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**Rtrlover83** · 07-06-2012, 10:11 PM

Originally posted by rio.acharya View Post

Thanks dude

Also i opened my TPS today. As drifty said it gives continuity in one part and doesnt in other parts of the throttle. But the thing is as per its design it should give continuity in higher rpms when the tps is pulled out fully and should not give continuity at lower rpms when the tps is pulled out slightly.

when i opened my tps it was full of dirt and water thats why it was giving resistance which can confuse the tci and hence the hiccups. I cleaned it thouroughly with soap water and petrol and let it dry. After installing back bike runs like a charm. The roar is back.

although it is a small and inexpensive piece which can be replaced any time it gets dirty but still i just wanted to share the knowledge.

Thanks to you for sharing what you've learnt

Will certainly benefit us owners. Next time if the need arises, would try to service the TPS first rather than replacing it straight away.

**prateek2210** · 07-07-2012, 12:27 AM

Originally posted by chin2_RE View Post

dude!!!! nice slip-on you have there what is it called is it MEGAFONE ??? is it one piece i mean the whole exhaust the slip-on and the manifold ??? how much for this ???

and yeah kindly reply to my earlier post please i wanna know that part on my bike

MEGAFONE

are you kidding me!!! Thats Joel's exhaust

@vivekpetrohead : I can see that you are trying to reduce the weight of the bike but what went wrong with that half-cut visor!!!

**shiwaan** · 07-07-2012, 10:13 AM

Originally posted by prateek2210 View Post

MEGAFONE

are you kidding me!!! Thats Joel's exhaust

@vivekpetrohead : I can see that you are trying to reduce the weight of the bike but what went wrong with that half-cut visor!!!

+1 for that

**chin2_RE** · 07-07-2012, 12:38 PM

guys anyone please kindly reply to my post i really wanna know what is that part for on my 2008 RTR160!!!!!!!!!

**prateek2210** · 07-07-2012, 02:37 PM

Originally posted by chin2_RE View Post

i have a query regarding my digi-console as i have my 2008 RTR160 and it doesn't have any Hi-speed recorder or either lap timer so is it possible to upgrade it to new console of RTR hyper edge which has this facility and i also wanna know that i want to convert my electronics from AC to DC is these above mentioned upgrades possible on my 1st generation RTR ??? kindly enlighten me on this

Is yours the rtr refresh or the one without the digi console?
If its without the digi console yes you can get the new console (provided it would fit)
And regarding ac to dc, this will help http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/desi-bik...s-all-day.html

**shahbaz63** · 07-07-2012, 07:05 PM

Completed 1k today on my beast ...

Opening engine slowly now ....

\m/

**PsychoRider** · 07-07-2012, 11:19 PM

Originally posted by rio.acharya View Post

Also i opened my TPS today. As drifty said it gives continuity in one part and doesnt in other parts of the throttle. But the thing is as per its design it should give continuity in higher rpms when the tps is pulled out fully and should not give continuity at lower rpms when the tps is pulled out slightly.

when i opened my tps it was full of dirt and water thats why it was giving resistance which can confuse the tci and hence the hiccups. I cleaned it thouroughly with soap water and petrol and let it dry. After installing back bike runs like a charm. The roar is back.

although it is a small and inexpensive piece which can be replaced any time it gets dirty but still i just wanted to share the knowledge.

Hey could you please elaborate on how you accessed the TPS? Did you need to remove the tank?

**rio.acharya** · 07-08-2012, 09:41 AM

Originally posted by PsychoRider View Post

Hey could you please elaborate on how you accessed the TPS? Did you need to remove the tank?

yes i removed the tank and then there are just two screws to remove the TPS.

removing the tank is easy there is only one bolt holding it which u can see when u remove the seat. after removing the bolt just hold the tank from front and from the back and slide it outwards towards the rear of the bike.

**alurysharad2008** · 07-08-2012, 11:36 AM

friends i a little question. i was discussing about that my bike cuts off at 11k rpm. but my friends were saying that its impossible for a bike to go that high and asked me to change the tachometer. my friends are having dazzler , p220 ,cbr. so is it true that my bike cuts off at 9k or 9500 but it shows 11k. my bike is rtr fi. please guys do tell me that is our tacho wrong or all bikes fi/180 goes till 11k or higher is true rpm or just wrong ?

**kantu** · 07-08-2012, 11:40 AM

Originally posted by rio.acharya View Post

removing the tank is easy there is only one bolt holding it which u can see when u remove the seat. after removing the bolt just hold the tank from front and from the back and slide it outwards towards the rear of the bike.

