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**vivekarizma** · 06-29-2012, 07:01 AM

Originally posted by sunny_ View Post

If the battery is not old and until you're not looking for a new battery, there is no need to upgrade the battery even if you're running with headlight on for more than 3 hours. (tried and tested, alongwith Bosch Dual horns = Skoda horns).

Sir..Mine is a 2011 zma,,during my very first night ride back from banglore in a month old Xtreme visioned zma, the headlight got dimmed in less than two hours of continuous ride..brightness was very low than what a 35w bulb gives..I was then using stock battery and pulsar dual tones.though the tail bulbs and indicators were 10w each and pilot bulbs were leds. each time I press the horn, the headlight dimmed very badly and the horn sobbed like anything. But now, everything works fine.As u said, a battery upgrade might not be needed as long as u can manage.But I wasn't able to. Thats the reason why all here suggests to go for a bigger battery when upgrading to a higher wattage bulb and so i did. Now I enjoy taking night rides with much of confidence and joy!

**sunny_** · 06-29-2012, 12:27 PM

Originally posted by vivekarizma View Post

Sir..Mine is a 2011 zma,,during my very first night ride back from banglore in a month old Xtreme visioned zma, the headlight got dimmed in less than two hours of continuous ride..brightness was very low than what a 35w bulb gives..I was then using stock battery and pulsar dual tones.though the tail bulbs and indicators were 10w each and pilot bulbs were leds. each time I press the horn, the headlight dimmed very badly and the horn sobbed like anything. But now, everything works fine.As u said, a battery upgrade might not be needed as long as u can manage.But I wasn't able to. Thats the reason why all here suggests to go for a bigger battery when upgrading to a higher wattage bulb and so i did. Now I enjoy taking night rides with much of confidence and joy!

The reason might be: you were riding in low rps for long time (below 60 kph)
or, aren't you using relay in the headlight circuit? or have you connected directly without a relay?

P.S.: Don't call me Sir, bro..

**Vijay1911** · 06-29-2012, 01:21 PM

Originally posted by acs1207 View Post

Is it really necessary to shift to 9Ah just for the horns ? Afterall we use them only for a few seconds at a time . If h/l upgrade ( to 55/60W) is there then I think it is a must .

If only single horn used, then not necessary... but it is necessary, if one is switching to Dual Horns from Single Stock Horn.

I used stock battery(7Ah) approx. 10 months only for Dual Horns. One thing I noticed after few months, while using dual horns, Meter console and Head light gets noticeable dimmed.
Needed to upgrade the to 9Ah from 7Ah, as after 8 to 9 months dual horns were not getting enough current/voltage from stock battery or maybe dual horns overloaded the stock battery

.
Stock can take the load for some time, but after that limited time it will be required to charge it, again and again

.
Therefore, better switch to battery upgarde of 9Ah, if any upgradation(electrical) to bike that can put load on stock battery.

And if someone has upgraded to 9Ah battery, Upgraded Horn(dual) and Headlight bulb(55/60W) wont put the 9Ah battery under pressure.

My only two upgradations are 55/60W Headlight bulb(since 4 months) and Dual horns(since 2 years 3 months).
I am using Amaron 9Ah battery(beta series) since 1 year and 5 months, no problem faced yet.

**Vijay1911** · 06-29-2012, 01:45 PM

Can anyone tell me, does Amaron Probiker Battery(9Ah) would fit properly on TVS Apache RTR 160's Battery box? Or will require some minor modifications like We require in our ZMA's?
My friend is switching to 9Ah battery from stock battery, today evening.

Posted same query in TVS Apache 180 thread, but seems no-one is interested there. Can anyone help?

**ashwinprakas** · 06-29-2012, 01:51 PM

Originally posted by sunny_ View Post

The reason might be: you were riding in low rps for long time (below 60 kph)

So true, once while night riding was keeping it slow (2.5k~3k) cause I've got specs and the rest of the idiots on road are'nt familiar with dipping the lights. After riding for about an hour or so, when was about to negotiate a turn and I pressed horn, but it failed, so turned on the high beam and just for a millisecond the bike skipped a few beats but regained, it was a completely strange experience, the horn was still dead when I reached home, only the BUK sound was coming, thought the horn was dead. The next day was pissed and was heading to the shop were I bought the horn, road was clean, hence floored it. And surprisingly just before reaching the shop I hit the horn by reflex, and it was working without any issues. So finally concluded it to be the battery's flash, though have'nt faced any issues ever since and its been about 4 months or so.

**Vishakh** · 06-29-2012, 01:58 PM

Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post

So true, once while night riding was keeping it slow (2.5k~3k) cause I've got specs and the rest of the idiots on road are'nt familiar with dipping the lights. After riding for about an hour or so, when was about to negotiate a turn and I pressed horn, but it failed, so turned on the high beam and just for a millisecond the bike skipped a few beats but regained, it was a completely strange experience, the horn was still dead when I reached home, only the BUK sound was coming, thought the horn was dead. The next day was pissed and was heading to the shop were I bought the horn, road was clean, hence floored it. And surprisingly just before reaching the shop I hit the horn by reflex, and it was working without any issues. So finally concluded it to be the battery's flash, though have'nt faced any issues ever since and its been about 4 months or so.

Haven't faced any problems yet. I am on 55/60 bulb. Did long rides a lot. Well one thing is that I don't use the horn much. I mean not at all

. I like it quiet you know

.

