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**Nithyan.S** · 01-05-2013, 08:59 PM

I've reached 2100 kms in the odo.
My problem is that I hear some kind of "metallic" sound from below( towards the rear tire),when i run over any gutter or bumps.Its definitely not the tool kit,
because I don't keep any. I took it to the service center yesterday and they said it might be due to the chain getting loose.I got it tightened(sprayed too).
There is some change now,but even today I heard some "metallic-clang" sound once when the road was miserable.

Any idea,what it is? If its indeed due to the chain getting loose,then how many kms should I run to get it tightened every time ?

PS : I'm not talking about any prolonged vibrating sounds...its only when the bike jumps over these bumps and all,this sound comes.

**mayank.travadi** · 01-05-2013, 09:31 PM

Originally posted by broken87 View Post

Yes I thought so, lean mixture must be it. I just now did as you said.. however turning the screw anti clockwise lowers the idle RPM ? If I turn it more towards anti clock direction the engine nearly shuts off. doing the Opposite (clockwise/ the way we tighten screws) it increases the idle RPM... So I turned it clockwise & the idle RPM now stands at 1.7/8.. previously 1.5/6. I will notify if I feel this has solved the flat spot issue.. need to ride more to find it out.
did all this after riding the bike for 10kms & making sure the engine was warmed up. btw what should be the appropriate idle RPM to have a rich mixture ?
just looking for knowledge lol

Buddy what u turned seems t be he idle screw and not the AFR screw...which screw u turned? the one visible outside u can easily access or the one burried deep inside on the right hand side of the bike a small bronze colored one?

u can set it again at 1.5/1.6 and turn the bronze screw anti cock wise half a turn...or if u want perfect steps for tuning here they are

Increase idle to about 2-2.5K rpm
turn the AFR screw clockwise till the engine is just about to die..
then turn anti clockwise 1/4th turn at a time and u will see rpm increase butnot stable...keep turning till u see the rpm needle reaching its most stable position which will be the max rpm for what u set at that time...reduce to 1.45-4.5k rpm...

enjoy..u have almost the perfect tune now

**mayank.travadi** · 01-05-2013, 09:33 PM

Originally posted by Nithyan.S View Post

I've reached 2100 kms in the odo.
My problem is that I hear some kind of "metallic" sound from below( towards the rear tire),when i run over any gutter or bumps.Its definitely not the tool kit,
because I don't keep any. I took it to the service center yesterday and they said it might be due to the chain getting loose.I got it tightened(sprayed too).
There is some change now,but even today I heard some "metallic-clang" sound once when the road was miserable.

Any idea,what it is? If its indeed due to the chain getting loose,then how many kms should I run to get it tightened every time ?

PS : I'm not talking about any prolonged vibrating sounds...its only when the bike jumps over these bumps and all,this sound comes.

do u have something like helmet lock or anything at the rear of the bike..probably at he number plate holder? that cud be making noise when u go over a pothole

**Arun Patrick** · 01-05-2013, 10:38 PM

Guys i am new to this thread, i am having a problem with my bike. On acceleration , there is a flat spot between 3.5k-4k.. But it gets really bad 5.5k-7k rpm at higher gears(5th and 6th)..
Its like the bike struggles to accelerate and i need to rip it fully to cross tat point. Is there any way i can avert this glitch???

**broken87** · 01-05-2013, 11:45 PM

Originally posted by mayank.travadi View Post

Buddy what u turned seems t be he idle screw and not the AFR screw...which screw u turned? the one visible outside u can easily access or the one burried deep inside on the right hand side of the bike a small bronze colored one?

u can set it again at 1.5/1.6 and turn the bronze screw anti cock wise half a turn...or if u want perfect steps for tuning here they are

Increase idle to about 2-2.5K rpm
turn the AFR screw clockwise till the engine is just about to die..
then turn anti clockwise 1/4th turn at a time and u will see rpm increase butnot stable...keep turning till u see the rpm needle reaching its most stable position which will be the max rpm for what u set at that time...reduce to 1.45-4.5k rpm...

enjoy..u have almost the perfect tune now

Oh.. lol I might've turned the idle screw. The one clearly visible & accessible on RHS of the bike (from rider's position), shown in the pic below.

I will check for the AFR screw tomorrow & carefully follow your steps, thanks for the help bro.
& yes I forgot to mention.. my RPM needle isn't stable, it keeps jumping slightly. I guess this is a sign of running Lean mix..

btw, I'm nearly 1900 kms on ODO now & I plan to switch to Motul Semi Synthetic at 2000kms.. Should I give it a try & do it myself ? or Get it done at SVC if they allow.

**nishant.sukharia** · 01-06-2013, 02:55 AM

Originally posted by sara2868 View Post

1, im planning to install Air Filter in 200 NS , will it be any use ? and if so kindly suggest me an air filter with the model numbers please
2, i find the seats are hard, so any one from chennai could suggest me the shop to change the seat ?
3, which is the best OIL for 200 ns ? i hear motul 7100 ( i guess ) will be good

Please suggest me

1. It'll increase the air flow thereby providing more oxygen for combustion so it would increase the power output by a small figure.The K&N Air filter for both the Pulsar 200 NS & Duke 125,200 is the same & the model no. is KT-1211.

Hit this
KT-1211 - K&N Replacement Filters, Replacement Air Filter direct from K&N

If anyone comes to know about its price then please post it...

