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Hero Moto Splendor/Joy/CD-Dawn/Passion

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  • Re: Hero Moto Splendor/Joy/CD-Dawn/Passion

    Try replacing the float pin in the carb and closing the fuel petcock atleast on parking for the night/ long periods . Overflowing fuel can also cause smoke at startup and poor starting and running , untill excess fuel burns off . Fuel trickling into cylinder also strips the oil film off cylinder walls . If oil level stays stable over a month or so , you are free from major worries . Your problem does not seem to be related with fuel mixture being rich or lean or cold start . Maybe oil circulation is not clear & instant upon startup - cleaning the rotor & mesh filters is a good idea . But anyway something is malfunctioning or just out-of-adjustment which we cannot locate from here . I am 99% that it's some dumb little thing - so keep checking out e v e r y t h i n g .

    Comment


    • Re: Hero Moto Splendor/Joy/CD-Dawn/Passion

      With inspiration for DIY & from the details and methodology of everything of my bike discussed in this thread, I opened the head of my 2006 splendor+ on 16.08.2014.
      Some observations regarding my bike have been:
      1. Very normal compression despite USHA block piston set for CD100 and new valves have been installed by my mechanic. Before that the bike was giving starting troubles, shutting down midway, had lost pick-up and giving a low mileage of 38.
      2. Spark plug is getting hard to remove thick black layer of carbon deposits. Its threads had engine oil in them. I had changed to a Mico high heat range spark plug to avoid weekly cleaning of the plug.
      3. For every 800 kms run, I had to top up 400 ml of engine oil.
      4. On cold starts, white smoke was coming out which reduced considerably after 2 minutes of engine running.
      5. Mileage was around 42 even after new bore kit.

      Hence I thought that first I should polish the valves again and replace the valve seals because they were left unchanged by my mechanic.

      Upon opening the head in the morning myself, I found approximately 1 ml engine oil before the piston. The valve mating surfaces were shiny and the exhaust one had some deep spots. One of the seals was broken near spring and both were loose along the valve stem. I did not find any perceptible space/ movement towards periphery of the block, when the piston was tried to be moved/ shaken for looseness. But presence of oil in the chamber is quite disturbing.

      I carefully cleaned the chamber, polished the valves, installed new valve seals and changed all the packing. I drained the engine oil (now it was very black though owing to periodic additions it was almost good) and filled with Shell Advance AX7. Finished.

      Satisfied as I did everything myself with your encouragement and guidance, of course.

      I drove it for 30 kms after this change. There has been an improvement in compression and pick-up.

      Today morning just out of curiosity, I removed the spark plug to find it Shining black again (not cleaned by moving finger over it nor left any mark on the finger) again. Today there was no small amount of white fume on cold start.

      Should I wait a little more to arrive at any conclusion or move ahead to install 0.25 rings? If so, will I need to change the piston as well to fit in the oversize rings?

      Awaiting expert guidance and directions........

      sent from M2 thru xBHPconnect
      Last edited by dumb0; 08-19-2014, 03:35 PM.

      Comment


      • Re: Hero Moto Splendor/Joy/CD-Dawn/Passion

        I am having CD DAWN 2009 Completed 39000kms on TVS stock tyres.
        I need to change it tyres can any member suggest make & approx. price. My tubes are good & new

        Comment


        • Re: Hero Moto Splendor/Joy/CD-Dawn/Passion

          Originally posted by dumb0 View Post
          With inspiration for DIY & from the details and methodology of everything of my bike discussed in this thread, I opened the head of my 2006 splendor+ on 16.08.2014.
          Some observations regarding my bike have been:
          1. Very normal compression despite USHA block piston set for CD100 and new valves have been installed by my mechanic. Before that the bike was giving starting troubles, shutting down midway, had lost pick-up and giving a low mileage of 38.
          2. Spark plug is getting hard to remove thick black layer of carbon deposits. Its threads had engine oil in them. I had changed to a Mico high heat range spark plug to avoid weekly cleaning of the plug.
          3. For every 800 kms run, I had to top up 400 ml of engine oil.
          4. On cold starts, white smoke was coming out which reduced considerably after 2 minutes of engine running.
          5. Mileage was around 42 even after new bore kit.

          Hence I thought that first I should polish the valves again and replace the valve seals because they were left unchanged by my mechanic.

