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**shubhamAT** · 09-13-2011, 10:03 PM

Thanks Aneesh. Any suggestions on tires ?

**Aneesh@4GHz** · 09-13-2011, 10:45 PM

Originally posted by James View Post

Its not worth trying to change the bulb with the fairing on. At some point of time you are bound to touch the bulb with your fingers or some other dirty stuff. This in turn may cause the bulb to die out on you prematurely or even shatter.

Yes,The speedometer stay is very close to the bulb,its not a good idea.

Originally posted by shubhamAT View Post

Thanks Aneesh. Any suggestions on tires ?

Whats your riding conditions bro?You want TL? or is TT tires OK?

**psr** · 09-13-2011, 10:52 PM

Originally posted by acs1207 View Post

How , how ?

How,how,how??? I'm willing to train my fingers ..
Which is easier ? Removing the tank or removing the fairing? I guess it's the tank .

I had done the change without removing either the fairing or tank,but needs a lot of effort and accurate movement of your hand and fingers...Easiest and safest is to remove fairing and change the bulb. The top two screws on the front of the Petrol tank(star head screws),and the two lower fairing hold bolts ,one on each side, must be removed ,then the fairing should be gently levered outward at both lower corners,where it fits into a rubber gromet on to the tank,and then move the fairing forward..the fairing will come out fully.The fairing must be held carefully as it is heavy and then both the pilot and head light bulbs can be changed.
While refitting take care to guide the two plastic stems of the head light in to the rubber bushes on the speedo console..
If you have doubts, best to get it done with the mechanic's help.

**Aneesh@4GHz** · 09-13-2011, 11:03 PM

Originally posted by psr View Post

I had done the change without removing either the fairing or tank,but needs a lot of effort and accurate movement of your hand and fingers...Easiest and safest is to remove fairing and change the bulb. The top two screws on the front of the Petrol tank(star head screws),and the two lower fairing hold bolts ,one on each side, must be removed ,then the fairing should be gently levered outward at both lower corners,where it fits into a rubber gromet on to the tank,and then move the fairing forward..the fairing will come out fully.The fairing must be held carefully as it is heavy and then both the pilot and head light bulbs can be changed.
While refitting take care to guide the two plastic stems of the head light in to the rubber bushes on the speedo console..

I followed this way and changed mine and Ashwin's bulb in this manner,fitting the stems into the rubber bush is a bit tricky.

**Aneesh@4GHz** · 09-14-2011, 09:55 AM

All new 2011 Karizma-R's body parts are costly than older models,they come with stickers and for a single front cowl,its nearly 1500rs+ and 6935rs for the Fuel Tank.

**asif** · 09-14-2011, 12:15 PM

Originally posted by acs1207 View Post

just one kind is right ..lopsided at either the low end or at the high end . I'm not an expert in this - what I've posted is according to my understanding from what I've read . I am willing to be corrected if I'm wrong .

I want to know too...

How , how ?

How,how,how??? I'm willing to train my fingers ..
Which is easier ? Removing the tank or removing the fairing? I guess it's the tank .

Am soon going to try this and find out.
But question, the TPS can be fixed at WOT and in case there are issue at idle position can't that be adjusted by the AFR or idle screw. Guessing it could work. I am willing to be corrected if I'm wrong .

**shubhamAT** · 09-14-2011, 12:15 PM

I prefer TL with good on/off road performance. Given the roads i drive on i get a good deal of off road experience right in the city. Today, i saw one Chevy Spark driving on 3 wheels at one of the intersections i pass through. Thats how bad the terrain is. Add liberal dosage of stones, potholes and mud to this uneven path and you ll get the route to my office. My Blaze could tackle these with ease (thanks to sticky tires) so i am sure it will be a cake walk for ZMA.

**sunny_** · 09-14-2011, 02:17 PM

Chain Sprocket

Chain tight and loose at different points, local mechanics say only sprockets to be changed, Service guy says whole chain set to be replaced...How to check this? I think the chain is ok and only sprockets should be changed? Are they available separately? cost?
In future, what are the do's and dont's in order to prevent the chain sprockets or chain getting loose frequently...?

Next, speedometer stopped working during a ride; rpm meter is okay but the speedo, the trip are still since then...how to check whether the cable is to be replaced or any technique will do the work?

