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**rameshap** · 09-20-2011, 06:37 PM

Originally posted by sachin1111 View Post

ramesh,tried doing some calculation.correct me if i am wrong.as per the manual,alternator capacity is 140 watts at 5000RPM and total combined load of all lights comes to 88 watts.so 140-88=50watts you are left with. now out of this 50 watts some power will be drown by the Horn and Ignition system via battery but how much of power required for this is not given in manual.so in any case you do not have more than 50 watts to play with.now if you are replacing 35 watt bulb with 55watt bulb then additional 20 will be consumed from remaining 50watts.
that means 30 watts is left for horn and ignition system....is this the buffer? and if you are riding at less then 5000RPM then i think alternator will generate less power because power produced by alternator depends on the running RPM i.e at lower speeds less power will be produced.In my opinion ignition system may get affected.
By the way do check your CBR user manual for its alternator capacity as i have read somewhere that CBR has got the 55W bulb which you want try on twister.

Sachin Also whether 35w/55 you should never use self start with headlight on.. that loads your battery.. I always swtich off headlight before using selfstart as a practice.. But M not sure since twister headlight is on AC how much this will effect.. But from my humble electronics engineering knowledge this will not effect much

**sachin1111** · 09-21-2011, 12:32 AM

Originally posted by rameshap View Post

Sachin Also whether 35w/55 you should never use self start with headlight on.. that loads your battery.. I always swtich off headlight before using selfstart as a practice.. But M not sure since twister headlight is on AC how much this will effect.. But from my humble electronics engineering knowledge this will not effect much

yes its a good practice.I have tried using kick start with headlight ON and faced few starting difficulty during rains,and after putting headlight off,bike starts easily with one kick.this may be due to low battery voltage or battery approaching its end of life cycle.

**rameshap** · 09-21-2011, 11:53 AM

Originally posted by sachin1111 View Post

yes its a good practice.I have tried using kick start with headlight ON and faced few starting difficulty during rains,and after putting headlight off,bike starts easily with one kick.this may be due to low battery voltage or battery approaching its end of life cycle.

Yes.. I changed my oil engine oil today.... Tried my self yesterday night but that confounded drain bolt wont come away so took to ASC and he opened it easily using wrench.. Sachin how do you remove the drain bolt... Had my battery checked up as well.... as they have put a seal in my owners manual that battery warranty is void if not checked up monthly..... Oil was changed at 472km.. today when they drained it it was black.. good I changed it around 1336km on odo.. now will again change at second service on October 21st. Sachin have you tried using 1L bottle(Honda) that costs 221 bucks?

**sachin1111** · 09-21-2011, 04:32 PM

I have bought a ring spanner (12 number) for opening this drain bolt.

**rameshap** · 09-21-2011, 04:35 PM

Originally posted by sachin1111 View Post

I have bought a ring spanner (12 number) for opening this drain bolt.

Where did you pick this up from?

**sachin1111** · 09-21-2011, 04:54 PM

Originally posted by rameshap View Post

Where did you pick this up from?

I used a ring spanner (12 number) for opening this drain bolt.you can buy one for 50 bucks from hardware shop.Dint know about 1L bottle,thanks for info....is it the 20W40 bottle or 10W30?
In my previous oil changes a 800 ml bottle was sufficient to fill up,so if i get 1L bottle..an extra 200ml will probably remain unused.But its good to have some extra oil in case oil level goes down you can always fillup.

**rameshap** · 09-21-2011, 05:45 PM

Originally posted by sachin1111 View Post

I used a ring spanner (12 number) for opening this drain bolt.you can buy one for 50 bucks from hardware shop.Dint know about 1L bottle,thanks for info....is it the 20W40 bottle or 10W30?
In my previous oil changes a 800 ml bottle was sufficient to fill up,so if i get 1L bottle..an extra 200ml will probably remain unused.But its good to have some extra oil in case oil level goes down you can always fillup.

its 2-w40 Sachin

**rameshap** · 09-21-2011, 05:46 PM

Originally posted by sachin1111 View Post

I used a ring spanner (12 number) for opening this drain bolt.you can buy one for 50 bucks from hardware shop.Dint know about 1L bottle,thanks for info....is it the 20W40 bottle or 10W30?
In my previous oil changes a 800 ml bottle was sufficient to fill up,so if i get 1L bottle..an extra 200ml will probably remain unused.But its good to have some extra oil in case oil level goes down you can always fillup.

its 20w40 Sachin

**Pinaki** · 09-23-2011, 12:59 AM

Originally posted by sachin1111 View Post

I have bought a ring spanner (12 number) for opening this drain bolt.

Capital investment !! I'm trying to get a good set of ring-spanners or socket drivers and a few common sizes of t-spanners . The extra leverage sure makes a easy job out of bike maintenance . I have a full set of ordinary small spanners and it is very tricky to apply them in difficult bolt locations .. and they slip .

**rixBhp** · 09-23-2011, 10:29 AM

Hi,
1.Can anybody give tips on changing spark plug myself? I didn't understand the illustration in the manual. what does it mean by "seated" and the rotations?
2.Also, I'm planning to change the air filter as well. Should I go for something different instead of the stock one?
3.What grade and brand of engine oil is good for twister? 50% of the time I ride in full throttle. The bike has done 16700kms now.

**rameshap** · 09-23-2011, 10:51 AM

Originally posted by rixBhp View Post

Hi,
1.Can anybody give tips on changing spark plug myself? I didn't understand the illustration in the manual. what does it mean by "seated" and the rotations?
2.Also, I'm planning to change the air filter as well. Should I go for something different instead of the stock one?
3.What grade and brand of engine oil is good for twister? 50% of the time I ride in full throttle. The bike has done 16700kms now.

