Let there be Light : Bike Lighting, HID etc

[NANOtechnology]

Hi Nano/Pavan,

Now i am more confused...PFB the listing that i have done to make my bike full DC and run 2 HIDs simultaneously.

1. Get a 17 or 19 guage wire (17 is better and thicker than 19)
2. Rewind it as a single wire to all the 7 poles in clock/anti clock direction across adjacent poles
3.
4. The output (the 2 ends of the same wire) should go in the ape rr's gray wires directly without any grounding or stuff like that...
5.
6. BCU mod involves cutting of two wires, Installing of a switch and two wires to be added.
7. Make sure you get the most expensive switches (Minda) and wires (thickest) as those are of high quality and are far less prone to short circuits and failure due to breakage.
8. Now trace two wires coming from the stock RR connector. One is a yellow one and another is a yellow+red one. Cut them and join them together.
9. Next cut the yellow red wire from the connector of the stator. And run this wire via a switch to the battery and you are done.
I am stuck with one confusion...as i am switching to APE RR unit...please explain how can i connect the Stator coil, BCU, RR unit and battery (A simple hand diagram will help me). Please change my above setup accordingly and let me know...as i need to rush for coil winding tomorrow so i need to know this. i know i am bugging you guys but i can't stop . My bike external mod is over (full fairing of R15) and looks awesome. once this light problem is solved everything will be sorted out and will enjoy the output of 2 HIDs

1.
get 18 gauge wire, as winding 17 gauge wire 12 feet per pole is difficult to do in first attempt or many attempts too....
and 19 guage wire isn't sufficient to run both the HIDs (i learnt this the hard way after 5 months)
so 18 is DONE and confirmed.

2.
exactly (but your coil guy will already know this without you telling him so)

3.
yes that's right.

4.
yes, make really sure it goes to rr without any ground...
stock coil doesn't go to rr without grounding so be ready for an argument (i learnt this the hard way too)

5.
yes, that's right.

6,7,8,9.
regarding BCU mod, i would again ask pawan to help.
as much as i know, the stock connector has 6 wires, you need to cut 2 of them and join them via a switch, to switch on the engine you need to switch off the switch, and to use all the electricals you need to switch it on again...

and don't worry too much, you've hit a birdie already...
even if things go wrong, older generation wiring will sort you out..

[cityhunter]

1.
get 18 gauge wire, as winding 17 gauge wire 12 feet per pole is difficult to do in first attempt or many attempts too....
and 19 guage wire isn't sufficient to run both the HIDs (i learnt this the hard way after 5 months)
so 18 is DONE and confirmed.

2.
exactly (but your coil guy will already know this without you telling him so)

3.
yes that's right.

4.
yes, make really sure it goes to rr without any ground...
stock coil doesn't go to rr without grounding so be ready for an argument (i learnt this the hard way too)

5.
yes, that's right.

6,7,8,9.
regarding BCU mod, i would again ask pawan to help.
as much as i know, the stock connector has 6 wires, you need to cut 2 of them and join them via a switch, to switch on the engine you need to switch off the switch, and to use all the electricals you need to switch it on again...

and don't worry too much, you've hit a birdie already...
even if things go wrong, older generation wiring will sort you out..

Hi Nano,

Thank you very much...Pavan has already explained me the BCU mod which i have mentioned in point 6,7,8,9 . But i am confused in connection with the stock connector. What is a stock connector...is it same as stock RR unit or something different?

Pavan is going to post the pics of his mod...i hope that will help me out.

1 more thing...i have 4 lights setup on my bike...2 of them are HIDs and 2 of them are normal lights. All 4 are surrounded by angel eyes. Will my new wiring will support all these along with tail lamp and other small lights? i want to switch on the angel eyes all the time in night as it looks awesome .

I will modify my HIDs so that i can switch on one at a time and if required both also...this will reduce the extra load on the battery. Will that be fine ?

[NANOtechnology]

4 lights are too much load for a pulsar 7 leg stator.
if you wind it very properly with 18 guage, only then it will support 2 hids, 4 are seriously out of question..

lets calculate the load...

