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**shahbaz63** · 06-29-2012, 12:46 PM

Originally posted by vivekgautams View Post

Switch to a 35W HID.. It does NOT void the warranty.HID is 200% more efficient compared to halogen bulb & does not drain the battery.Try & put a certified HID.(But wait for completing 2-3 services).
I'm running on a HID, works fine, you can see every stone on the road

.& they reduce stress on the eye for both rider and on-coming traffic. But HID being white light, they reflect more, so seeing a sign board will be a pain & you cannot make out water puddles on the road so easily.

How much it cost ? & why to wait for 2-3 servicing ?

**vivekgautams** · 06-29-2012, 01:20 PM

Originally posted by shahbaz63 View Post

How much it cost ? & why to wait for 2-3 servicing ?

HID costs around 2-2.5k..
If any manufacturing defects are present in the bike it pops up during the first 3 services, even if HID does not void the warranty, don't take the risk right now. The company wont accept the (manufacturing) problem (IF it occurs)& will try to blame it on the simple mod.
After the 3rd service go for a HID kit.
PS;- this is my advice. I was thinking on these grounds before fitting the HID. I dint face any warranty problems.

**shahbaz63** · 06-29-2012, 01:31 PM

Originally posted by vivekgautams View Post

HID costs around 2-2.5k..
If any manufacturing defects are present in the bike it pops up during the first 3 services, even if HID does not void the warranty, don't take the risk right now. The company wont accept the (manufacturing) problem (IF it occurs)& will try to blame it on the simple mod.
After the 3rd service go for a HID kit.
PS;- this is my advice. I was thinking on these grounds before fitting the HID. I dint face any warranty problems.

Yes you are right bro ! let me have experience of SVC first... Will do that ..

And what is Half Clutch setting ?

**vivekgautams** · 06-29-2012, 02:45 PM

Originally posted by shahbaz63 View Post

And what is Half Clutch setting ?

It is real simple.. The clutch has a "biting point" beyond which you can feel the NO power being delivered to the rear wheel. only in this small range of clutch the clutch actually works.
The RTR has a half clutch. so you can observe that only during a certain range of pulling the lever, the transmission is disconnected from the engine & power is cut off.
Its quite difficult to explain..

So...just ride different bikes, you will understand yourself..You feel the difference when you ride a RTR & a FZ or R15 or CBR , back to back..You'l notice that you need to pull the clutch lever completely to shift the gear correctly & smoothly. (on the FZ,R15...).

**susheelkumar** · 06-29-2012, 03:01 PM

Hey guys I'm going for a trip (to & fro 450-500km) and already I have run nearly 1.5k with current TVS oil. So should I change oil before that or after the trip? Any idea about the draining period of TVS oil?
I normally use Shell AX7 semi-synthetic. But last time when giving for service I forgot to tell them not to change oil. They as usual changed to TVS oil. Though I heard that recently TVS oil is semi-synthetic and not mineral oil. But still the gear shifts are pretty hard as always when running on TVS oil. Now the million dollar concern is will it cause any issue during the trip as there will as always be a couple of high speed riding. I'm kind of double mind as I would like to change the oil after the trip, but just concerned about the draining period and if engine gets too much overheated.
Btw i'm riding RTR 160 Hyperedge

**lijok** · 06-29-2012, 03:19 PM

Originally posted by susheelkumar View Post

Hey guys I'm going for a trip (to & fro 450-500km) and already I have run nearly 1.5k with current TVS oil. So should I change oil before that or after the trip? Any idea about the draining period of TVS oil?
I normally use Shell AX7 semi-synthetic. But last time when giving for service I forgot to tell them not to change oil. They as usual changed to TVS oil. Though I heard that recently TVS oil is semi-synthetic and not mineral oil. But still the gear shifts are pretty hard as always when running on TVS oil. Now the million dollar concern is will it cause any issue during the trip as there will as always be a couple of high speed riding. I'm kind of double mind as I would like to change the oil after the trip, but just concerned about the draining period and if engine gets too much overheated.
Btw i'm riding RTR 160 Hyperedge

IMO, drain out that stupid TVS oil and use the Shell AX7 (which I love).

If you dont want to do that, once you reach the place, leave the bike on main stand overnight/till it cools down and check the oil level, if you see any drop, top up or replace asap.

**shahbaz63** · 06-29-2012, 03:51 PM

Originally posted by vivekgautams View Post

It is real simple.. The clutch has a "biting point" beyond which you can feel the NO power being delivered to the rear wheel. only in this small range of clutch the clutch actually works.
The RTR has a half clutch. so you can observe that only during a certain range of pulling the lever, the transmission is disconnected from the engine & power is cut off.
Its quite difficult to explain..

So...just ride different bikes, you will understand yourself..You feel the difference when you ride a RTR & a FZ or R15 or CBR , back to back..You'l notice that you need to pull the clutch lever completely to shift the gear correctly & smoothly. (on the FZ,R15...).

