Guys i completed 500 kms in my new Pulsar 180. I will have to go for my 1st servicing. I would like to ask few questions about that?

Which engine oil to be used?

What special attention do i need to pay at the 1st servicing?

My side stand indicator is not working. Will they replace it?

I have pulsar 150 classic model of 2003,and i have covered around 80k km on it and completed engine rebuilt which contain piston block change and crank pin con rod.
my pulsar 150 is not enough powerful to cop up coustant 90-100kmph cruising speed,and i personally don't like to stress the engine,low torque is another problems for old pulsar classics.
now im talking about converting my 150cc to 180cc,so what i have to do for it,any one here who done 150 to 180 conversion??please hemp me,im going to do that as soon as possible.

IMO the Classics have the best ridebility. Ride a DTS-i and you will know it for sure. Yes, you can use the 180cc kit, but don't expect too much from it as you are just plonking a cylinder of bigger cc does'nt means that you will have greater top-end or a huge increase in ridebility, overall performance might still be not at the acceptable levels. It will for sure increase the low-end torque that you are concerned. Then you will have to go for a 180cc Classic CDI too for full utilisation of your upgraded piston-kit.

If you just want good low-range torque then try and increase the rear sprocket size by 2 and see the difference although this will decrease the top speed.

Update on my bike. Got another service done. tic-tic sound from the engine which the SVC people say is because the timing chain needs to be replaced. Not a critical problem, just noisy. Bike runs AWESOME.
Shifted to Motul 7100 20W50 FS today. Full report later on but immediately after shifting, gears felt slightly harder than the 15W50SS oil that I was on earlier. Lets see how long this lasts. I am thinking that the gears might be hard because of the oil having a base weight on 20. On 15 weight, the gears are super smooth.

from where you got this 20W50 graded Motul 7100 FS oil?
how much paid for it?..
i think it will be better to use recommended grade oil..
need your commends about it please.
already my bike runs in bajaj oil.but i felt it as smooth..no problems.

stick to the mineral oil now as it is only covered some 500kms.
check the oil level.
wheels for brake jamm. if the disc is jamm and the wheel is stressed to run freely, then inform it, and clear it. there will be small tight in the front wheel as the disc pad is new.it will be ok after some kms.

your side stand indicator is not working?..i am already not inspected it since i bought it, which was 9500kms before.

Great man! from where did you sourced it? I thought that it is not available in India? How's the performance compared to 300V? And please do mention the price.

Thanks abhi for valuabele suggesion ,but now im eloborating my need and thngs which i have done on my p150 classic.
About my bike from past-my bike had completed around 80k km and its realiblity is excellent but its lack low end torque and some what missing some Hourses due to my wider M45 at rear(110/80r18),also tried bigger sprocket at rear it has 42 teeth at rear and i tried 44 theeth rear but it miss out its touring capabilty,so come to original 42 teeth sprocket,1 month ago i had also worked on engine repair which included Crankpin and rod,piston block kit(stock 150cc),new cam shaft assembly,timing chain,clutchplates,pressure plates,crank bearings,valves,rocker arm.
What im missing from my p150-First of all,i was using my pulsar for daily commuting but after 2 year,bitten by touring bug so i had using my pulsar for touring,also covered 600km per day on her,and perform flawless,but its missing some points which as follows-
1-low end torque are less.
2-due to wider M45 rubber at rear it feel under power at ghats.
3-while climbing in hilly area,it bit feel slugish may be due to low eng torque or some thing like that.
4 -want more night power for her-which have fullfil by xbhp by rewinding tread by abhijeet thanking him for that work.

Altration done on my bike-
1-AC to DC--Rewinding coil-which include rr unit of ape,cutout of cars,and amby headlight 55/60w bulb.its excellent in night!!!even my friends zmr also fitted 55/60w cant match my headlight compatibilty.
2-Rear tail light LED set up.
3-suspension mods-longer swing arm of dtsi,shocks from cbz.its reduces hight and handling are superb,comfort level are increases drasticaly thanking for deepak dongre here for helping to thats mods.
4-tire-runnig at M45 at rear,perfect tire for touring.

now all those summed up and thngs which want to do now-
1-to increase torque and response of engine want to do 150 to 180 conversion but acording to my knowledge there are some spares are diffrents which include piston block,crank shaft,CDI,timing chain,cam.im not sure about it so please is that identcall or diffrent???


now suggest me what to do now??
a-go for new zma.which are not fullfil my compatiblity in some points like cost of spares in zma,cheap plastik quality and now cheap locally made spares on bike AFAIK.
b-go for 180 piston block kit and CDI only and not to change crankshaft assy.and what another thing also have to change in this altration??like timing chain,carb,camshaft,and what reliability expect by doing this?
c-Go for complete mod like 150 to 180-all identical parts change including crank shaft.
Eagerly waiting for reply.

@ramborider:
AFAIK, the crank will also need change and why skip that when you are goin in for a completely new set-up. You will also require 180 CDI.

a) Scrap plan.
b) Costly affair, instead go for a trusted used bike.
c)Ride a 180 and you will know that it also lacks low-end torque aftersometime you will hate that too.

If I were in place of you, I would have sold my bike and picked up a trusted ones used bike (might be Pulsar 180 or 200).

im not willing to sold my bike,can go for another new bike,but second hand bike become hecktik for maintnance,thats why im going for 150 to 180 conversion,why do you suggesting not to go for that conversion is that creat issue??some costing which i had done for that-
piston block-1900/-
crank assy-2900/-
bearings-400/-
carb can get from second hand spare market-around 1000/-
some other spares like timing chain and miselince-500/-
CDI-650/-

and another option
old engine of 180 from oldspare marker.which would be around 3000-4000

The second options seems better, scraped engine. 150>180 just make sure that the job is done by a professional or your trusted mechanic who knows how to deal with modd'ing an engine. Just that! A bad mod and umpteen problems. Or try getting a free flow exhaust instead a good one will solve the torque problem.

ok abhi,will try to source 180 classic engine,as classic engines are reliable .

simply change the front sprocket to a 14 teeth from Discover, it's a direct fit. It will compromise the top speed a bit, but will increase the low and mid to a good extent.

guys, check this out, it's a photoshoped image, what do you think about the painjob? good? bad? poor?

Thanks raneet,dont want to compromise between top end because my most prominent cruising speed is 80-85kmph.im also thinking to get head porting which also give me some torque and power without compromising realiblity.
bike colour looks great, also try to change fork color to golden it also can suit.

but do you really think porting and all will be more reliable? i never suggest anyone to pop open the engine unless extremely required. you are also loosing torque because of the lowered height of the tail added with softer suspension.