2 x 35 HIDs = 70w
2 x 35w Halo = 70w
4 x angel eyes = 5w
2 x tail lamp leds = 5w
1 x number plate light = 10w
1 x console backlight + switches + console indications = 10w
2 x indicators = 10w

so the total load is around 180w
which means the bike will pull 15 amps of current from a 9 amp battery

i can suggest you an easier way.
go for 25w hids instead of 35w, intensity will be a bit lower, but aren't you using 2 of them ??
it would look good and save power too and keep only projectors ON during low beam, and normal halos ON during high beam.

so at low beam the total load will be

2 x 25 HIDs = 50w
4 x angel eyes = 5w
2 x tail lamp leds = 5w
1 x number plate light = 10w
1 x console backlight + switches + console indications = 10w
2 x indicators = 10w

which equals to 90w
which translates to 7.5 amps from a 9 amp battery.
which is again a bit high, but easily achievable if you keep only angel eyes ON during bumper to bumper traffic.

on high beam it will pull around 20w extra then low beam as standard 35w halos are used, but hids will be switched OFF, so it can save your battery.

previously i thought you wanted to keep only 2 hids that too during high beam...
but don't worry, this is achievable, 2 on at low and 2 on at high will be a better option.
make very sure that the coil guy actually uses 90 feet of wire totally to finish through all the poles, it will be possible only then....

i hope this helps.

[velociraptor13]

4 lights are too much load for a pulsar 7 leg stator.
if you wind it very properly with 18 guage, only then it will support 2 hids, 4 are seriously out of question..

lets calculate the load...

2 x 35 HIDs = 70w
2 x 35w Halo = 70w
4 x angel eyes = 5w
2 x tail lamp leds = 5w
1 x number plate light = 10w
1 x console backlight + switches + console indications = 10w
2 x indicators = 10w

so the total load is around 180w
which means the bike will pull 15 amps of current from a 9 amp battery

i can suggest you an easier way.
go for 25w hids instead of 35w, intensity will be a bit lower, but aren't you using 2 of them ??
it would look good and save power too and keep only projectors ON during low beam, and normal halos ON during high beam.

so at low beam the total load will be

2 x 25 HIDs = 50w
4 x angel eyes = 5w
2 x tail lamp leds = 5w
1 x number plate light = 10w
1 x console backlight + switches + console indications = 10w
2 x indicators = 10w

which equals to 90w
which translates to 7.5 amps from a 9 amp battery.
which is again a bit high, but easily achievable if you keep only angel eyes ON during bumper to bumper traffic.

on high beam it will pull around 20w extra then low beam as standard 35w halos are used, but hids will be switched OFF, so it can save your battery.

previously i thought you wanted to keep only 2 hids that too during high beam...
but don't worry, this is achievable, 2 on at low and 2 on at high will be a better option.
make very sure that the coil guy actually uses 90 feet of wire totally to finish through all the poles, it will be possible only then....

i hope this helps.

Prof Lightinstien,waiting for your hush hush project to complete,saas bahu serial key jaisa suspense mey mat rakh

[cityhunter]

4 lights are too much load for a pulsar 7 leg stator.
if you wind it very properly with 18 guage, only then it will support 2 hids, 4 are seriously out of question..

lets calculate the load...

2 x 35 HIDs = 70w
2 x 35w Halo = 70w
4 x angel eyes = 5w
2 x tail lamp leds = 5w
1 x number plate light = 10w
1 x console backlight + switches + console indications = 10w
2 x indicators = 10w

so the total load is around 180w
which means the bike will pull 15 amps of current from a 9 amp battery

i can suggest you an easier way.
go for 25w hids instead of 35w, intensity will be a bit lower, but aren't you using 2 of them ??
it would look good and save power too and keep only projectors ON during low beam, and normal halos ON during high beam.

so at low beam the total load will be

2 x 25 HIDs = 50w
4 x angel eyes = 5w
2 x tail lamp leds = 5w
1 x number plate light = 10w
1 x console backlight + switches + console indications = 10w
2 x indicators = 10w

which equals to 90w
which translates to 7.5 amps from a 9 amp battery.
which is again a bit high, but easily achievable if you keep only angel eyes ON during bumper to bumper traffic.

on high beam it will pull around 20w extra then low beam as standard 35w halos are used, but hids will be switched OFF, so it can save your battery.

previously i thought you wanted to keep only 2 hids that too during high beam...
but don't worry, this is achievable, 2 on at low and 2 on at high will be a better option.
make very sure that the coil guy actually uses 90 feet of wire totally to finish through all the poles, it will be possible only then....

i hope this helps.

Hi Nano,

i think there is a small confusion here...though there are 4 lights in my bike like R1 but i will use only 2 at a time. If high beam is on then low beam will be switched off and if low beam is on then high beam will be switched off. I am also setting up the HIDs in such a way that i can use 1 at a time and if required then will switch to 2 HIDs (On highway if complete dark). I am planning to use HIDs in highways and Halos in cities. Also all lights will be switched off except angel eyes when i am running in city lights .

so at High beam the total load will be 75w. I hope this will be achievable by 9 amp battery. If 2 HIDs are switched on then also the total load will be 110w.