Change to only Honda Viscous aiir filter will cost you within Rs 350.. do not use any other airfilter.. Honda bikes are designed to viscous air filters.. buy it from ASC only.. You can use either Honda 10w30 or 20w40 engine oil available at ASC's... If you are buying a diffrent brand like Motul 3000+4t or castrol 4t+ ensure the genuinity of the bottle and dealer you purchase from. There are a lot of fakes in the market... Alaways advisable to get from ASC/ Company owned petrol outlets.... U can use the spark plug wrench provided to remove the spark plug

**rameshap** · 09-23-2011, 11:46 AM

Originally posted by Pinaki View Post

Capital investment !! I'm trying to get a good set of ring-spanners or socket drivers and a few common sizes of t-spanners . The extra leverage sure makes a easy job out of bike maintenance . I have a full set of ordinary small spanners and it is very tricky to apply them in difficult bolt locations .. and they slip .

Sachin/Pinaki ji During second service I am planning to convert my bike to disc brake. Just had a chat with service center who said he will consult the tech and give his opinion...and estimate.. I would like to have your thoughts and advice on this.. Ofcourse its a Honda kit and will be done at Honda ASC

**rixBhp** · 09-23-2011, 12:45 PM

Originally posted by rameshap View Post

Sachin/Pinaki ji During second service I am planning to convert my bike to disc brake. Just had a chat with service center who said he will consult the tech and give his opinion...and estimate.. I would like to have your thoughts and advice on this.. Ofcourse its a Honda kit and will be done at Honda ASC

Ramesh, I never felt the need of disc brakes eventhough I do a lot of highspeed highway runs. Where as electric start is a boon when the engine stops in heavy 'stop and go' traffic. It happens to me while I'm unknowingly in the second gear where it needs to be in the first gear. It cannot pull in the wrong gear and it stops before I get time to engage the clutch. So it's a difficult and tensed situation to find neutral and kick start and then move.

**sachin1111** · 09-23-2011, 02:55 PM

Originally posted by rixBhp View Post

Hi,
1.Can anybody give tips on changing spark plug myself? I didn't understand the illustration in the manual. what does it mean by "seated" and the rotations?
2.Also, I'm planning to change the air filter as well. Should I go for something different instead of the stock one?
3.What grade and brand of engine oil is good for twister? 50% of the time I ride in full throttle. The bike has done 16700kms now.

rix,for changing spark the most important thing is how much deep you tighten the plug.as per manual,it says give 1/8th turn after it seats.first you have to tighten the spark plug using your hand i.e hand tighten the plug as much as you can until you cannot turn it anymore with hand.once this happens it means the plug is now Seated.from this position onwards you need to give 1/8th turn using the spark plug wrench. 1/8 turn means 45 degree OR in simple terms looking at analog wall clock..distance between 12 hours and 13.30 hours.if you find this confusing...then here is my own method which i use for fitting the plug.I am not sure if its 100% correct but it works perfectly for me.read below.
first get a new spark plug,then observe the spark plug just below the thread washer,you will see following things written on it.you will see the spark plug number CPR7EA then six vertical lines then NGK and then again you will see six vertical lines.Once you locate this,go to your bike and remove the spark plug cap,then locate the six vertical lines of spark plug fitted on to your bike.then using a pen or fine permanent marker,mark a reference point on body of bike forming a straight line with one of six vertical lines on spark plug(better use first or last line to remember easily) This is a reference point which you have to remember,(better write it down on paper..just in case you forget)thus every time you fit a plug just match this reference point on body of bike to vertical line on spark plug.Remember that we have to fit the new spark plug at exactly the same position as you present spark is therefore this reference point marking is important.Luckily on my bike this marking is already done by someone...may be done in factory..i don't know(which has not got rubbed away even after washing the bike several times)
regarding filter,stick to stock filter as remesh said,also other kind of filter may not fit in properly because design of filter body looks unique...and there is no provision for removing old filter element and put new one in the filter body....its a use and throw kind.

**rixBhp** · 09-23-2011, 03:45 PM

Originally posted by sachin1111 View Post

rix,for changing spark the most important thing is how much deep you tighten the plug.as per manual,it says give 1/8th turn after it seats.first you have to tighten the spark plug using your hand i.e hand tighten the plug as much as you can until you cannot turn it anymore with hand.once this happens it means the plug is now Seated.from this position onwards you need to give 1/8th turn using the spark plug wrench. 1/8 turn means 45 degree OR in simple terms looking at analog wall clock..distance between 12 hours and 13.30 hours.if you find this confusing...then here is my own method which i use for fitting the plug.
first get a new spark plug,then observe the spark plug just below the thread washer,you will see following things written on it.you will see the spark plug number CPR7EA then six vertical lines then NGK and then again you will see six vertical lines.Once you locate this,go to your bike and remove the spark plug cap,then locate the position of six vertical lines of spark plug fitted on to your bike.then using a pen or fine permanent marker,mark a point on body of bike in line with one of six vertical lines on spark plug(better use first or last line to remember easily) This is a reference point which you have to remember,(better write it down on paper..just in case you forget)thus every time you fit a plug just match this reference point on body of bike to vertical line on spark plug.Remember that we have to fit the new spark plug at exactly the same position as you present spark is therefore this reference point marking is important.Luckily on my bike this marking is already done by someone...may be done in factory..i don't know(which has not got rubbed away even after washing the bike several times)
regarding filter,stick to stock filter as remesh said,also other kind of filter may not fit in properly because design of filter body looks unique...and there is no provision for removing old filter element and put new one in the filter body....its a use and throw kind.

Thanks Suchin. The reply is very usefull and detailed. Solved my doubts. I'll get the parts and will change it.

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