Let there be Light : Bike Lighting, HID etc

[hunkofgals]

Philips X-TremeVision comes in pair yes it will give better light than stock bulb
price would be around 700inr

recently purchased xtreme vision for 600 bucks
and it doesn't come in pair
so purchased two separately for 1200

personally feeling
it didnt make much of a difference except for the low beam which got a slight ( very slight yellowish white tinge , very negligible )
and the high beam is similar to that of stock ( the bike is DUKE 200 )

[pixantz]

recently purchased xtreme vision for 600 bucks
and it doesn't come in pair
so purchased two separately for 1200

personally feeling
it didnt make much of a difference except for the low beam which got a slight ( very slight yellowish white tinge , very negligible )
and the high beam is similar to that of stock ( the bike is DUKE 200 )

You will not get the full power of the bulbs unless you connect them through a relay


Sent from my iPhone using xBhp Connect

[rprathin]

You will not get the full power of the bulbs unless you connect them through a relay


Sent from my iPhone using xBhp Connect

ktm duke 200 stock bulb is 55/60 watts so need of relays

[rajaselvam_1987]

Has anyone tried this??
Car Powerful Fog Lamp Projector 10Watt super power led waterproof Like HID XENON | eBay

Price seems too high. i've seen this on Ebay.com at the cost of 10-12 $ with free shipping, BUt i forgot the link.

[rprathin]

recently purchased xtreme vision for 600 bucks
and it doesn't come in pair
so purchased two separately for 1200

personally feeling
it didnt make much of a difference except for the low beam which got a slight ( very slight yellowish white tinge , very negligible )
and the high beam is similar to that of stock ( the bike is DUKE 200 )

the difference is 40% more light than the stock. Did you get that or not.
and sorry for the information for price
the information which i had given for the 700 inr pair is given by the dealer of philips varanasi may be he had given some wrong information. or i got that wrong
will confirm with him tomorrow.

[rx_rider]

This is not exactly a query, but some first-hand experience. I am typing it down here in the hope and anticipation that it will be definitely useful to someone.

I own a Yamaha Fazer 2012 model, 153 cc, full DC electricals that came with a 12V 5A battery in stock. This is my first bike and I dod not know much back when I bought it in March 2012. It has twin headlamps, however on the stock bike, only the low-beam works on the left-side headlamp lamp while only the high-beam works on the right headlamp. This is my first bike, and I was not comfortable with the poor illumination during night time. Therefore, I got a local mechanic to do the wiring such that the low-beam and high-beam would be functional on both side headlamps. However, I immediately noticed that my horn has become slightly weaker. Further, I was still not happy with the illumination provided by the both side headlamps. So I went ahead and installed a pair of auxiliary halogen lamps on the crash guards. But it drained the battery that the headlamps wound dim and die out and the bike would come to a stop. Few weeks later, I had an accident in which the auxiliary halogen lamps were blown out. Didn't bother replacing them and the electrical equation was not feasible.

But the want for better illumination was still lingering around in my mind. A little eyeballing on the forums and internet made me aware about HIDs. I made up my mind to install HIDs kit(without projector setup) but the inability of the battery to sustain the power-hungry HID kits hindered the plans. A local mechanic suggested that I may install a battery with a higher capacity. The stock battery brackets were modified to hold a 12V 9A battery. And HID kits(bi-xenons, that is, a single bulb with high beam and low beam) were installed into left and right side headlamps. However, I noticed a problem from the very first day of installation. That was, after both the lights had been switched on for some time, one of them(mostly the left side headlamp) would switch off on the fly. I presumed it was a loose connection. However, all the wiring was intact. So I thought that perhaps the "Chinese" blaster was faulty. So changed the blaster. But the problem persisted. I somehow resigned to fate and compelled myself to be content that atleast one HID kit was working properly. Within about 10 days, I accidentally discovered and realized that both the headlamps would invariably switch-on when they had been switched-on again after being switched off for some time. Around the same time, I realized that after one of the headlights went off, if I switch off the other light too and raise or roar the throttle a few times, both the lights would again switch on. Moral of the story was that one of the lights would switch off suddenly because there was lack of power.