1 x 35 HIDs = 35w
4 x angel eyes = 5w
2 x tail lamp leds = 5w
1 x number plate light = 10w
1 x console backlight + switches + console indications = 10w
2 x indicators = 10w

At low beam the total load will be 110w. But the HIDs will be switched off by then hence i think it will not create any problem.

2 x 35 Halos = 70w
4 x angel eyes = 5w
2 x tail lamp leds = 5w
1 x number plate light = 10w
1 x console backlight + switches + console indications = 10w
2 x indicators = 10w

But my 1 doubt is still not clear. What is stock connector...is this same with APE RR unit or something related to it?

[NANOtechnology]

the stock rr connector has 6 to 8 pin socket, you won't need it, you will just have to route the coil output wires to the ape rr and you can use a horn clip in this process, so it will be removable.
you can cut off the stock connector if you wish, your coil guy will take care of this, don't worry.

as long as your stator is winded good, you won't have any issues with 2 hids at all.

keep 2 on at a time max, be it halo or be it hid, doesn't matter.

[cityhunter]

the stock rr connector has 6 to 8 pin socket, you won't need it, you will just have to route the coil output wires to the ape rr and you can use a horn clip in this process, so it will be removable.
you can cut off the stock connector if you wish, your coil guy will take care of this, don't worry.

as long as your stator is winded good, you won't have any issues with 2 hids at all.

keep 2 on at a time max, be it halo or be it hid, doesn't matter.

Ok...so the power consumption of both Halo and HID are same (if both are of 35w)...then why the HID lighting is more than normal Halos?

I am not sure how to connect the BCU and the lights to my circuit. Pavan has explained me the mod with stock connector...but not sure how the APE RR will be connected.

I have mailed you the circuit diagram (done by me ) in your personal id...can you please have a look and let me know?

I don't have Pavan's mail id or contact no...hence not able to contact him.

@ Pavan...can you please suggest on this? Please let me know your mail id so that i can send you the circuit diagram.

[Puneet1]

can anyone tell me what type of connector are the ones that control hi/lo in the bi xenon hid bulbs ? i need a few of these connectors , see pic

[sajjt]

can anyone tell me what type of connector are the ones that control hi/lo in the bi xenon hid bulbs ? i need a few of these connectors , see pic

Take it to any good electronic spare shop where the PC & other connector pins are available. U can make a match and buy. BTW why do u need extra? Its coming along with the package with male & females?

[NANOtechnology]

Ok...so the power consumption of both Halo and HID are same (if both are of 35w)...then why the HID lighting is more than normal Halos?

I am not sure how to connect the BCU and the lights to my circuit. Pavan has explained me the mod with stock connector...but not sure how the APE RR will be connected.

I have mailed you the circuit diagram (done by me ) in your personal id...can you please have a look and let me know?

I don't have Pavan's mail id or contact no...hence not able to contact him.

@ Pavan...can you please suggest on this? Please let me know your mail id so that i can send you the circuit diagram.

HID are 35w, its technology which made it upto 3-4 times more brighter then standard halo bulbs....

look at tubelight for example, even they are run by ballasts but consume lesser power than a standard 40w bulb that we use at home, still glow upto 10 times brighter...

I've seen the circuit made by you.
regarding BCU thing, i have literally no idea as i do not have a pulsar.
all i know is that you have to cut 2 wires, join the same via a switch and route one of the ends to a battery...
or join those two wires from a switch and route the bcu input from the battery.....

it should be one of these i hope..

post some pics of your fairing setup here, i want to see how it looks, click 5-8 pics for entire 360 view.

[cityhunter]

HID are 35w, its technology which made it upto 3-4 times more brighter then standard halo bulbs....

look at tubelight for example, even they are run by ballasts but consume lesser power than a standard 40w bulb that we use at home, still glow upto 10 times brighter...

I've seen the circuit made by you.
regarding BCU thing, i have literally no idea as i do not have a pulsar.
all i know is that you have to cut 2 wires, join the same via a switch and route one of the ends to a battery...
or join those two wires from a switch and route the bcu input from the battery.....

it should be one of these i hope..

post some pics of your fairing setup here, i want to see how it looks, click 5-8 pics for entire 360 view.

