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Karizma/Karizma R Ownership Experience

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  • #1066
    Originally posted by MavericK46 View Post
    Raccoon and OF have spoken !

    For my next query now
    My Zma doesn't start just by stabbing the starter button alone. Im having to accompany it with some throttle action as well. However, theres no misfiring at idle etc
    I think it is pretty normal i do it the same way for cold starts, however after a good run it comes to life even with a slight touch on the starter, probably we tend to miss this out of normal operational habit of always opening the throttle along with starter.

    Comment

    • #1067
      Maverick, having to use the throttle a bit on a cold start is quite normal. However your idle RPM on hot engine seems low. Isn't it about 1,400 for ZMA?

      Comment

      • #1068
        I never open the throttle along with the starter. I just press the starter switch with my thump and just at one touch she starts. My idle is at 1100rpm (cold), 1300rpm (hot). It works fine.
        A professional candid photographer - 17000+ followers. Be in touch
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        • #1069
          Battery

          I just gave my 21 month old OE battery for charging for the first time. Performance had become iffy, with the trip meter and clock resetting at will during starts and finally were occasions where the bike wouldn't crank.

          I have a 60/55 bulb and twin horns wired in via a relay.

          My questions:

          1. After the battery was removed, the clock/tripmeter/odometer display has become even more erratic, resetting every few seconds with the engine running. Is this normal?

          It kinda seems it will self destruct at the rate its going.

          2. Owners of older Karizmas, what has battery life typically been before the OE battery needed to be changed?

          I'm keen on upgrading to the higher spec 9AH batteries, a la Sankar.

          3. Has anyone run a Karizma long-term without batteries? Not that I want to, but I'd like to know if this causes things like lower bulb life, etc.

          Edit: I never use throttle during starts. For cold starts I pull the choke before starting and let it warm up for a minute or so before turning it off. The revs are a little higher (~2.5k) if the choke is on, until the engine warms up.
          Last edited by nirvan; 04-27-2009, 08:12 PM.

          Comment

          • #1070
            Originally posted by MavericK46 View Post
            Raccoon and OF have spoken !
            For gods sake lets stop discussions on chain maintenance now. Any more and the thread will have to be renamed : 'Witch Doctor method.. Ye or Ne..?'

            For my next query now
            My Zma doesn't start just by stabbing the starter button alone. Im having to accompany it with some throttle action as well. However, theres no misfiring at idle etc
            Is this normal or is there something amiss ?
            FYI, the idle is around 1250RPM (cold) and this behaviour isn't restricted to cold starts. It happens with the engine fullly warmed up as well.

            OF sir, allay my fears quick !
            Maverick,
            Mine idles at 1k and i havent faced the issue with the starter..one press and she roars..no need to throttle..
            "Bikes + Music = Nirvana"

            Comment

            • #1071
              Rats !
              I need to pay a visit to the SC then
              I'm normally not a praying man, but if you're up there, please save me Superman.

              -Homer J Simpson

              sigpic

              Comment

              • #1072
                Originally posted by nirvan View Post
                I just gave my 21 month old OE battery for charging for the first time. Performance had become iffy, with the trip meter and clock resetting at will during starts and finally were occasions where the bike wouldn't crank.

                I have a 60/55 bulb and twin horns wired in via a relay.

                My questions:

                1. After the battery was removed, the clock/tripmeter/odometer display has become even more erratic, resetting every few seconds with the engine running. Is this normal?

                It kinda seems it will self destruct at the rate its going.

                2. Owners of older Karizmas, what has battery life typically been before the OE battery needed to be changed?

                I'm keen on upgrading to the higher spec 9AH batteries, a la Sankar.

                3. Has anyone run a Karizma long-term without batteries? Not that I want to, but I'd like to know if this causes things like lower bulb life, etc.

                Edit: I never use throttle during starts. For cold starts I pull the choke before starting and let it warm up for a minute or so before turning it off. The revs are a little higher (~2.5k) if the choke is on, until the engine warms up.
                No answers so far, that's weird. Has nobody here run their Karizma without a battery?

                I'm particularly looking for answers to this question:

                After the battery was removed, the clock/tripmeter/odometer display has become even more erratic, resetting every few seconds with the engine running. Is this normal?

                Comment

                • #1073
                  ^^Its definitely normal man. The alternator needs to keep spinning if sufficient voltage is to be produced. Each time you turn the engine off, the clock, trip lose power and hence the erratic behaviour.
                  If the battery were intact, the clock/trip will feed off the battery when the engine is off
                  I'm normally not a praying man, but if you're up there, please save me Superman.

                  -Homer J Simpson

                  sigpic

                  Comment

                  • #1074
                    Originally posted by kirosh_03 View Post
                    Hi guys, I replaced my ZMA's front tyre a couple of days back at CEAT shoppee. I have put on CEAT Secura F85 (2.75x18).

                    Now the problem: The bike kinda pulls to one side at turnings (when I lean the bike a bit). If I take a left turn the bike pulls left and when right it pulls right. To put in short, a similar kind of experience as if I'm ride a bike with a punctured tyre.

                    My guesses are that the CEAT shoppee guy () improperly installed the tyre (this is evident as the speedo' needle is not working), or improper wheel alignment. Could there be any other reason?

