Mine compleyted 1720 as of now. Did 115 today. And things were strange as usual. Today I made a strange discovery that my ride doesnt rev hard, in simple word I normaly ride only using 2/5th of my accelerator, but today went for the whole 5/5 and was surprised to notice that the bike didnt jump, I may be saying this cause of my lack of experience but it did seem strange, cause though the bike picked up speed in a lazy pace, it still didnt have the racing punch.

Sir, by lower fairing do you mean the belly cowl??
And you'r exact regarding the braking thingi(7:3). When doing speeds above 60 always squeez the front. When the bikes about to come to a halt, release the front and jam the rear.

Will take just a few minutes to get the tensioner replaced. And new zma's come with the pricol problem free tensioners(same used in zmr). Sorry for not being able to take pics while they replaced mine, cause me and aneesh were busy stalking the mysterious white beauty(zma@zmr).

From what I've heard the front brakes are to be used like guns... Dont ya remember the old movies(max panyne nd all.) In which the hero says. Dont pull the trigger, SQUEEZE IT!!!

You'll have to get the bike real hot to hear the chil chil sound.
And dont be afraid of the first spill, cause from experience I'd say it gives you "EXPERIENCE". Cause right after my first spill. I raced home and experimented on my brakes, even before cleaning up or anything. And guess what, I found out the perfect setting for my brakes, by tweaking the rear and calculating pressure on the front such that as psr sir said 7:3 ratio is maintained. I believe it was god(literally cause I was returning from temple) who caused the spill cause I'd realise my mistake, and If I'd made the same mistake while I was going fast(I was going at 60 when the thing happened, Guess am lucky) then for sure I'd not been here sharing my experience.

replies in bold.

i too have the same problem,the sound emanates when the bike is hot and is at 4k rpm,when i showed it to two mechanics,one of them said that it is due to improper fuel ratio,the otherone said that the timing pad in the zma is slightly broken and it oscillates making the sound.

As many here would be knowing my ride had a full change of parts inside the engine head 3 weeks back. Checked out my AFR this weekend and it was around 6-7 turns. Guess the mech had made it rich for the K&N. No wonder my fuel efficiency was around 25 km/L under very sane riding(run in period). Also the engine was not peppy enough. The run in of 500 km is over now. Set it to 4 turns now and she returned 30 km/L with a bit harsh riding in the city. She was super quick when in 4 turns and very responsive! Now have set it to 3.5 and testing.

Good to know that the bike is as it should be...I remember Amit posting that when he switched to K&N his AFR was set at 8 turns,which he corrected later. I presume you had shifted to stock air filter now and hence require 4 turns + or- 1 turn as you like it.

Mixed bag of experience of my First long drive

Sunday Morning I went for a long drive from my place near Mekhri circle to Hesaraghatta Lake along with some friends (6 of us in 3 two wheelers) . We went out at 7:15 am.
The road to Hesaraghatta had some good patches where I could enjoy my ride. The bike performed quite well with decent pick up and great handling. When we reached the lake we saw it to be completely dry. So we went inside it some 1 km through bumpy lake bed. Just when I reached the center I faced a scary issue. The bike started producing weird sound. I tried switching of the bike by switching of the ignition but though the engine seemed like switched off the weired periodic sound just won't go. When I switched the key on the bike started by itself without me pressing electric start or kick start. At this point of time I was scared to hell. I then switched off the petrol knob. After some time it got switched off and the sound was gone. Then started the second phase of my horrendous experience.
When I switched on the ignition again nothing worked, no digital display, no horns, lights, not even electric starter. I tried starting the engine by giving it kick start but it just won't work. We tried pushing the bike and releasing the clutch in gear but to know use. We called the receptionist who had done my transactions and asked for some technicians number. She reluctantly gave the number. Through his input one of my friend who had a little knowledge opened the battery chamber and checked the fuse. No problem there. We then saw a loose connection in one of the wires. But we didn't have the equipments to tighten it. My friend then went to hesersghatta town to bring mechanic and after a long search due to lunch time he found one willing to come. All this time I was pushing this 150 kg piece of metal through this lake bed. The mechanic came , did some inspection and found battery to be drained out and the cable which was loose to be that of self start. Now things started becoming clear to us. He took battery out of activa and used it to start my bike. He then took the bike with me and another friend in backseat to his shop and charged the battery there and tightened the screws. After that my bike was back to normal and had a sigh of relief.
Yesterday I took it to ASC and gave the person whom I had talked over phone full description. I forced him to check everything again and make sure such things never happen again. When I shouted at him as why such loose connection creeps up in a100 km run bike he started giving lame reasons as it is responsibility of PDI team and all. If I suffer any such problem due to any lacking from their side I will have to take them into serious business.
By the way on the way back I had a terrific time with a perfect climate and beautiful roads before I came back to horrible city traffic.