          Upon opening the head in the morning myself, I found approximately 1 ml engine oil before the piston. The valve mating surfaces were shiny and the exhaust one had some deep spots. One of the seals was broken near spring and both were loose along the valve stem. I did not find any perceptible space/ movement towards periphery of the block, when the piston was tried to be moved/ shaken for looseness. But presence of oil in the chamber is quite disturbing.

          I carefully cleaned the chamber, polished the valves, installed new valve seals and changed all the packing. I drained the engine oil (now it was very black though owing to periodic additions it was almost good) and filled with Shell Advance AX7. Finished.

          Satisfied as I did everything myself with your encouragement and guidance, of course.

          I drove it for 30 kms after this change. There has been an improvement in compression and pick-up.

          Today morning just out of curiosity, I removed the spark plug to find it Shining black again (not cleaned by moving finger over it nor left any mark on the finger) again. Today there was no small amount of white fume on cold start.

          Should I wait a little more to arrive at any conclusion or move ahead to install 0.25 rings? If so, will I need to change the piston as well to fit in the oversize rings?

          Awaiting expert guidance and directions........

          sent from M2 thru xBHPconnect
          I didnt got the 3rd point " For every 800 kms run, I had to top up 400iI ml of engine oil."
          Is that before block change or after block change?
          It that was happening after block change then i can be 100% sure that the mechanic who did your work didnt did any good.
          He should have polished the valves with change of new valve oil seals is highly recommended as without proper sealing will not have better compression and without change of valve oil seals oil will obviously reach through to combustion area.
          I guess he also didnt used the original head gasket and new head o-rings. If original head gasket not used then it will have less compression and if head o-ring left unchanged then also engine oil will enter combustion chamber as the pressure of engine oil on bottom left stud will push the engine oil towards the combustion chamber.

          You did the right job by polishing the valves and replacing the valve oil seals and be advised that always use the original parts from ASC because all local parts never last longer and will always give a problem.

          How many kms you have ran on a new block? How is the compression?
          I guess you got the genuine block as there are also fakes of them in the market.
          If its original then its no problem. Only thing i doubt that your mechanic have placed the rings in correct position.
          Incorrect placements of rings will also lead to smoke.
          As you have done the work. Let it run like this and check for any further oil drops. Check the tip of exhaust for oil/black soot deposit. 0% smoke will leave very minimal clean and dry carbon on exhaust tip. Smoking engine will leave wet carbon deposit.

          For your knowledge
          If you move forward to change the rings to .25 then you will have to rebore it and new piston .25 oversize will require.
          Instead of doing this, only changing the piston rings to a standard size will also do your job. New piston rings with accurate position will increase the compression and will stop oil from coming to combustion chamber only if its really coming from there.

          But first check if you still have the same problem. Do test first then basis the outcome/results take the decision of what to do.

          I hope this addresses your concerns.
          | SOL 68s | Rynox Tornado Pro | Rynox Advento | Cramster TRG2 | Scoyco MC20 | Hero 5 and SJ6 |

          Adjusting Tappets FZ25 www.youtube.com/watch?v=VhiJGtd_Xigl
          Engine Oil & Oil Filter Change www.youtube.com/watch?v=9AZ5MlXF7dc

          Visit here for more DIY www.youtube.com/c/LifeofPal

          DIY - Foam Air filter Cleaning & Oiling / Horn Repair Guide / Replacing Motorcycle Fork Oil

          Read This Before You Buy Any Halogen Bulb
          Engine Overhaul

          Comment


          • Re: Hero Moto Splendor/Joy/CD-Dawn/Passion

            Originally posted by Pinaki View Post
            Replace oil before 2000kms , these little engines love fresh oil . If any gasket is has obvious leak ,replace it asap . Keep checking the oil level weekly and see if there is any noticeable fall . No need to worry about engine seizure and oil-burning etc unless a significant decrease in oil level is observed in a short while of riding . Oil dipstick is your friend


            When you tuned the carburetor , did you clean it too ? Was the float pin valve replaced ? Do you close the fuel petcock whenever bike is parked ?
            Also same as Akkiben , keep an weekly eye on your bike's oil level with dipstick .

