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**svjhonda** · 02-18-2010, 05:52 PM

^
Hey, you quoted directly from the two links you posted earlier.

I've read both articles. And I understand the difference, but the bike can take it...

**dsids** · 02-18-2010, 06:06 PM

Performance Riding: Don't Just Sit There...

I found this nice article..mostly about the sporty stance...hope it helps

While the ergonomic triangle of a sportbike-and sometimes sheer laziness-makes it difficult for us to use our lower bodies to help with various riding aspects, there are many ways in which using your legs and torso can help you ride quicker, smoother and safer. Performance riding requires that you use all the tools in your skills toolbox, and lower-body use is key in several ways.

(pic1) Grip pads on your tank will help you use your lower body effectively; you'll be applying lots of force with your inner thighs, and don't want things sliding around.

Grip pads on your tank will help you use your lower body effectively; you'll be applying lots of force with your inner thighs, and don't want things sliding around.
The biggest and most difficult task for your lower body is supporting your upper body, leaving it free to steer the motorcycle. The clip-ons are for steering only, and any additional input-either from bumps or just holding yourself up-will upset the chassis. Ideally you want to support yourself by gripping the tank with your legs and using your trunk muscles, to the point that you have no weight on your arms-even when you are tucked in on a straight or hanging off in mid corner. The benefit here is twofold: The weight of your arms and upper body is not affecting steering, leaving you free to make minor corrections. And, in the opposite sense, if your arms are relaxed and loose they will not have a tendency to add unwanted inputs into the front end that can upset the often delicate balance of steering geometry and result in bump deflections being amplified to the point that a "tankslapper" (where the steering whips back and forth violently) results.

(pic2)It may seem impossibly difficult at first, but ideally when you ride your entire upper body is supported by your lower body, not by your hands on the clip-ons.

It may seem impossibly difficult at first, but ideally when you ride your entire upper body is supported by your lower body, not by your hands on the clip-ons.
With your bike on its centerstand or a paddock stand (have a friend close by if you attempt this on a sidestand) sit on your bike in a comfortable riding position. Grip the tank with your knees, clench your abdomen muscles, and try to take your hands off the bars. At first you may find that you simply cannot without falling on the tank. This means you need to build those trunk and calf muscles with sit ups and squats until you can hold on with just your lower body. Lean into a bit of a crouch and try again. Work on this while riding (um...don't actually take your hands off the bars though), at first on straights, then in turns. Eventually you want to be able to have no weight on your hands-even when hanging off while cornering at the track.

Another job for your lower body is to act as suspension. Watch a BMX or motocross race, and you'll see those riders standing on the pegs, bending their legs over whoops and bumps to help soak up the hits. While you don't want to lift your butt right off the seat (except in extreme cases), you can help absorb bumps by sharing your body's weight between your feet on the pegs and your butt on the seat; again, support yourself with your lower body and let your upper body move in relation to the bike (or not move relative to the direction of travel, if you consider that point of view) and this will reduce the strain on you and your suspension.

(pic3)Pay attention to how racers transition from side-to-side and you'll see subtle differences in how they lever the bikes with their lower bodies, using whatever is available to put force on the chassis.

Pay attention to how racers transition from side-to-side and you'll see subtle differences in how they lever the bikes with their lower bodies, using whatever is available to put force on the chassis.

Your lower body can help when it comes to turning your motorcycle as well. When transitioning from side-to-side, push on the inside footpeg; you can also use your outer leg's inner thigh on the tank and heel on the footrest hanger to help "pull" the bike over. You want to use these forces to rotate the bike around its roll axis, using the rest of your body as leverage to aid the act of countersteering. Check the manner in which various racers transition their bikes from one side to the other and you will see the subtleties required when hanging off at the track: when the bike is rolled, when the rider moves relative to the bike, and when both move together. Experiment with different techniques to find which works best to get your bike turning the quickest.

(pic4)While you're not moving around on your bike on the street as much as on the track, you can still use your lower body to help steer, turn and absorb bumps.

While you're not moving around on your bike on the street as much as on the track, you can still use your lower body to help steer, turn and absorb bumps.

It can all get rather complicated and involved trying to juggle all these aspects; unweighting the upper body, absorbing bumps and turning the motorcycle. Throw in hanging off in corners and tucking in on the straights and it can be a lot to think about. Start with the most important task-keeping a relaxed upper body by supporting yourself with your legs and torso-and add in the other elements from there. As with anything related to riding position, there is a balance between comfort and performance; try variations until you find compromises. It's not much good using a technique that gives you sore legs after just a few minutes. Most importantly, experiment! There are a lot of things to push on, not just the footpegs, and you may be surprised at what you can use to help you.

**santoosh** · 02-18-2010, 06:33 PM

nice find mate

**abhimanyu31** · 02-18-2010, 06:42 PM

Originally posted by svjhonda View Post

^
Hey, you quoted directly from the two links you posted earlier.

I've read both articles. And I understand the difference, but the bike can take it...

