Re: Karizma/Karizma R

For OE bore kit SAL is the supplier to all models. But the rings are supplied by either GOETZE or USHA. Sometimes pistons are also supplied By USHA or GOETZE. I will ask the retailer here if there is USHA bore kit for Karizma or not. I will then confirm.

Yes my Joy was running with USHA bore kit and my god it was awesome. Although my crank was gone still also the bore has run 80k kms and the compression was still hard like new. The engine was not consuming a single drop of oil and bike was running fully free. When i installed new crank which i had documented in the JOY thread a few weeks back, i had to change the bore as the worn crank had wore out the bore one sided. Didn't get USHA as no stock was there and used OE.

But here i would like to add that compared to last time when i went for USHA bore this time the OE kit are more than 100% better than OE kit in those times. The new OE kit rings have negligible gap of 0.2 mm in them, and the piston is tight in bore with no side play even without rings. Overall was same in quality as USHA kit. Have run 2500 km on OE kit and bike is performing beautifully with mileage hovering at around 80+-2 kpl in city. Will check tommorrow and let you know.

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

Hello everyone, I own a Karizma which is now over 10yrs old but unfortunately haven't ridden it as much. And now its showing age and I don't want to get rid of the bike. Instead, I want to fix it.
It has all sorts of issues, be it electrical, mechanical, cosmetic, etc. But to start with I wanted to fix the working parts of it and kinda restore the bike.




-The first pic shows the rusted exhaust pipe to the worst imaginable condition. What can be done to get this sorted and make sure it doesn't happen again?

-Next two pics show the oil leak from between the cylinder and crankcase. And the metal being worn out or something. The dotted white dots on the engine is something I am clueless about and wanna get it all cleaned and maybe have it painted in some matt/powder coat, not very sure what.

-The last pic shows deposited oil at the tappet cap and its something I face constantly. I had gotten the cap and o-rings changed in the past but the leak start again in no time. Have a better or permanent solution to this?

-One more thing, I not happy with the braking of the bike. I have gotten the front brakes bled again and again but looks like its time to upgrade to Braided Brake Lines. Any suggestions?


I am not very good when it comes to knowing all the right terms and names of various parts so bear with me. Monsoon is here and I am annoyed that I dint et the bike fixed earlier, wish to ride this season. Do help out with whatever you can. Thanks.

Anybody have any idea of rates of fiber parts of zma ? I have an offer of 2nd hand parts. All fiber parts...front left n right, middle left n right, rear left n right. ASAP.

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Oops..wrong info. They were zmr parts..n slightly damaged.

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Re: Karizma/Karizma R

Guys I am having some problems with my bike. There is some electrical issue which I can't figure out, the starter doesn't work. Neither any of the dials and indicators. I checked the battery is fine and even the fuse is fine. It feels like there is some kind of shorting in the system. So if there is anyone who has faced a problem like this so please let me know.
Any suggestions is appreciated

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Re: Karizma/Karizma R

It is possible to restore zma to showroom condition. Start with thoroughly cleaning the exterior of bike with detergent and mechanical areas with kero/diesel.

1 . For rusted pipe , use a sand paper and rub for a while, if material falls off very much then its near to nothing. But it wont be that bad i think , sanding nd a layer of high heat paint will take care , or layer of redoxide paint but i am not sure red oxide will hold due heat. The white dots i think are oxidation of aluminium bores , happens over time.

2.There is gasket between them i think it has failed , apply some sealant between crankcase and cylinder and make sure surfaces are smooth and even otherwise gasket wont seal properly hence the sealant.

3. The threads of head holding tappet cover are either damaged or the area around the thread ( circular peripheri ) use original Hero cap and O ring and use sealant on thread .

4.Change pads if old than 3-4 yrs , Use DOT4 oil if zma if applicable . Grease caliper pins with silicone grease.

is dipstick broken ? Change that too .

5. Change oil , air filter , spark plug. Clean chain , lube . Clean tank & carb if not done in 2-3 yrs.

This all will make bike driveable and then you can do all other jobs.

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

Replied in bold. Need further clarifications...Thanks

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

1. i have no idea on how to remove those white dots, problem is rubbing inside fin area is hard, only way i can see is changing bore and head exterior but it will cost bomb and its best if pipe is left OE , chroming will create problems further.

2. It is called gasket sealant , a kind of glue that is applied on gasket before installation to seal irregularities of surface.

3. This sealant is different it is a silicone sealant is guess that is used on threads.

4. Try changing brake oil and bleeding first , then if still unsatisfactory more options can be looked upon.

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

Hi people,
Thanks a ton for helping out to set the AFR. Right now I'm trying to change my rear tyre for the monsoon, since the stock Zapper is a skid freak. Locally available tyres (in Chennai) that I've found so far are the Ceat Gripp and Sirac Street. As for the Sirac it was recommended to me by two shops but the reviews on xbhp have been mixed and generally negative ever since TVS started producing them so I'm not inclined to pick them. As for the Ceat tyres, there aren't too many reviews but in general they seem positive. Only I haven't found many models, only Gripp seems easily available. As for MRF I dont want to sink more money into their tyres given the stock MRF's performance However if they are truly superior to CEAT do recommend them. I'm basically interested in good grip in both wet and dry conditions, mainly on city roads but one often finds gravel, sand, slush and large potholes in cities as well.. Please do suggest based on you experiences. I tried reading old posts but they mostly contradicted each on the subject of the Sirac street and hardly anyone discussed CEAT tyres.

Hey guys,

I've not been active on this forum, please excuse me for that. Lately, I've observed that during cold start, I observe white smoke being emitted from the silencer. My Zma (2010) has done 52k Kms so far. Anything I should worry about? There's no drop in performance or mileage. Just this thing is intriguing.

Looking for replies/suggestions.

Cheers,

Karthik


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Hey there.

I've used ceat gripp, mrf meteor and the stock zapper on my zma. The worst of the three is the stock zapper. Meteor and ceat gripp are pretty good tyres. I've done about 8k Kms on ceat gripp and about 7k Kms on the meteor, no complaints as such. Sirac is good as well, although I haven't used it much, I've heard good things about it.

Cheers,

Karthik



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Re: Karizma/Karizma R

Thanks man, very useful info. Any idea about how these may compare against vyde? Also some say Gripp isn't suited to cornering, is this true?

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

No idea about the vyde. But I've had fair amount of fun with ceat gripp. Actually I had changed the front tyre to 19" and rear to 17" wire spoke setup. Had used the impulse tyres on them. Cornering was ok. Been to ooty twice and yercaud. Ghat sections were no sweat at all.

Cheers,

Karthik


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Re: Karizma/Karizma R

Thanks again, youre the only one who replied(the forum is unusually dull) and you have very useful info.

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

I guess you would have changed the sproketting as well with the change to 17 . As for the front swap..now the speedo might be showing lower speeds.

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Re: Karizma/Karizma R

Yes you're right. Calibrating the speedo was a nightmare and wasn't accurate at all. When it started being accurate it was too late. I had decided to change back to original setup. Rear sprocket was stock.

I got rid of it due to the shoddy job and stiff front fork.

Cheers,

Karthik


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Re: Karizma/Karizma R

Stiff fork happens because of the increase in tire weight. For speedo you could have tried the drive from RE. They are the only ones using 19 size tires..right?

On Grand 2