            The plug recommended in my Splendor+(2010) book is NGK model CR7H-SA . However , now I am using the equivalent G-Power model CR7H-GP . Equivalent iridium is also available ( CR7H-IX ) but unnecessary expense .
            The advantage to the g-power I found is that it never needed any cleaning or re-gap in 8500 kms of use , the firing tip is always clean . In my book, zero jhanjhat for Rs 120 = great !
            Yes, very true. I changed the oil(Shell AX, 20W40) on Sunday and it would have been better with a bit of diesel flushing before pouring the new oil, now i see the new oil slightly contaminated.
            The spark plug recommended for my CD100 on the Owner's Manual say's a NGK C7HSA or a MICO U4A. Most spare parts retailers stare at me with surprise when asked for the rating, as though i asked them a dinosaur egg. Even the NGK site does not feature the rated plug, i finally walked into the trusted Hero Honda parts distributor and picked up a MICO U4A which they have in abundance. [MENTION=29030]Pinaki[/MENTION] Sir: Yes, the Dipstick surely is one honest friend who does not lie about oil level, keeping a close tab on that.
            Kinetic Honda ZX(2001)
            Hero Honda CD100(1997)
            TVS-Suzuki Shogun CAT(1998) Sold :(
            TVS Scooty ES(2001)
            Hero Honda Karizma ZMR(2010)
            RX135 4S(2000)
            RX135 5S(2000)
            IND-SUZUKI AX100(1985)
            LML-VESPA NV(1990) Sold
            TVS-Suzuki Shogun(1994)

            Comment


            • Re: Hero Moto Splendor/Joy/CD-Dawn/Passion

              The 3rd and all other four points were the observations after change of block kit. And to top it all, there has been wet carbon deposits on exhaust tip.

              How can one check whether the compression is the correct/ appropriate after change of block kit/ polishing of valve?

              Does timing chain setting, after opening the head, has any bearing on compression/ pick-up/ engine oil entry in combustion chamber?

              How can one judge the appropriate time to change the timing chain/ its guides and other associated parts?

              sent from M2 thru xBHPconnect

              Comment


              • Re: Hero Moto Splendor/Joy/CD-Dawn/Passion

                The machine has run for 2500 kms after change of block kit.

                sent from M2 thru xBHPconnect

                Comment


                • Re: Hero Moto Splendor/Joy/CD-Dawn/Passion

                  Originally posted by dumb0 View Post
                  The 3rd and all other four points were the observations after change of block kit. And to top it all, there has been wet carbon deposits on exhaust tip.

                  How can one check whether the compression is the correct/ appropriate after change of block kit/ polishing of valve?

                  Does timing chain setting, after opening the head, has any bearing on compression/ pick-up/ engine oil entry in combustion chamber?

                  How can one judge the appropriate time to change the timing chain/ its guides and other associated parts?

                  sent from M2 thru xBHPconnect
                  Im shocked to hear that oil problem. That must have been happened due to oil leak from head o-ring. When you opened it you could have noticed it. Normally it leaves oil residue in the area from where you can inspect and come to know if its leaking.
                  Anyways, checking of compression cannot be taught. But normally you would have seen a great difference in the pressure required to kick now compared to what was before block change.
                  Correct compression will require a lot pressure to kick start. A 16 year kid can have a hard time to start it.

                  One professional way to check compression is to use air pressure gauge in spark plug hole but you dont have to go deep into that. You can check kick and compare the compression of any splendor/cd dawn/passion in your friend circle or relative.

                  Timing chain setting have nothing to do with oil getting to combustion but it does effect compression & pickup if set incorrectly. It has to mark correctly. If set incorrectly by 1 teeth in either position back or forth then bike will starve to go beyond 60kph, it would take half of your throttle to touch 40kph. So if your bike is running fine then no problem.

                  Regarding life of chain, the original OE chain which was coming previously of Hero make was lasting approximately 10,000 kms. Now its coming of Diamond make that is more of higher quality than previously and dont know about its life but if i guess it should last at a minimum 20k kms to 30k kms approx. And its guide doesnt require change until wears and other associated parts were changed at the time of replacing with a new timing chain.
                  Last edited by paul.1911; 08-19-2014, 11:46 PM.
                  | SOL 68s | Rynox Tornado Pro | Rynox Advento | Cramster TRG2 | Scoyco MC20 | Hero 5 and SJ6 |