Working in the legal field, one tends to quote verbatim

**akhilmuraleedhar** · 02-18-2010, 08:08 PM

the semi synth yamalube used by the svc is 15w50.i hope it is the same used else where also.i have been using this yamalube for over a year. no problems. so what is the problem in 15w50 motul.
gave my bike for service today. getting my entire cooling system checked along with valve adjustment.is it necessary to drain the coolant and fill it with new coolant? which coolant should i buy and how much will it cost.?

**abhimanyu31** · 02-18-2010, 09:56 PM

Originally posted by akhilmuraleedhar View Post

the semi synth yamalube used by the svc is 15w50.i hope it is the same used else where also.i have been using this yamalube for over a year. no problems. so what is the problem in 15w50 motul.
gave my bike for service today. getting my entire cooling system checked along with valve adjustment.is it necessary to drain the coolant and fill it with new coolant? which coolant should i buy and how much will it cost.?

There is nothing wrong with using 15W-50. Its a call that you need to take. When I mentioned all the possibilities for the cooling problem, I simply had an after thought that incorrect oil viscosity can lead to engine heating problems.

My other post was simply mentioned as general discussion. Many seem to think that a heavier oil makes for better protection. This is a misconception, which sometimes can lead to trouble.

Yes, it is necessary to replace the entire coolant. In my personal opinion it is best to use a coolant that is 'ready to use' and not a coolant concentrate wherein you need to add water. A 'ready to use' coolant has the right water and coolant mix ratio and the water is de-ionised/ does not contain any impurities that can lead to scale deposits in the cooling systems.

**sheelpriye** · 02-19-2010, 11:05 AM

Not very happy with Yamalube semi synthetic despite changing the oil at an interval of 1000kms,
any suggestions

**svjhonda** · 02-19-2010, 12:18 PM

Originally posted by abhimanyu31 View Post

Working in the legal field, one tends to quote verbatim

Hmmm... Gotta be careful around you...

Originally posted by sheelpriye View Post

Not very happy with Yamalube semi synthetic despite changing the oil at an interval of 1000kms,
any suggestions

Atleast you're replacing every 1000kms! I tried to stretch it till 1500kms and my oil level dropped. So if your warranty's over or you wanna try new oils, go for Motul (10w40, 5w40, 15w50, whichever...)

Originally posted by abhimanyu31 View Post

Yes, it is necessary to replace the entire coolant. In my personal opinion it is best to use a coolant that is 'ready to use' and not a coolant concentrate wherein you need to add water. A 'ready to use' coolant has the right water and coolant mix ratio and the water is de-ionised/ does not contain any impurities that can lead to scale deposits in the cooling systems.

Hey, as a general topup, you don't need to drain the radiator and all the coolant, but yeah, after a year, the entire coolant is advised to be replaced. Use MOTUL's MOTOCOOL EXPERT. 311 bucks for a 1 litre pack. Don;t dilute, use it as it is.

**dsids** · 02-19-2010, 12:21 PM

Originally posted by santoosh View Post

nice find mate

tx dude

.

anyone aware of these grip pads? how can we get one?

**svjhonda** · 02-19-2010, 12:37 PM

Originally posted by dsids View Post

(pic1) Grip pads on your tank will help you use your lower body effectively; you'll be applying lots of force with your inner thighs, and don't want things sliding around.

How the hell did I miss this! You know I was seriously thinking of asking my mom to stitch a couple of rexin (alternative product to leather) strips on the insides of my pants to be able to grip the tank!!

Do you know where these kinda pads are available?

**dsids** · 02-19-2010, 12:49 PM

Originally posted by svjhonda View Post

How the hell did I miss this! You know I was seriously thinking of asking my mom to stitch a couple of rexin (alternative product to leather) strips on the insides of my pants to be able to grip the tank!!

Do you know where these kinda pads are available?

dude check the post right above your latest...

my friend is coming from dubai next week..have told him to check out if these things are available thr...ill keep u guys posted in case things turn out to be positive..

**sajibabums** · 02-19-2010, 12:55 PM

A silly question

Where can we fit a helmet lock in R15 ?

**phoenixflight** · 02-19-2010, 01:07 PM

I guess the saaree guard...but i honestly suggest you carry your helmet with you...

**satyenpoojary** · 02-19-2010, 01:09 PM

Originally posted by sajibabums View Post

A silly question

Where can we fit a helmet lock in R15 ?

The r15 already has a helmet lock under the seat. Its a small clip where you can clip the strap and lock the seat.

If I were you, I would rather carry my helmet than leave it around!

**abhimanyu31** · 02-19-2010, 01:19 PM

Originally posted by satyenpoojary View Post

The r15 already has a helmet lock under the seat. Its a small clip where you can clip the strap and lock the seat.

If I were you, I would rather carry my helmet than leave it around!

I always carry my around. Minor inconvenience when you consider the price of the helmet. I also see a lot of people riding their bikes with the helmet in the helmet lock. Feel like stopping and telling them to throw that helmet in the garbage can, it now practically useless, can no longer protect their head. But I guess ignorance is bliss

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