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@ ACS, nothing FAR fetched about it. One of my friend's electro coil had gone kaput last year. We had to source another one thru a mechanic. Got a second hand from a accident ZMA for Rs.1200. New one costs around 2900 you see
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***Correct me if I am wrong :) -
Originally posted by ZMAtic View Post@ ACS, nothing FAR fetched about it. One of my friend's electro coil had gone kaput last year. We had to source another one thru a mechanic. Got a second hand from a accident ZMA for Rs.1200. New one costs around 2900 you see
What is it that you're replying to ? Is it about the TPS ?
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Yes agreed to some extentOriginally posted by acs1207 View PostOK . You fix the TPS at WOT . What happens ? The timing is at one end .
Then you adjust the AFR for the normal ride . Means you have to ( most probably ) enrich the AFR ratio . And enriching the ratio does lead to fall in FE ,right ?
But then , still , you have an un-obedient student at mid-range . What can you do about that ? I think it brings up more complications than you'll need .
Unless you're planning on 'Joel'ing your bike , leave that part alone .
Reading more on this i have realised that any thing to do with the carb will only make the engine breath more easily and not much gain on the output and that's at the cost of mid-range.
Though i have not concluded anything here, i might still try it once.
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Please try to understand what a TPS does and what AFR does....The TPS is for varying the Ignition Timing in requirement with throttle position ,while the AFR is for setting the best possible air fuel ratio.Originally posted by asif View PostYes agreed to some extent
Reading more on this i have realised that any thing to do with the carb will only make the engine breath more easily and not much gain on the output and that's at the cost of mid-range.
Though i have not concluded anything here, i might still try it once.
How can Variable Ignition Timing be compensated ,with Air Fuel Ratio ?
One is Electronic Control of Ignition TIMING and the other Fuel Metering Control.Last edited by psr; 09-15-2011, 03:58 PM.When Was The Last Time,You Did Something For The First Time.Comment
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Jet size in karizma, both main and pilot ????Down the GEAR and DISAPPEAR
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Originally posted by acs1207 View Post
odo is visible but still, figures not changing; clock and fuel meter working fine. Lets see more, not getting time to open it upComment
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Karizma Keihin carburetor main jet 125 pilot jet 35.Originally posted by prakhararya View PostWhen Was The Last Time,You Did Something For The First Time.Comment
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could be happening due to moisture condensation.Originally posted by sunny_ View PostWhen Was The Last Time,You Did Something For The First Time.Comment
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experts, I face an issue with my 2011 zma. in lower gears say 1&2 when I twist the throttle harshly, I can clearly hear knocking sound from the engine. very soundy and it is annoying. but the sound disappears gradually when the rpm increases and in higher gears. what might be the issue?? I am with the stock settings.
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Also, in the play portion, the throttle is not coming back to its initial position on its own. it is like, there is no springy action/response in the play portion of the throttle. dont know which throttle cable went kaput. A or B?? please help guys!?"safety will be the sturdy child of terror, and survival the twin brother of annihilation"Comment
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I understand what TPS does.Originally posted by psr View Post
My question is if the TPS is adjusting ignition timing and in that case if the TPS is set to a WOT position shouldn't it also give a better ignition timing (considering its at WOT).
Its only a question.sigpicComment
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Really? Speedo needle also might stop working due to moisture condensation?Originally posted by psr View Post
Squeaking noise, gharr gharr frequently from the disc brake...when not applied or applied slightly(no sound when applied hard), how to check whether it is only due to the dust or mud particles or needs a pad replacement? A slight pulsation is also felt when applied very little.
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Was referring to this... This coil like thing sits just below the ODO which connects the cable to odometer.Originally posted by acs1207 View Post
the TPS is hot topic so my reply may have seemed irrelevant
***Correct me if I am wrong :)Comment
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There are grooves on pads which indicate wear .check it,if no grooves are visible than its time to replace the pads.Originally posted by sunny_ View PostReally? Speedo needle also might stop working due to moisture condensation?
Squeaking noise, gharr gharr frequently from the disc brake...when not applied or applied slightly(no sound when applied hard), how to check whether it is only due to the dust or mud particles or needs a pad replacement? A slight pulsation is also felt when applied very little.Comment
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repliws in bold.Originally posted by sunny_ View PostReally? Speedo needle also might stop working due to moisture condensation?
The whole console in Karizma is Electronic,and the Speedo and RPM Meters are motors driven by discrete circuit components.If you go back a few pages, I had removed my console and shown Pics of what it looks like....
Squeaking noise, gharr gharr frequently from the disc brake...when not applied or applied slightly(no sound when applied hard), how to check whether it is only due to the dust or mud particles or needs a pad replacement? A slight pulsation is also felt when applied very little.
Like @Curse had said there are vertical grooves in the pads both sides..if the grooves are used up and pads are without it,then it is time you changed it...to check for dust, spray water under pressure on to the disc pads and rotate and apply disc brake a few times.Repeat the water jet cleaning two times and see...A slight pulsation on the brake lever denotes a warped(bent) Disc.Last edited by psr; 09-15-2011, 06:56 PM.When Was The Last Time,You Did Something For The First Time.Comment
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@psr Sir, thank you very much
@Curse, thanks
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