Re: Oil drain nut replacement

I went to the Ceat distributorship today and bought the Zoom F and Zoom (Rear) tyres.
Apparently the Zoom R is also tube type for 100/90/18.
You can check the photograph of Ceat's current motorcycle tyres here http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/universa...tml#post994358 .

Re: Oil drain nut replacement

First service done today..Mechanic had no clue about my problem, even he is not accepting that there is a problem.He is saying that its vibrations of body but how can this vibration fade away after ride of 20-30kms if its body vibrations.I am assuming these reasons-

1) Oil pump issue- oil is taking more time to flow than normal when engine is cold
2) Too lean air fuel mixture- Engine is knocking during cold starts ( as fuel vaporises faster than required during initial cold starts)
3) Too loose tappets- during cold starts its hitting and when engine warm up sound become normal

Please suggest me guys what to do as I am having sleeplessnes nights.I have bought ZMA with too much expectations.Should I report this issue to other ASC.

Re: Oil drain nut replacement

Did you try checking your AFR settings yourself? (All the way in - clockwise, and three full turns out + half a turn for good measure). Remember to keep track of your original setting.
Loose tappets sound like stitching/a sewing machine. Please listen and compare before coming to any conclusion.
If the ASC does not respond to you, you should definitely escalate the issue.

Re: Oil drain nut replacement

Do you guys know what bore size carburetor is being used on Karizma?

Re: Oil drain nut replacement

Hey Ankit, Don't worry...you ve got a great bike! You need to use choke when starting from cold. Retain half choke for the first 500metres of your ride and then close the choke. Then check for carb settings as mentioned by AK3D. Then check for fuel efficiency vs power delivery..ignoring the noise. Compare the noise side-by-side with another ZMA-R. Ask, don't request, your service centre to check tappets and inform your service centre manager. What was your previous bike? All big bikes >150cc are a noisy bunch...as long as they perform well and return expected fuel efficiency....don't mess with them unnecessarily.

Re: Oil drain nut replacement

Thanks Bro for advice...I did not played wuth AFR settings.I know I will disturb stock settings.
Sound is like khad khad, something loose and hitting in engine, something on the verge to broke ( but only initial 10-12kms of ride) after that engine behaves normal.

Hey thanks pitbull..ur words has given me some relaxation.Will do choke thing as you suggested and compare with other new ZMA.
even ASC manager not ready to accept that there is a problem in cold starts ride.
I had Honda Unicorn previously.

Re: Oil drain nut replacement

Though I am not completely judging that your bike doesn't have any problem, Karizma is not as silent as Unicorn. Karizma's engine makes noise but its refined. Unicorn has the most silent engine ever in India so far. For cold starts, use choke and start, I do the same all the time. The purpose of choke is for cold starts only. Apply full choke for 10-15 seconds (rpm goes beyond 3k) and then for the next 30-45 seconds use half choke (put the choke lever in mid position, now the rpm idles around 2k). This whole process takes around a minute and then start riding slowly, without burst acceleration, for the next 2 kms, and then use the bike normally. This will ensure proper warm-up of the engine and will ensure that engine is properly warmed up for regular riding. NOTE: Don't ride the bike with half choke.

Re: Oil drain nut replacement

That says it all. Honda Unicorn is silky smooth and one of the most silent of bikes. So you would naturally feel a bit harshness in the new bike. You will in time get accustomed to the sound of the bigger more powerful engine. It happens with horns too among other things. Dont freak out!


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Re: Oil drain nut replacement

My uni is noisy and harsh compared to my brothers and not as powerful too, Mech says if I replace my valves and timing chain the performance and smoothness will return, is that true?

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Re: Oil drain nut replacement

[MENTION=32286]psr[/MENTION] sir.

Current status.

Bike has been left out idle for a long while and the choke lever is stuck, but fortunately the stock battery has enough juice to self start it, though we have to press the started for like 5~6seconds for the bike to come to life, but this is normal I assume considering the fact that the bike was left idle.

Issue at hand.

When the bike gets warm there will be a small missing at 1/4th throttle, and when the bike gets really hot, the bike will die when we come to a halt, but it would start up after that, but when throttle is given it would die again, the same thing is repeated, unless the bike is allowed to cool down for a while, after which bike works as normal, untill it gets hot again.
In short the bike is good to ride for distances upto 100kms.

BlackPanther has sourced the insulator for me, I'll be collecting it from him tomorrow, though the O ring couldnt be sourced.

Now I dont have the secondary injection system and the pipe coming from the Carb that goes into the T junction is directly connected to the insulator. Is that in anyway the cause of my problems?
Its been like this for a while now and its really getting on my nerve, unless I can bring the bike back to its former glory, I wont be able to ride it back with me. :'(

Re: Oil drain nut replacement

If the present running is with choke then all the problems you are posting is directly connected to it....if the choke had returned to rest in normal closed position, then check for loose contact in the ignition on/off switch...if the switch develops lose contact, then CDI will not be able to get enough current when you accelerate...To rule out this problem try turning the ignition switch on.off a few times then see if the problem goes away......this happens specifically with ZMAs not used often.....
You can also check for loose contact in the 3 fuses under the seat...esp., the center one marked Ign of 7.5 amps.

Re: Oil drain nut replacement

Guys, Problem sorted out but not by this illiterate ASC, sorted out in one go by my old Uni mechanic and you all will be surprised to know-

Engine mounting bolts on RHS clutch side near swing arm was moving freely on its axis, mechaniic just tighten bolts and all vibrations gone, now thank god and feeling soooo relax.
What to do with showroom and ASC, whole day I spent at service station with mechanic but he was not able to identify rather not willing to solve the problem,I have lost all trust with this ASC. Can i complain this to showroom owner or Hero motocorp?

Re: Oil drain nut replacement

My gosh...that's a catch! no one would have imagined a lose engine mounting bolt during 1st service.... anyway, enjoy your bike well now..

Re: Oil drain nut replacement

Nope choke cant be used, cause the lever is stuck in closed position. I'll check the wiring today and if possible will replace the Dist. cap and SP, also thinking of replacing all the fuses.
Last time bike stalled I had cleaned the CDI contacts, no difference was noted though.

And sir, my doubt is that, since the bike stalls only when hot, am still considering the possibility of an air leak.

Re: Oil drain nut replacement

Hi sir..

Hope you remember me.. I too had faced bit similar problem and it was because of the 7.5A fuse. All the electricals went off and I had to use kick start to start the bike. But I did learn the importance of that small fuse box under the seat which controls all the electricals of the bike with just 3 fuses (I do have fourth one in relay for the HID light). Yesterday my horm wasnt working, checked the wires.. everything was alright.. then opened the seat and checked the fuse.. the first was one almost out of the shape(melted) had to take it out forcefully...changed the fuse and magic.. Horn started working