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**abhee** · 07-30-2011, 12:39 PM

Originally posted by mav1234 View Post

See the best and traditional method to check the Clutch plate wear and tear is to take out the clutch plates ( obviously after draining engine oil and taking out all nuts and bolts) and then measure the thickness of all the plates ( the pressure plates ) as well as the others. If the thickness is below the specified level(which when seen clearly can be found out ), then the clutch needs replacement.

But, But , But .. we people generally dont tend to see all these things, and we believe our conscience, that is , when the acceleration seems to have dropped, that means clutch plate needs replacement. But every time this is not always the case. There might be several other things which results in dropped acceleration.( which has been depicted in earlier pages )

Generally the clutch plate replacement varies. It depends on how you ride. If you engage disengage too often,or do a rapid clutch engagement, all contribute to low clutch life. So there is absolutely no life span for clutch life. Its all interdependent.. I have replaced my clutch plates at arnd 25K Kms. And one of my friend who also rides a 220 fi , replaced his first clutch plates at around 50K kms.

IMO better check the clutch plates and if it needs replacement do it, otherwise check out the other things that are leading to dropped acceleration.

Thanks Prashant......didn't notice your post earlier.
Will get it checked at PBK during the next service....

Originally posted by Praful View Post

Figure out what speed does the Dtsi 220 does at say 5K or 6K rpm in topgear. And check your bike's speed at the same RPM, if your clutch is bust then it will be showing lesser speed due to clutch slippage!

45K! Holy shite, Mine are generally finished by 20K, sometimes even earlier!!

Praful, i think at 5K its 80...... I have my rear as PSD 130/70...will that make a difference? BTW at 4k it stays at 63......

**Anoop Desai** · 08-01-2011, 12:17 AM

Originally posted by abhee View Post

Thanks Prashant......didn't notice your post earlier.
Will get it checked at PBK during the next service....

Praful, i think at 5K its 80...... I have my rear as PSD 130/70...will that make a difference? BTW at 4k it stays at 63......

Your bike is running on 130/70 where as for P220s the standard dimension is 120/80(for Dtsi atleast). I do not know about the P220 FIs, they are mostly the same as all the MRF Zappers i have seen are 120/80 on Pulsars.

Running on 130/70 profile gives you a better pick up and lower top speed.

**Mik** · 08-01-2011, 11:31 AM

A small update on my bike.
I had impressed upon the gurgaon probiking mechanics that i needed my T20 to be ultra reliable as it was getting ready for a ladakh ride. Suitably impressed, they checked the bike diligently.
Things replaced
The One Way in the Starter motor (It was giving weird noises)
A couple of sensors (Thats a given in my bike)
Taped up a few wires etc (Bike was having current leakage in the heavy rains)

Also, for the first time i used Motul 300V and i am loving it

The bike is now bhery bhery smooth and my preferred choice for the lazy office ride over my Estilo and a friends butter smooth zma i have at my disposal.

In totality, i have ended up spending close to 20k on the bike over the last three months

**Praful** · 08-01-2011, 11:37 AM

Whoa 20K for what all??

**Mik** · 08-01-2011, 11:54 AM

Originally posted by Praful View Post

Whoa 20K for what all??

Ha ha.. lots and lots of stuff
Major components being

Wire harness 2.7k
Sirac Rear 3k
Clutch plates
Cylinder block assembly (my fault. didnt notice that oil had drained off)
Three Dtsi oil changes (ran the dtsi oil for 1.6,1.3 and 1.4k km respectively and decided that it was pathetic)
Two liters of Motul 300V
and a host of things like decarbonization, replacement of wires, bucket full of sensors, spark plugs, low beam bulb, seat covers and 4 services.

Only one more thing required, a thermal sensor (not available at ggn probiking)
The next stage after the ladakh ride will be getting some of the joel stuff

**Praful** · 08-01-2011, 11:56 AM

Yeah, Even I've been waiting for the Engine Over heat sensor for the past 2-3 weeks. Mine went kaput after I rode it in non-stop rains for 6 days

Phew. New bore-piston kit as well. Nice, bike must be revving very very freely now

**Mik** · 08-01-2011, 12:05 PM

You bet!
Almost felt like bunking office and go off for a ride. This free revvy feeling is something i hadn't experienced in the last two years.

**Praful** · 08-01-2011, 12:16 PM

Originally posted by Mik View Post

You bet!
Almost felt like bunking office and go off for a ride. This free revvy feeling is something i hadn't experienced in the last two years.

Its the magic of the new graphite coated bore ala 220 Dtsi

**rx100.7050** · 08-01-2011, 12:27 PM

saley tum duno hi chup ho jao... am getting tempted

But will not be going for any major kharcha for atleast a year now

Seems like both of you are having good fun. Motul is quite a good engine oil.

**Praful** · 08-01-2011, 12:28 PM

^^ Don't fix it if its not broken

**rx100.7050** · 08-01-2011, 12:44 PM

Short update.

While starting the bike, sometimes it just makes a whizzing noise & bike doesn't start. After another attempt, it cranks up & starts. It doesn't happen on every occasion. On consulting with Sr Mechaninc at Kirti Nagar PBK, Dayaramji, he said the relay may need to be replaced.

Also, it seems handle is making a clicking sound when accelerating from low speed in 1st to 3rd gear. May be the ball bearings inside the steering cone set needs to be changed too. Going on a trip to Narkanda on Aug 13th. Need to get bike serviced. Will update the thread.

**forcooler** · 08-02-2011, 10:43 PM

Hi,

Just something i've noticed in my bike,wondering if it means anything.

The fuel priming noise(whiz) when starting the bike now comes for a significantly longer duration. (maybe 6-7seconds as compared to 3-4secs).

Also,sometimes,it the noise continues even AFTER the bike has started.

Could this mean something? A bad fuel pump unable to build pressure maybe?

Thanks.

**Praful** · 08-03-2011, 09:46 PM

Before the bike is started and you hit the engine kill switch to ON. The time taken is totally dependent on the amount of pressure already in the line. Suppose you are starting your bike after a very long time, then the time taken to prime the line will be significantly higher than when you have ridden the bike for a long while and start the bike again after a short break.

And the fuel pump is always running when your bike's engine is running.

**forcooler** · 08-04-2011, 01:09 AM

^^

alright..although when i said "takes longer" i meant longer compared in the same situation.(eg. in the morning maybe)

i know the fuel pump runs all the time,but i had never heard that whiz while the bike was idling before.

Anyway,as i said,it was just something i noticed,bike's running fine *touchwood* ,so no issues.

btw,got the pirelli(psd) front today

,seem better than the fz front,grip is ok,similar flicakbilty to the fz tyre ,but handle much much better in a straight line and at low speeds.

Thanks anyway

**mav1234** · 08-05-2011, 01:51 AM

Congrats for the Tyre..
Let it settle for around 150-200 Kms, after that you will praise the tyre much more.. It really sticks like a leech.

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