Let there be Light : Bike Lighting, HID etc

[sajjt]

sorry to burdge in but here is some info about stock r 15 s electricals and some mod i did few days back in one of my friens bike ..

STOCK IS 160WATT@8K RPM!!!
3 PHASE.

STILL THE RPM BELOW 5 K THE OUTPUT IS TOO LOW,LESS THEN 3 AMOS!!!!!!!

WHAT I DID TOOK THE COIL AND STRIPPED IT OFF AND USED 17 GAUGE WIRE TOTAL 85-90 FEET. AND PLONK IT ON APE RR AND NOW HE IS USING 2 55/60 BULBS NON STOP,JUST THE THING IS HE IS NOT HAPPY WITH THE BATTERY ,A UPGRADE OF 6+WILL BE GREAT..

Doc, u r a restless genius. U cant sit idle untill u do some kind of electrical mod every month/week. I think u should visit a de-addiction center to get rid of this light bug

Is there any chance to give a life time achievement award from XBHP?

At times I used to wonder how u r squeezing the time for all these mods. Any ways hats off to u man for ur time management abilities.

It would be more nice if u can change the upper case letters to .. so that ease of readability........

[Shreeni0403]

If u r still doubtful about the capabilities then go for the P220 RR being its the cheapest. But keeping in mind that it has its limits in pumping rates where ur requirement is 2 HIDs. I think Rahul can comment on about the battery drain when 2 HIDs at a time. Rahul pls come up and give ur testimony

P220 is built to drive 55w Halogen with 2 X 5w pilot lights. So its close to 65w.

[Praful]

P220 is built to drive 55w Halogen with 2 X 5w pilot lights. So its close to 65w.

It also drive the rear number plate bulb which is another 5W. And also the tail lamp led cluster, but that would be pretty low. So its about 70W.

[Shreeni0403]

It also drive the rear number plate bulb which is another 5W. And also the tail lamp led cluster, but that would be pretty low. So its about 70W.

Those things will any way be driven even if 2 X 35w HID's are put on together.

[abhijeet080808]

After consultation with Doc, I have decided to go for single phase 18-19g winding with APE RR unit. Will update here as and when I get that done!

[Shreeni0403]

After consultation with Doc, I have decided to go for single phase 18-19g winding with APE RR unit. Will update here as and when I get that done!

Make sure u preserve the stock to give it while selling the bike

[cityhunter]

yes, you got it right..
but remember, you need to run 2 hid's together, so just basic rewinding (single phase) is not enough, get a 17 or 19 guage wire (17 is better and thicker than 19), rewind it as a single wire to all the 7 poles in clock/anticlock direction across adjacent poles, make sure its very long enough, atleast 12 feet per pole, and the output (the 2 ends of the same wire) should go in the ape rr's gray wires directly without any grounding or stuff like that..

the remaining 2 wires of the ape rr goes to the battery directly, yellow to battery positive, and black to battery -ve, get this thing done RIGHT and you will never ever have to worry about your battery draining even with 2 hids....

regarding the bcu, mod it first, if in case it gets screwed up buy a p220's.
once you will be done with the rewinding and ape rr installation part I'll ask pawan to throw some more light on the BCU mod, it won't be difficult to understand.
it will settle you down completely.

as far as the handlebar is concerned, i suggest go for the p220's handle, as r15's handle is comparatively smaller, it would be expensive too comparatively.

besides if you ask me, i don't like clip on handlebars, they don't have much effect on handling improvement, going for LOWER handlebar makes the front much more planted and stable under braking, bike turns more stable, this has been a personal experience for me, i am running FZ's handlebar which is lower as well as wide, makes the ride really comfortable, no more front wheel locks, no more back aches too, the choice is yours.

the FZ handlebar costs 150 bucks only, buy it, try it, if you like it go for it, or go for clip ons later on as they cost more, in any case 150 bucks won't be much damage to the pocket, is it ?

Hi Nano,

I have asked the mechanic to do the coil winding and fit the APE RR unit. Can you please let me know how can i modify my BCU also. Can you please ask pawan to throw some lights on the BCU modification part?

The current Pulsar 150, 180 are also DC. Can i use the BCU of them in my bike or should i go for 220 BCU?

[abhijeet080808]

Make sure u preserve the stock to give it while selling the bike

I need help on getting my hand on a R15 old stator coil. Help!!!

[NANOtechnology]

Hi Nano,

I have asked the mechanic to do the coil winding and fit the APE RR unit. Can you please let me know how can i modify my BCU also. Can you please ask pawan to throw some lights on the BCU modification part?

The current Pulsar 150, 180 are also DC. Can i use the BCU of them in my bike or should i go for 220 BCU?

220's BCU and all other UG4 BCUs are exactly the same..
it would be an expensive affair to do so, mod it, or get rid of it by changing the wiring to older generation one, entire wiring will cost lesser than the BCU.

make sure the coil guy does the right thing and doesn't ground anything....

@ pawan

throw some light...

[pavanchirmade]

Ok...Its Pavan...BTW

And BCU mod makes more sense than getting the UG4 or 220's BCU as it'll be an expensive affair.