I tried looking for a bigger battery but could not find one because there was no place to install a physically larger sized battery. One of the mechanics at Lamington Road recommended that me to see the veteran motorcycle electrician Munna near Dreamland theater at Grant Road/Lamington Road. He got my rectifier replaced but still the same issue persisted. Later he modified the wiring around the rectifier with a small lemon-sized black ball-like spare part that he called a "charger". I am not sure what that black part is called. Now, the lights worked smoothly for a period but one fine day, that black part failed and as a result, it shorted the battery. If you may know, the Yamaha Fazer does not start if there is no battery or if there is a majot fault in the electricals. This caused my bike to breakdown on several occasions on long rides, workplace commutes, etc. So basically, the bike became unreliable. I therefore removed the part and the bike started working again. However, I realized within a few hours that the battery wound not charge completely, as in the voltage would not go any higher than 10V. Also, the digital meter that has the speedo, odo, tacho, fuel, etc. blew out. After this ordeal, I rolled back to all stock spares, except the battery and the halogen bulb. I retained the 12V 9A battery and instead of rolling back to the stock Osram ES1 Silverlight 2.0 64185 35/35w, I replaced with a Lumax 35/35 ES1. The only difference in this bulb is that it has a thin blue coat on its glass and therefore the beam color is slightly whitish and not warm yellow. I am now comfortable with this bulb and continue to use this. Instead of the original stock arrangement of low-beam on one side and high-beam on other side, I have activated both the beams on the left side bulb itself and the right side bulb is not is use. Rolling back to the stock status has improved the reliability and I can ride worry free.

From this ordeal, I learnt that our local mechanics do not have enough experience with HID kits. They merely install them. If it develops a fault, your motorcycle becomes a experiment for them and they will do a trial and error by replacing the spares one by one and seeing if it works. Most mechanics do not have enough knowledge about electricals. Even so called local "experts" have only a limited knowledge.

[rx_rider]

Has anyone tried this??
Car Powerful Fog Lamp Projector 10Watt super power led waterproof Like HID XENON | eBay

I have purchased similar one from Lamington Road for Rs. 950/-

I have not installed it on my motorcycle yet, but little experimenting shows that the light is good. I have a 12V, 5A battery eliminator.

[segagt_0]

I have purchased similar one from Lamington Road for Rs. 950/-

I have not installed it on my motorcycle yet, but little experimenting shows that the light is good. I have a 12V, 5A battery eliminator.

950/- for a pair or single? Is it the same as listed in the link above?
Thanks.

[segagt_0]

ok here is the image of two 10 watt led projector
[ATTACH=CONFIG]95427[/ATTACH]

source : https://www.facebook.com/nichols.carvalho

Thanks for the image mate but I think this light will cause enough glare for oncoming traffic. But for offroad use or in places where there is no traffic, this light can be a bless.

[rprathin]

Thanks for the image mate but I think this light will cause enough glare for oncoming traffic. But for offroad use or in places where there is no traffic, this light can be a bless.

the glare would be there you can align it in the way so that glare reduces to the oncoming traffic

[Sird]

This is not exactly a query, but some first-hand experience. I am typing it down here in the hope and anticipation that it will be definitely useful to someone.

I own a Yamaha Fazer 2012 model, 153 cc, full DC electricals that came with a 12V 5A battery in stock. This is my first bike and I dod not know much back when I bought it in March 2012. It has twin headlamps, however on the stock bike, only the low-beam works on the left-side headlamp lamp while only the high-beam works on the right headlamp. This is my first bike, and I was not comfortable with the poor illumination during night time. Therefore, I got a local mechanic to do the wiring such that the low-beam and high-beam would be functional on both side headlamps. However, I immediately noticed that my horn has become slightly weaker. Further, I was still not happy with the illumination provided by the both side headlamps. So I went ahead and installed a pair of auxiliary halogen lamps on the crash guards. But it drained the battery that the headlamps wound dim and die out and the bike would come to a stop. Few weeks later, I had an accident in which the auxiliary halogen lamps were blown out. Didn't bother replacing them and the electrical equation was not feasible.