**pravin.murthy** · 01-06-2013, 03:25 AM

The new tyres that I installed today.... Front - MRF Nylogrip Zapper S - 100/80 (R15 V1's rear tyre); Rear - MRF RevZ-S - 130/70 (R15 V2's rear tyre)

**nishant.sukharia** · 01-06-2013, 03:38 AM

Originally posted by pravin.murthy View Post

[ATTACH=CONFIG]89759[/ATTACH]

The new tyres that I installed today.... Front - MRF Nylogrip Zapper S - 100/80 (R15 V1's rear tyre); Rear - MRF RevZ-S - 130/70 (R15 V2's rear tyre)

I saw the first pic & I knew something was wrong...
Why did you switched the front tyre with a rear tyre of R15 V1 yaar !!!!
Its important to have a central groove on the front tyre...just the specs of the tyres are not important !!!

Btw , I'd suggest everyone that when you click a picture of the bike don't use flash if not necessary...
Unnecessary use of flash spoils the picture actually...makes it difficult to see the details due to reflections...

**Nithyan.S** · 01-06-2013, 10:34 AM

Originally posted by mayank.travadi View Post

do u have something like helmet lock or anything at the rear of the bike..probably at he number plate holder? that cud be making noise when u go over a pothole

NO...no helmet locks..I even doubted the sari guard. But they are not loose when I checked. Guess I should visit the SVC again...!!

**ankur2smart** · 01-06-2013, 11:22 AM

Originally posted by pravin.murthy View Post

[ATTACH=CONFIG]89760[/ATTACH]

The new tyres that I installed today.... Front - MRF Nylogrip Zapper S - 100/80 (R15 V1's rear tyre); Rear - MRF RevZ-S - 130/70 (R15 V2's rear tyre)

Is it ok to switch your front tyre from other bike's rear tyre

Dude secondly why did you remove the rear tyre hugger ??

**Aditya N Bharadwaj** · 01-06-2013, 02:37 PM

Originally posted by nishant.sukharia View Post

Its important to have a central groove on the front tyre...

But why? What would happen without it?

**nishant.sukharia** · 01-06-2013, 03:23 PM

Originally posted by Aditya N Bharadwaj View Post

But why? What would happen without it?

Its necessary for straight line stability...plus a front tyre has a higher curvature than a rear tyre of same specifications...i.e a 100/70 front tyre would look thinner than a 100/70 rear tyre....this is important for agility & more contact while cornering...the tyres used for professional racing on the other hand don't need any grooves cuz they are super soft compound & aren't intended to last long...
I'm not an expert on tyres but as per my knowledge its not a good idea to switch the front tyre with a rear tyre anyday...that's why we have a dedicated front & rear tyre in the market...

**myth2104** · 01-06-2013, 04:51 PM

Originally posted by nishant.sukharia View Post

1. It'll increase the air flow thereby providing more oxygen for combustion so it would increase the power output by a small figure.The K&N Air filter for both the Pulsar 200 NS & Duke 125,200 is the same & the model no. is KT-1211.

Hit this
KT-1211 - K&N Replacement Filters, Replacement Air Filter direct from K&N

If anyone comes to know about its price then please post it...

More power output ...agreed, but the K&N filter lets more air flow and hence provides less filtration resulting in dust elements entering the area. Racing bikes use such filters because the engine opened up every now and then but the street bikes' engines are rarely opened to clean. So the foreign elements stay inside the engine.

Originally posted by nishant.sukharia View Post

Its necessary for straight line stability...plus a front tyre has a higher curvature than a rear tyre of same specifications...i.e a 100/70 front tyre would look thinner than a 100/70 rear tyre....this is important for agility & more contact while cornering...the tyres used for professional racing on the other hand don't need any grooves cuz they are super soft compound & aren't intended to last long...
I'm not an expert on tyres but as per my knowledge its not a good idea to switch the front tyre with a rear tyre anyday...that's why we have a dedicated front & rear tyre in the market...

Exactly...the center tread and the profile together better grip and stability while cornering. I would still ask this guy to revert back to the stock Eurogrip.

**pravin.murthy** · 01-06-2013, 05:38 PM

Originally posted by nishant.sukharia View Post

I saw the first pic & I knew something was wrong...
Why did you switched the front tyre with a rear tyre of R15 V1 yaar !!!!
Its important to have a central groove on the front tyre...just the specs of the tyres are not important !!!

Btw , I'd suggest everyone that when you click a picture of the bike don't use flash if not necessary...
Unnecessary use of flash spoils the picture actually...makes it difficult to see the details due to reflections...

Tyre specs are the same so I havent tried to change it and thats not my intention too....

The R15's rear tyres (both old and new) are arguably the grippiest tyres ever on an Indian motorcycle till today as per the experts across the country and hence the change...

If youve noticed some of the bigger bikes across the world, most of them dont have the central groove that youre speaking about...

I shall keep the flash part in mind while clicking the pics next time around...

**pravin.murthy** · 01-06-2013, 05:39 PM

Originally posted by myth2104 View Post

More power output ...agreed, but the K&N filter lets more air flow and hence provides less filtration resulting in dust elements entering the area. Racing bikes use such filters because the engine opened up every now and then but the street bikes' engines are rarely opened to clean. So the foreign elements stay inside the engine.

Exactly...the center tread and the profile together better grip and stability while cornering. I would still ask this guy to revert back to the stock Eurogrip.

Please explain how does the center tread help in cornering...

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