Please can you post some pics of your DIY mod.

keep us posted Satyen and i hope your baby won't act up

700 kms...read the manual a bit late & got it done immediately....I don't remember the pg. no where it''s written.will post tomorrow.
It's pretty much simple & no rocket science gaadi lelo sab saaf ho jayega

haan yaar mujhe bhi yahi lag raha hein, ab iss pocket rocket ko jaldi hee lena parega

Hello Everyone,

Been following this thread since the it was born on xbhp.
Reading it everyday as the updates and discussions come in. Learning a Lot! Thanks.
Wanted to share something with everyone here.

My R15 has clocked 6000km. Yesterday I went for a speed run on the Pune-Bangalore New Highway Bypass to see till what limit I could max HER out. I did a couple of speed runs and hit 147kmph without a pillion. While coming back after the new tunnel, if the ones in Pune know is a straight road till the Viaduct. I just hit the revs again and did a 151kmph With a PILLION. Yes, absolutely no exaggeration or Bragging. There is no slope or wind favour ( I assume) but yes she did hit 151kmph. Most of you are going to disbelieve it. But Its something I wanted to share.

Okies, you see the stand, and there is a bolt which passes through two holes under the chassis and props the whole thing up. Once you put the stand, it looks like it came with the bike! See attachment. But, it is a temporary stand, not meant to be always attached with the bike, only when you are doing some service/repair work.
Pics... Pics... Pics...!!
Wrong. The thing has become a mess now . Ok, read my reply below.
I'm using the 300v. Smooth from day one. But once it starts getting older, the smoothness comes when the oil heats up (takes 1km). Somehting wrong with the oil or bike maybe...
Ok... Hold onto your horses... See my final reply...
Ok. The First service is at 1000kms. Manual just says for the first 500kms, that is 0-500kms on the odo, do not rev the bike beyond 5K rpm. 500kms-1000kms, do not rev her beyond 7K rpm, and don't hold throttle at one consistent place. Rev the bike freely through the gears, but just don't exceed 7K rpm.

Some members on the forum changed their engine oil and the oil filter at 500kms, just as an added extra safety precaution. This is not recommended by Yamaha, and I have not done that. Not doing it will not harm your bike or reduce performance/efficiency in any way.

I see no difference. So if you have the money, and want to spend 620 bucks (400 filter + 220 engine oil) you can do it, but it's a waste. The engine does not need that much mollycoddling.

Clear?

a video of the ride and the speedo would have been real great...


clear

hey thanks buddy, so you mean put RX stand on R15 (temporarily) when you want to lube the chain and all and then after that remove it right.... but then is it reliable I mean bike wont topple off.... I am just doubting the reliability as the stand wont be having any spring attached to it... so one would have to be really careful while performing the DIY stuff on bike isnt it

Thanks for making it all clear dude. This was my understandin too.... somehow got confused mid way through the thread

The spring on other main stands is the return spring, which makes sure the stand remains folded up close to the chassis & does not drag on the pavement.

So on a temporary stand its not important. And the thing is superbly stable. Just like a main stand. You can carry it on tours & trips for photo shoots & maintenance jobs too. Something the racing stand cannot do.



Too many cooks spoil the broth.

No offense, I'm not a good cook either...

Some Help Here

Hi All,

if any one have a idea how to overcome below 2 probl'm plz share it .. i'll be really grateful to u

1. My bike Engn is very harsh and its not at all smooth. it will make more noise in high rpm but it will go above 135kmph witout any probl'm .. but i feel the engn is very hard .. other bikes which i rode are very smooth and now how can i overcome this probl'm

2. Shifting gears is always hard on my bike , i use full clutch and its in condition, but the gears won't slip to nxt smoothly .. there always a small shifting noise even in very low rpm. even if i press full clutch still the same

3. Milage i am getting 33kmpl exactly .. and i don;t mind that

PS: i have informed the service guys also and many times did servicing still no result .. hope some of u ... might help me to tune these two parameters

18K km done
bike is almost nearing 2 yrs birthday.
bike - yamaha R15

shift to synthetic oil

clean and lube the chain nicely

also check the clutch wire sometimes it goes kaput

It is definitely written in manual to change oil at 500 kms but yaa it won't affect overall permormance is my guess too.

shivanshu :yamaha sells 3 types of stand:
1)service stand:the one used during servicing by mechanics.cost around 350-400.it is a bolt arrangement as shown in pics above.wen u get u r bike I will courier for free
2)main stand Permanent fixture on bike just like any other bike
3)racing stand

LED tail DIY

Had to leave to office after i finished the Mod Job.


LED strip - 60 cms
Color-- white


Steps to be done

1. Remove the seat.
2. Four 12 mm bolts to be removed to remove the grab rail.
3. Then two 10 mm bolts need to be removed which are visible once the grab rail has been removed.
4. Remove the centre piece of the cowl which is just above the Tail lamp assembly.
5. Remove the screws on the left and right real cowls (2 on each sides located on the bottom side).
6. Then remove the press type locks which are there on the side cowls.
7. The side cowls need not be removed fully.
8. The tail lamp assembly is now visible. It is held by a press type lock mechanism.
9. Remove it. Also remove the tail lamp bulb and the holder by twisting the holder.

10. Hold the tail lamp assembly in your hand, remove the two screws.
11. The clear glass assembly and the inner red plastic assembly come away easily on pulling.
12. The LED strip was long, so rolled it up and then used fevi quick to stick them to each other.
13. Then placed it around the location where the conventional bulb sits in the tail lamp assembly.

14. Take the wires of the LED strip through the bulb holder location.
15. Find the wiring harness which is used for tail lamp bulb connection.

Note: You can either use this LED strip for tail lamp or brake light.

I chose to use it for my tail lamp, switching on in Pilot lamp position and the 21 w bulb will be used as the brake light.
I disconnected the connection for the 5w filament used for the tail lamp.

The colors used by Yamaha are Yellow, Blue and Black.

Yellow is for the brake light,
Blue is for the tail lamp and
Black is the Grounding.


Connect the +ve and negative terminals to yellow and blue respectively.
Or interchange if it doesn work.

I have also attached a pic of how the LED strip looks , It can also used inside the headlamp assembly , Like the Audi pilot lamps look .

Since i have two HID's and i do not ride the bike in the city with just pilots on, dint want to fit it there.

For people who are looking for looks , Fit it in , Looks Really cool.

Santa

^ Simply Spectacular!!! Looks great and thanks for the DYI instructions.



Cheers,

Shr.