But the want for better illumination was still lingering around in my mind. A little eyeballing on the forums and internet made me aware about HIDs. I made up my mind to install HIDs kit(without projector setup) but the inability of the battery to sustain the power-hungry HID kits hindered the plans. A local mechanic suggested that I may install a battery with a higher capacity. The stock battery brackets were modified to hold a 12V 9A battery. And HID kits(bi-xenons, that is, a single bulb with high beam and low beam) were installed into left and right side headlamps. However, I noticed a problem from the very first day of installation. That was, after both the lights had been switched on for some time, one of them(mostly the left side headlamp) would switch off on the fly. I presumed it was a loose connection. However, all the wiring was intact. So I thought that perhaps the "Chinese" blaster was faulty. So changed the blaster. But the problem persisted. I somehow resigned to fate and compelled myself to be content that atleast one HID kit was working properly. Within about 10 days, I accidentally discovered and realized that both the headlamps would invariably switch-on when they had been switched-on again after being switched off for some time. Around the same time, I realized that after one of the headlights went off, if I switch off the other light too and raise or roar the throttle a few times, both the lights would again switch on. Moral of the story was that one of the lights would switch off suddenly because there was lack of power.

I tried looking for a bigger battery but could not find one because there was no place to install a physically larger sized battery. One of the mechanics at Lamington Road recommended that me to see the veteran motorcycle electrician Munna near Dreamland theater at Grant Road/Lamington Road. He got my rectifier replaced but still the same issue persisted. Later he modified the wiring around the rectifier with a small lemon-sized black ball-like spare part that he called a "charger". I am not sure what that black part is called. Now, the lights worked smoothly for a period but one fine day, that black part failed and as a result, it shorted the battery. If you may know, the Yamaha Fazer does not start if there is no battery or if there is a majot fault in the electricals. This caused my bike to breakdown on several occasions on long rides, workplace commutes, etc. So basically, the bike became unreliable. I therefore removed the part and the bike started working again. However, I realized within a few hours that the battery wound not charge completely, as in the voltage would not go any higher than 10V. Also, the digital meter that has the speedo, odo, tacho, fuel, etc. blew out. After this ordeal, I rolled back to all stock spares, except the battery and the halogen bulb. I retained the 12V 9A battery and instead of rolling back to the stock Osram ES1 Silverlight 2.0 64185 35/35w, I replaced with a Lumax 35/35 ES1. The only difference in this bulb is that it has a thin blue coat on its glass and therefore the beam color is slightly whitish and not warm yellow. I am now comfortable with this bulb and continue to use this. Instead of the original stock arrangement of low-beam on one side and high-beam on other side, I have activated both the beams on the left side bulb itself and the right side bulb is not is use. Rolling back to the stock status has improved the reliability and I can ride worry free.

From this ordeal, I learnt that our local mechanics do not have enough experience with HID kits. They merely install them. If it develops a fault, your motorcycle becomes a experiment for them and they will do a trial and error by replacing the spares one by one and seeing if it works. Most mechanics do not have enough knowledge about electricals. Even so called local "experts" have only a limited knowledge.

Nicely written.
When I Was in 12th class (3-4 years back) I had the same irritating situation in my Pulsar 180.
The fixing of HID, Short handle, And Fog light under crash guard to throw light on alloys.
All this took a lot of time + money but only gave headache.
Each evening I use to visit the local mechanic.
Daily 50-100rs & I'm happy but with new day comes a new problem.
Later on after handling this for a month I switched back to everything Stock even the short handle was fine but I switched back in frustration and then was no problem or reliability issue with the Bike.

This is the only reason I'm just talking about getting the alloy pain done from 2-3 months now.
Because now ! I don't even trust a local mechanic opening my Wheel & fitting it back.

In 18-19 months old Pulsar220 ownership just got Air filled & petrol from outside & nothing else.

