yupps....looks and design are the two thing you get too experience when you don not own

ya this is i like very much about it. Looks big. And as now you say, it feels big..great

are you sure??

cool...

thanks mate....more experiences are welcome

yup......m damn sure.......as i did power shifting......i remember that day very much......

Hi did u fill petrol in genuine petrol station ? Bcos guys from bangalore(how abt delhi) report lot of problem filling petrol(less quantity),this will lead to you wrong mileage due to less petrol.If u go next service, request them to do a 100ml test with mileage can,be sure to empty petrol in carb

I instead tell the SVC guys,not to tune my carb at their services
They mess it bad,I tune my my bike's carb myself,from day one.So I cant say if it would be safe or not after the 2nd service,never had a situation to think of that idea

You can go for it,if you are confident not to mess up and willing to try and sweat.GSR is a tough bike,it wont die for a carb tuning,going wrong.

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MACH Bro... I guess you are the experienced expert in carb tuning. Here is a question for you. Since GS150 and Suzuki Fiero share the same carb I assume, is the tuning method the same as you mentioned in your previous post? (4 revolutions anti-clockwise from the closure point). I also have an old Fiero and wish to tune the carb. Help is highly appreciated. Well the Fiero does not have a Tacho so RPM will be based on sound judgement.

Hey Mach50.. I wanted to try tuning it myself. Was searching for your post more that a month back about tuning. I tried searching for more than half an hour; but could not find it. can you locate it for me and post the link???

I feel I'm running on a very lean mixture and engine gets rough after 4.5K rpm which was not the case earlier.

I'm so so frustrated with the rear tyre :-S

Damn! Last time i.e. A month ago I inflated my tyres.. I rode for 3 kms. & bang.. Tube blasted cos of a 5 inch nail.. 5 punctures = RS 200 (repair of punctures & he put some layer on the rubber)
Damn! again, 1 hour ago, I inflated my tires.. I rode for 1 km... F*ck Tube blasted again, Puncture.. 3 inch Nail
And hey, both the times it happened @ rear tyre (back tyre if rear is not the word)

Now, is this ^*%^$%^*&^ a co-incidence or I'm in trouble ?
BTW, I replaced the tube.. Got a SATYAM's tube for RS. 200, there was no damage to the tire.. i.e. bahar wala rubber part this time(mechanic said that)..

Also, on the tyre it is written that PSI should be 29 if solo & 32 if with pillion.. I always ride solo but that guy put 31 PSI on the machine while inflating
Okk I don't want anymore kharcha


Somebody ?

hmm...Ok

Thanks mate.

CARB TUNING GUIDE :

For the Suzuki GSR........
Tune the carb as adviced in the Bike advice article.I also participated in making that article and you will find my suggestions under the name of Suddhatma Mukherjee.

Take note:
Mikuni BS26mm has Bronze colored Fuel screw on its left side.......or the left side of the bike.The Steel colored Idling screw is on the right side,pointing vertically upwards-supporting the dual throttle cable.I wont explain which side rotation makes lean or rich.....as I expect confusion out of it.Just follow whats written below


For the GSR,take the bike out for a ride-ride for about 15 minutes and do some 2-3kms,this is the perfect engine warm up.......
Next,bring the bike home or at garage,put it on central stand.
Get the screw driver out of your tool kit and proceed as follows-
1.raise idling to 3000 rpm by turning the idling screw,then turn the fuel screw clockwise till lock(count the clockwise rotations),rpms would come down to around 1400rpm.
2.Next lower the idling to 1000 rpm with the idling screw,the bike would be about to stall.This means you have reached leanest possible mixture.
3.Then turn the Fuel screw anti-clockwise,four rotations.........bingo,you are at optimum tune.Rpms would auto-matically rise to 1500-1600 rpms from 1000rpms lower the idling screw a bit to bring it around 1500rpms.

You will find the engine humming without any up or down or irregularities in engine beating.
Mine is at 4.5 rotations anticlockwise from lock,5.0 rotations anticlockwise from lock would make rich mixture.

While turning the fuel screw of my bike to lock position clockwise,It had 2.5 rotations on factory set up........which is at leaner position.But now its 4.5 rotations from Lock.

Tests to affirm if your tuning is ok.
1.After the tuning is over.......and you are done setting the idling rpm.........rev the engine till 6500rpm and leave the throttle.If the rpms falls and stops at 1500rpm exactly....then your tuning is alright.If it falls below idling rpm......your tuning is not stable......try it again.If the rpm fall at stop is higher than idling setting,lower the idling by the idling screw.Which means that your bike was not at normal temperature during the tuning.It was colder.

2.After you have been through the first test........keep the engine running,sit the bike on the central stand,engage the first gear,slowly engage the clutch fully.If the rear wheel keeps turning without jerks and without the engine stalling,it means your idling rpms are very much stable and the tuning is perfect.Shift gears and watch for the same in every gear.If its ok in every gears......congrats....you have tuned your bike well Go now smoke

Thanks a lot for the info sir...

Thanks Sanju... I'll try it today evening and update...

rains in chennai makes my bike dirty ... but gives too good climate to ride and enjoy...

Currently looks like i don't need it but very confused with calculating mileage since after my GS came to reserve i ran for 35kms and then filled about 5.8Ltrs of fuel and till now it as run 294Kms not yet come to reserve.

So if i am calculating the mileage then it is 294/5.8=51 approx right?

p.s akfara i fill in very genuine fuel station

Thank you for such informative n complete article.
i have question
fter running for 15-16km, when i park the bike idling is almost about 2000rpm is it NORMAL??

Everyone has told you about pros..
so cons,
first of all Headlight n its a major problem other are very minor, sorry but that stock Halonix is crap...i dont know about your height/build but have a test drive first n get exp about height n weight of the bike.
Pros
its a All-Aluminium engine which gets warmed up easily n cools down fast..
other advantage of it is it allows higher RPMs max RPM is electronically limited to around 10750 RPM,
High rpm shifting is butter smoooth

Help Somebody ?