I think some more things are missed out here.
First you need to disconnect the Fuel line (the one near petcock) then take out the bolt underneath the seat.
If you push the tank back towards the tail lights and lift it from the front you can see two wires beneath the tank. The big black one is a water hose pipe i think no harm in pulling it open other is an electrical wire can be disconnected easily. Now good to remove the tank. it helps if yo u are low on fuel.

Originally posted by alurysharad2008 View Post

is our tacho wrong or all bikes fi/180 goes till 11k or higher is true rpm or just wrong ?

There might be an error but it should be negligible (+/- 0.5 max) but its correct rpm unlike the speedometer.

**pcgamer** · 07-08-2012, 12:49 PM

Originally posted by alurysharad2008 View Post

friends i a little question. i was discussing about that my bike cuts off at 11k rpm. but my friends were saying that its impossible for a bike to go that high and asked me to change the tachometer. my friends are having dazzler , p220 ,cbr. so is it true that my bike cuts off at 9k or 9500 but it shows 11k. my bike is rtr fi. please guys do tell me that is our tacho wrong or all bikes fi/180 goes till 11k or higher is true rpm or just wrong ?

They are just jealous LOL. A lot of bikes have rev limiters near redline. But RTR 160 revs till 11-11.5k. 180 revs till 12k IIRC. It's not wrong or anything.

**Rtrlover83** · 07-08-2012, 02:21 PM

Originally posted by pcgamer View Post

They are just jealous LOL. A lot of bikes have rev limiters near redline. But RTR 160 revs till 11-11.5k. 180 revs till 12k IIRC. It's not wrong or anything.

Add to that, the RTR 180 does not have a rev limiter at all. If TVS did come up with the long before promised performance kit, the 9000~12,000 Rpm range would make a lot of sense. Afaik, TVS did not include the limiter for this reason. Not sure about this.

And another fact is the companies confidence in the short stroke screamer mill.

Ride Safe Y'all

**rio.acharya** · 07-08-2012, 02:24 PM

Originally posted by kantu View Post

I think some more things are missed out here.
First you need to disconnect the Fuel line (the one near petcock) then take out the bolt underneath the seat.
If you push the tank back towards the tail lights and lift it from the front you can see two wires beneath the tank. The big black one is a water hose pipe i think no harm in pulling it open other is an electrical wire can be disconnected easily. Now good to remove the tank. it helps if yo u are low on fuel.

yeah you are right forgot to mention the fuel sensor wire. it is connected to a connector (green color in A180) underneath the seat. disconnect this first before removing the tank otherwise if the tank is full of petrol it will be very difficult to do it afterwards.

**krrishi** · 07-08-2012, 02:42 PM

Originally posted by rio.acharya View Post

Thanks dude

Also i opened my TPS today. As drifty said it gives continuity in one part and doesnt in other parts of the throttle. But the thing is as per its design it should give continuity in higher rpms when the tps is pulled out fully and should not give continuity at lower rpms when the tps is pulled out slightly.

when i opened my tps it was full of dirt and water thats why it was giving resistance which can confuse the tci and hence the hiccups. I cleaned it thouroughly with soap water and petrol and let it dry. After installing back bike runs like a charm. The roar is back.

although it is a small and inexpensive piece which can be replaced any time it gets dirty but still i just wanted to share the knowledge.

Hi Rio,got inspired by your TPS cleaning session

& tried to do the same wid my RTR, just wanted to enquire with you as to how did you remove the TPS or rather disconnect it?i mean, i couldnt go beyond removing those 2 screws that hold it to the chassis

.the TPS & TCI are in sync as per my observation & i wanted to confirm the destination of the other end of the wire, whose one side, goes to the fuel knob

...would be really greatful to you if you can elaborate a bit on the TPS cleaning

..Thanks !

**rio.acharya** · 07-08-2012, 03:01 PM

you have to disconnect the connector circled in red. dont worry about where the connector goes to inside the wiring of your bike. and i would encourage not to mess with it either. disconnect the wire of TPS, remove the two screws and the TPS will be in your hands.

I dont quite understand what you mean by "the TPS & TCI are in sync" but yes technically the TPS signal goes to the TCI. This you can confirm in the electrical circuit diagram drawings in the A160 service manual.

After removing the TPS pry the black rubber thing out using a screwdriver. It is quite flexible. Then put a large screwdriver through the hole and pry open the back of TPS on the right side of the rubber in the picture. Careful it is glued, if you apply too much force then it might break then u will have to seal it with cellotape. After that clean it to your hearts content, if you have a multimeter check the wires for continuity and then put it back on the bike.

After which u may enjoy your new bike experience.

Also i forgot to click pictures of the dismantled TPS, if u r successful in opening it post the pics.

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