@4K or 5K IMO, is quite low for knocking. If the tuning is right then check the carburetor there might be some dust particle that might have clogged the main jet as after 6K main jet has lead role to play.

Your suspension setting is not stock by any way. In a stock bike the suspension (rear) setting is set to the left most position while it is 2 position greater than the stock (in your bike). I guess that is the cause of your Horse like ride.

P.S: Revert back to stock suspension setting.

1) That's normal. Gearshifts will be harder till run-in. After about 4-5K kms only you will notice that the gearbox has become smooth. Even, I found it near to impossible to find neutral when the bike was ON & new, during my run-in period. No problems.

2) For increasing chain life do following:

a) Never put the oil in the middle part of the chain. You should lubricate the LINK joints. (simply the outer lining where each link connects to another)

b) Clean it with Kerosene or chain cleaner with the help of a soft toothbrush at every 500kms or when it gets too dirty.(depending on the environment)

c) Never give sudden acceleration or deacceleration, the jerks received due to them causes excessive wear and tear of the chain and sprocket.

d) Tighten the chain every 1000kms and lubricate it at every 200-250kms. (and after each wash of the bike irrespective of the kms travelled from last lubrication)

Thanks.

Dust has been ruled out,coz before the service bike was performing very well,he is at my place and therz only one bajaj sc.

Something might have clogged or the mechanic might have opened the carburetor. Also check the spark plugs and their cables.

I think he didn't opened the carb,its a new bike...and all the cables are also fine.I think there's something wrong with the tunings either too rich or too lean..

Guys, I finally found a informative page of a magazine (2006 year, yes that's 4 years old almost) on 'Carburetor Tuning', it states to do the following for optimum carburetor tuning:

1) Start the engine.

2) Increase the idling by tightening the idling screw a couple of times (3K or 4K).

3) Tighten the AFR screw fully. The idling should drop at this point.

4) Slowly unscrew the AFR screw untill you get the highest possible rpm from the engine. Now, from this point, unscrew till the rpm increases and drops again. Then, tighten it until the rpm again rises to its highest point. Done! leave the AFR screw on this point and proceed to below.

5) Loosen the idling screw untill you get correct 1-1.5K idling rpm.

6) Do it in a area there your neighbours will not kill you on hearing the roar of your bike continuously for 4-5mins.

I have stated the same as written.

1) Also check if the air filter is clean or not. (In case if the mechanics replaced it with a dirty one.)

2) Check if the choke is in OFF position or not.

Thanks.

all the points are all right except 4.
suppose you've set the idling at 4k,the highest rpm you'll achieve would be 4.2 or 4.3 not more than that,iam not sure if the rpm would drop by unscrewing more,in my case that didn't happen and the screw was coming out of the socket,may be i shoul've waited till the whole screw comes out '
"Then, tighten it until the rpm again rises to its highest point."
^whats the point in repeating this step again.?

1.AIRFILTER alrready checked
2.you're kidding right

Thank you very much for the reply ! And is this where u mention that the suspension should be ?

yes. that's the stock setting.

Yes, then you should try a little lower rpm. In my case, when I tried this quite sometime back I setted the idling to 4K. It is not necessary to do so. Although, the highest I achieved was 6K but still I screwed whole setting. So, be sure before you do this all hectic works otherwise there might be a Diwali surprise waiting for your beloved baby.

2) Nope! I was just trying tobe safer on all sides i.e. if nothing, then this might be the cause of problem.

BTW, why did'nt have you retuned the carburetor till now?

OT: Change the avataar, it is becoming too older and static. Which is not your style AFAIK.

Yes, that is the point where the suspension setting is on a stock bike.

+'180 Green Mean' to XIONITE.

LOL your suspension is set to STIFF mode




Check the pic you'll understand. If you the appropriate tool you can shift to hook by yourself or hit the service center next door and ask them to shift for you. But remember that the effect will be smaller than you expect.

Here are couple of pages from pulsar's maintenance guide




Finally You gotta do atleast three things now.
1. change suspension settings as shown in first pic.
2. check air pressure from suspension is 6.5 kg/cm2.
3. keep both tyres with 26 psi of air.

A little tip from me don't ask SC guys for their retarded suggestion. These guys are not that sophisticated to check air from suspension. You might need to hit pro-biking.

@karthik:

Even if you are not satisfied with the stock setting then try switching to one more lesser i.e. the 1st position, as in a stock bike the rear suspension is set to 2nd position.

Wow!! Great lockhrt... even though I knew it but, this picture provided me alot of some exceptional points. His bike is some kms only old. So, the gas thing goes to graveyard.

does anyone know where i can get the pump to keep the pressure in the nitrox canisters regulated???

had asked this question way back in 2005...
no one had a clue where to buy it back then.

no no no 2nd position was default in UG3. Our UG4 comes with 1st position default.

Not every pulsar is same. In India sometimes people forget simply.