                    I'm planning to get the bike to a good mech and get the set up throughly checked. Just thought I could get a few tips from you guys.

                    Thanks in advance!
                    The issue is not with the tyre. I felt the same when I changed front tyre for my Gladiator with Ceat secura f85. Its the buttons on the tyre makes it and for first few days you feel like it pulls. But the actual thing is the tyre had got more grip on the road.

                    It turns in a perfect line, the tyre is very good. Dont worry it will be used to you after few days and you have to check the speedo meter thing for sure.

                    Comment

                    • #1075
                      Originally posted by MavericK46 View Post
                      ^^Its definitely normal man.
                      I get that theoretical stuff. But has it happened to you?

                      This happens on my ZMA while the engine is running. The display freaks out big time and if the horn button is pushed, it sounds at times, at other times it's dead. It is like the engine isn't making enough power on its own! Not even enough to feed the digi-display.
                      Last edited by nirvan; 04-29-2009, 01:56 AM.

                      Comment

                      • #1076
                        Originally posted by nirvan View Post
                        I get that theoretical stuff. But has it happened to you?

                        This happens on my ZMA while the engine is running. The display freaks out big time and if the horn button is pushed, it sounds at times, at other times it's dead. It is like the engine isn't making enough power on its own! Not even enough to feed the digi-display.
                        The engine needs to be spinning at sufficiently high revs for the right voltage to be produced man. A constant DC voltage needs to be supplied for the display etc, which would never happen if the voltage is entirely dependant on the alternator. The use of the horn leads to a spike in the load drawn and hence everything goes haywire on the bike.

                        And no it hasn't happened to me since my bike is now a month and 19 days old
                        I'm normally not a praying man, but if you're up there, please save me Superman.

                        -Homer J Simpson

                        sigpic

                        Comment

                        • #1077
                          What are the things to look/check before taking delivery of a new ZMA

                          Please advise

                          Comment

                          • #1078
                            Brake pads.

                            A friend's Zma R disc is making scrubbing noises when applied. Bike just finished free services and is run about 10K kms. I suppose the brake pads have worn themselves off due to mis-alignment/defect.
                            On approaching Sai motors, I was quoted 1600/- for the brake pads~! On further enquiry he used the term which added weight to his ignorance - "imported saar" !
                            Made a quick exit as my pal had given me just Rs.500/- for pads + labour~!
                            Later enquired a reliable local parts vendor who quoted guess how much ?>>>> Rs.130 ! Manufactured by Makino, in sealed cover and looked genuine.
                            Now to add to the confusion, the local Parts vendor said that the same pads were sold in HH too but in a different packaging for Rs.370/-.
                            My friend insists on Factory parts only as its a new bike. Is there any way out ?

                            Please advice.
                            Last edited by dj_666; 04-29-2009, 09:08 AM.
                            4 wheels move the body, 2 wheels move the soul.

                            Comment

                            • #1079
                              ^^^The original pads are by Nissin and yes imported and costs Rs 1750 when we inquired two months ago. No other way about it.

                              The alternatives:
                              CBZ Classic shares the some parts with the Karizma that include the disc brake setup and since it is an older bike not in production there are after market stuff available like the ones you have already seen. Some of them are genuinely good and some may not be.

                              How ever, you can look at ASK brake pads for CBZ at Rs 110. ASK is the OEM supplier for brake pads to Honda and brake shoe to Honda, Yamaha and partially to Bajaj. These pads are working fine for some of our members.

                              TVS Apache series uses the same mount for brake pads and TVS OEM pads are available for about Rs 350.

                              Your choice next.
                              Last edited by HydBiker; 04-29-2009, 10:03 AM.

                              Comment

                              • #1080
                                I'm still holding out for an answer to my question:

                                How does the digi-display on the Karizma behave when the bike is run with the battery removed? This is with the engine running, irrespective of whether the revs are high or low.

                                On my bike, the display ran very intermittently, resetting itself every second or not coming on at all.

                                Again, without the battery, the horn would sound feebly at times and not at all at other times.

                                I'm trying to figure out if there's a problem with my electrical system and would appreciate an answer.
                                Even if you don't know, is any one of you prepared to perform this simple experiment after disconnecting your battery, to see how the digi display behaves?

                                Thanks in advance.


                                Originally posted by dj_666 View Post
                                A friend's Zma R disc is making scrubbing noises when applied. Bike just finished free services and is run about 10K kms. I suppose the brake pads have worn themselves off due to mis-alignment/defect.
                                On approaching Sai motors, I was quoted 1600/- for the brake pads~! On further enquiry he used the term which added weight to his ignorance - "imported saar" !
                                Made a quick exit as my pal had given me just Rs.500/- for pads + labour~!
                                Later enquired a reliable local parts vendor who quoted guess how much ?>>>> Rs.130 ! Manufactured by Makino, in sealed cover and looked genuine.
                                Now to add to the confusion, the local Parts vendor said that the same pads were sold in HH too but in a different packaging for Rs.370/-.
                                My friend insists on Factory parts only as its a new bike. Is there any way out ?

                                Please advice.
                                Brake pads running out in 10k km: doesn't sound right. Especially if the sound began right after service was completed. Looks like parts have been swapped out. I suggest all members with OE Nissin pads put a couple of markings on their brake pads for identification before giving their bikes for service.

                                Comment

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