Oh... So, Castrol also has a SAE90... It's good to be in Kolkata, I mean, evrything is available there... Being in Bhubaneswar, Im not sure, I will get a Castrol SAE90...Believe me. They even don't know ,what a Motul chain lube means!! Anyways, I know 2-3 shops, which might have one... but, it's around 15kms from where I stay. Suburb area...

Hmm, I see... As, it is I have switched from Castrol to Shell/Motul... Last time, I ran into this Veedol engine oil while purchasing, but, I had no idea about this brand. But, seems, as Honda uses it, might be a good option...

i have not seen any mark on engine.....but normally the 800ml bottle is enough.if you have opened the engine and cleaned oil fillter etc then you need 1 liter to fill up to maximum level on dip stick.

That is because Idemitsu and nippon oils are Japanese manufacturers whose oils are regularly accessible to Honda for intensive testing in their Japanese facility and they are able to certify it . Idemitsu and nippon oils provide the technology to Savita oils and Tide-water oils to manufacture this Honda certified oils for HMSI & the erstwhile HeroHonda in India . Veedol is the original brand name used by tide water oils in India since way back . Somehow HeroHonda was able to obtain this certification from Honda for oils made by BPCL here , but the less said about the final product(bpcl-mak-herohonda oil) is better . I am presently testing the tide-water(tied up with nippon oils,japan) made honda certified 10w30 herohonda oil ... it's a surprisingly good oil , some say is better than the Savita(tied up with Idemitsu,japan) oil .
Castrol doesn't even send most(any?) of their oils for JASO certification in japan, let alone to Honda . I do not recall seeing a bottle of Castrol oil bearing the familiar JASO certificate label . Only a tallish claim like .. "meets or exceeds jaso standard so and so .. " . No wonder Honda doesn't approve of the practice .
Do not fret , twister has O-ring type chain . You don't even need sae90 for it . Just clean with very soft toothbrush wet with kerosene . Wipe dry with a clean rag . Oil sparingly with any fresh engine oil like 10w30/20w40/2T . Wipe off all excess with a clean dry rag again . The less oils that stays on , the better .. less dirt will stick . In an o-ring chain you are not lubricating anything . The chain contains the necessary lubrication(grease) sealed inside the rollers by the rubber rings from factory , for life . In maintaining it the main aim is i) to keep it clean so that dirt or water may not enter past the rings into the rollers ii) keep the rubber rings wet & supple so that they may not dry up and crack iii) prevent the sideplates from rusting . Baas !
Too vigorous cleaning with penetrating solvents(like wd-40 etc) and hard brushing/oiling may actually be counterproductive by damaging the rubber o-rings or entering into the sealed area and washing away the factory lube or contaminating it with solvent or dirt .

pinaki, i think Twister chain is of normal type...not the o-ring type...but other Honda models like Dazzler have o-ring type.

Are you sure sachin'jee ? I dunno .. if that is it then my mistake . Any other bike in Indian market with non-O-ring type chain and no chain cover (other than the bullets ofcourse) ??

You all knew i've upgraded my tyre
Yesterday i had a trip Chennai - Bangalore - Chennai totally 800kms.
Guys believe or not my bike gave me
93kmpl at a constant speed of 45-55kmph
82kmpl at a constant speed of 55-65kmph
Only using 9ltrs of petrol i've finished my trip
And a top speed is 100kmph.
So my new tyre is not at all affect my Mileage

Unbelievable mileage,Rajaselvam..Superb..
And at what km you did the Tyre change and hows the grip at gravel and wet conditions and wat abt the intial pick up?

Great Rajselvam.... Guys I am trying to get my figures right.. As i said last time when i filled petrol with 1.5ltrs in tank the petrol pump guy filled 10.87 ltrs in the tank which has a rated capacity of 8 ltrs including 1.6ltrs reserve(so its 1.5+10.87=11.37). Now after running 640 kms bike hit reserve.yday I just filled 150 worth as I want to do some testings. now if i calculate the mileage using reserve to reserve method it's 58.5kmpl which is not true I have been getting constantly 68 in city and 80 plus on highway... Now please tell me how do I calculate the exact tank capacity..and know whether I was cheated?. I am planning to carry 1L in my backpack and then dry up the tank and then fill to brim to reach pump i will use the fuel in back pack.. Ideas welcome please suggest

I did at 20k kms. The grip is really good good, i can do the corners confidently. I dint get the chance to check wet grip.
Initial pickup is not reduced.

The correct method is to check mileage is Reserve to Reserve.As you said carry a 1L in your pack but put it when the bike hits reserve.I too checked the mileage like this only.I carried the 1L bottle entire the trip.On the way at petrol pumps i brought only one liters at all the times.

I've checked the city mileage.Put 50rs petrol(0.71L) when bike hits reserve.After a 44kms ride bike again hits the reserve.
So 44/.71 = 61.97

So even after the tyre change the mileage is not reduced much.

I do reserve-to-reserve method, is pretty accurate for our purposes. I note down the odometer reading on my iphone's notebook when I hit reserve and fill just two liter from the next pump en route . I do this over 10-20 fills and then one lazy day I take out my phone and calculate the fuel mileages and average them . No need to carry extra petrol with this method , you shall surely find a pump before your reserve runs out . Another thing I noticed is that the pumps around here are not very accurate at measuring out below two liters . Which is why the petrol company (IOCL) specifies 5-liters for a quantity test , I believe . So I use a two-liter baseline and it's worked for me . Filling less would not be accurate and on filling more , the time taken for it to finish and the extended evaporation, multiple cold start-stop etc losses would throw my readings off .

personally i also follow reserve to reserve method.once the bike hits reserve...note down the exact reading of odometer.....example if bike stops on reserve at say 11545 km then to remember this number just dial this number on your mobile and disconnect.this number will now remain in your handset call list which you can see later or save it as phone number.now use reserve fuel to reach fuel station.fill up fuel of say RS 300 and note down the exact fuel quantity displayed on fuel meter of petrol bunk.If fuel price is say 70/liter then the fuel meter will show 300/70=4.28 liters. now run the bike normally and weight for it to hit reserve.once it hits reserve,again Note down the exact odometer reading and subtract it from previous reading which you had noted. now divide the difference in reading with amount of fuel you have put. for example if difference in reserve to reserve reading is 285 and you have put 4.28 liters fuel then 285/4.28=66.5kmpl is the mileage. and yes better to put at least 2 lit fuel for more accurate reading or a measured quantity of fuel using some container.

Thats rite Pinaki ji but help me solve the puzzle how on earth did my tank carry 11.37 ltrs

All fuel tanks have quite a bit of excess capacity . Manufacturers put it there to account for necessary air-gap and non-spill-ability etc purposes (i'm not even sure why ) . But they acknowledge that it's there and you are not supposed to use it and that overfilling above the capacity noted in owner's manual can cause certain problems . I've never done it .