Well i have to pull clutch completely... & to pick up a bike in first gear, i have to release clutch completely ...

errr sorry if i sound confusing

**kantu** · 06-29-2012, 03:58 PM

Originally posted by vivekgautams View Post

The RTR has a half clutch.

Where s the remaining Half ? Bastards they took money for complete clutch

Originally posted by shahbaz63 View Post

Well i have to pull clutch completely.

Yeah default factory setting is full clutch as you explained. After some usage it will start behaving like half clutch that s when you need to take out that no 12 spanner and tighten the clutch cable nuts

Just get it adjusted @ svc during every service ,riding in half or full clutch is your preference. Although full clutch riding is preferred.

**shahbaz63** · 06-29-2012, 04:18 PM

Originally posted by kantu View Post

Where s the remaining Half ? Bastards they took money for complete clutch

LMAO

Hilarious Humor

Yeah default factory setting is full clutch as you explained. After some usage it will start behaving like half clutch that s when you need to take out that no 12 spanner and tighten the clutch cable nuts

Just get it adjusted @ svc during every service ,riding in half or full clutch is your preference. Although full clutch riding is preferred.

Well any advantage riding with Full Clutch ? isn't it easy to ride with half clutch?

Any advantage

**vivekgautams** · 06-29-2012, 04:45 PM

Originally posted by shahbaz63 View Post

Well i have to pull clutch completely... & to pick up a bike in first gear, i have to release clutch completely ...

errr sorry if i sound confusing

Even i'm confused on how to explain half clutch...

Ok... Try this.. Start your bike,pull the clutch completely,put it to second gear, give throttle(around 3000rpm), now very slowly start releasing the clutch..(be careful don't pop a wheelie

)
When you start leaving the clutch, you see the bike is still standing still BUT at a certain point the bike starts to move forward,this is the biting point/sensitivity region of the clutch,this happens only in a half..This point can be adjusted to requirement.

You have to pull full clutch & release full clutch as the biting point/sensitivity region has been placed towards the end. you can adjust the sensitivity region according to your needs.
Yes, half clutch is easier to ride in traffic. Its good for quick shifting. BUT the gears become a bit hard & you need to use more muscle for shifting.

**vivekgautams** · 06-29-2012, 04:53 PM

Originally posted by kantu View Post

Where s the remaining Half ? Bastards they took money for complete clutch

We better go fight for the other half

..

Nice one...

**shahbaz63** · 06-29-2012, 05:01 PM

Originally posted by vivekgautams View Post

Even i'm confused on how to explain half clutch...

Ok... Try this.. Start your bike,pull the clutch completely,put it to second gear, give throttle(around 3000rpm), now very slowly start releasing the clutch..(be careful don't pop a wheelie

)
When you start leaving the clutch, you see the bike is still standing still BUT at a certain point the bike starts to move forward,this is the biting point/sensitivity region of the clutch,this happens only in a half..This point can be adjusted to requirement.

You have to pull full clutch & release full clutch as the biting point/sensitivity region has been placed towards the end. you can adjust the sensitivity region according to your needs.
Yes, half clutch is easier to ride in traffic. Its good for quick shifting. BUT the gears become a bit hard & you need to use more muscle for shifting.

Originally posted by vivekgautams View Post

We better go fight for the other half

..

Nice one...

err that i know ... i am asking if there is any advantage or anything ?

And yes that was funny statement clap clap

**vivekgautams** · 06-29-2012, 05:25 PM

Originally posted by shahbaz63 View Post

err that i know ... i am asking if there is any advantage or anything ?

Well according to a mechanic a half clutch will make the gears harder & you need to use more force to shift.. But half clutch will make riding in traffic easy & you can quick shift.

**susheelkumar** · 06-29-2012, 05:57 PM

Originally posted by lijok View Post

IMO, drain out that stupid TVS oil and use the Shell AX7 (which I love).

If you dont want to do that, once you reach the place, leave the bike on main stand overnight/till it cools down and check the oil level, if you see any drop, top up or replace asap.

Thanks for the valuable suggestion.
Better I drain that existing oil & put AX7 before the trip.

**pcgamer** · 06-30-2012, 01:20 PM

Originally posted by Rtrlover83 View Post

Bro i have clocked 16,700Kms and not yet replaced the front disk pads. Still got more than enough bite upfront. And i use the front one's more than the rear! 70%, sort of.

Originally posted by vrags View Post

I just came back from SVC to replace the pads after clocking 12k. My personal advice, forget what SVC ppl recommend. Check the Disc plate to see if it has started showing up the signs of crates around it. If yes, time to change. Else, we'll shell out 1k for the plate rather than 250INR for the pads. Afterall, we dont hv to lose anything by spending 250INR every 6 months of usage to maintain the health of the disc plates. The pads cost 256INR with tax and 150INR labour in bangalore.

Thanks to both of you. I'm really confused now. I didn't understand what exactly are craters? BTW, here's a pic of the front disc at 5.9k

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