Finally, i figured out that the bigger screw above was the Idling Screw.
Set out with my First ever Carb Tuning DIY.
Raised the idling to 3000 rpm and then turned the Fuel Screw clockwise till Lock.
Messed up the rotations count. So, not sure how much was it originally set to.
Next, lowered the idling to around 1000 rpm.
Now, turned the Fuel Screw Anti-clockwise.
Turned it till 4 Rotations Anticlockwise but still the rpm was around 1100 only.
Turned it 2 more times to around 6. By this time, the Screw was about to come out. Still, the rpms were only around 1100 - 1200.
I thought i messed up some where and started the whole process again.
Now, while turning the Fuel Screw Anticlockwise, turned it till ~ 3.6 Rotations.
Still, rpms were hovering around 1200.
Turned the Idling Screw and brought to exact 1500 rpms.
Engine noise was sounding regular and stable.
Now went through both the Tests.
Raised the Throttle twice till 7 RPM and let it fall down. Both times, it stopped exactly at 1500 Rpm. First Test Successful.
Started the 2nd Test. Tested till 5th Gear. Rear Wheel was rotating freely without any Jerks with uniform engine noise.
Tuning seems OK to me but am not sure since after turning the Fuel Screw anticlockwise the RPM's did not rise to 1500 RPM, as per the Tuning Guide.
So, now my Fuel Screw is set at ~3.6 Rotations Anticlockwise [2009 Model].
Went for a small Ride of 2 Kms and after coming back, Idling was at exact 1500 RPM.
Guys, please post your thoughts and suggestions.



by this bush ,and told me Come with Pulsar Bush if u need pilot or headlamp replacement



).. the mod guy also fitted a normal halogen near the HID which works in AC like original ones.. so could use this bulb incities and short rides and wont eat up battery.


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