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Hey any idea what size lens are the skoda projectors? And also what bulb type fits into these lenses? And finally are these bi xenon projectors or low beam projectors?Originally posted by Above_All View Post
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driving light for platina125
want to fit extra fog light or driving light on my platina 125.
what are the options for this?
which will be good option ?
This is needed because I for to long rides with this bike.
At the time of raining or fog its needed.shubham.bairy facebook
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Originally posted by Above_AllHello bro i seen your reply here http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/universa...tml#post725631
1) is you have HERO HONDA PASSION , that is the old model ?
2) you fitted a 5ah battery , the battery cage of passion is small & for 2.5 ah , so is you changed battery cage ? If so then which battery cage you used ? & how much it costed ?
3) what changes you made to make it complete dc or able to charge the 5 ah battery ? please share details & cost ?
I am asking so much cause i have Hero Honda Passion its 9 year old & the headlight is not much powerfull .
Regards
Goldi
Hello Friend,
(1) Yes, I'm having HH Passion+ (2006 model)
(2) I've fitted 5Ah (cost:1100/-) Amaron Pro biker battery, for cage i've done some cutting activity on existing cage nothing else ....
(3) For Detailed how to's you need to read thread " Covert AC to Full DC" thoroughly.. I have used full coil of stator by ungrounding coil end from body & soldered new flexible wire from stator assembly. now I have 2 wires coming from coil after that I have purchased Piaggio 3 wheeler's APE Rectifier ( cost: 1045/-).....Everything got completed ....
Best of luck ....
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Those come with a shield inside the projector only which moves and adjusts focus accordingly in hi/lo beam, although this option is available only in Cars(e.g. Skoda Octavia, Laura, Superb 'cause we are talking about Skoda only) I think you cannot use the shield the way they are used there. so, either you have to remove the shield or you have to apply any fix in order to get both hi/lo beams appropriate.Originally posted by The Monk View PostHey any idea what size lens are the skoda projectors? And also what bulb type fits into these lenses? And finally are these bi xenon projectors or low beam projectors?
Thanks
Correct me, if wrong.
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You can look for aux lamps (short for auxiliary lamps), Hella would be a costlier but good choice.Originally posted by hhsplendor View Postwant to fit extra fog light or driving light on my platina 125.
what are the options for this?
which will be good option ?
This is needed because I for to long rides with this bike.
At the time of raining or fog its needed.
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answers in boldSee i would love to do it but i just want some expert guidance on this as the thread here dosent clarify my doubts my questions are
1.Where can i get another strator as i want my stock coil safe as here its very tough to get spares
You'll get it in the SVC. Incase its unavailable, pay an advance (get a receipt) & get it ordered.
2. If the coil is not coreectly winded and i test it by fixing will it blow off the electricals
If not done properly it'll strain your engine very badly, chances are you might end up frying your electricals (Senior's would know it better).
3. 19 gauge is oke and tht 12 feet per pole is not in accordance with the no of turns rite do i have to calculate it as someone said calulate no of stock turns divide by 2 add 1 and wind
See, the thing is, more the no. of turns more is the linkage of flux, there's no such thumb rule but if the flux linkage is more then you'll get good output from the stator.
4.what is clock anti clock winding fashion
Its like 1st pole is clockwise, 2nd is anticlockwise, again 3rd is clockwise & so on.... It creates alternate North pole (anti-clockwise) & South pole (clockwise). If you have a facebook account send a message I'll explain it in detail with pics.
5.which type of winding to be done machine or hand( i think its nt posble rit)
Hand
dont laugh as i have no idea abt electricals on bike
Its the fusion of a two wheeled machine & a human being which creates a true biker.
Fine me on facebook: https://www.facebook.com/krazzykid.abhijeet
Pulsar spare parts price list (indicative only):
http://www.scribd.com/doc/42303845/P...re-Parts-Price
http://www.scribd.com/doc/99085008/Bajaj-180-Pulsar-UG3
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Originally posted by drvmtm View PostUPDATE UPDATE UPDATE--------FORGOT TO TELL YOU,,,,,,,
check the tci/idi
just found out from my mech that in case of batt fail or overload this component gives up first,,,,,,,so check batt,amp the n replace tci idi nd check.Originally posted by drvmtm View PostCHECK THE CHARGE DISCHARGE STATUS,FORGET VOLTMETER,GET AN AMP METER 30 AMP OR BULLET WALA,AND PLONK IT AND SEE,YOU WILL FIND YOUR ANS.
HOPE IT HELPS....Originally posted by Shreeni0403 View Post
Before checking other stuff, check the charging amps on battery with peak load.. That will tell u the story !!!
Originally posted by sajjt View Post@ Lijo, Hope u are fine after the long Leh trip
I would suggest both of u to check the battery and RR, ur ride's got the latest TCI system which uses DC. If the current is low from the coil, it will take power from the battery. Lijo using a 55W HID too much for a bike so the battery condition is under suspicion. If the TCI is not getting enough juice, ignition timing, advance, spark everything will change hence the hiccup, it will behave differently. So before changing the TCI, have it checked thoroughly.
The quoting is not in order.. anyway.
The battery is perfectly alright. After a week of no use, the battery has 12.6x V at stand still. With engine running, the terminals show close to 14V, and with lights (35W halo) turned on it drops to 12.2-4V.
Today I checked the current output from the Ape RR, being fed to the battery. At idle (1.5k rpm), with 35W halo on, the current is 2.85A. On revving to 4k rpm is around 3.5A and at 6k rpm it peaks out at 5.1A. No further increase on increasing rpm.
It started raining, so could not put on the HID and check. Will do that as soon as possible.
BTW, I got a new TCI and had just swapped it. I still need to figure out which connectors feed the TCI. At stand still, the hiccups seems to have gone. Need to take it for a spin as soon as the rain stops.
Can we infer anything out of these much?
Update:
Took a test ride with the brand new TCI. No change. Went and got the TPS (throttle switch), replaced it. The back firing (tap tap sound from exhaust when decelerating) has gone.
Further update
The coil output peaks out at 6.3-4 A, at less than 4k rpm. Further increase in rpm do not increase the current. Voltage was varying from 17-34V mostly, but at times with hard revving, went up to 45V.Last edited by lijok; 10-30-2011, 03:24 PM.
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your RR is working fine, rest (arnd 3.5A) is consumed by the H/L + Tail lamp + Console lights.Originally posted by lijok View PostThe quoting is not in order.. anyway.
The battery is perfectly alright. After a week of no use, the battery has 12.6x V at stand still. With engine running, the terminals show close to 14V, and with lights (35W halo) turned on it drops to 12.2-4V.
Today I checked the current output from the Ape RR, being fed to the battery. At idle (1.5k rpm), with 35W halo on, the current is 2.85A. On revving to 4k rpm is around 3.5A and at 6k rpm it peaks out at 5.1A. No further increase on increasing rpm.
It started raining, so could not put on the HID and check. Will do that as soon as possible.
BTW, I got a new TCI and had just swapped it. I still need to figure out which connectors feed the TCI. At stand still, the hiccups seems to have gone. Need to take it for a spin as soon as the rain stops.
Can we infer anything out of these much?
Update:
Took a test ride with the brand new TCI. No change. Went and got the TPS (throttle switch), replaced it. The back firing (tap tap sound from exhaust when decelerating) has gone.
@Doc - if I remember correctly, the coil was giving 8A at 6k rpm right? I've not tested the coil output, but only from the RR output, which is at 5A with 35W halo... Could there be a problem with the Ape RR?Its the fusion of a two wheeled machine & a human being which creates a true biker.
Fine me on facebook: https://www.facebook.com/krazzykid.abhijeet
Pulsar spare parts price list (indicative only):
http://www.scribd.com/doc/42303845/P...re-Parts-Price
http://www.scribd.com/doc/99085008/Bajaj-180-Pulsar-UG3
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Originally posted by lijok View PostThe quoting is not in order.. anyway.
The battery is perfectly alright. After a week of no use, the battery has 12.6x V at stand still. With engine running, the terminals show close to 14V, and with lights (35W halo) turned on it drops to 12.2-4V.
Today I checked the current output from the Ape RR, being fed to the battery. At idle (1.5k rpm), with 35W halo on, the current is 2.85A. On revving to 4k rpm is around 3.5A and at 6k rpm it peaks out at 5.1A. No further increase on increasing rpm.
It started raining, so could not put on the HID and check. Will do that as soon as possible.
BTW, I got a new TCI and had just swapped it. I still need to figure out which connectors feed the TCI. At stand still, the hiccups seems to have gone. Need to take it for a spin as soon as the rain stops.
Can we infer anything out of these much?
Update:
Took a test ride with the brand new TCI. No change. Went and got the TPS (throttle switch), replaced it. The back firing (tap tap sound from exhaust when decelerating) has gone.
Further update
The coil output peaks out at 6.3-4 A, at less than 4k rpm. Further increase in rpm do not increase the current. Voltage was varying from 17-34V mostly, but at times with hard revving, went up to 45V.
Are u referring to the battery readings or the AC output from the coils?