**Aneesh@4GHz** · 09-14-2011, 02:48 PM

Originally posted by shubhamAT View Post

I prefer TL with good on/off road performance

Guess Sirac 120/90-18 will be the best option as per your requirements.

Originally posted by sunny_ View Post

Chain tight and loose at different points, local mechanics say only sprockets to be changed, Service guy says whole chain set to be replaced...How to check this? I think the chain is ok and only sprockets should be changed? Are they available separately? cost?
In future, what are the do's and dont's in order to prevent the chain sprockets or chain getting loose frequently...?

Here @ svc,chain and two sprocket(Front and rear) came as a set for 900rs.

and are not available separately.

Next, speedometer stopped working during a ride; rpm meter is okay but the speedo, the trip are still since then...how to check whether the cable is to be replaced or any technique will do the work?

Remove the cable and check for wear at the end.

**shubhamAT** · 09-14-2011, 02:55 PM

Thanks a lot.

**Aneesh@4GHz** · 09-14-2011, 03:02 PM

Originally posted by shubhamAT View Post

Thanks a lot.

Sirac is a heavy tire,It will reduce mileage and topend but best for all terrains.

**ashwinprakas** · 09-14-2011, 07:08 PM

Originally posted by acs1207 View Post

How , how ?

How,how,how??? I'm willing to train my fingers ..

Which is easier ? Removing the tank or removing the fairing? I guess it's the tank .

For experts removing the fairing's easy, and for rookies like me, I'd recommend going with the tank.

Originally posted by James View Post

Its not worth trying to change the bulb with the fairing on. At some point of time you are bound to touch the bulb with your fingers or some other dirty stuff. This in turn may cause the bulb to die out on you prematurely or even shatter.

1000+

Even the oily residue left by our finger prints can cause the bulb to blow.

Originally posted by Aneesh@4GHz View Post

All new 2011 Karizma-R's body parts are costly than older models,they come with stickers and for a single front cowl,its nearly 1500rs+ and 6935rs for the Fuel Tank.

Hehe.... ZMA... Always game. Guess the pricing's set out to beat CBR.

**shubhamAT** · 09-14-2011, 07:38 PM

Sirac is a heavy tire,It will reduce mileage and topend but best for all terrains

No issue with that. I dont think i will ever have 3 digit reading on the speedo.

**Aneesh@4GHz** · 09-14-2011, 07:41 PM

Originally posted by shubhamAT View Post

No issue with that. I dont think i will ever have 3 digit reading on the speedo.

You will have a 3 digit speed,but not the same as before.

**acs1207** · 09-14-2011, 10:39 PM

Originally posted by asif View Post

Am soon going to try this and find out.
But question, the TPS can be fixed at WOT and in case there are issue at idle position can't that be adjusted by the AFR or idle screw. Guessing it could work. I am willing to be corrected if I'm wrong .

OK . You fix the TPS at WOT . What happens ?

The timing is at one end .

Then you adjust the AFR for the normal ride . Means you have to ( most probably ) enrich the AFR ratio . And enriching the ratio does lead to fall in FE ,right ?

But then , still , you have an un-obedient student at mid-range .

What can you do about that ? I think it brings up more complications than you'll need .

Unless you're planning on 'Joel'ing your bike , leave that part alone .

Originally posted by sunny_ View Post

Chain tight and loose at different points, local mechanics say only sprockets to be changed, Service guy says whole chain set to be replaced...How to check this? I think the chain is ok and only sprockets should be changed? Are they available separately? cost?
In future, what are the do's and dont's in order to prevent the chain sprockets or chain getting loose frequently...?
Chain and sprockets are generally changed in one go . It's because the more worn out item will affect the less worn out item . I think it's best to go with that !
Next, speedometer stopped working during a ride; rpm meter is okay but the speedo, the trip are still since then...how to check whether the cable is to be replaced or any technique will do the work?

AFAIK rpm meter is driven electrically . If your odometer display is visible but that and the speedo is not working , it should mean something wrong with the cable . Or the electronics which convert the cable turns to electronic signal might be gone - but I think it's far fetched . Remove the cable at the speedo end and check whether it turns when the front wheel turns . . .

Originally posted by Aneesh@4GHz View Post

Here @ svc,chain and two sprocket(Front and rear) came as a set for 900rs.

and are not available separately.

Remove the cable and check for wear at the end.

Do that .

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