It is supposed to show 1k when cold and around 1.5k when hot(after running 3-4 kms). That's because the engine is actually running when it is idle. This is why it is advisable to switch off the engine at traffic lights to get more FE and to save fuel.

Pictures of the white bikes are few and far between on this thread. Hope to see your bikes pictures soon. The white colour must be garnering a lot of attention on the road?

@mubashirkk & Gagan0123- Congrats on your new white and black rides.

Friends, pls tell me if its okay to buy a 12 month old Motul 300V synthetic oil ? Its too old but the storekeeper for obv. reasons say that its nothing wrong. Pls reply urgent!

if seal is not broken, then no problem in using it: it doesn't harm

look at the can for shelf lifetime.
refer url: Welcome to Motul

tell the shopkeeper that its old stock and bargain.

shake it well before using the oil

Congratulations Gagan:-)..Keep ur gs in good shape and ride safe

@Kirtimannan

Thats Awesome news guys.. But at least you guys could have informed me..I am still waiting to meet fellow GSpians for a long time

Anyway there is always next time...keep me informed..

Stator Coil Rewinding in GS150R

Hi.. ,I have gone through the post of coil rewinding. Its very interesting. I have some queries. Can you please answer them ?

You have used 18 swg and 19 swg. So on which you are getting more power ?
Is there any reduction in performance of the bike ?
In the stator, You have soldered in the opposite direction as of the stock setting. Like, you have soldered the point 1 to earth and took out the point 2 wire to RR. Why it is so ?
You asked to rewind in alternate fashion. Why this is so ?

Direct DC headlight connection through Relay.

Friends,

Today, I have given my GSR a direct DC connection from battery. The result is 15 to 20 % increase in Headlight illumination. Pass light is much more powerful as both the filament are glowing together.

The logic what I though was: in the stock setup, headlight is powered by AC Current from RR. So I thought to give the AC current to relay (from switch) and from relay to headlight. (a separate wire taken from battery +ve and -ve terminal). But the was in vain. Relay didn't work in AC current. So forced to give battery connection from key switch. I planned to do the entire setup with cutting any of the stock wire. But because of AC current relay, had to cut a yellow wire from RR unit.

These are the things I have done:

1. bought 3 relays for 75 Rs each. (for pilot light, low beam and high beam)
2. Took +ve wire from ammeter. So deflection will be shown in ammeter for headlight usage.
3. Fed the stock socket and +ve wire as an input for relay.
4. Connected the bulb holder to relay.
5. Took a common earth wire from headlight to connected to battery -ve terminal.
6. Since stock socket gives AC Current, relay didn't work.
7. So had to cut the yellow wire from RR.
8. With an additional wire, connected the yellow wire to orange wire of key switch.
9. Everything worked like a charm.

Since I have the ammeter, I can monitor the charging system of the bike.

These are my observation.

1. Since I disconnected the yellow wire from RR, more AC current is available to RR for charging. As soon as I start the engine (self start), RR will charge the battery. Earlier it gave around 2-3 amps of current to charge. Now it is giving 3-4 amps of current. And battery is getting charged quickly than before.
2. When I switch on the headlight, situation changed. Below 3k RPM, Coil current can't charge the battery. After 3k RPM ammeter needle comes to +ve side. So in stock setup, headlight won't receive full 12 volt current from coil.
3. The above situation is same for low beam, high beam and pass light. (here pass light is switched on when the headlight is off).
4. Now I tested the pass light when low beam is on. Ammeter needle showed more than 6 amps of current.

The conclusion is, stock electric system can't give required power for Head lamp.



My next move is replacing stock RR with Ape RR. As in stock RR, certain portion of AC Current is separated for headlamp. In Ape RR, I can make use of full current that comes from coil.



Your suggestions and comments are welcome.

19swg will give better output in a 12pole stator considering we need to get more turns also.... I got little no. turns with 18swg..

Nope, I soldered it like a stock one (For Point ONE) and taken point 2 out directly w/o any soldering.. Check it again bro...

Alternate fashion is winding one pole in CW and the next pole in CCW and next to it in CW and so on... SO if you start in CW direction you'll finish the winding with CCW direction...

Why means it's the electrical principle of alternator to produce phase shifts with the help of Permanent Magents revolving around the coil... I not 100% certain about the explaination I gave.. But I remember from my studies it's a principle...

{CW refers Clockwise and CCW refers to counterclockwise}

I appreciate your hardwork and the efforts you had put to test it..

My opinions are stock RR & its charging system is capable of powering a 35/35w Halogen/HID bulb in Full DC setup w/o any hassle if you rewiund the coil alone..

If you want to take more load to powerup a 55/60w Halogen/HID it's sincerely advisable to move onto APE RR...

Hope I made it clear

Thanks mubashirkk and vikhyat

Thanks ashoka_bnglr, I'll try to do my best......

@all
In last two days, my ODO has reached 120km. The top speed attained = 64kmph on my new bike. Having trouble changing gears, specially the lower ones(1,2,3). One pilot lamp is dead already and dealer promised to change it on first service(which I guess will be next week).
Here's one pic my friend before going to office in the afternoon.

Thanks Bro..
Have to rewind the coil soon...

I had the same issue when it was new.. After the odo started to raise, day by day the gears went normal.. Ride ur ride buddy it'll get its form once it started to roll on..

PS: Earlier it was very hard to shift and false shifting happened frequently.. No problem in gear shifting after 2k kms on my bike..But no signs of them nowdays..

Keep ur bike clean and do regular wash and wax if possible... I'd made lot of scratches and paint got faded on tank bcos of poor maintenance..

Guys recently i saw a pic of GS150R with R15 shield (guard)..i've been doing some research (locally) since then ..finally i got a positive answer from a store named "expo".The price they quote for the total conversion is about 4000..previously they have done unicorns and p150 , 200 , 220 .etc but GS150r looks freakishly awesome with the R15 shield and the suzuki logo ...m soon gonna get this mod and post pics...any thoughts??

ALL THE BEST.

Just make sure that your new fitment doesn't rattles while riding...

Thicker wire gives more current while thinner one gives more voltage (both due to the number of turns) but what we need is a balanced output of both voltage and current.
I have rewound the 8 pole stator with 18 swg wire successfully but the new stator has 12 poles and, according to gmagesh, it is difficult to wind it with 18 gauge wire with sufficient number of turns.
But the turns on the poles of the stator in my bike now is much lesser than 66 but it is giving sufficient voltage even at low rpm.
If you are not planning to use 100/90 or higher watt headlight bulb, rewinding with 19 swg wire will be enough.
In the stock stator, one leg is connected to the ground. One end of the stator coil and the pulsar coil is connected to the other leg.
Start winding from the opposite side of pole No. 1(marked as ‘A’) in the picture, in alternative direction to pole number 2, 3 and so on and finish at pole number 12 and solder the end to the leg (marked as ‘B’) near it. Remember to leave 2-2.5 feet wire before winding to take out through the bush on stator cover and connect to the RR.
You can take out this end and connect to the RR without soldering it to the leg on the stator plate.
The poles and magnets in the rotor are positioned in a way that while the north pole of magnet goes one winding, the south pole is going past the next one exactly. In this way, and as the windings are in opposite direction, the currents produced in each windings adds up and we get the maximum output. If it is wound in the same direction, the current produced in each pole gets cancelled.

There is a PM for you.