The 2013 manufactured model that I have does have better plastic quality on the fuel knob and seems to run quieter than last year's model. 2500 idle rpm after a ride(hard or otherwise),is anomalous. The maximum rpm at idle (engine hot) should be around 1600. Minimum at engine hot should be around 1400-ish. The case you mentioned must have had it's idle rpm screw fudged up or accelerator wire wound up too taut.

i havent ridden the 2012 ns so i cant say much
but the bike is smoother, there are slight vibrations around 4rpm, i havent gone more than that since its still in run in, short burst to 5-6rpm
the horn is okay i feel, i dont know what was the problem in the 2012 model en there is a new silver covering near the silencer which the older models dint have.
bike is the best vfm i must say, while shifting at 4rpm i reach 60 very soon, acceleration is spot on.
bike is a bit heavy, so it takes little strength to turn or something while removing from parking.
rest all you have read in this thread. i say book it with out thinking.

and yeah i got an ls2 helmet finally, will post pics later.
bike does heat up in traffic and completed 160 kms since yesterday evening :P

• I bought the bike in december, and let me inform you every bike may that be the CBR or hero honda has a few unresolved issues like vibes and all, but with this bike let me tell you these issues are easily ignored with the fun you have with this bike
• The only issues I've faced till now are vibes between 4k-5k rpm which reduced once I poured in motul and the visor vib noise which is also solvable if you tighten the screws and put in something to dampen the vibes. Other than that it does have a larger turning radius but it's not something that will get you into problems,I ride the bike daily to college in peak hour mumbai traffic and I'm fine with it.
• The mileage I have been getting is in the range of 40-44, so unless you don't rip your bike this is what you'll get too .
• I upgraded from a Honda Twister and believe me this bike does 80-90 while it humming peacefully without vibes.
• My bike ideals at 1.5-1.7rpm. After hard ripping it might ideal a bit on the higher scale but it comes down quick enough and idealing is something you can adjust so there's no issues with that

well i ride in "not so" peak traffic in mumbai and get 38-39 always..how do u manage 40-44 in city?

Maybe because it's always on the highway??? And some habits like switching the engine off at signals shifting at proper rpms... 6k is what I usually shift at. Try making your AFR mixture a bit leaner

Hello and Welcome kaziranga to the 200NS forum. I have purchased this bike in Feb 2013 and just like you before buying the bike I went through this thread carefully. Rather I will say, I read almost all the post of first 300 pages in 2 weeks and some of the latest posts before buying the bike. So far I have clocked around 1200 KM and did a long journey of 300 KM in a day. So did I face any issues? Yes I did! a major one on day 2 of bike and that too because of fault electronic component. Which drained out my entire battery in 14 minutes! and my bike refused to stop the cooling fan!! Have I lost the faith in bike? Not at all!!! Bajaj actually picked up bike from the place where it halted and next day returned me my bike with free replacement of the component. After that on my first servicing (500 KM) I did inform about high idling issue which they fixed. Now my bike is running butter smooth. Am I happy? very well. Infact I just love this bike and I look for reasons to ride this bike. Now I see 3 more people in my society have purchased this bike. If you read the forum you can list down the known issues and decide if you can compromise with those of not. On my long run I received 46 KM/L fuel efficiency and during my first 500 KM i received 43 KM/L fuel efficiency. Since I am still in runin period I have not taken my bike beyond 5K RPM.

Hello friends,
I have an on going issue. It goes once the service is done and returns later on. I really don't know how to put it in word. Anyway, here it is.
When I start off and shift up and say, the bike is going in 3rd gear and engine rpm is 3500 and I hold it there. The engine is not steady, it kind of rises and falls. However, the rpm is steady, it does not rise and fall. No rise and fall while raising the engine while in neutral. Is this an engine problem or any issue with gears and transmission.

I completed my run in period yesterday. No major issues with the bike. However, my engine has started heating up a lot after the first service at 500 kms.

I have to ride almost 5 to 8 kms in peak traffic, and the radiator switches on almost everyday. I can feel the heat near my legs. The part of perimeter frame near knee gets too hot to touch.

The pick is bad. I feel there is no power in the lower gears. The throttle has a very scratchy feel, and I have to rev the bike a lot at lower speeds.

I rode my bike for 300 kms ride on highways yesterday, the engine was just barely warm. I checked the temperature after riding for 80 kms, it was little warm and nowhere close to how hot it gets after my daily ride.

I have been reading older posts here and few experienced members has suggested tuning the AFR screw. It looks like my bike is running on a lean mixture. I do see contradicting posts about AFR. Earlier posts say clockwise is richer, and a few pages later, its the other way.

Which way and how much do I turn my AFR screw to stop the overheating and get better pickup? Do I have to heat up the engine before tuning it? Any other suggestions for this problem?

Can't comment on the scratchy feel of the throttle. Truth be said,I have never heard that term associated with throttle response. And don't worry about the heat and the radiator fan switching on in daily traffic. It's summer and during the daily runs in city streets,adequate ventilation won't be available for the engine. Hence,the fan switches on. As you said yourself,during the 300 km run on the highway,you must have been maintaining sufficiently high speeds for the air flow to cool the cooling jacket and therefore,less heating up of the frame.
The AFR screw shouldn't be meddled with without some working knowledge of how it works. I tried it on my older bike which promptly started to cough and splutter on me during riding. Just go to the svc and ask them to set the CO setting in between 2-2.5%. That's optimal for the NS. However if you want to screw around (punpunpun ) ,then counterclockwise on the NS runs richer and lean setting is vice versa. The pickup could also be vitiated due to engine oil used,clutch/accelerator issue. Cheers.

I rarely ride on highway.my setting is a slightly leaner than ideal. and i always shift at 3.8-4k rpm.and yes engine is always shut at signals...even if its for 15 seconds. looks like shifting at higher rpm gives better FE :P

Well, a pretty complicated issue and I don't understand the basic cause too.. Why don't you try cleaning the carb and fuel pipes, adjusting the clutch tension and accelerator? Or on a random thought, is it the clutch plate getting engaged on it's on? It can cause the variation, and it also do not show up when in neutral as in your case.

I've seen this issue and the issue with this has to do with carburettor setup. If the mixture is lean, this can be the problem. Get it retuned. When you accelerate and close the throttle, the engine doesn't come immediately down, instead raises rasies and then slowly comes down.

The carb is the culprit, it needs to be tuned precisely.

Cheers!
VJ

Yes, it's because of the carb tuning. But I felt even with good tuning the engine is never steady in all RPMs. It may be feel you're doing well by keeping NS' engine between 3000-4000rpm.. but I've felt NS is meant to be ridden over 4k-5k rpm. Still I never feel a steady ride in lower gears.. like 3rd gear & cruising at 5.5k rpm.. engine sounds sweet though the fueling ? or something just isn't precise. I'm guessing this isn't the case with Fuel Injected bikes ? Like I also drive an i10 and it's engine feels so steady no matter how I drive, I know it's a car but the Fuel Injection system really has some big advantages ?

What is flush oil? 2nd service next week

99% of the time the squeak is caused by the disc pad. Try changing that or swap to check from another bike if possible


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