Engine Oil Level

Is this level alright? Is there any other way to check?
I am concerned because the engine gets heated up after like 3km of riding, i mean i can feel the heat waves on my right leg.
What else could be the reason?
new GS odo = 110

The oil level is OK, btw, you read the owners' manual throughly and then check your self, put the bike on centre stand on flat surface before checking the level.
I understand your bike is new and probably in run-in period ? If so don't worry the engine is getting bedded and during run-in it's natural. This will be upto 1000-1500kms. Don't worry, any doubt visit Suzuki ASS and get it cleared.

From the picture am able to find the following

1. Oil level is okay

2. Oil color is okay

3. Even the viscosity seems to be fine.

I know what's your next question

Nothing wrong with your bike

its the oil (if its svc oil then its not jaso ma 2 standard)
The normal oil won't with stand GS and all new varient 150 cc temperature so switch to jaso ma 2 standard oil (i-e motul 3000 T plus 20W 40)

I hope the quote below refreshes your mind and memory
Obviously you did not create it,but shared it.And I became aware of it through you

See, there were no bikes at the time of Newton. So he didn’t consider this possibility.

No problem if you have enough petrol in the tank.

Refer page 6-52 of owner’s manual. If you cannot locate it, I shall try to upload an image of it later.

It is the headlight beam; not focus. Focus is our problem.

Choose a MF battery. I am using Castrol Power1 semi-synthetic oil (Rs. 279/- now) for the last 10 or more years without any problem. If you prefer it, get it from an authorized dealer.

mach: Most of the information in the article Ive mentioned is in this thread below....I came across it now as I was searching for that article if it was posetd anywhere on these forums. The information on panic braking is not as focused as the article and will have to be collected from around 7 pages....which I just had a glance at and not a thorough comparison. I'll go over it again tomorrow, make a comparison and get back on this. Or you could just get the issue.



If anyone does not have the xbhp issue or is not patient enough to go through either the article in the mag or the site, Ill get to the gist of it.......the procedure for panic braking is detailed as follows:

> Release throttle, make the bike as straight and stable as possible.
> Apply a touch of the rear, dont stomp on it, apply just enough to transfer weight or centre of mass of the bike to the front(via suspension and rider)
> As soon as you detect the front diving upon rear application, release rear brake and quickly apply front brake. Disengaging clutch is recommended.
> Keep squeezing front brake until bike slows down to speeds safe enough to use the rear without wheel locking up.
> Once such slowdown is achieved, gradually let go of front and engage the rear just as much until you come to a standstill.
........
> The importance of practice was also highlighted. Practice until it becomes second nature. I really dont understand where skill starts and practice ends. However skilled one may be, enough practice of the primary actions may free up one's conscious resources to focus on other variables.
> This refers to generalised street riding not taking into account the riders weight, pillion, road conditions, brake conditions, type of bike and\or other variables.....which means one will have to compensate for that with one's own brains.
> The reason for disengaging clutch was not mentioned. Apart from the one experienced by me, I would like to know if any other reason exists.

------------

@ madhu, augustine: The repeated braking-releasing method is not advised. In the link above, look at bottom of page 1 following into page 2 and more if youre curious.

Im sorry, thats right....beam adjustment not focus.

You know....this is what some of the members on this forum refer to as your mysterious ridiculing ways....I dont know if you look at all the possible meanings and tones your statements can carry. Im an innocent guy and I'll laugh at your joke....but Newton will be nodding his head in disapproval from his grave because he predicted that something like that could happen even though he couldnt know where, when and how of it.

We all can only hope the same applies to you also Vishnu.....

. I usually never post one liners, but this joke got me! LOL

Ani....when going through previous posts randomly I read that you are using the Osram Silverstar...on the GS....

How is the performance...kindly let me know....Also if we have to do any modifications to the bike to use the Osram Silverstsr.... I plan to make my pilot buls DC and put LED in them...and then i plan to put the silverstar....
kindly let me know the details....thanks..

Is this possible to make only pilot bulb DC

Gurubhai, I was using silverstar on GS. It was better than Stock definitely, but now I have changed to HIDs, and even silverstar was like a set of candles in front of them. But 180rs spent on silverstar were well worth it. For giving more power to bulb, you need to either remove pilot lamps, or convert them to DC. If you convert only the pilot lamps to DC, no need to convert them to LED because anyways they will draw light from battery.

I guess yes because someone long ago on this thread mentioned that he converted the pilot lamps to DC by some simple connection to the pilot lamps, cost him some 20 bucks!

animeher. Could you please tell me what is the work involved in converting to full dc HIDs and how much it would cost?