Now for the BCU mod,
It involves cutting of two wires, Installing of a switch and two wires to be added. Are you prepared for all this?
Make sure you get the most expensive switches and wires as those are of high quality and are far less prone to short circuits and failure due to breakage.
Now trace two wires coming from the stock RR connector. One is a yellow one and another is a yellow+red one. Cut them and join them together.
Next cut the yellow red wire from the connector of the stator. And run this wire via a switch to the battery. And you are done.

[cityhunter]

220's BCU and all other UG4 BCUs are exactly the same..
it would be an expensive affair to do so, mod it, or get rid of it by changing the wiring to older generation one, entire wiring will cost lesser than the BCU.

make sure the coil guy does the right thing and doesn't ground anything....

@ pawan

throw some light...

changing the wiring to older generation one !!! I am not able to get anything from it . Can you please explain a bit more on this?

How can i be sure that the coil guy did not grounded anything? Is there any way to check this?

If i will try to put the new BCU...how much will it cost? I asked the bajaj guys and the BCU of P220 is 1400 rs approx. Is this the cost or anything extra needed for the putting the BCU?

[cityhunter]

Ok...Its Pavan...BTW

And BCU mod makes more sense than getting the UG4 or 220's BCU as it'll be an expensive affair.

Now for the BCU mod,
It involves cutting of two wires, Installing of a switch and two wires to be added. Are you prepared for all this?
Make sure you get the most expensive switches and wires as those are of high quality and are far less prone to short circuits and failure due to breakage.
Now trace two wires coming from the stock RR connector. One is a yellow one and another is a yellow+red one. Cut them and join them together.
Next cut the yellow red wire from the connector of the stator. And run this wire via a switch to the battery. And you are done.

Seems to be small but still confusing to me as i don't have a bit idea about these electrical things . Can you let me know if there is any brand of these expensive switches and wires?

Why the wiring from BCU needs to be run through a switch to battery? Is this something to control the input to the battery?

It will be more helpful if you can post any pics (any links also do) of these modifications so that it will be easier for me to understand.

If i will try to put the new BCU...how much will it cost? I asked the bajaj guys and the BCU of P220 is 1400 rs approx. Is this the cost or anything extra needed for the putting the BCU? I hope the P220 BCU will be a direct fit.

[NANOtechnology]

there's no point in buying a new BCU for 1400 rs..

older generation pulsars didn't have BCUs so everything was just wired to switches like every other bike has.
newer generation pulsars had BCUs to control every switch, so all the switch wires are directly connected to this BCU.
if you replace your entire wiring to that of the older generation pulsar one, you'll get all new switches with entire wiring without any BCU sockets.
so there would be NO BCU in your bike....

why don't you mod your BCU as pawan suggested and play around with it, it would hardly cost 50 bucks, if it gets spoilt or something, only then buy a p220's BCU (which i don't recommend)....
entire wiring will cost around 700~800 rs if i am not wrong...
it will anyways be a cheaper and safer deal.

[pavanchirmade]

The P220 BCU won't be a direct fit IMO. This jugaad makes more sense. 1400 for something that you don't know will fit for sure Vs. 50 rupees for a guaranteed thing.
Take your pick.
Get switches from minda. they are supposed to be very good. Also when getting wires get the thickest one available at the spare parts shop.
I don't have any pics and the bugger Veeral doesn't have a camera. Will try to help you with pics from my bike in some time. Say in a day or two. Stay in touch via PM if you want. I am not a regular at this thread as it is very cluttered and runs for 211 pages.

[cityhunter]

The P220 BCU won't be a direct fit IMO. This jugaad makes more sense. 1400 for something that you don't know will fit for sure Vs. 50 rupees for a guaranteed thing.
Take your pick.
Get switches from minda. they are supposed to be very good. Also when getting wires get the thickest one available at the spare parts shop.
I don't have any pics and the bugger Veeral doesn't have a camera. Will try to help you with pics from my bike in some time. Say in a day or two. Stay in touch via PM if you want. I am not a regular at this thread as it is very cluttered and runs for 211 pages.

Hi Nano/Pavan,

Now i am more confused...PFB the listing that i have done to make my bike full DC and run 2 HIDs simultaneously.

1. Get a 17 or 19 guage wire (17 is better and thicker than 19)
2. Rewind it as a single wire to all the 7 poles in clock/anti clock direction across adjacent poles
3.
4. The output (the 2 ends of the same wire) should go in the ape rr's gray wires directly without any grounding or stuff like that...
5.
6. BCU mod involves cutting of two wires, Installing of a switch and two wires to be added.
7. Make sure you get the most expensive switches (Minda) and wires (thickest) as those are of high quality and are far less prone to short circuits and failure due to breakage.
8. Now trace two wires coming from the stock RR connector. One is a yellow one and another is a yellow+red one. Cut them and join them together.
9. Next cut the yellow red wire from the connector of the stator. And run this wire via a switch to the battery and you are done.
I am stuck with one confusion...as i am switching to APE RR unit...please explain how can i connect the Stator coil, BCU, RR unit and battery (A simple hand diagram will help me). Please change my above setup accordingly and let me know...as i need to rush for coil winding tomorrow so i need to know this. i know i am bugging you guys but i can't stop . My bike external mod is over (full fairing of R15) and looks awesome. once this light problem is solved everything will be sorted out and will enjoy the output of 2 HIDs