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**psr** · 09-22-2011, 08:06 PM

Here is how the decompression in bikes work...

How an auto decompression cam works - YouTube

**Vikas the Shokeen biker** · 09-22-2011, 09:02 PM

Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post

Try changing oil. And I believe new air filter costs 300 something. Ask Aneesh he knows all the exact costs.
.

Oil change done just a week back.

Originally posted by kaynmantis View Post

12k in 5 years. gulp!

Hard gear shift can be for various reason. Oil, Clutch plates or Clutch cable tension. I say check you clutch cable tension first. In time, the cable will become loose and increase free play. Too much free play will not allow clutch to engage (or is that disengage) fully when applied, like trying to shift gear in half clutch. Next check the oil and lastly the clutch plates. But then clutch plates should be perfectly ok for a 12k bike unless its been abused.

Clutch cable is tension is ok and so do the clutch feels. Its a motorcycle that has barely faced abuses, apart from just one 1200kms ride done by me during monsoon. And the gear shift is hard since the very first day I got it when it had 9700kms on odo.

Originally posted by Aneesh@4GHz View Post

When dod you done last oil change?

A week back.

**MAXzma** · 09-22-2011, 09:05 PM

Originally posted by Blumarine005 View Post

Hi guys,

The focus of my headlight is a little higher than it should be. The mechanic said I will have to change the whole headlight cluster since they have tried all ways to adjust it but could not. Does the focus of light depend upon the fibre cluster holding the bulb? If it does can anyone help me with the price of the same?

I will try and attach the pics of the light focus asap.

Did you try the headlight focus adjustment screw? It is located next to the headlight bulb holder. My focus was too short. Turning it clockwise helped raise the focus to a higher level. So in your case, a few turns in the anti-clockwise direction should help.. Please find reference images below..

**Blumarine005** · 09-22-2011, 09:13 PM

Originally posted by MAXzma View Post

I gues its not there in my bike. Mine is a 2005 model bike.

**Vishakh** · 09-22-2011, 09:18 PM

Originally posted by psr View Post

Valve or Tappet noise increases with heat, and nothing to worry as long as it is minimal..ie., you can hear it on a hot engine by kneeling down close to engine and you will hear a mild ticking sound..This is common with new engines of 4 stroke design.It is better to adjust it before the noise becomes audible even under cold condition.

Thanks Sir

.Today when i returned from the SVC got a minimal traffic on the MC road so flew at 100- 110 kmph for some 4 kms

. Just for a check and when i reached home and checked the sound it was loud enough i mean pretty loud for a Karizma

. One more query is there any problem in riding the bike with this problem??

And now i went for a short ride just to check the ride if the sound was there when engine is cold ( after 4 hours of rest to the bike ) just for a double check

. And no sound at all only starts when heat build up inside the engine.

So its valve

**Vishakh** · 09-22-2011, 09:21 PM

Originally posted by psr View Post

Here is how the decompression in bikes work...

How an auto decompression cam works - YouTube

Thats lot of info for me

. Thanks for the video.

**selvin rebz** · 09-22-2011, 09:25 PM

[QUOTE=psr;707074]Was your plug changed ? If not then from day one you had been running like this...anyway tighten the spark plug fully and check out FE..
The tick sound and starter not working is result of loose contact in Relay, or the Starter FUSE is gone or developed loose contact.The Fuse is on the Relay itself under the connector, and the spare fuse is on the side of relay.

But these doesnt happen always.. so i guess there is a loose contact in relay.. am i rite????

**psr** · 09-22-2011, 09:26 PM

Originally posted by Vishakh View Post

And now i went for a short ride just to check the ride if the sound was there when engine is cold ( after 4 hours of rest to the bike ) just for a double check

. And no sound at all only starts when heat build up inside the engine.

So its valve

If the sound is not there on a cold bike then setting is right.....i think your bike heats up due to lean AFR...Mild tappet noise is allowed in all 4 stroke bikes ..

**MAXzma** · 09-22-2011, 09:39 PM

Originally posted by Blumarine005 View Post

I gues its not there in my bike. Mine is a 2005 model bike.

I would guess that it is there in all ZMA's. Even mine is a 2005 model but the previous owner got a ZMA R makeover done before he sold it to me. You should be able to see the screw without removing the fairing and all. Just check once and revert back.

**Vishakh** · 09-22-2011, 10:23 PM

Originally posted by psr View Post

If the sound is not there on a cold bike then setting is right.....i think your bike heats up due to lean AFR...Mild tappet noise is allowed in all 4 stroke bikes ..

No when i start the bike after its cold ( after at least 4 hours) no sound comes at all its smooth and refined but it starts after riding for some time. I didnt mean that the bike overheats i was trying to say that the sound occurs after riding sometime ie, after the engine gets heated up sorry for the misunderstanding there

. The noise is not mild at all i mean after the ride of 100kmph it was noisy indeed. Anyways will take it to SVC on saturday and i will post the results here

i posted my plug colour pic sometime before and you were teasing me that for that rich AFR i attached pedals to my ZMA for getting good economy figures

remember??

