SVS are always a pain in the arse, can't blame them, lots of to-do bikes. But float issue is a common. The thing about the float is a stuck float will either cause the engine to stall, misfire. The reason one of the memeber (above) a few post had his bike misbehaving when accelerating is the stuck float which is not letting the gasoline at the correct throttle timing. Get it checked or replaced.

Cheers!
VJ

I haven't had a case of the engine stalling/backfiring though. And I hope it does not. Anyway,is it a time consuming process? Because with my entrances approaching fast,I cannot spare more than a couple of hours at most at the SVC. If it is,I guess I'll just have to wait till the second servicing. Thanks for the help.

Noob questions coming up...
1. What is meant by PUC, which was discussed a few posts back?
2. Why do I find some kind of brown dirt on the cap of the fuel tank? I'm sure it's not rust. There was the exact same dirt in small traces on the fuel dispenser at the shell station I go to everytime.

PUC - Pollution under control certificate.

It doesn't take much time. Just make sure you get the bike checked after they've redone the carb. Test drive, and do rev the engine and don't leave anything to changes, because initially they'd look fine, but when revving hard, the problem surfaces.

Do keep us posted.

Cheers!
VJ

I have now completed 10,000 kms in 7 months of ownership of my beloved NS. So here goes a long-term ownership review. I'll try to keep it as short and honest as possible.

First and foremost, the engine:
1. Working perfectly, very throaty above 7k rpms.
2. Run-in was completed with a mix of sane riding and a few short bursts upto 7-8k rpms. As a result the engine is pretty peppy.
3. Doesn't heat up as much as other NSs I've observed, and this AFAIK is thanks to the Motul 300V I use.
4. Bad low end torque which makes riding bumper-to-bumper a bit tiring at the end of it, but it's the characteristic of all oversquare engines. I've grown to live with it.
5. I've hit a top speed of 153 km/h speedo-indicated on a windless day and kept it going at that speed for just 2 minutes. Frankly, this gem of an engine deserves a fairing to get up there quicker and stay there with ease. The bike was really unsettled at those speeds. As far as touring is concerned, the bike behaves well and gives acceptable F.E at constant 90-100 km/h.
5. The only issue I faced was the tappet noise, which the SVC mechanics couldn't solve and also which mysteriously disappeared at around 6500 kms on the odo.

Fuel efficiency:
1. City: I've gotten a minimum of 37 km/l for my riding style - I usually keep the revs at 5-6k. There was this one occasion where I redlined for a full day and I got 22 km/l.
2. Highway: 40 km/l at constant 100 km/h and 45+ km/l at 75-90 km/h.

Vibrations:
1. Though NS was built with an intention to make it smooth, I choose to differ. I've undertightened many bolts on the headlight and the rest of the body which makes it hum due to resonance at particular rpms.
2. Though Bajaj claims it to be super smooth, it actually isn't. For those who aren't a fan of handlebar and console vibes, the bike is bound to let them down at 4-6k rpms. But it's the closest Bajaj have gotten to getting rid of irritating vibes. The 220's vibes, compared to NS's are barbaric.

Handling:
1. I would have been super satisfied with slicker tyres. The Eurogrips are a big let down (for me). Anyway, they are nearing their end and I'm saving up for MRFs.
2. I like corner-carving with NS much more than duke, though I find duke much lighter and easier to ride, thanks to the perimeter frame.
3. I did NOT like the weights given on the rims of both wheels. They make the bike sway to the left and that's left me subconsciously adjusting my riding stance to keep the bike straight. Any solutions?

Mishaps:
1. Fell for the first time ever at around 80 km/h for not having anticipated a sharp curve. Fibre parts took a hit and that was 4 months ago. I'm still waiting for one last spare - the tank extensions on the left.
2. A classic 350 guy hit me and ran away. I was left with a bent handlebar which was solved soon. No impact on the fork / swingarm thankfully.

Mods made:
1. 8000K H4 Bluish white HID which works well with the given battery. Have already used this setup for 1000+ kms & 2 months. I didn't find any clues of battery drain.
2. LED pilot lamps (pretty insignificant)

Would I still recommend this bike?
Yes, if this is their first bike or are upgrading from a tiny-displacement bike and would like to have good *affordable* performance.
No, if the person asking me is a hooligan who loves to abuse his bike the gross way.

I hope this post clears most doubts. If not, I'm open to queries.

Thanks again. I will be taking it to the Probking svc this monday. Hope it is rectified pronto.

Haha. Same here. Waiting for tank extension on the left..

so am getting my bike tomorrow
is there anything i should check about ?
and will they give bike cover ? and keychain and stuff ?
should i follow run in till 2000kms ? or 1000kms is enough ?
and about the helmet, am still confused which one to go for around 3.5k like ls2
please help

next week i'm going to change my engine oil from Bajaj dtsi oil to motul 7100 20w 50 is that flush oil should be used before pouring

Nope

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Can tyre pressure get increased on its own???

Around 2-3 weeks back , i had filled air in both tyres front being at 28 and rear at 35 from SVC. Yesterday after filling petrol, went to fill up air thinking air pressure would have reduced by now( tyres were in hot condition as i had ridden around 25 kms, and so i asked that guy to put 28 and 35 in front and rear respectively). To my amazement when that guy tried to fill in air, front tyre pressure was around 32 and rear was at 40 psi.

Is this normal? how can it get increased on its own that too after 2-3 weeks of running?

Also i find the bike to be more responsive and tyres more grippier when i fill air at 28 and 35 in front and rear as opposed to company recommended 25 and 32 psi. Anybody else felt the same?

The difference in pressure might be due to different calibration of the machines.. here a ~4psi difference in both front and rear.. say only your rear tyre pressure had increased while the front stayed the same, that would have been a baffling question..

I usually stick to a single place to fill/check the tyre pressure.. that way deviations due to calibrations will not be present

I usually stick to +1 psi over the recommended pressure.. once a local tyrewalla had filled much higer than recommended (around 35) and I felt the bike loosing grip under braking and acting unsettled on kuccha roads..

You will get nothing than a Naked bike

Buddy did u say that you fell at 80 km/hr??, were you hurt?
i has an accident last year, was riding at 35-40 km/hr and my left arm broke in to two, i have two metal plates in my arm now