@jmjjohnDo not adjust without proper feeler gauge. Exhaust stem is subjected to more heat hence more clearance needed for proper mating during working temperatures.

Take photos instead of videos like this one : http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/do-yours...-noise-fz.html
@rsk_kelkar did clearance adjustments recently with good results. He might help you out.

It is going to be a long process - as I will have to close it up and start the engine to check for the sound. And then let it cool down completely before I try and adjust again. Hopefully I will not mess up.

Wait for @rsk_kelkar to share service manual or the clearances at the least. Search the thread someone might have shared it earlier.

Looks like GS is still failing to beat its arch-rival, Unicorn:

Hey Guys,

I am just about to complete 28,000km on my 19 months old GS. Got done 14th paid servicing this saturday and haven't missed a single service as yet. Overall the bike has served its purpose to the fullest and is continuing to give the same smoothness, comfort and ride quality even today.
My recent problem with this bike started with 13th servicing when I instructed the service guy to adjust the valve clearance as I could hear some cluttering noise from engine head. After this adjustment the cluttering noise was gone, but I could hear very small but irritating throaty grunt at ~4500rpm. It was also accompanied by very small but noticeable vibrations. So I thought the valve clearances were not set right. During 14th service I told the service person to kindly re-adjust the valve clearance but he said the noise and vibes are normal since bike has clocked 28k km and there will be some vibrations now on. I wasn't really convinced but I didn't argue coz I didn't want to lose my temper at them.

After coming back from 14th service, I bought a Taparia tool set (pack of 23), 5,6 & 10 mm allen keys, and a feeler gauge in a local shop. Thanks to the service manual shared by some awesome guys here on the forum, I adjusted the valve clearances to 0.04mm (intake) and 0.1mm(exhaust). After this adjustment the bike seems to be even smoother and no vibes at all. Also the throaty grunt is gone. I would like to redirect you all to this awesome post by @Drifty which inspired some confidence in me to do this by myself.

Sorry I couldn't get any photos or videos to share as my hands were all greasy and I didn't have anyone to help me along. Thanks to all the members for keeping this forum alive and sharing awesome information.

TIP: Keep your bike OFF vernight before adjusting valve clearance. I think the service guy did adjust the clearance well in the 13th service but the engine was hot then as he just test rode the bike before service.

This was my first major DIY activity on this bike. I had only done some minor DIYs before like tightening the chain and changing engine oil. I am going to take up full DC conversion when I change the engine oil.

I unfortunately dont have a copy of the service manual. I am going to check the existing space and then go with trial and error - with the following logic: Most of the bikes ie. 150cc air cooled have a similar range of clearance - like the one you mentioned - so unless I go off by too much - there should be no damage, short term or long term. If adjusting it within that range shows some improvement - then I am on the right track. If not then it has to be something like the cam shaft, follower or rocker arms ...

It is going to be a long process - as I will have to close it up and start the engine to check for the sound. And then let it cool down completely before I try and adjust again. Hopefully I will not mess up.

Once I am done fixing the problem - I will take the photos in reverse order and post with instructions on how to. Right now my priority is to fix the problem. The video was for the sound - so that I could get the collective wisdom of the internet to help me find the problem.

It is going to be a long process - .

Also, if possible try to measure the current clearance before adjustment so that other owners can get idea about deterioration of clearances over time.

Intake - 0.04 - 0.07 mm
Exhaust - 0.1 - 0.15mm

For best results its good to have valves on the tighter side of the allowance. Too tight valves engine heats up, too loose idling lowers, lose of power etc.

I have installed tubeless tires on the back. I tried for the front also - but I had an accident when I hit a big rock in the centre of the road at night and bend my front rim slightly. I got it hammered and straightened without cracking. You cant really say by looking that it has been beaten back into shape. But the mechanic did not want to take a risk by installing tubeless in the front.

Now to the problem - there is a consistent air leak from both my front and back tyres. (around 1 PSI every 2-3 days). The back tyre is cause of the valve. The rim is not made for tubeless and hence has a deep "U" in the centre of the rim on the inside. When you install the valve it does not seat 100% properly and you have to install rubber washer. The washer cracks over time and air keeps escaping. Front tyre air leak - mechanics have not been able to find the problem - no puncher, no air leak at the valve - so no clue.

Hi Experts:

1. I understand from the forum that it is good to lube the chain every 500 kms. What oil shall we use for lubing? Can we do it ourselves?
2. Minor vibrations are observed on the bike. When I go for servicing this saturday, what should I tell the service centre guys? They should not mess with any fitting. That's the reason I am asking this.
3. Is there any online site where I can buy more cushioned seat cover for GS150R. I searched and could not find one. I need some good cushioning.

All is well otherwise. Bike is going strong at 16400 kms.

Thanks, Deemash.

@DaddyBob

Request you to share the converted service manual if possible. I tried the original link, even the spanish language one is not available to download.
Please do share here whenever you can.



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1. You can do it yourself or get it done at the neighborhood mechanic shop. Checking air pressure in tires and oiling wherever necessary (including the chain) is what I do together at a mechanic's near my house.
2. Vibrations at what engine speed? Asking coz there is a well-acknowledged issue of vibrations (around 3.5-4k rpm) starting from the exhaust mounting that many riders (not me yet) have noticed and rectified using a rubber washer.
3. No idea about this one. Your local seat/seat cover shops are the best places for such things. My uncle had it done on his Gladiator and the results were not too pleasing to the eye although he was very happy with the increased comfort.

@DaddyBob

1. You can do it yourself or get it done at the neighborhood mechanic shop. Checking air pressure in tires and oiling wherever necessary (including the chain) is what I do together at a mechanic's near my house.
2. Vibrations at what engine speed? Asking coz there is a well-acknowledged issue of vibrations (around 3.5-4k rpm) starting from the exhaust mounting that many riders (not me yet) have noticed and rectified using a rubber washer.
3. No idea about this one. Your local seat/seat cover shops are the best places for such things. My uncle had it done on his Gladiator and the results were not too pleasing to the eye although he was very happy with the increased comfort.

This thread is almost in the ICU after Sparkot and Punarvasu became quiet, anybody knows what happened to them ? Rsk, its wonderful that you attempted the tappet adjustment - will ask you some help when I am ready to do the same. Did your sheared 8 mm crankcase nut problem got solved?



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