220 is a tyre eater...esp rear!

the jingling sound as i suspect is from the gear box..... experience from
dad's car at home...i very often hear a jingling sound from the gearbox area like dangling bangles...

Your very true...torque and soft compound tires arent that good off a match...

@ ALL GUYS/Pros


me bike going really strong and smooth....i still have the metal grinding sound once the engine is warmed up .....

the thing thats worrying me is , bike returning a mileage of 25-28kmpl ...
under conscious riding.. everyday morning I idle for 1 min.. i don think that would do much harm to fuel economy.or does it?..

one more habit i have is , after warm up , this is how i shift gears..

1st gear 12-17 kmph
2nd gear and 3rd gear 20-30 kmph
4th gear and 5th gear 30-40 kmph,...
in fifth gear im cruising at 40 .......... when i start off from my home, i have to travel 1.3 kms to get outta my locality...so i hate changing gears often...


is it ok to shift gears so fast ? i don really need to use the rev range that much... i do mostly city riding...help me with my mileage problem....

i never let the engine knock ... smooth riding ..i don stress the engine ...

Your very true...torque and soft compound tires arent that good off a match...[/QUOTE]

we forgot that he wants the front tyre....I would suggest to go for the stock tyre size; MRF, I know is not gr8 but suits the bike....

Well i stopped doing burnouts. My stock tyre actually last me only around 8k kms and from then i dragged till 14k. Iam basically a very hard braker. I have this interest to learn powerslide and keep on practicing that whenever iam on empty highways. Somehow not able to learn it. This pretty well eats up the tyre. Since my front tyre is almost worn out iam giving it some rest and relying on back a bit more. Now my braking is 70-30 previously it was 90-10.
Any soft compound tyre lasts very less. Forget the Sirac. I dont even know if its soft or not but has very very good grip. For you with pretty decent driving it may last around 10k at most. If u had taken the MRF Zappers they would have last around 15k easily for u.

+1...

Well my gearbox isnt in good shape. Any how i will get my gearbox checked the next time i visit pbk.

The metal grinding sound is the one way clutch. Even mine is kaput. U should get it under warranty.
For low mileage get the air filter checked. How many kms run after last service? Did u adjust CO recently?
Doesnt matter much in our cases when u shift. Makes a difference of around 3-4 kms. I shift at redline and still i get around 35+.

Hiiii guys my beasts 4th free service is arriving soon

so any 1 can temme that what are the parts sholud be changed in 4th free service[7-7.5KMS].

thankz in advance

Man you guys ride hard, and I'm told I ride hard

My stock tyres were changed at 25K, they lasted till 20-22K. I stretched it for a little more. Vyde was changed after 15K, it lasted only 10K though as its a soft compound tyre and I'd done a lot of highspeed long distance touring and off roading on that tyre. The Sirac has reached about 70% of life in 8K kms, but I've thrown some of the worst roads possible to it, so for 'normal' usage it should last a lot lot more.

For front tyres, I've found stock to be the best compromise of everything. The other options are

FZ- 100/80 - Straightline contact patch is less and hence braking might be an issue, cornering contact patch is lot more.

R15 - 80/90 - Super sticky tyre, but if you can live with the negative speedo reading then go for this.

IRC Wild Flare - 90/90 - This is a stock size tyre, but its designed to fit a wider rim so the profile is different from stock and is more like the FZ tyre. I am pretty satisfied with this tyre, its profile makes the bike a lot more flickable.

@TrullyPulsarian (I'll call you TP henceforth!) : Nothing needs to be changed in 4th service. I hope the fuel filter was changed in ur 3rd service, if not get that changed now.

Then what about disc pads???

Thats totally dependent on how your riding style is. I know some people who change it in 3K kms, at the other end of the spectrum I change my disc pads every 20K kms kms. Infact my rear disc pads went 28K kms for the last change.

I knew that u were a soft rider.
Anyways how is the Wildflare? I thought it was 100/80. Since i use only the front brakes when in straights i need very good straightline grip. FZ tyre was felling better than stock but couldnt throw it under all the conditions.
R15 is supersticky but since it isnt that wide how would it behave at corners on a p220? It would show higher speeds right?
How about Pirelli Sports Demon 90/90 or 100/80?

Check this also.
Man u are ultra-soft. 28k with the rear pads. Front last me 10k and rear hardly lasts me 4k.

Don't care if its soft riding or not, as long as it lasts long

Wildflare is pretty good, better than stock in most respect but the slower speeds shown can be demotivating at times.

The difference in cornering profile between the R15 tyre and stock would not be so much that you would notice any decrease. And the higher speeds shown is something which I dont want at all.

Never heard of the PSD coming in 90/90-17 variants.


Maybe you need to re-evaluate your riding style :P


Well now I am not sure of whats the exact amount and haven't read the manual either, but I'm sure its 10ml extra in each fork. I don't want to go any harder than this. This is optimum for the kind of riding I do, any harder and I'd end up with shoulder dislocations whilst off-roading

I'd only make it stiffer if I was riding only on a ultra smooth race track all the time.

If you want to improve the crappy handling get rid of the entire frame and suspension

Let me put it simply, firstly AFAIK the temperature variance inside the combustion chamber will not be too much for different riding conditions.

I am running the 9 & 7 combination for quite some time now, and I don't know what kind of stress conditions you are talking about but I've ridden my bike real hard and the plugs have held. And by real hard I mean clocking an avg speed of 100kmph for over 3 hours at a stretch, riding 200kms around a race track, etc etc....There has never been any issues on the plugs or combustion front. And my first set of NGK's lasted a good 29K before I changed them.

What should be the NitroX gas pressure in rear shocks? I plan to keep it at 110psi. Manual says 7.0+0.5 Kg/cm2 which is around 107psi. Will an extremely stiff suspension wear out soon?

[/QUOTE]

About the power sliding, i power slide only at rapidly increasing speeds from 1-40 kmph.... later on , cant do much. i get scared....

yeah get ur gear box checked

i dono if i explain the pbk , that they would understand bout the grinding sound...
my bike has done 2565 on the odo. last co tuning done two months back...

i checked the air filter... clean as usual....

I felt that my rear disc braking became some what less effective than earlier so i aksed that i have to change my disc pads.

hii

hey guys have been a member of xbhp since 2005, was out of touch and forgot my login id and password so made a new one.I currently ride a 180 dtsi v1 and am planning to upgrade.My heart is stuck on the 220 dtsi for sure(performance plus value for money) but off lately i have been following this thread and am realizing that bajaj is compromising too much on quality.Right from a faulty cdi unit to fairing vibrations to gear/clutch problems and lastly the screeching sounds from the disk brakes which makes me wonder is it really worth buying the 220?

Praful, I'm using 80/90, no speedo error..and that is for sure 100% guaranteed.

Whats the procedure to fill nitroX in suspension?? I asked the mechanic. He told me not to touch it, once the air is filled, its gonna leak so its gonna be a every time thing.


Just check there is a gap in the disc pads(kind of a line), if that is finished, then you have to change it otherwise it may damage the disc.


change your air filter and if needed fork oil.
Check your manual TP, everything is mentioned there, give a reading to it.