Well recently when i press the starter button only one click sound from inside the starter used to come. But after that I used the starter more frequently and it got resolved. Maybe because my starter was not used much. I prefer kick star

old habits lol

**sunny_** · 06-29-2012, 03:10 PM

Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post

So true, once while night riding was keeping it slow (2.5k~3k) cause I've got specs and the rest of the idiots on road are'nt familiar with dipping the lights. After riding for about an hour or so, when was about to negotiate a turn and I pressed horn, but it failed, so turned on the high beam and just for a millisecond the bike skipped a few beats but regained, it was a completely strange experience, the horn was still dead when I reached home, only the BUK sound was coming, thought the horn was dead. The next day was pissed and was heading to the shop were I bought the horn, road was clean, hence floored it. And surprisingly just before reaching the shop I hit the horn by reflex, and it was working without any issues. So finally concluded it to be the battery's flash, though have'nt faced any issues ever since and its been about 4 months or so.

The battery low problem I'm facing is new, because the battery is very old now, needs a replacement. What I do is, I sense it and then blip the throttle and then switch the headlight on and then ride the bike moderately (4k-6k rpm).
Or when the condition is very poor and the headlight is not working, I put the bike in neutral give some revvs and then switch on the headlight.

Originally posted by Vishakh View Post

Haven't faced any problems yet. I am on 55/60 bulb. Did long rides a lot. Well one thing is that I don't use the horn much. I mean not at all

. I like it quiet you know

.

Well recently when i press the starter button only one click sound from inside the starter used to come. But after that I used the starter more frequently and it got resolved. Maybe because my starter was not used much. I prefer kick star

old habits lol

Same here.
But I cant use kick starter due to the damaged foot rest.

**ashwinprakas** · 06-29-2012, 03:18 PM

ATTENTION!!! ZMA owner who're intending to replace their VALVES. The post 2011 ZMA's valves wont fit the older models. They are infact smaller than the previous versions. Confirmed this morning by Arun(a.k.a BlackPanther).

**Aryan Sharma** · 06-29-2012, 03:57 PM

Can Karizma ZMR be modified to look like Karizma R?

I was wondering if this is actually possible? I'm a huge fan of the zma R and have been riding one for 4 yrs now but I want the ZMR goodies in my bike like FI, nitro suspension and rear disc brakes...so I thought why not buy a ZMR and modify it to look like zma R?
The ZMR has clip on handle bars...so will the zma R front fairings fit on it? or will I have to do some adjustments....basically I want a bike that looks like zma R on the outside but from inside its a ZMR....has anybody else thought of this same thing? any help on this will be greatly appreciated

**ashwinprakas** · 06-29-2012, 04:29 PM

^^^^
Hey bro, you have 25K's to spare? Then go for it. You'd be able to save 7K by sticking with the ZMR tank itself but you'd lack perfection, since the tank mount is abit higher on the ZMR.

**SriramEfunds** · 06-29-2012, 04:38 PM

Originally posted by Aryan Sharma View Post

I was wondering if this is actually possible? I'm a huge fan of the zma R and have been riding one for 4 yrs now but I want the ZMR goodies in my bike like FI, nitro suspension and rear disc brakes...so I thought why not buy a ZMR and modify it to look like zma R?
The ZMR has clip on handle bars...so will the zma R front fairings fit on it? or will I have to do some adjustments....basically I want a bike that looks like zma R on the outside but from inside its a ZMR....has anybody else thought of this same thing? any help on this will be greatly appreciated

The cost involved to change the look is not worth the money.

Also, if you have money at your disposal, would recommend options:-
1. Save some more and buy a much better looking bike, or
2. You can be a great contributor to the society that always in 'basic need deficiency'.

**ashwinprakas** · 06-29-2012, 06:07 PM

Originally posted by SriramEfunds View Post

The cost involved to change the look is not worth the money.

Also, if you have money at your disposal, would recommend options:-
1. Save some more and buy a much better looking bike, or
2. You can be a great contributor to the society that always in 'basic need deficiency'.

^^^^
Reminds me of a question a fellow Xbhpian once said he asked.

OP : Can the ZMR oil cooler be ported to the ZMA?

Reply 1 : Why?
Reply 2 : The ZMA is the best tourer in the world, it doesnt need an oil cooler.
Reply 3 : The ZMA is a Sports Tourer it can tour for a continuous 24Hrs.
Reply 4 : The ZMA gets its roots from the CRF230 its also an awesome machine and is renowned globally.
Reply 5 : The ZMA holds a world record for touring.
Reply 6 : My cousins friends uncles cousins friend, went to Japan on a ZMA.
Reply in chorus : All hail ZMA.

OP : :-| DAFUQ did I ask 'n' DAFUQ did I GET!!!!

-My share of sarcasm.

**Aneesh@4GHz** · 06-29-2012, 11:30 PM

Originally posted by ravi@17bhp View Post

Does anybody know how much it costs to replace the entire lockset on Karizma?

Its 925RS Exact.

Originally posted by Vijay1911 View Post

Can anyone tell me, does Amaron Probiker Battery(9Ah) would fit properly on TVS Apache RTR 160's Battery box? Or will require some minor modifications like We require in our ZMA's?

Yes,its direct fit,no need for mods.

**rajdiceman** · 06-29-2012, 11:34 PM

guys need help !

HI , GUYS need u r help , i have karizma r and want to upgrade its air filter ?
which 1 should i do k&n RC 1060 OR any other as try had tried K&N R 1100 but engine is getting heat very soon ! plz any Idea welcome .

**Aneesh@4GHz** · 06-29-2012, 11:37 PM

^^^ SMS slang is strictly prohibited in the forum,Please edit and change it to normal font,for finding the answer of your query,please use the search option,These are already discussed topics.

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