I hope u know the importance of maintaining proper voltage at battery terminalsDo it Yourself, what so ever, if Possible
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After Market HID Projector Mod for Pulsar 150
Flasher Enabled Head Light Flash for Just Rs.1/-
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The highlighted one in red, are taken at the wires feeding the RR (AC). RR output is well within the required limits.Originally posted by sajjt View Post
Are u referring to the battery readings or the AC output from the coils?

I hope u know the importance of maintaining proper voltage at battery terminals
Actually I was going through the whole RTR DC conversion thread and everthing seems to be well within limits. I'm totally confused... hmmm
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if its AC then everything is working fine.. AC input voltage depends on the no. of turns per pole.Originally posted by lijok View PostThe highlighted one in red, are taken at the wires feeding the RR (AC). RR output is well within the required limits.
Actually I was going through the whole RTR DC conversion thread and everthing seems to be well within limits. I'm totally confused... hmmmIts the fusion of a two wheeled machine & a human being which creates a true biker.
Fine me on facebook: https://www.facebook.com/krazzykid.abhijeet
Pulsar spare parts price list (indicative only):
http://www.scribd.com/doc/42303845/P...re-Parts-Price
http://www.scribd.com/doc/99085008/Bajaj-180-Pulsar-UG3
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well, it seems so. But i'm still confused why the hiccups persists. Carb/engine issues are already ruled out as they have been checked over and over.Originally posted by Abhijeet Bhattacharjee View Postif its AC then everything is working fine.. AC input voltage depends on the no. of turns per pole.
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thnxx bro i have send u a fb frend request plzz tag me in those picsOriginally posted by Abhijeet Bhattacharjee View Postanswers in bold
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fitting extra light
Is it possible to fit this type of light on my bikes,(platina 125,hh super splendor)
Honda Goldwing Driving Lights & Fog Lights
Is there any problem with battery if I fit it?
shubham.bairy facebook
My travel book
http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/search.php?searchid=843553
The Under Dogs (T.U.D)
https://www.facebook.com/groups/807767902568039/
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- 35W and 4300k for my HH Hunk H4 socket i think. I am unable to find original kit in bangalore.

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