Sub: Stunts involving front disc brake!

this query is for those few riders who have tried/performed stunts, specially, involving the front disc brake...e.g. burnout, stoppie etc.

I feel the front brake is not so attacking and I can do static burnouts but rolling burnouts and stoppies seem like quite a trick here and I'm not able to perform these. Please do not advise to perform by deflating the front tyre as anyone would not always deflate>stunt>inflate.
So how do you stunters perform those? Is there any possibility with the existing setup or we have to tighten the disc brake I hope it can be done, plz comment.
A full procedure will be helpful.
Thanks

1. The front and rear tires should be stock..front 2.75/18 MRF zapper FS and rear 100/90 Mrf zapper -Y. Both should look new with center deep line clearly visible...original tires last more than 20 K Kms
2. Check Service record,by asking for the owners's manual and seeing the use of service coupons as recommended ,and owner's Name and Address.
3. Check the RC and Insurance papers, both should be current and in the same owner's name and address,esp to see if the seller and the photo in RC are same.If seller is selling on behalf of someone else, unless you see and confirm, do not go for purchase as it may be a stolen bike.
4. Check for change of panels, look for wide gaps between panels joining areas, and also slight difference in color between panels.
5. Put the bike in center stand and rotate both front and rear wheel and check...there should be no sideways movement of both the wheel Rim and tire..Wheel costs 6 k each and tires 2 k each approximately.
6. Check Battery is 7 AH , and self start works properly.
7. The tool kit under seat along with first aid kit should be available.
8. Start and let engine idle for 2 minutes, and look for abnormal sounds from engine like loud clicking or grinding noise.. take the bike for a run and see if it pulls to any side or wobbles If it does walk away from it.
9. Apply front disk lightly while doing 40 Kmph and see if you have a pulsating feeling in the front brake lever..if it is there then your disc needs replacement.
10. Try to take the bike to 100 Kmph and see the stability,sound from engine and braking efficiency.......if not possible drive around at lower gears at higher RPMs....upto 6 or 7 k RPM.
11. After coming back from ride with hot engine again look for any abnormal engine sounds...

These are preliminary checks...Most Important of all the Bike papers should be Genuine and current, Nill accident record, and no abnormal sounds from engine.

Sunny regarding the RPM restriction ,did it happen when you started riding after some break in your trip..ie., ride 100 Kms--break for 5 to 10 minutes--Again start riding..problem with RPM being 5 K only.what was the sequence ?

Yes, I was continuously above 120kph for 30 kms then constant 80kph for some 100 kms then again 120+ kph for 50 kms or so and then stopped to have my lunch at a dhaba for 30 minutes, and then it showed these problems in the next 50 kms ride finally reaching my flat.
Next morning, it happened again for the first ride. But then after sometime in the subsequent rides it disappeared and now results are as I stated, low pick up

Looks more like the Carb slide getting stuck..the slide has a Black Moly coat for reducing friction..sometimes due to the thermal shock or bad petrol it starts to come away from the slide and gets in between the slide and carb body...this stops the slide from moving up with vacuum leading to the problem.after some time it may get stuck permanently...When the RPM does not rise, please remain at 3.5 or 4 K RPM to avoid engine running lean continuously..I had faced this problem and corrected by opening carb and removing the coating totally.

Monday evening got my bike after its 1st servicing. I had complained about rear brake being inefficient, wobbly feeling and inadequate throttle response. All of them are corrected now. The bike is rock solid and has crispy throttle response and the rear brake also has good crispiness.
Had an embarrassing situation today. Bike was not staring in the morning either with electric start or with kicker. Even putting on choke was of no use. Shook the bike to see if petrol is there and got some sound of petrol. After 10 minutes I gave up and went to ASC. Told the manager there and convinced him that there is some genuine problem. He sent a mechanic with me. After reaching my hostel he checked and found no petrol. Was so embarrassing. I sure heard something, what was that then ? Went with him to HP station and brought 2 ltr of petrol in plastic bottle, filled up the tank and vroom!! It was so embarrassing. Dropped him at Asc and gave him 50 Rs. and of course said sorry for the unnecessary trouble I gave him.

About 350ml of petrol cannot be used even in reserve,and remains inside tank, apart from this the float which helps in indicating the amount of petrol in tank also shakes and makes noise which might have misled you to think there is enough petrol in tank....

OMG, so serious problems there..hmm ok I'll contact a mechanic for opening the carb next time. Thank you very much for the info. BTW, details about "When the RPM does not rise, please remain at 3.5 or 4 K RPM to avoid engine running lean continuously.." plz



A perfect example of "never believe on your ears; believe on what your eyes see"

It is not a serious problem...If you can understand tech things about carburetor i can suggest what can be done...Only if problem repeats often..otherwise ignore it.
When the carb slide gets stuck , with throttle it will not rise like it should..so petrol flow will become stagnant, and only butterfly will open allowing more air without increase in petrol...this means that more air and less petrol leading to very lean running,heat and may be damage to engine components due to heat if it is a long ride....Here is a pic., to explain the carb and it's working.

Here are two links explaining in detail CV carb working ..



Care & Feeding Of The Keihin Carb

Carburetors explained (very long but EXCELLENT ARTICLE) [Archive] - The Sportbikes Website

Ya that's what might have happened. The mechanic said there should be always a minimum of 1 liter petrol in tank. When I said that I thought that kind of restriction is for FI engines he said for FI engines it is 2 litres and for carb it is 1 liter.

Hey guys..I wanted to get a single rod type crash guard fixed on my bike. If anyone here have done the same then do advice.

Bike still at traffic station,the typing guy was leave today!

Sriram sir. Get the duplicate RX type that'll suite your needs, along with a 'U' clamp to hold it in place.

Sarkar karyam mura pole (means - govt 'things' move at their own pace )