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Karizma/Karizma R Ownership Experience

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  • #16576
    Re: Tank Rust & Engine Leaks

    Originally posted by The Pain View Post
    Thanks man will check tomorrow. It fell on the edge of the crown so got dented. Im becoming a damn klutz in my old age lol.

    Whats the next best brand of piston if stock HMC ones are not available?
    USHA , Goetze --some mechs even say 'sam' (samkrgpistons - hyderabad based) pistons are good enough. some of the users here have reported usha to be the better amongst the lot.

    Comment

    • #16577
      Re: Tank Rust & Engine Leaks

      Originally posted by s1d View Post
      USHA , Goetze --some mechs even say 'sam' (samkrgpistons - hyderabad based) pistons are good enough. some of the users here have reported usha to be the better amongst the lot.

      Will check with the svc tomorrow. Thanks Bud!
      Most motorcycle problems are caused by the nut that connects the handlebars to the saddle!

      Comment

      • #16578
        Re: Tank Rust & Engine Leaks

        Originally posted by The Pain View Post
        Will check with the svc tomorrow. Thanks Bud!
        And oh i forgot to mention 'mahle' pistons.. they were pretty good.. had used them on some two strokers a long time ago.

        Comment

        • #16579
          Re: Tank Rust & Engine Leaks

          Originally posted by The Pain View Post
          Hi,

          Quick question guys, i had picked up a new karizma bore kit for a friend this afternoon. Unfortunately, i just dropped the piston on the ground and its dented on the crown edge . Is it possible to get standard size pistons from the service center directly or is the only option to use an aftermarket piston.

          What is the best way to go on this? Whats the approximate price of a new standard size piston?

          Damn i feel like kicking myself for dropping the piston

          If possible change the borekit from where you bought? Reason is that, every bore and piston is being matched for its clearance. If you buy a piston (std) for your block from shop, you might end up with irregular clearance. Usually the factory matches the bore piston and they have a marking say A, B, C etc. Atleast I know this is how Escorts and Yamaha do. And I'm sure this applies else where too.
          RX100 1996 | Karizma 2004 | Karizma-R 2011 | RXZ 1999 | RX 135 1998 | RX 100 1993 | CBF150 2005 - 2011

          2012 - Meghamalai | Kuttralam | 2011 Ooty | Munnar | 2010 Point Calimere | Horsley Hills | Yercaud

          Comment

          • #16580
            Re: Karizma/Karizma R

            Can somebody confirm if the new Zma rear sprocket sleeve and bearings are a direct swap on the old model. Had asked the ASC guy about this , but they arent sure since they haven't received catalogues or the material in real to check it, but they are telling it mihht be changed. Also that swing arm bushes are changed in the new model. Checking if the Oring chain sprocket kit can be a direct replacement and plonking a wider 120 section tyre. The guys at the asc near my place are not well informed regarding this.

            P.S: im sorry if the point has been discussed. Have gone through few pages , couldn't find it.
            Stories of the open road...........

            Comment

            • #16581
              Re: Tank Rust & Engine Leaks

              Originally posted by SriramEfunds View Post
              If possible change the borekit from where you bought? Reason is that, every bore and piston is being matched for its clearance. If you buy a piston (std) for your block from shop, you might end up with irregular clearance. Usually the factory matches the bore piston and they have a marking say A, B, C etc. Atleast I know this is how Escorts and Yamaha do. And I'm sure this applies else where too.
              Not possible to return cos I checked the bore and piston in front of them at the asc.

              I was wondering the same thing regarding matching clearances like in the Yamaha or Shogun kits but didn't see any visible markings.

              Is this still an issue for relatively newer modern day 4 stroke cylinder kits?

              Can anyone shed any light on this? Thanks

              From my LG-G2 via Tapatalk.
              Most motorcycle problems are caused by the nut that connects the handlebars to the saddle!

