I've heard good things about MRF Vyde 120.

Quote:"I've used Zapper C and Zapper Vyde. Zapper Vyde has better grip than C in wet, although in dry they're similar."
Quote:"I put Zapper Vyde in my RTR 180 and it sticks like glue and looks good too."
Quote:"Zapper Vyde is the best tyre MRF makes"

So I guess you should go for it.
Also I'll be changing my tyre to Vyde sometimes later so your review will be helpful to me
ps: I thought the price of Vyde is 2300/-

MRF Zapper Vyde was 2500/- last time I checked 3 months back

^^ Can you post a pic ?
Is it near fins ? If so it might be leaking from head.

It is not near the fins,had cleaned yesterday.It was near the engine number. Checked it today,found no traces Here's the pic.

Now Cons.
1.High cost (I paid almost 90k which drained my bnk account).
2.Some creepy sound comes out from rear disk while breaking.
3.Bike performance goes down when riding with pillion rider.

If its not there now, its ok, but just wanted to know before you noticed the oil marks, you did some speed runs say about 90-100kmph? Just curious

Thanks for the reply bro No, i didn't did speed in excess of 90-100kmph, it was around 60-70kmph for a
very short period of time, say two minutes or so.Any worries

Chill .
If it happens again before next servicing then let us know

My white angel has reached the stables. I will put on some pics tomorrow morning

OK Bro I am making a habit of checking for the black deposits every time i go for a ride
Will go for 5th free service after one month.RHS switch assembly and TPS will be changed under warranty.
And anything that need to be looked after during the service?

Just go as it is mentioned in the Service booklet. Regarding switch and TPS , ask them to keep it in stock. If that oil leak appears again do post.

In the pics below, there is drain screw shown. Just close the fuel cock and open that drain screw. Let all the petrol come out. Retighten the screw. Done.

If you wwant to clean carb completely, spare atleast 1 hour. and do as follows:
1. drain petrol as said above ---> remove the carb from left side of bike by loosening hose clamps on intake and outlet side of carb.

2. Disconnect fuel line

3. Use 10mm open end spanner(available in tool kit) to disconnect throttle cable.

4. Disconnect the choke cable by 12mm open end spaner (tool kit).

5. remove vacuum cap and diaphragm+slide assembly (shown in pics below)

6. remove fuel sump by opening 2 (+) screws on bottom immediately followed by float dis-assembly.

7. Hold the jet holder with 8mm spanner and remove the jet with (-) screw driver.

8. Remove jet holder (8mm box spanner preferred), primary jet (- screw driver), air jet (small -screw driver) and AFR screw(- screw driver)
Note- If you don't know AFR tuning, just check how much rotation is it open before removing.

9. Clean all the holes you can see on jet and jet holder.

10. Pass one fine wire from hole next to air jet. This will come out in cavity of jet holder. pass the wire 2-3 times to clean it.

11. If possible, blow high pressure air in all holes of carb body.

12. Now Put back every thing in reverse order.

13. Assemble the carb back on bike. Open the fuel cock and check for leakages through sump gasket. If its leaking, open the sump only, properly assemble the gasket and tighten the screws equally.

14. Either tune the AFR(if know the proper method) or set it at its initial position. -don't play with this. I will provide detailed tuning method if needed after words.

Note-
1. Do this if you are out of warranty. If you mess while playing and SVC refuses the claim, dont come to me.

2. One can skip AFR screw removal if feeling skeptical.

Apologies for describing in words only. Too busy to prepare DIY with photos videos and all.

So. its the oil leakPlease help me