**BOND_001** · 09-22-2011, 11:43 PM

Originally posted by Pinaki View Post

You are welcome .. sorry for your initial trouble .. but you seem to have got it right at the second go

, what was wrong the first time ? Sorry for late response , my inter-net was down for last two days , very flaky even now . Darn thing always goes flaky when it rains hard for a few days

.
I have considered a fuel filter too , particularly of those magnetic type that traps bits of rust .. but dunno what would fit . btw ..the fuel tank has a filter already build in to it ,before the petcock . Moreover it is my personal belief that the source of most of the grainy dust in the float bowl is the air-filter ( air intake system ) and not the petrol . Petrol borne dirt would be of gum or varnish kind . So I am still wondering about it .
@psr - would it be bad to use a little 2T in the carb slide before refitting it ? It seems to lose smoothness after a thorough cleaning .

well the diaphragm orientation was not correct as pointed out by psr. i corrected it the very next day.yes, ive seen the filter in the petcock but i doubt its effectiveness since it is a mesh type. i do agree that dirt could be entering through the air filter,but what about the fuel cap? when i removed it i've seen dirt accumulated in the rubber seals,better take every precaution to prevent dirt from entering the carb.

**ashwinprakas** · 09-23-2011, 12:31 AM

Originally posted by sunny_ View Post

Thanks. Reply in bold italics.

Choke = No Air. No Air = Reduced Combustion. Reduced Combustion = Engine Dead. BUT,
Will result in carbon deposits if done religiously .

Originally posted by Vishakh View Post

No when i start the bike after its cold ( after at least 4 hours) no sound comes at all its smooth and refined but it starts after riding for some time. I didnt mean that the bike overheats i was trying to say that the sound occurs after riding sometime ie, after the engine gets heated up sorry for the misunderstanding there

. The noise is not mild at all i mean after the ride of 100kmph it was noisy indeed. Anyways will take it to SVC on saturday and i will post the results here

i posted my plug colour pic sometime before and you were teasing me that for that rich AFR i attached pedals to my ZMA for getting good economy figures

remember??

Even my bike has that issue. Took it for the first time and they tightened the tensioner and the noise was gone, but I guess its still there and the valves are to be blamed.

Originally posted by MAXzma View Post

I would guess that it is there in all ZMA's. Even mine is a 2005 model but the previous owner got a ZMA R makeover done before he sold it to me. You should be able to see the screw without removing the fairing and all. Just check once and revert back.

All ZMA's have it. Cause I've seen it in Aneesh's ride.

Originally posted by psr View Post

If the sound is not there on a cold bike then setting is right.....i think your bike heats up due to lean AFR...Mild tappet noise is allowed in all 4 stroke bikes ..

Sound pop's up after say a 5km ride. And after like 30~35kms its heart braking.
You wont notice it with helmets on, once you get rid of them then hell starts.

**sinnerz2000** · 09-23-2011, 12:36 AM

Originally posted by sunny_ View Post

We can use battery of a China made mobile phone in a Nokia phone definitely, there is no loss as such, moreover it will be quite cheaper as well...but you can see the difference. Thats all I wanted to say, not to compromise with quality and originality.

Yea i know quality is important, but im not talking about china brake pad's its honda's original pads, how can u doubt honda's quality?

**ashwinprakas** · 09-23-2011, 12:38 AM

Reason behind HH shifting from 20w40 to 10w30. (Credits Sankar bro.)

The newer ZMA's(Post 2005) have a CDI(Though same part number.) that does'nt have advanced timing curve the old ZMA's(Pre 2005) had, so higher grade oil will result in more engine drag, and thus shifted to lighter grade.

Correct me if I'm wrong.

**acs1207** · 09-23-2011, 08:14 AM

Originally posted by MAXzma View Post

Was a really good ride with around 800km on the odo. Rode through Kanakpura, Chamraj nagar and the forests of Sathyamangalam to reach there. For the return journey, rode through Mettupalayam, Ooty, Masanagudi, Mysore to reach Bangalore.
That seems to be a pretty good route ..
Running on Motul 3000 4T plus 20w40 and the engine was cool even after hours of cruising over speeds of 80-100. The headlamp relay with the Philips Premium 55/60w deserves a special mention here. The throw of the light is simply superb! The Sathyamangalam forests were so well lit and confident speeds were around 80. Then on the way back again on the Mysore-Bangalore highway, I could cruise in upto speeds of 100-110 at night..

Good to hear about your 'cool' engine and 'Premium ' light !!

Originally posted by selvin rebz View Post

my starter makes TIK sound sometimes after two tries engine starts what might be the issue?? is it due to low battery???

Don't think so .

Originally posted by sunny_ View Post

And I met a guy with 55/60 w headlamps and 2 aux lamps on the crash gurad last night near Calcutta airport...I was asking him about the mods and he was referring me to "xbhp.com" I laughed and said I'm already there(although a noob) and he was @onwheels. He said he was using the 55/60 w headlamp without any relays, however there was a relay for the aux lamps. Again met him coincidentially today morning near CC2 (@onwheels you there? )

A relay is not required for the 55/60 W to work , however the full gain of the bulb can be enjoyed only with a relay .

Originally posted by selvin rebz View Post

Sir but whats wrong with my starter?? it makes TIK sound when i press the switch..?? is it due to low battery???

I think the TIK sound means that the current supply till the relay is OK

Originally posted by sunny_ View Post

Done then, going for the same with a Bosch relay. But I don't know which mechanic is going to connect the circuit perfectly.
Actually , you can do it yourself . I went to the mechanic to just tie up the harness neatly .

Originally posted by MAXzma View Post

Cool! You do not need to go to a mechanic to fix it. Just basic electric knowledge would do. I can guide you if you want. If you still want to get it done by a professional, you should head to some mech who deals with car electronics cos my experienced mech did not know what a relay was.
Neither did mine . But then he also didn't understand why I was connecting it too .
And the bulb it depends on your budget. I am very much satisfied with the Philips Premium which just costs around Rs80. Just get it from a reliable car spares shop. I would suggest you try the premium before going for the high end bulbs..

In normal case ordinary halogen bulbs are enough .

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