Once I had to go to a Local mechanic when My Accelator wire failed @ 8pm on highway.
He used a Pulsar 18 wire (long size & not fitting in place of 220) I used it for night & went to Bajaj SVC next morning for changing it again.
And just in few hours of usage there was a deep scratch on the Fairing Near the Right side Handle made my the Metallic part of Wire. :@

[rprathin]

This is not exactly a query, but some first-hand experience. I am typing it down here in the hope and anticipation that it will be definitely useful to someone.

I own a Yamaha Fazer 2012 model, 153 cc, full DC electricals that came with a 12V 5A battery in stock. This is my first bike and I dod not know much back when I bought it in March 2012. It has twin headlamps, however on the stock bike, only the low-beam works on the left-side headlamp lamp while only the high-beam works on the right headlamp. This is my first bike, and I was not comfortable with the poor illumination during night time. Therefore, I got a local mechanic to do the wiring such that the low-beam and high-beam would be functional on both side headlamps. However, I immediately noticed that my horn has become slightly weaker. Further, I was still not happy with the illumination provided by the both side headlamps. So I went ahead and installed a pair of auxiliary halogen lamps on the crash guards. But it drained the battery that the headlamps wound dim and die out and the bike would come to a stop. Few weeks later, I had an accident in which the auxiliary halogen lamps were blown out. Didn't bother replacing them and the electrical equation was not feasible.

But the want for better illumination was still lingering around in my mind. A little eyeballing on the forums and internet made me aware about HIDs. I made up my mind to install HIDs kit(without projector setup) but the inability of the battery to sustain the power-hungry HID kits hindered the plans. A local mechanic suggested that I may install a battery with a higher capacity. The stock battery brackets were modified to hold a 12V 9A battery. And HID kits(bi-xenons, that is, a single bulb with high beam and low beam) were installed into left and right side headlamps. However, I noticed a problem from the very first day of installation. That was, after both the lights had been switched on for some time, one of them(mostly the left side headlamp) would switch off on the fly. I presumed it was a loose connection. However, all the wiring was intact. So I thought that perhaps the "Chinese" blaster was faulty. So changed the blaster. But the problem persisted. I somehow resigned to fate and compelled myself to be content that atleast one HID kit was working properly. Within about 10 days, I accidentally discovered and realized that both the headlamps would invariably switch-on when they had been switched-on again after being switched off for some time. Around the same time, I realized that after one of the headlights went off, if I switch off the other light too and raise or roar the throttle a few times, both the lights would again switch on. Moral of the story was that one of the lights would switch off suddenly because there was lack of power.

I tried looking for a bigger battery but could not find one because there was no place to install a physically larger sized battery. One of the mechanics at Lamington Road recommended that me to see the veteran motorcycle electrician Munna near Dreamland theater at Grant Road/Lamington Road. He got my rectifier replaced but still the same issue persisted. Later he modified the wiring around the rectifier with a small lemon-sized black ball-like spare part that he called a "charger". I am not sure what that black part is called. Now, the lights worked smoothly for a period but one fine day, that black part failed and as a result, it shorted the battery. If you may know, the Yamaha Fazer does not start if there is no battery or if there is a majot fault in the electricals. This caused my bike to breakdown on several occasions on long rides, workplace commutes, etc. So basically, the bike became unreliable. I therefore removed the part and the bike started working again. However, I realized within a few hours that the battery wound not charge completely, as in the voltage would not go any higher than 10V. Also, the digital meter that has the speedo, odo, tacho, fuel, etc. blew out. After this ordeal, I rolled back to all stock spares, except the battery and the halogen bulb. I retained the 12V 9A battery and instead of rolling back to the stock Osram ES1 Silverlight 2.0 64185 35/35w, I replaced with a Lumax 35/35 ES1. The only difference in this bulb is that it has a thin blue coat on its glass and therefore the beam color is slightly whitish and not warm yellow. I am now comfortable with this bulb and continue to use this. Instead of the original stock arrangement of low-beam on one side and high-beam on other side, I have activated both the beams on the left side bulb itself and the right side bulb is not is use. Rolling back to the stock status has improved the reliability and I can ride worry free.

