Thats My perfect Combination:-)

No changes to the rim , Rear the brake rod needs to be bent to accomodate the tire . Rest no problem .
And no harm or ill effects in bending the Brake Rod.

Santa

I had to wait for 25 days when I bought it few months back though they had said 15 days.

I had this wobbling issue. Got it corrected in my first servicing. Though I am feeling it is again creeping back slowly.

@ Shubham - I too had a combo of M45 front and rear, did a Leh ride too on this just like Santa, and the funny thing was I too faced the issue of tyre wobbling in vertical direction.
Later on it was found that the tyre was faulty and it was oval in shape. But this does not mean that M45 front and rear is a bad combo. This combo was great in corners too below 80Kmph.
I feel from many owners that the best combo for ZMA would be M45 rear and M35 front. But ASFAIK M45 has been stopped in India. Please check at your area.

Regards,
Deepan

Yepp , the M45 till date was being imported , Now Its Going to be made in INDIA.
So its not available In stock nowadays , Old ones may be still available.
Santa

has anyone cleaned the carburetor of zma?,if so, can you guys tell me is there any float adjustment in th keihin carb.

found out myself that there is no float adjustment,and finally i started the bike(i disassembled the carb to clean)!yahoooooo


i will be posting a diy of plastic welding soon which i have done on my zma tail cowl

Good going..look forward to your post

@ psr ... its a thought which got in my mind ... coz i usually drive with no hand on an empty road for couple of seconds only ... when i read a travelog LA to NY something like that ... the guy used BWM bike and has mentioned about the cruise control ... so ... posted over here !!!!

It is ok to enquire, and no harm in it...In our country even the highways have surprises and need our 100% attention..I only cautioned Ashwin because nothing untoward should happen either to you or any biker,due to any suggestion made here...Safety First..

Is it like a Z bend to accommodate the width ?

Anyway thanks for suggesting the tires: santoosh, xstunter.

the bike seems to run, but has hesitation of revving beyond 4k,maybe its because of water accumulation or maybe there's dirt accumulated inside(since i did not have a carb cleaner i just cleaned the jets wire copper wire) i don't know.

Sorry to sound so harsh to you then .. yes , I can admit all of us had such bright ideas in our youth . But having seen much blood on the road .. apathy of other drivers on the roads (nobody stops for bikers in distress) .. poor traffic management .. pathetic state of fast emergency medical care .. abundance of road-craters , it is simply too risky to be biking in India as it is . The list of friends & fellow bikers we have lost here is long and dreary . So I always advice you to load the odds in your favour , not against . Do not allow a moments lack of control or alertness while riding , however empty the road may seem .
Some kind of solvent would be necessary , the dirt in there is tenacious . You can use a solution of plain old tide powder in hot water only with a toothbrush, provided you give it ample time to dry out fully . You can buy a canister of carb cleaner for quick cleaning, I got Cyclo .. it's marketed by pidilite (fevicol) .. good & effective . Don't use it much on plastic/rubber though .Don't use any metal wire to poke the jet holes .. it's soft brass and can deform or enlarge easily . Buy a new plastic toilet-brush / floor brush , pluck off a strand of the bristles and use that to poke those tiny holes ... a plastic strand will be safe enough . Cleaning the jets only may not be enough .. you'd better clean the whole thing if you've taken all the trouble to take the whole carb out anyway .
Could you post a pic of the zma carb's float pin(valve) and the part of the float where it attaches to, please ?

i forgot to thank you since i was inspired to clean the carb after your post. anyway,i removed the carb, the jets,the needle, and all other things before putting it hot water with detergent,besides that i used a tiny copper wire smaller that the holes in the needle holder.and cleaned the slider i gave the carb ample time to dry up.since it was hartal over here i could'nt get hold of a carb cleaner and sorry i have not taken any pics of the float and floatpin.the removal of carb is itself tedius and im planning to use the carb cleaner through the fuel line if that's possible. i also wonder if the hesitation is due to the tps,i tried to find the value in the multimeter but all i get is 92kohms no change even after i turned the switch left to right and vice versa.

If the Engine is not accelerating above 4 K RPM most probably it is the slide getting stuck...The TPS should show 5 to 5.5 K Ohm when measured end to end....

thanks for the info psr, now that you said about the slide, i think it has been not properly installed. there was this slot on the bottom of the slide .i kept the slotted portion towards the manifold intake.