              Comment

              • #16582
                Re: Tank Rust & Engine Leaks

                Hi,

                Did some checking about, the following pistons are available :

                SAL (Hero Honda Packing)
                Goetze
                SAM

                Which one would be the best to pick up? The original piston that came with the bore is a SAL2.

                Tried looking for an USHA piston after reading some of the old posts, but couldnt find this anywhere.

                Is anyone able to source an USHA standard piston for me if available. Will pay all costs involved via bank transfer.

                Thanks!
                Last edited by The Pain; 07-17-2014, 07:25 PM.
                Most motorcycle problems are caused by the nut that connects the handlebars to the saddle!

                Comment

                • #16583
                  Re: Tank Rust & Engine Leaks

                  Originally posted by The Pain View Post
                  Hi,

                  Did some checking about, the following pistons are available :

                  SAL (Hero Honda Packing)
                  Goetze
                  SAM

                  Which one would be the best to pick up? The original piston that came with the bore is a SAL2.

                  Tried looking for an USHA piston after reading some of the old posts, but couldnt find this anywhere.

                  Is anyone able to source an USHA standard piston for me if available. Will pay all costs involved via bank transfer.

                  Thanks!
                  If this is not URGENT, then I can try looking around in Chennai.
                  RX100 1996 | Karizma 2004 | Karizma-R 2011 | RXZ 1999 | RX 135 1998 | RX 100 1993 | CBF150 2005 - 2011

                  2012 - Meghamalai | Kuttralam | 2011 Ooty | Munnar | 2010 Point Calimere | Horsley Hills | Yercaud

                  Comment

                  • #16584
                    Re: Tank Rust & Engine Leaks

                    Originally posted by SriramEfunds View Post
                    If this is not URGENT, then I can try looking around in Chennai.
                    Thanks bud. No its not urgent at all. Take ur time

                    From my LG-G2 via Tapatalk.
                    Most motorcycle problems are caused by the nut that connects the handlebars to the saddle!

                    Comment

                    • #16585
                      Re: Tank Rust & Engine Leaks

                      Originally posted by The Pain View Post
                      Hi,

                      Did some checking about, the following pistons are available :

                      SAL (Hero Honda Packing)
                      Goetze
                      SAM

                      Which one would be the best to pick up? The original piston that came with the bore is a SAL2.

                      Tried looking for an USHA piston after reading some of the old posts, but couldnt find this anywhere.

                      Is anyone able to source an USHA standard piston for me if available. Will pay all costs involved via bank transfer.

                      Thanks!
                      If the oem bore hit came with SAL pistons, I think maybe it would be better to stick to a SAL piston rather than usha.
                      Usha's bore and piston are supposed to be 'harder' (that's what I have read about them) , so maybe using a usha piston in a sal block might cause more than normal wear on the bore... no? Maybe I am just thinking too much..

                      Comment

                      • #16586
                        Re: Tank Rust & Engine Leaks

                        Originally posted by s1d View Post
                        If the oem bore hit came with SAL pistons, I think maybe it would be better to stick to a SAL piston rather than usha.
                        Usha's bore and piston are supposed to be 'harder' (that's what I have read about them) , so maybe using a usha piston in a sal block might cause more than normal wear on the bore... no? Maybe I am just thinking too much..
                        Dont know which ones but Hero changed the make of the oe pistons and there were a lot of complaints about the new brand. Especially since they altered the oe afr setting to 2.5 and the engine was heating more and faster. Piston seizures forced them to change the brand. Dunno what they are using now. Usha has been trusted for a long time.