                  Adjusting Tappets FZ25 www.youtube.com/watch?v=VhiJGtd_Xigl
                  Engine Oil & Oil Filter Change www.youtube.com/watch?v=9AZ5MlXF7dc

                  Visit here for more DIY www.youtube.com/c/LifeofPal

                  DIY - Foam Air filter Cleaning & Oiling / Horn Repair Guide / Replacing Motorcycle Fork Oil

                  Read This Before You Buy Any Halogen Bulb
                  Engine Overhaul

                  Comment


                  • Re: Hero Moto Splendor/Joy/CD-Dawn/Passion

                    Paul is absolutely right , mine splendor is also smoking but in minimal or almost nil . It looks you missed or mis fitted or used same oil seal again . As a precaution always change oil seals , o rings and gasket , if needed use sealant too . Check piston rings mine are like 75% done but still hold compression well . But have to change it soon
                    Carb Tuning made easy (Thanks Sibun !)

                    Comment


                    • Re: Hero Moto Splendor/Joy/CD-Dawn/Passion

                      Originally posted by Akkiben View Post
                      Yes, very true. I changed the oil(Shell AX, 20W40) on Sunday and it would have been better with a bit of diesel flushing before pouring the new oil, now i see the new oil slightly contaminated.
                      The spark plug recommended for my CD100 on the Owner's Manual say's a NGK C7HSA or a MICO U4A. Most spare parts retailers stare at me with surprise when asked for the rating, as though i asked them a dinosaur egg. Even the NGK site does not feature the rated plug, i finally walked into the trusted Hero Honda parts distributor and picked up a MICO U4A which they have in abundance ..
                      The plug mentioned in your book is old non-resistor type . The current replacement for C7HSA is the CR7HSA . The extra R is because of a Resistor it has build-in to comply with new regulations . Just buy the current ngk CR7HSA and fit .

                      Never do diesel or any other engine-flush . If you want to promote oil circulation , clean the rotor filter and mesh filter .

                      Comment


                      • Re: Hero Moto Splendor/Joy/CD-Dawn/Passion

                        Originally posted by Pinaki View Post
                        The plug mentioned in your book is old non-resistor type . The current replacement for C7HSA is the CR7HSA . The extra R is because of a Resistor it has build-in to comply with new regulations . Just buy the current ngk CR7HSA and fit .

                        Never do diesel or any other engine-flush . If you want to promote oil circulation , clean the rotor filter and mesh filter .
                        Any particular reason for not flushing the engine?

                        Sent from my XT1033 using xBhp Connect mobile app
                        HYPERTHRUST CLEARED AND COUNTING
                        5.....4.....3....2.....1

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                        • Re: Hero Moto Splendor/Joy/CD-Dawn/Passion

                          Can I open the rings to rearrange their misfit and place them back again ? Or will they need replacement if removed from block?

                          I have used all original o-rings and packing.

                          sent from M2 thru xBHPconnect

                          Comment


                          • Re: Hero Moto Splendor/Joy/CD-Dawn/Passion

                            Originally posted by Bibhu View Post
                            Any particular reason for not flushing the engine?
                            my mechanic used to do this diesel flush (just run the engine without revving for half a minute with around 300ml diesel), and it never caused me a problem.That was 12 yrs ago.. maybe i have got wiser now. IMO if you are someone who sticks to periodic oil changes (2k-3k km) then this is not necessary.

                            Comment


                            • Re: Hero Moto Splendor/Joy/CD-Dawn/Passion

                              No need for using engine flush if you are using good quality oil and changing the oil as mentioned by the manufacturer.

                              Comment


                              • Re: Hero Moto Splendor/Joy/CD-Dawn/Passion

                                Originally posted by dumb0 View Post
                                With inspiration for DIY & from the details and methodology of everything of my bike discussed in this thread, I opened the head of my 2006 splendor+ on 16.08.2014.
                                Some observations regarding my bike have been:
                                1. Very normal compression despite USHA block piston set for CD100 and new valves have been installed by my mechanic. Before that the bike was giving starting troubles, shutting down midway, had lost pick-up and giving a low mileage of 38.
                                2. Spark plug is getting hard to remove thick black layer of carbon deposits. Its threads had engine oil in them. I had changed to a Mico high heat range spark plug to avoid weekly cleaning of the plug.
                                3. For every 800 kms run, I had to top up 400 ml of engine oil.
                                4. On cold starts, white smoke was coming out which reduced considerably after 2 minutes of engine running.
                                5. Mileage was around 42 even after new bore kit.

