Ah... wouldn't have posted if it weren't for you. It was a pleasant surprise speaking with you the other day.

I did instantly notice the large difference in illumination as soon as the stocks were put in again. I missed the HID's a lot, they made my daily commutes so much more safer and i just cant seem to get the same level of confidence with the stock bulb...

b.t.w. RDDreams is helping a lot! many others RD owners face the same tantrums that i do. But i have to say, the level of knowledge that some people have on xbhp and rddreams is simply stunning!

Thx for checking on the carb insulator.

Noticed strange thing today. My front brake fluid indicator shows that its completely empty. Just couple of days ago it was almost full, and the liquid was clear, with a slightly orange tint. I have been riding in Bangalore city last two days, mostly in rain, or after heavy rains and never noticed any decrease in breaking performance. So not sure when exactly this happened. Also no clue how this could have happened. I have stopped using the fronts entirely, until I get new fluid back. Also want to understand why this would have happened, as its not supposed drain like this. Help please. (I had changed my front disc pads to RTR OE pads couple of weeks ago. The front wheel does not rotate freely, and there is a distinctive rubbing sounds when wheels are spun, but this is expected I guess. Brakes have been working great so far)

This may have very little to do with the RTR pads. I've had this happen to me once and is not uncommon. Three main areas where you can leak is at the reservoir, feed line or the piston heads, inspect these for any possible fluid residue. Did you notice a pool of fluid right below the front wheel at where you usually park the bike?

The pads cannot contribute towards reduction in brake fluid level,unless it is fully worn out...so check for pad wear level....Apart from the areas mentioned, the bleed nipple should also be checked for proper tightness.

Brat ,I cross checked with the Southern Auto for your requirement,and since they don't have told me that their main stock area at Medavakkam may have it...Phone No: of Southern Medavakkam is..22772494 & 95.

Thats very useful info there, PSR! Thx for that, i'll chk it out.

Actually the Mech put a Local Relay first,So i am worried and changed it to bosh 130rs after a few days,local was only 50.

+1^^^

PSR and the other zma guys on board! Im facing yet another problem with my zma.
The revs used to take quite long to come down and the idling was quite erratic. I realized it was an air-leak and checked the insulator. The brass pipe at the side was loose and was letting in air. So i replaced the insulator and put a layer of permatex on it. Yes i did put in the o-ring(i believe its not easily available). Unfortunately, although the problem reduced, it didnt stop! Ive done everything from clean the carb to check the pipes around it.

The Spark plug tip and ring remained WHITE leading me to believe that there is still an airleak. To compensate for a while, i fiddled with the airscrew and made it rich. Attaching a pic of the plug after riding the bike for a coupla weeks post the air-screw-fiddle session!

The revs right now are pretty stable but go up after the bike heats up. its a bit erratic which i can live with. But what really gets to me how the gears get yanked and clanked every time i have to shift.

I even wondered if the valves are on their way out but the bike seems to have good compression and pulls cleanly. Unfortunately, i cant use my compression gauge on this bike for want of a plug adapter!

Any imputs? How could i fix this?

From the plug,its sure that it is running very lean,Set the AFR to 4 turns as suggested by psr and check the performance.Then whats your idle rpm now?

James you had seen the brass nipple on the Carb Insulator on the gear side ..A rubber tube will be attached to the brass nipple, remove this rubber tube, and temporarily block the brass nipple and see if your idling RPM problem gets solved..If so then you have to change the tubes leading away from this brass nipple ,Through a " T " under petrol tank,to air feed valve (Big Unit to the Right of petrol Tap)and the air fuel valve on the carb ...on the kicker side ....a small upward looking nipple and tube on the carb itself......to the left of throttle actuator assembly.
Good luck..

@ PSR SIR

Was busy now a days and couldn't find time to replace the Stem Oil Seals,so going to SVC tomorrow for replacing it.So Do i need to do check any other things? Will tappets need an adjustments or another things need inspection or adjustment?
and is it normal using liquid gasket in the top of the head? I cant see any gasket there,Its now there is black liquid gasket.Is it ok?

Thanks for the prompt reply, aneesh and PSR. I did block the pipe coming outta the insulator, followed by the air feed valve and finally the one on the carb but to no avail. Tried it all! :/

The air screw is now at around 5.25 turns (360 degrees) and the idling is at around 1.2k. After a hard short ride, it jumps to around 1.35k. This is usually caused by a lean mixture! I haven't been able to understand this bike so far! Never thought id say this but troubleshooting a rd seems simpler!

Now that its at 5.25 turns, there is a flat spot as soon as i open throttle and then the bike pulls clean! Wonder if the jet needle is damaged. It seems ok to me though! Another reason could be a weak air screw o-ring. I wanted to replace it but the darn thing isnt available.

Funny thing is ive noticed this problem crop up on mostly all zma's that have run atleast 50k especially the ones from bangalore.

EDIT: forgot to mention, ive got this weird feeling that the timing is off by a small margin. I can hear the bike miss every now and then. (RD effect again) LOL

since the top head will be fully opened for the stem seal change you can check the following
1. Timing chain..condition
2. timing chain guide, tensioner and lifter
3. Cam lobe profile and bearing condition
4. Valve seats and their condition
6 Valve seating leak if any
7. Valve stem for trueness..ie., if any bend is there on valve stem..
8. Remove carbon deposit on piston Head,and valve area.
9. Check Piston slap..ie., side to side movement..
If possible, remove bore and check up crankshaft,piston etc., for wear and tear.....when setting the bore back on the crank case, scrape and remove the bottom gasket from bore & crank case, and apply Three bond instead and reassemble...this will give you improved compression, performance, and FE, WITHOUT CAUSING ANY problems.

Thanks for the long list sir,but i am not going to tell him to touch anything below the head,they will give me a long bill,No money! Limited money.Sorry.Had removed the carbon deposits lats time and checked piston,cylinders etc for damages and was fine.Will tell them to check valve stem bend(If any) and valve seating leak(if any),Sir can you explain what is Valve Stem Seating Leak? And what about the head gasket?

Once again thanks for the reply!

Replies in bold

Well yes i do agree with you but the idle difference mentioned here is between a warm engine and a HOT engine. Not cold and warm/hot.

If i go a bit leaner, i will probable mess up my already lean running engine!

Oh did i mention that with 3.75-4 turns of the air screw, my mileage was a measly 26 with sedate riding?

The engine has run around 60k and the cylinder was replace around 5-6k kms ago as per the previous owner!