Dont try elf.. Bubbly tried and he had some pretty bad reviews,
I saw his post in the engine oils thread page 259, not sure if he posted the same in this place too.

But the oil in general has some pretty good reviews..
Not sure if it doesnt suit GS or if that bottle he tried was fake.

Motul semi synthetic 20w40 ??
Which one is that.. motul semi synthetic comes only in 15w50 and 10w40 i think.. (motul 5100) and it costs more than 350.

checked with the dealer over phone he said its MOTUL 3000 4T 20W40

Motul 3000 4t 20w40

I am using MOTUL 3000 4T 20W40 for my bike from last week.
MOTUL 3000 4T 20W40 isa mineral oil and MRP is RS.217..
I got the 1 ltr bottel in 210.
The oil is gr8; after 40-50 KM i can feel the gear shift is smoother than the Suzuki oil..
and bike is becoming smooth and smooth....
if any Mumbai guys want Motul Oil.. can contact me...
The mumbai head office for motul is at Ghatkopar (E.).
Oil is also available at Kurla(W) near Kalpana Cinema.
Contact Number : 9867556229 (Saif) Near Utsav Restaurant And Bar.

cheers,
Kiran...

Hi brother i am still on gulf 4T plus and run around 1000km only,So now in this thread most of us discussing about oil change and experiment with each brand,I changed my battery to exide 9Ah bikerz for Rs 1250, bcos found my battery gone in 1.2years may be due to wiring done for the xenos firewall 45(anti theft alarm)
About ELF oil ,some one asked in thread ,not only oil avail is fake.... I use mach 3 turbo for shave, it is fake here(not last long), when i buy imported(france) from burma bazaar(local karaikal), i found it is good and last long and cheaper by 100Rs for 4 blade(Rs 250)

Nice to know Motul 3000 user, it is avail in my small town and just opposite suzuki showroom.I thought to try after my Gulf 4T PLUS reaches 3000km(distance).
Overall get relief from power1 castrol after experience of rough engine and bad gear shift...
Gulf also good oil,I have earlier exp with this oil in 1992,when i have KB RTZ, and fill gulf 2T in shivaji nagar bengaluru..... in a whole sale shop..
super smooth.....

Gear ratios/rpm/speed calculation

Posted by page 149 ssivakumar.r Thank you for the good calculation work. I have a few points to discuss , i feel cutting down 2 cm for tire deflation under bike's weight can by reduced to say 0.5?..do we really see so much loss of tire height under load?
Also, i have noticed in the tacho markings the distance between 0 and 1k is lesser(needle travels lesser distance) than the other rpm markings like 1 to 2, 2 to 3 and so on, could this have a bearing on the actual engine rpm i.e. engine is running, say a 100 or 200 rpms lower than indicated.
Reason is i feel the bike can do the sixth gear even taller, say 500 to 1k rpm lower than current rpm at speeds above 60..etc..
The bike is very good for cruising in the sixth gear, but we cannot alter the rear wheel or the sprokets to get more taller ratios coz the speedo sensor is fixed to front sprocket and would throw off the calibration

Regards engine oil, i run my bike on 1.5 liter engine oil (add a 1/2 liter can after service), the difference is amazing, i have been doing it to my pulsar too..run 30k kms now on that..engine is superb..ppl say about frothing, piston rings getting damaged etc but i have faced no such issues..all noise, smoothness, gear shift, clutch etc give a completely different feel when running. i feel 1 liter has been kept as standard coz it is available in that packaging easily. Engine oil capacities for Fz 1.3 L?, Fiero 1.1L, even Enticer too 1.4L if i remembr, Bajaj eliminator had something like 1.3 liter capacity. I have tried this out in my pulsar since 3 yrs and it is really smooth, wear and tear is less.

I know this could go against warrnty etc but i feel it really keeps the engine components in top comfort

anyone who could think of any concrete drastic drawbacks with running say 1.3 or 1.4 liters are welcome to share..

Even GS has 1.2L For that matter as far as i know but You will fill the whole 1.2L only when you are opening the engine if you just drain it then 1L is enough. This is what i know.

what bike u currently have?....when we discuss oil issues , we forgot one thing, i don't know abt rest of the bikes, but GS150R comes with suzuki jet cooling system(SJCS) not in other bikes i hope so atleast for 150CC till 220cc..
Is that thing makes all sort of roughness issue or knocking etc ...i have doubt
just want to clarify
My mech while changing oil last time (gulf 4t Plus) ,did'nt add extra 100ml as i changed oil filter too , but he add 10ml to filter(in hole), then rest 990ml to oil tank...
shall i add myself 100ml? extra?
The reason he told me is while opening engine only we need another 100ml or more.. is it true?

this is what i mention here as my mech told.what abt while changing oil filter..?

I think its 1.1 litre with new oil filter,
1 litre without changing filter
and 1.4 litre if you open the engine.

While filling 1 litre and not changing the oil filter, i noticed that the oil level comes exactly between the E and F lines.
May be another 50ml would bring the level a bit higher near F line but since i have to buy a whole bottle i just fill the 1 litre and use it.

If your bike's oil level is near the E line then you need to add some oil, otherwise just use it like that.

Does your bike have a oil indicating window ? (pulsar i meant)
If yes could you tell the oil level in both your bikes with the extra oil ?
(like does it cross the F line by a big margin ?

Excess oil does have bad effects buddy.
For one, there will be a damping effect on the motion of piston due to increased resistance to motion by the extra oil, which translates to low power and mileage..

@Anupdas,
1)the heat generated now is comparatively less......when compared to earlier...(with in 2nd service)......
2) if you consider heat with relation to viscosity and the resulted smoothness/hardness..than heat was generated more earlier than now..(this i can feel at my feet) than the knocking sound must have appeared less than now.....but the nocking sound is there as it is....15 days back i shifted to "Gulf pride 4t plus" 20w40 mineral oil....from than onwards the knocking sound was competitively less...ever luxurious gear shift.....engine was also smooth in relation to castrol.....

May be i have to clock some more kms on Odo and this problem will get addressed....

Guyz, this is a small update regarding the mileage my gs is delivering( it is 70 % city and 20% highway)in eco mode....after 2nd service, thrice fed my gs with 4 litres of petrol each time and for the first feed the bike clocked 231.2kms....for the second feed it delivered 229.7kms....the third feed stil in progress till now it gave 160kms..lets see how much it covers this time.......

Very good question indeed, but i still stick to what i said earlier. When the engine is new the engine heats to a point that the oil loses viscosity. Within couple of oil changes engine will be settled and the heat will be less in a sense that now the engine will be in a stable operating temperature. When the revs are high at top gear, the engine heat will be there but the gushing air and engine oil is enough to keep the engine temperature to a stable value. During break-in period the heat produced will be higher than the cooling provided by air.

About the knocking sound I cannot say the exact reason, but i experienced that its reducing gradually with time.

These are some great mileage figures, 57-58 kmpl indicates that your engine is in perfect condition. On what speed do you ride normally?

This is nothing to do with oil change...

for past one week or something... my bike struggles in morning/ when cold to start. i thought its time to change oil and did.

but prob is still there. i also increased idling speed. Still no use.

Im opening throttle little bit and starting it. Why its happening ? any idea ?

I too have the same issue. After rain has hit here, on mornings the idling rpm goes well below 1000 rpm and idling rpm reaches 1400 when engine is warm.Even on idling for a minute engine will stall if i let go of throttle. I think its because of the cold air temperature but i think its not a serious issue. We can see how engine behaves in winter.