From this ordeal, I learnt that our local mechanics do not have enough experience with HID kits. They merely install them. If it develops a fault, your motorcycle becomes a experiment for them and they will do a trial and error by replacing the spares one by one and seeing if it works. Most mechanics do not have enough knowledge about electricals. Even so called local "experts" have only a limited knowledge.

if you still want the better illumination than you should go for projectors on one side and stock halogen bulb on the other however if you want to use both the hid than you need to do some coil rewinding and rr upgrade.
never rely on mechanic for any electrical modification. Even i also relied on the mechanic 3 years back for electrical modification what i got was scooty with blown cdi that was due to there so called charger(using diodes) which was charging in parallel so due to that the voltage increased over 18 volts when headlight was switched off, it resulted in blowing my cdi unit in middle of nowhere.

[on2wheels]

Thanks Mate for reply.

for dc setup with 55/60 watts bulb you need ape rr costs 1350 inr(when i purchased) and coil rewinding with 18 or 19 swg wire no idea for price in your city in varanasi its 250 inr
some rerouting of wires and relay will be required.
and stick to Amaron 9Ah these are good
for bulb go for Philips x-treme vision. comes in pair costs around 700 inr.

bought Philips X-treme Vision for 500 INR, printed price was 600, but as per shop owner, it was a single peice with him since last year.
how many turns on coil needed?

[rprathin]

Thanks Mate for reply.



bought Philips X-treme Vision for 500 INR, printed price was 600, but as per shop owner, it was a single peice with him since last year.
how many turns on coil needed?

count the no. of turns of your the stock coil when unwinding and wind with 18 swg wire as close as stock turns possible or more if possible
and sorry for the wrong information regarding pair bulbs. it does not comes in pairs

[abhijit_joy]

This is not exactly a query, but some first-hand experience. I am typing it down here in the hope and anticipation that it will be definitely useful to someone.

I own a Yamaha Fazer 2012 model, 153 cc, full DC electricals that came with a 12V 5A battery in stock. This is my first bike and I dod not know much back when I bought it in March 2012. It has twin headlamps, however on the stock bike, only the low-beam works on the left-side headlamp lamp while only the high-beam works on the right headlamp. This is my first bike, and I was not comfortable with the poor illumination during night time. Therefore, I got a local mechanic to do the wiring such that the low-beam and high-beam would be functional on both side headlamps. However, I immediately noticed that my horn has become slightly weaker. Further, I was still not happy with the illumination provided by the both side headlamps. So I went ahead and installed a pair of auxiliary halogen lamps on the crash guards. But it drained the battery that the headlamps wound dim and die out and the bike would come to a stop. Few weeks later, I had an accident in which the auxiliary halogen lamps were blown out. Didn't bother replacing them and the electrical equation was not feasible.

Dear.. Dont trust those local mechanics.. They have no idea about what they are doing neither have that much of capability to put any sensible logic.
1st you have to understand the basis funda about what you are doing. If you understand the logic then it will be simple a simple job. See... the OEM stator produces less current because the wire wounded in the coil is thin & the OEM rectifier also delivers very less amps of current. What you have to do is to rewind the stator with higher guage wire & to put APE RR. But rewinding is a tough job & if it can be done through machine then you will get good amount of current. Remaining part is rectifier that you can purchase it locally from APE authorized spares outlet. Trust me there is no rocket science behind this job. Install the rewinded stator, connect the cables coming out from stator to APE RR & RR out to battery. Rest of the wiring will remain same. What you are doing is putting a heavy generator, rectifying the voltage/current & delivering it to battery.... Thats it.
For rewinding, get in touch with RD Motovill http://www.facebook.com/RDmotovil?ref=ts&fref=ts . The stator of Fazer is capable of producing lots of current. In fact you can run two 55watt HIDs also. I am using the modifying stator with APE RR for more than a year in my P180 UG3 having 55w HID bought from Navnish http://www.facebook.com/navnishn?ref=ts&fref=ts