                                Hence I thought that first I should polish the valves again and replace the valve seals because they were left unchanged by my mechanic.

                                Upon opening the head in the morning myself, I found approximately 1 ml engine oil before the piston. The valve mating surfaces were shiny and the exhaust one had some deep spots. One of the seals was broken near spring and both were loose along the valve stem. I did not find any perceptible space/ movement towards periphery of the block, when the piston was tried to be moved/ shaken for looseness. But presence of oil in the chamber is quite disturbing.

                                I carefully cleaned the chamber, polished the valves, installed new valve seals and changed all the packing. I drained the engine oil (now it was very black though owing to periodic additions it was almost good) and filled with Shell Advance AX7. Finished.

                                Satisfied as I did everything myself with your encouragement and guidance, of course.

                                I drove it for 30 kms after this change. There has been an improvement in compression and pick-up.

                                Today morning just out of curiosity, I removed the spark plug to find it Shining black again (not cleaned by moving finger over it nor left any mark on the finger) again. Today there was no small amount of white fume on cold start.

                                Should I wait a little more to arrive at any conclusion or move ahead to install 0.25 rings? If so, will I need to change the piston as well to fit in the oversize rings?

                                Awaiting expert guidance and directions........

                                sent from M2 thru xBHPconnect
                                Let me add some of my views as [MENTION=53807]paul.1911[/MENTION] has beautifully explained everything. I have seen your post but was waiting to post in detail.

                                First of all i would ask, why did you use a CD 100 bore kit in splendor as both are different. CD 100 bore kit in splendor and the vice versa will cause a lot of problem.

                                Second thing is that either your new bore is defective or the ring placement is not correct. There are more fakes of USHA bore kit than OE in market. I think this is a duplicate kit. And to check the Rings open the bore and check the rings placement. Also check the ring gaps by physically placing the rings in bore and measuring the gaps at 2-3 points in bore. The gap should be in the range of 0.1-0.2 mm. Any more and bike will drink oil and smoke like crazy.

                                If there is oil in the piston that means oil is leaking through the bore. No second thoughts about it. I would request you to open the bore and check. Also check the connecting rod if it has vertical play. If there is vertical play that means the crank is gone and you have to reset it at lathe else go for new crank. By the way how much has your bike run.

                                Get a new bore kit from ASS, and while you get it get the splendor ones only and manually check gap before fitting. And rings placement are:-

                                1. Bottom oil ring- The gap will face towards the top right stud, i.e 30 degrees left to top most position

                                2. Expander ring- The gap will face to the top of piston with the edges of ring placed correctly pointing towards the skirt of piston

                                3. Top oil ring- The gap will face towards the right stud i.e 30 degrees right to top of piston.

                                4. Second compression ring- The gap will face to the bottom left stud i.e 30 degrees to the left of the bottom of the piston.This ring is important as it is a taper ring and fitting this ring upside down will cause the bike to smoke. Look on the rings and it will be written TOP 2 and that side will face up.

                                5. The top compression ring will be placed 90 degrees apart from the second ring i.e the opening will be placed towards the right stud i.e 30 degrees right from the top of piston.

                                I would ask you to get a hold of good mechanic and do it as any in-experienced hands will break the rings easily while fitting as they are quite hard. And use splendor bore kit that too OE( as USHA has too many fakes), in splendor.

                                Use splendor kit in Splendor/ passion.

                                Use CD 100 kit in CD 100, CD 100 ss, Joy, CD DAWN, DAWN, CD DELUXE and Sleek, street.

                                @ all- DO not flush the engine as it is not required. Modern day oils coe with enough detergents to keep the engine clean. Change oil timely and engine will be clean. You can see some photos of my engine overhaul few pages prior and the engine was not cleaned. But you can see how clean the engine was. This is because of timely oil change at every 1800-2000 km.
                                Photo of my joy- http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/854067-post963.html-3.88 lac km cont....Ownership review of my joy- http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/832255-post608.html- slowly updating as and when getting time. HERO HONDA CBZ EXTREME(2011) - 47K KM AND COUNTINGhttp://www.xbhp.com/talkies/motorcyc...tml#post904152-carb tuning guide

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