smooth power delivery from low revs.... Then keeping the fuel screw at the same spop, increase the idle to 4k and then listen to the sound of the engine and exhaust beats and again fiddle with the fuel screw just by fractions.... Then reduce to idle to 1.4k... If i am not satisfied, i repeat it... See i am no pro at tuning but i do get a good mix with smooth engine... I am not encouraging others to try it though.... Tuning without knowledge is always a risk factor....