Ok...if you are able to reach Pavan can you please ask him to help me regarding BCU mod? I have sent messages to his account but still no reply

I am not able to upload any pics as all the pics are in my local desktop and i am not able to upload them in any site as those sites are not accessible from my office I have sent some of them to your personal id. Please have a look on them when you have some time. The light setup is already done on my bike and the full fairing has already done.

Thanks
Soumya.

[RoadZilla]

Finally changed my stock FZ16 35W headlamp with a Halonix H4 12V 55W bulb. I was searching for Philips Premium 55W but couldn't get it anywhere.

Does 55W create battery problem? Is it a power sucker?
I was also adviced by fellow biker to change the pilot lamp to LED since I have installed a higher Watts bulb.
Lets wait and watch!

Will write my review about it after some days.

[crack_mech]

Guyzz.. I wanna jack up my Kawasaki-Bajaj Eliminator with HID, few questions regarding that:

1) Can I just pop in HID into the stock headlight reflector (the round one) or do I really need to shell out for a projector?

2) Does any wiring needs to be altered?

3) Will I be needing some special kind of lamp to be able to use HID for both hi and lo beam, or do i install 2 HIDs for that?

4) In case 2 HIDs r needed for the Hi-lo thing, and I can go for just one at this point of tym, what do u guyz recommend for Hi beam, Halo or HID?

5) Will getting the *bling* LED taillamps, indicators etc help in lessening the load on the alt/stator coils or the battery??



Any kind of help is appreciated.


P.S. Sajan: I got few details from you, but I just wanted some elaborate views on the technical stuff. and if you can help me with the things that I don't know, as I'm a newbie in the field, but a hardcore DIY guy, just lyk u!!

[sajjt]

Guyzz.. I wanna jack up my Kawasaki-Bajaj Eliminator with HID, few questions regarding that:

1) Can I just pop in HID into the stock headlight reflector (the round one) or do I really need to shell out for a projector?

CM, Being with a good round HL assy, U can go in for a good quality H4 HID conversion kit. Of course u can go in for projectors if u r ready to forget the stock HL assy as its too small to accommodate a bixenon projector and willing to smoke a few thousands

2) Does any wiring needs to be altered?

A good HID kit will be having sufficient wiring harness with supporting relays so that no need of change of wires to receive a HID.

3) Will I be needing some special kind of lamp to be able to use HID for both hi and lo beam, or do i install 2 HIDs for that?

There r 3 types of H4 HID kits available
1. H4 HID+Halogen: One of the beam will be of HID and the other will be Halogen.

2. H4 telescopic/Flip: Both high/low will be from a single HID tube but the beam will be changing with the help of a electro magnetic mechanism which will pull in & out for beam change, other type is HID capsule will be moving up & down instead of going in & out which is considered to be a inferior quality and very prone to defects such as stucking in between while its moving up & down.

3. This is the most powerful but also expensive one, it will have 2 HID capsules within one bulb each one is dedicated to high & low beam. It will've 2 HID tubes and 2 ballast with every bulb, keep in mind that it will take double space than a std HID kit. U can light it up simultaneously if ur batt supports and blind the whole area at the cost of others happiness. But perfomance wise telescopic will be offering a better spread on a round head lamp assy.

Now its ur call to decide

4) In case 2 HIDs r needed for the Hi-lo thing, and I can go for just one at this point of tym, what do u guyz recommend for Hi beam, Halo or HID?

U've very limited choice for being with a single HL assy, if its a twin hL assy, u can go in for HID for low and halo for high as HID cant be used for flashing bcz it takes a few secs to get the full brightness. HID+Halo kit is a waste of money and u'll get mad once u change the beam from HID low to Halo high as the intensity of a HID is 3 times higher than a std halogen. So in effect, u feel u got a blown high beam bulb.

5) Will getting the *bling* LED taillamps, indicators etc help in lessening the load on the alt/stator coils or the battery??

Any kind of help is appreciated.

Ur alternator is powerful enough to drive a 55W halogen by stock AFAIK, so if u plonk a 35W HID it can manage without any batt drain.

P.S. Sajan: I got few details from you, but I just wanted some elaborate views on the technical stuff. and if you can help me with the things that I don't know, as I'm a newbie in the field, but a hardcore DIY guy, just lyk u!!

Ah, that's a nice gesture, thats the way I leant all these and am still on that process while chatting with u guys

[mihir.khatwani]

I really need to know the bulb size size i would need for my R15.
Is it H4 or H7 or something else.
And I should go for 2 bixenon bulbs or 2 single xenon bulbs and also I will be going for 35 w 35w
which will be the best brands if I have all the international brands available to me like Mccouloch etc etc