P.S.: While the mechanic and two of us were going to his shop, he ripped the bike a lot. At one point of time I asked him not to rip when he was touching 8K RPM but still he was always touching 5K RPM I generally don't go above 4 K. When we reached his shop which was some 4 km away white smoke was coming out of the exhaust. I just hope not much damage has been done.

Royzone from what you are saying it is definitely a case of your STARTER RELAY getting stuck in " ON " condition, and totally draining the battery...
Please check for jammed starter button in handle bar, or else the problem could be with relay...so be prepared for a repeat experience....your bike did not start either with kick or with push, because the starter motor was engaged by the relay, and the stator developed Voltage for start was used by the starter motor.
Try to get the STARTER RELAY changed under warranty.

That's what the technician approximately said. But according to him it was because of loose connections that the short circuit happened. He tightened things and said it won't give me any problem now. One more thing he said is that the bike didn't start with kick because it is a DC set up and needs to have a minimum voltage for even kick to work. What do you say?

I had started my ZMA without battery ,and I have seen SVC guys starting new ZMA without battery...

is your bike under warranty? it is probably the cam tensioner i suppose well take it to the ASC to confirm eventhough they are of no use in trivandrum they are lazy and careless

it might be the problem with the starter switch if it happens again check it first or maybe the starter relay anyway its better to get it replaced as it is a new bike and avoid further trouble and ripping the bike once in a while moderately is good for the bike but a rip at 8k? that doesnt sound too good

I had started my Karizma using kick without battery,When i had given the battery for charging!

Yes,It doesn't seems to be good.

Isn't the answer to why the bike didn't start with kick already given in the following post of psr? Can't it be because of short circuit or loose connection?
It would be good if someone can give link to some circuit diagram.

[QUOTE=psr;679607 your bike did not start either with kick or with push, because the starter motor was engaged by the relay, and the stator developed Voltage for start was used by the starter motor.
Try to get the STARTER RELAY changed under warranty.[/QUOTE]

If its short circuiting,the fuse might have blown,so it might be a loose contact i guess.

Hard gear shift problem while down shifting - Blip your throttle (slightly raise the engine rpm during downshifts).

I have been doing this whenever I had a pillion rider, to have a smooth riding experience, but I had thought that "blip" is bad (thanks to my newbie-ness) for the bike since it is throttling when the clutch is pressed in. Just realized that its actually a good practice to blip the throttle (if done correctly) while downshifting, and it definitely makes shifting a LOT smoother + reduces clutch plate wear to a small extent.

I learned riding a motorcycle myself - more of a trial & error experiment, so I never came to know this minor but important step while shifting. And even if I did blip, I always thought its not a good practice. I am posting this so that it would help other newbies who are just learning the art of riding. Read here and a discussion here. Throttle blip is of lot more importance when you're on a superbike, but its important in smaller bikes like ZMA too.

Caution: Do not downshift when you blip the throttle

Do you blip the throttle while downshifting - sometimes/always/never? Please share your views.