                        Sent from my SM-G7102 using Tapatalk
                        sigpic

                        Comment

                        • #16587
                          Re: Tank Rust & Engine Leaks

                          Originally posted by acs1207 View Post
                          Dont know which ones but Hero changed the make of the oe pistons and there were a lot of complaints about the new brand. Especially since they altered the oe afr setting to 2.5 and the engine was heating more and faster. Piston seizures forced them to change the brand. Dunno what they are using now. Usha has been trusted for a long time.
                          yes, suppliers keep changing (for various reasons including quality being one of it).. sometimes a particular component might have multiple suppliers as well.
                          my only paranoia was using a bore from SAL and piston from USHA (considering the silicon content in USHA's bore/piston making it harder & no such specific info is available on the SAL metallurgy ) .
                          Maybe Ravi@17bhp can throw some light on this.. he had re-bored his stock block and used a USHA piston

                          Comment

                          • #16588
                            Re: Tank Rust & Engine Leaks

                            Originally posted by s1d View Post
                            yes, suppliers keep changing (for various reasons including quality being one of it).. sometimes a particular component might have multiple suppliers as well.
                            my only paranoia was using a bore from SAL and piston from USHA (considering the silicon content in USHA's bore/piston making it harder & no such specific info is available on the SAL metallurgy ) .
                            Maybe Ravi@17bhp can throw some light on this.. he had re-bored his stock block and used a USHA piston
                            I had rebored mine with an Usha piston as well...a p220 .25 . Gave me no problem for more than 10k kms.

                            I think Usha was oe for a long time till they changed.

                            Sent from my SM-G7102 using Tapatalk
                            sigpic

                            Comment

                            • #16589
                              Re: Tank Rust & Engine Leaks

                              Originally posted by s1d View Post
                              yes, suppliers keep changing (for various reasons including quality being one of it).. sometimes a particular component might have multiple suppliers as well.
                              my only paranoia was using a bore from SAL and piston from USHA (considering the silicon content in USHA's bore/piston making it harder & no such specific info is available on the SAL metallurgy ) .
                              Maybe Ravi@17bhp can throw some light on this.. he had re-bored his stock block and used a USHA piston
                              Originally posted by acs1207 View Post
                              Dont know which ones but Hero changed the make of the oe pistons and there were a lot of complaints about the new brand. Especially since they altered the oe afr setting to 2.5 and the engine was heating more and faster. Piston seizures forced them to change the brand. Dunno what they are using now. Usha has been trusted for a long time.

                              Sent from my SM-G7102 using Tapatalk
                              Thanks for replying guys. I think the new suppliers are SAL. Cos the bore kit has the manufacture date of May 2014. Also the company packed pistons being sold alone are SAL as well.

                              So the doubts now for me are:

                              - Is each piston matched to a specific bore kit/batch of bore kits (from a matching clearance POV)
                              - Is it wise to use a different brand piston with a SAL kit due to different metallurgies

                              Im leaning towards picking up the USHA piston cos its apparently the best quality kit.
                              [MENTION=11210]ravi@17bhp[/MENTION] your inputs would be really appreciated cos ur running a USHA piston on the SAL cylinder. Thanks.
                              Most motorcycle problems are caused by the nut that connects the handlebars to the saddle!

                              Comment

                              • #16590
                                Re: Tank Rust & Engine Leaks

                                Originally posted by The Pain View Post
                                Thanks for replying guys. I think the new suppliers are SAL. Cos the bore kit has the manufacture date of May 2014. Also the company packed pistons being sold alone are SAL as well.

                                So the doubts now for me are:

                                - Is each piston matched to a specific bore kit/batch of bore kits (from a matching clearance POV)
                                - Is it wise to use a different brand piston with a SAL kit due to different metallurgies

                                Im leaning towards picking up the USHA piston cos its apparently the best quality kit.
                                @ravi@17bhp your inputs would be really appreciated cos ur running a USHA piston on the SAL cylinder. Thanks.
                                USHA is good as a 'KIT' (bore+piston)
                                Just pick up the oem sal piston and you shouldn't have any problem. It would be the best bet since it would be more closely matched to the sal block than a usha piston. Reboring and using a piston is different from using it out of the box on a standard block..during rebore you have some control over the tolerances.Pls note Ravi's was rebored & not a stock new block..and i am not even sure if it was a sal block

                                Comment

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